Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice

[muted reborn]

Depending on your level of paranoia, you might want to remove the map. I was able to find your subdivision pretty easily.

Have you gone out and tried to find your corner markers? The GIS parcel map is pretty sucky for determining accurate locations, but you could use it as a reference to narrow down the location of your corner markers. Do you have a copy of an earlier survey? If so, I could try to COGO it, which would be a little better than the parcel map, but probably not much. If the markers are gone, which isn't unlikely, you'd need a survey to determine those corner locations with any certainty.

Full disclosure, I'm a GIS guy, not a surveyor, which probably shows. My original offer was just to help you map the monuments.

I’m confused, do surveyors use the monuments in my neighborhood to pinpoint my property lines or not? If so I’m presuming the farther away they are, the more expensive my survey? Based on my neighborhood map they are blocks away, is that bad I presume? Why arent any property markers showing up in my neighborhood on a county survey map, or are they if I select a certain layer? Why is this all so difficult to figure out?

[BC13]

Hahaha! And it'd be weird to just fix the one switch panel. Better do the whole house.

Quoted for truth!

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[Buzzworthy]

I’m confused, do surveyors use the monuments in my neighborhood to pinpoint my property lines or not?
If so I’m presuming the farther away they are, the more expensive my survey?
Based on my neighborhood map they are blocks away, is that bad I presume?
Why arent any property markers showing up in my neighborhood on a county survey map, or are they if I select a certain layer?
Why is this all so difficult to figure out?

The start of the survey would more than likely be off something other than an engineered subdivision. You have to start at a very known point to be precise with the plans the engineer stamps so they are not going to rely on another survey of that nature.
Further away in the old days would mean yes, you pay more due to the field crew work shooting transit from way point to your lot. With GPS, that is not necessarily the case anymore. Depends on the company you hire as well and what equipment they use.
You can't presume anything with the limited data you have currently.
If it was easy you would not be paying a few grand and could just do it yourself.
Its a skill for sure to learn how to do all of this.

[old goat]

I'm jeaous of what you guys pay for a survey. We're looking at possibly getting one because the neighbor had a boundary survey done which claims we're encroaching 2 feet. We're hoping to avoid because the boundary survey was based on a recorded survey that a court ordered removed because of it's dubious accuracy. So hopefully the neighbor will drop it.

When Palisades wantet to build a gondola between Olympic and Apine there was a lot said about the gondola encroaching on the Granite Chief Wilderness. So they went back and started looking at the orginal surveys from the 19th C, which referenced a lot of permanent land features--like cliffs and big boulders. Except no one can find any of the supposed landmarks. As best as anyone can tell the surveyors never left the hotel bar in Truckee.

[Art Shirk]

Can anyone find me a corner support bracket to go under this 4x4 that will jut out from a corner. Triangle is best due to the weight. I will be attaching something to the end of the 4x4 with just a bit of heft, so it will be suspended in air.

I know there is something out there for sure but can’t find it. I will reward you all with pictures of one of the more ridiculous bathroom remodels you’ve likely seen.


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[::: :::]

Cut a piece of triangle wood blocking then use as a stabilizing shim behind a normal angle bracket. Screw through the triangle to hit the corner stud beyond.








Or just don’t — why???

[Art Shirk]

I could build my own but I’d rather not and I wanted to also add some metal to the equation especially if easy to purchase. As to why, no one else suspends 6ft wingspan stuffed geese in their absurdly adorned powder rooms directly in an upper corner perch?


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[old goat]

It's easy enough to find a black triangle shelf bracket, as heavy, as big, and as fancy or plain as you like on line. I would do what ::: suggests and cut a a long narrow triangle to fill the space between the metal and the corner, otherwise the edges of the bracket will dig into the sheet rock. If you're looking for something that screws to the sidewalls of the corner good luck, unless you have it custom made. I don't think that would offer any advantage to a shelf bracket and I don't think it would look any better.

[Art Shirk]

What sort of black triangle shelf bracket are you suggesting? I’ve yet to find one that would actually support this lumber directly in a corner at a 45 degree angle.


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[John_B]

What sort of black triangle shelf bracket are you suggesting? I’ve yet to find one that would actually support this lumber directly in a corner at a 45 degree angle.


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Find a table saw or circ saw that the blade can be set to a 45 degree angle and create a shim that is cut to fit and will fill in the corner and allow you to use a standard shelf bracket.

[old goat]

What sort of black triangle shelf bracket are you suggesting? I’ve yet to find one that would actually support this lumber directly in a corner at a 45 degree angle.


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How about this one?
https://ironsupports.com/products/pa...4aAtMEEALw_wcB

[Art Shirk]

Find a table saw or circ saw that the blade can be set to a 45 degree angle and create a shim that is cut to fit and will fill in the corner and allow you to use a standard shelf bracket.

Ah don’t know why I missed that earlier. This is why is didn’t think Old Goats shelf bracket would work as it wasn’t going to fit snug in the corner on the vertical. Reread his post and understand now. Done and done.

Bathroom pics to follow in the next week or so.


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[Art Shirk]

How about this one?
https://ironsupports.com/products/pa...4aAtMEEALw_wcB

See above. Originally ruled these out but will make a shim. Think I just misunderstood you the first time but it clicked when John mentioned the idea. Thx dude

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[Core Shot]

Once you get your bracket
Pre drill and countersink a timber lock from the top.

[bagtagley]

I’m confused, do surveyors use the monuments in my neighborhood to pinpoint my property lines or not? If so I’m presuming the farther away they are, the more expensive my survey? Based on my neighborhood map they are blocks away, is that bad I presume? Why arent any property markers showing up in my neighborhood on a county survey map, or are they if I select a certain layer? Why is this all so difficult to figure out?

Ah, sorry, thought the goal was to avoid the survey. They’ll need to start from a known point. I always assumed they needed line of sight to get from the known point to wherever, which could make cost increase with distance and complexity, but that could be wrong. Ask the next surveyor you call, or call the county surveyor’s office and ask them. Surveyors love to talk about what they do. Tell them you want to see their Total Station.

[anotherVTskibum]

I'm jeaous of what you guys pay for a survey. We're looking at possibly getting one because the neighbor had a boundary survey done which claims we're encroaching 2 feet. We're hoping to avoid because the boundary survey was based on a recorded survey that a court ordered removed because of it's dubious accuracy. So hopefully the neighbor will drop it.

When Palisades wantet to build a gondola between Olympic and Apine there was a lot said about the gondola encroaching on the Granite Chief Wilderness. So they went back and started looking at the orginal surveys from the 19th C, which referenced a lot of permanent land features--like cliffs and big boulders. Except no one can find any of the supposed landmarks. As best as anyone can tell the surveyors never left the hotel bar in Truckee.

In dealing with the neighbor's property line issue (because I was somewhat concerned they would try to shift their whole driveway a few feet, which would have put it inches from our fence), I pulled all the deeds going back to when the whole street was part of one property.

By the time I got back to current and was making notes on a current tax map, I was a lot more sympathetic to how screwed up the current situation was. Lots of "thence to the land now or previously of John Smith, and then eastward 15 feet more or less before running northward to the land now or previously of William Jones..."

Of course, the lots referenced were similarly defined. The more modern references (xxxx.yy feet at a compass heading) seemed easier, but I found one shared line that was described as three feet shorter on the downhill lot then the uphill one. Apparently a lot of the in town surveys in recent history were done by the same guy, because he was cheap, but perhaps not so good.

My brother is a surveyor on the other side of the country and when I emailed him all the docs I could find, including the survey from when our lot was subdivided from the neighbor's, his comment was "this 'survey' makes my head hurt". So I guess rules vary by state, but you may also want to verify exactly what you get in buying a survey. If your state doesn't require a narrative, you might still want to get one (if I understand correctly, that would be a part of the document explaining how the surveyor located and utilized any existing monuments).

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[old goat]

Property line disputes in old neighborhoods are bullshit. Reliable, reasonably close monuments are long gone. The houses were built, usually to the setback lines, fences and driveways put in, the houses passed through multiple owners who accepted the situation on the ground and paid for their houses based on that, not on the dimensions of the lot on the plat. Unless there is evidence the current owner moved a fence or rebuilt closer to the neighbor, etc, let sleeping dogs lie. But people love to fight about these things, especially retired people.

[present tense]

This post was super timely, upstairs furnace on the fritz. It goes through most of the startup cycle but sometimes short cycles several times and never fires. I’ve changed air filter, blew out flue pipe and checked for obstructions, cleaned flame detector, took out and tapped the high limit switch. The blower fan will also run in “on” position but never kicks on in auto, so I guess that’s good. Gas flow should be good with gas water heater in same space off same line working fine. Could be issue with gas valve?

Today I called around and either no one had a pressure switch or the ones that did wouldn’t sell them to “homeowners”.

Also, after cycling unit off for a few minutes I get a 3 short blink code which is something related to pressure switch on the diagnostics, but eventually that code goes away, I get a normal call for heat blinking, startup Continues, including hot surface ignition, but Then no flame. (sporadically) hot surface stops trying to fire but occasionally it cycles on and off repeatably and never times or locks the cycle out. Induction motor is rolling, hearing some clicks (pressure switch cutting in and out?), and hot surface starts glowing for a few seconds then cycles off, then flows bright, cycles off, flows bright, so on. Is it possible the hot surface is not getting hot enough to ignite?

Amazon is sending a pressure switch by Wednesday hopefully which coincides with earliest day I could get a tech out. Will see which gets her first.

It was the control board, shorted out and going haywire. If any future mags need help troubleshooting a gas furnace I’ll share what i know. Learned a lot about furnace cycles, switches, and checking component voltage.

[Buzzworthy]

Tell them you want to see their Total Station.

Chortled haha

[Cocximus]

Can self leveling concrete be poured on top of epoxy coated concrete?

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[Core Shot]

Can self leveling concrete be poured on top of epoxy coated concrete?

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No

Well, yes. It can be poured. But it won’t bond.

How big of an area are trying to level?
Floor grinders would be ideal.

But if it’s a small area you could make slice cuts with a hand grinder. It’s easier than trying to grind off all the old finish.

[Cocximus]

The whole area is about 200sq/ft. I checked the space and the only area of concern is a 1/8" dip over a 3'x3'. The rest is level and smooth, within flooring spec of 1/8" over 6'. I guess I Would only have to clean and pour leveling concrete in that one area. Shouldn't be too bad with an angle grinder and diamond grinding cup?

Another thing, I am reading LVP cannot handle furniture on top of it. I wanted to put a sofa and a desk, but I guess that won't work?

[::: :::]

The whole area is about 200sq/ft. I checked the space and the only area of concern is a 1/8" dip over a 3'x3'. The rest is level and smooth, within flooring spec of 1/8" over 6'. I guess I Would only have to clean and pour leveling concrete in that one area. Shouldn't be too bad with an angle grinder and diamond grinding cup?

Another thing, I am reading LVP cannot handle furniture on top of it. I wanted to put a sofa and a desk, but I guess that won't work?

Just depends - those two items have the benefit of spanning a decent distance; maybe the layout can avoid the dip?

If dry (epoxy should be), physical shims under the LVP can work too. I’ve seen drywallers & flooring guys use strips of 1/16” chipboard (cardboard) to bridge small areas to fix a flex condition…plastic works better but maybe more expensive and harder to find appropriate material

[teletech]

If you couldn’t put furniture on lvp it would be worthless. Shouldn’t put cabinets On it but furniture is fine. Wouldn’t worry about an 1/8 inch dip. I usually put an underlayment under click lvp, gives it a better feel

[muted reborn]

Ah, sorry, thought the goal was to avoid the survey. They’ll need to start from a known point. I always assumed they needed line of sight to get from the known point to wherever, which could make cost increase with distance and complexity, but that could be wrong. Ask the next surveyor you call, or call the county surveyor’s office and ask them. Surveyors love to talk about what they do. Tell them you want to see their Total Station.

Ha, I bey they do. Yes, goal for the survey is to prove our property is much bigger than what the county says, and also figure out a fence line.

I presume I can hold on to the survey info and not have it registered with the county until I want to sell the property? I guess I could ask the surveyor that though