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  1. #9126
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    northern BC
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    30,720
    Quote Originally Posted by I Skied Bandini Mountain View Post
    Exteriors have lots of nooks and crannies and splits and checks for moisture to dive into and do their thing, especially log ends. Pine in itself isn't the most decay resistant wood so it's not as rot resistant as Cedar. The shingling principle when constructing a building envelope doesn't exist in log construction, so all those lines of caulking (aka chinking) need to be constantly monitored for any separation that will let moisture in. South exposures will get blasted with sun and weather like all homes do (depending on location and sun exposure), but logs have an increased exposure due to their round shapes. And when log structures are neglected, it seems like the damage accumulates on an increasing curve, not a straight line.

    Don't get me wrong, they look great, but they do need an increased level of maintenance. For some people though, that's their jam. I was working on on place not too long ago and the owner loved taking care of it and it looked fantastic.
    my neighbor got some stuff called perma-chink which he applied right over the moss chinking

    it always sounds mildly racist
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  2. #9127
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    Feb 2008
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    2,547
    Quote Originally Posted by Core Shot View Post
    Then again itís a quick swap to change the receptacle
    Basically the same as swapping a standard outlet, with a little extra attention to making sure that it's not hot when you're working on it?

  3. #9128
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
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    Į\_(ツ)_/Į
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    11,625

    Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice

    Quote Originally Posted by dan_pdx View Post
    Basically the same as swapping a standard outlet, with a little extra attention to making sure that it's not hot when you're working on it?
    Itís definitely youtube-able. I swapped one a couple years ago for the same reason. Thereís two hot wires and everything else is similar iirc

    ETA I think the fourth prong is a ground? so you have to be able to ground it (sparky mags can correct me if thatís wrong)

  4. #9129
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
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    12,461
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    my neighbor got some stuff called perma-chink which he applied right over the moss chinking

    it always sounds mildly racist
    Sounds better than ďLog JamĒ though.

  5. #9130
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
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    heheheh... he said log jam...

    Seriously though, log jam is good stuff.

  6. #9131
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
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    Dystopia
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    20,869
    Quote Originally Posted by dan_pdx View Post
    Basically the same as swapping a standard outlet, with a little extra attention to making sure that it's not hot when you're working on it?
    Yep. In some ways it’s easier.
    Two hots. One cup.
    Err I mean ground.

    Can anyone explain why the L shaped ground is better??

    If your current code is four prong you might be fucked. Have to pull another wire. Then again it’s also pre existing non conforming. But once you work on it you theoretically need to meet current code.


    If it’s six hours away might be easier to pay a local sparky one hour labor to take care of it.
    . . .

  7. #9132
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    2,547
    Quote Originally Posted by Core Shot View Post
    Yep. In some ways itís easier.
    Two hots. One cup.
    Err I mean ground.

    Can anyone explain why the L shaped ground is better??

    If your current code is four prong you might be fucked. Have to pull another wire. Then again itís also pre existing non conforming. But once you work on it you theoretically need to meet current code.


    If itís six hours away might be easier to pay a local sparky one hour labor to take care of it.
    Thanks, this is helpful. It is pre-existing non-conforming, but I've been reading a little bit, and I think there's a reasonable chance there's no ground wire. The existing outlet is probably at least 50 years old. So maybe local sparky is the way to go, might need a GFCI breaker I guess.

  8. #9133
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
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    Greg_o
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    2,600
    Quote Originally Posted by climberevan View Post
    Just drill 1/4" holes every 1/4" along your cut line. Go all the way through the brick. Carefully chip it out. The brick isn't structural so even it you crack the mortar it's NBD. Just patch it--you'll need mortar or matching caulk around the pipe anyway unless it has a big escutcheon.

    If you get a core driller to show up at your house for less than $500, let us know. I'll be very surprised.
    Welp, quotes were 700, 400, and got one guy down to 300 CAD.

    Gonne try drill and chisel..

  9. #9134
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    Jan 2019
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thaleia View Post
    Welp, quotes were 700, 400, and got one guy down to 300 CAD.

    Gonne try drill and chisel..
    Things were getting a little squirrelly up above so I stayed out, but you can get diamond hole saws that will go through brick like butter. You only need to drill one pilot hole and then use the hole saw with arbor. Since it's brick it should go pretty quickly.

    https://www.mutualscrew.com/product/...EaAmk2EALw_wcB

  10. #9135
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    Nov 2017
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    Down on Electric Avenue
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    4,345
    Quote Originally Posted by Name Redacted View Post

    Sounds better than ďLog JamĒ though.
    Quote Originally Posted by I Skied Bandini Mountain View Post

    heheheh... he said log jam...

    Seriously though, log jam is good stuff.
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  11. #9136
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    Dec 2006
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    Your Mom's House
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    8,261
    He, uh, fixes the cable?

  12. #9137
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    Feb 2011
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    2,409
    Donít be fatuous Jeffrey.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  13. #9138
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    Jan 2018
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    gamehendge
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    874
    Quote Originally Posted by Supermoon View Post

    ETA I think the fourth prong is a ground? so you have to be able to ground it (sparky mags can correct me if that’s wrong)
    nema 14-50 is two lines, neutral and a ground.

    Lots of things don't actually use the neutral and use the 2x 120v legs to get to 240v

  14. #9139
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
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    Greg_o
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    Quote Originally Posted by I Skied Bandini Mountain View Post
    Things were getting a little squirrelly up above so I stayed out, but you can get diamond hole saws that will go through brick like butter. You only need to drill one pilot hole and then use the hole saw with arbor. Since it's brick it should go pretty quickly.

    https://www.mutualscrew.com/product/...EaAmk2EALw_wcB
    Yeah those are nice, thanks. Local HD rents something similar and they actually looked to be in pretty decent shape.

    Drilled some holes today to get an idea of how long it was going to take. Would have rented the hole saw but it wasn't bad. Went ahead and got the deed is done fairly quickly.

  15. #9140
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    PNW
    Posts
    757
    Found our storm drain was plugged again and found some roots in the drain line. Anyone successfully rent and run a power snake to get rid of the roots or am I asking for trouble? Roto Rooter charged me $1k to come run a Jetter 2-3 years ago and told me there were some roots and I'd like to avoid paying that much again but worried I might screw it up worse.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  16. #9141
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bronco View Post
    Found our storm drain was plugged again and found some roots in the drain line. Anyone successfully rent and run a power snake to get rid of the roots or am I asking for trouble? Roto Rooter charged me $1k to come run a Jetter 2-3 years ago and told me there were some roots and I'd like to avoid paying that much again but worried I might screw it up worse.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Do you know how far the root intrusion is from the clean out ? Did they scope it when they did the clean out last time ? You should clean it out and also regularly use root killer. Ultimately you have an intrusion that will always come back until you fix the break in your line. You need to be patient when running a power drain but it ain't rocket science.
    If you plan on doing this regularly just buy a used power drain for about $2-300 and put yourself on a schedule. I bought one from Harbor freight about 15 years ago and bunch of friends have used it for various things so it's been worth the money. Not having to waste time to rent/return is worth a few bucks.

  17. #9142
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    Jan 2008
    Location
    truckee
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    22,941
    The geniuses who build our neighborhood planted plane trees directly over the sewer lines. I think we were the last people on the block to replace their sewer.

  18. #9143
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    May 2012
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    PNW
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    Quote Originally Posted by fatnslow View Post
    Do you know how far the root intrusion is from the clean out ? Did they scope it when they did the clean out last time ? You should clean it out and also regularly use root killer. Ultimately you have an intrusion that will always come back until you fix the break in your line. You need to be patient when running a power drain but it ain't rocket science.
    If you plan on doing this regularly just buy a used power drain for about $2-300 and put yourself on a schedule. I bought one from Harbor freight about 15 years ago and bunch of friends have used it for various things so it's been worth the money. Not having to waste time to rent/return is worth a few bucks.
    I'm not sure if the roots got in from the downspout connection or if they're coming up the line from a Japanese Maple that's 20' away. They didn't scope the line so I'm not sure how bad it is other than I was able to get some 6mm cord hitched around the roots to pull on and they didn't budge. I'll look around on craigslist to see if I can find one cheap, that's a good tip.

  19. #9144
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    3,243
    Quote Originally Posted by Bronco View Post
    I'm not sure if the roots got in from the downspout connection or if they're coming up the line from a Japanese Maple that's 20' away. They didn't scope the line so I'm not sure how bad it is other than I was able to get some 6mm cord hitched around the roots to pull on and they didn't budge. I'll look around on craigslist to see if I can find one cheap, that's a good tip.
    IF you have a gas powered pressure washer you can get a head and some additional hose to make a ghetto hydrojet, look on YouTube for instructions. Try to find one with a auto feeder if possible, its much easier to use than a manual feed. THICK work gloves are a must if you value your fingers.

  20. #9145
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    In your Dreams
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    1,962
    Those are some heavy roots!! I cleared sewer lines of roots from inside the house when I worked for the town sewer dept. It took two guys with a Godzilla sized manual drain auger to clear stuff like that. And sometimes we couldn't. Offending tree could be 20' away. Might want to find a biz or rent a power auger that uses a saw blade at the end of the auger.
    Seeker of Truth. Dispenser of Wisdom. Protector of the Weak. Avenger of Evil.

  21. #9146
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    Mar 2009
    Posts
    3,243
    Quote Originally Posted by Cisco Kid View Post
    Those are some heavy roots!! I cleared sewer lines of roots from inside the house when I worked for the town sewer dept. It took two guys with a Godzilla sized manual drain auger to clear stuff like that. And sometimes we couldn't. Offending tree could be 20' away. Might want to find a biz or rent a power auger that uses a saw blade at the end of the auger.
    IF you use a cutting head with serrated bit be prepared to have it be a bitch to get around any bends in your line. Is that opening in the
    photo a clean out or where your downspout connects to the line ? It probably goes down a bit and makes a hard turn so the line can run horizontally. A large head on any type of drain cleaner might have a hard time making the bend. Start with a small spade bit and hand feed it slowly as far as you can go before doing any hard cutting/spinning. You want to cut the root at the deepest point so you can get as much of it out in one piece then hope and pray the rest will get cut up enough to flow out. IF you're lucky where all the finer root growth is will be close and the spade bit will break it up letting you pull it out in one hairy mess. Do you have any idea how long of run that line is before it makes it to the sewer line ?

  22. #9147
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Movin' On
    Posts
    3,689
    In June of 2021 I had the entire HVAC system in my house replaced.

    I have an Amana air handler with an electric heat kit and a Goodman AC unit.

    The heat kit for the air handler has had to be replaced 3x in 2.5 years. This morning I woke up to my house being really cold. My thermostat didn't have power. I went down into the crawl space, opened up the air handler and sure enough the wire supplying the heat kit had burned up yet again.

    Any idea what is going on to cause this? Is Goodman/ Amana just really shitty quality? Is the heat kit undersized? Is this somehow an install problem?

    I'm just about to the point where I'm ready to replace the entire system again. The risk of having the heat go out while I'm out of town is way too high.

  23. #9148
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    3,243
    Quote Originally Posted by Kevo View Post
    In June of 2021 I had the entire HVAC system in my house replaced.

    I have an Amana air handler with an electric heat kit and a Goodman AC unit.

    The heat kit for the air handler has had to be replaced 3x in 2.5 years. This morning I woke up to my house being really cold. My thermostat didn't have power. I went down into the crawl space, opened up the air handler and sure enough the wire supplying the heat kit had burned up yet again.

    Any idea what is going on to cause this? Is Goodman/ Amana just really shitty quality? Is the heat kit undersized? Is this somehow an install problem?

    I'm just about to the point where I'm ready to replace the entire system again. The risk of having the heat go out while I'm out of town is way too high.
    Did you have the same issue previously with the wires toasting ? It could be when they designed the heat unit they underspeced the wiring and it has a extremely short life when dealing with heat or their vendor just makes shitty insulation or didn't use well spec'd wire. You see this often in many electrical heating systems. Heat, high amperage and enclosed space don't mix all that well. You might consider sourcing higher gauge, higher heat rated wire and making a harness if this is a repeat offender. Maybe run it by the HVAC company that installed your unit or even the MFG.

  24. #9149
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Dystopia
    Posts
    20,869
    Goodman does suck. Had multiple issues with a new air handler.

    What fried? The internal wires to the electric heating element? Sounds like. That sucks.
    Lower gauge wire can be spliced in. But it should be designed for the load. Very odd.

    Wifi thermostats are great when you are away from home. But yeah, if they lose power you have no idea if the heat is working.

    Pro tip
    Shut off the water main when leaving for an extended period.
    . . .

  25. #9150
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    Jan 2019
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    Goodman units suck hairy balls. Amana (Daikin) are supposed to be better. After three failures I would ask the HVAC contractor to get the manufacturer rep into the repair/replacement conversation and process.

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