Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice

[Core Shot]

Actuarial knew it killed in the 1910s. Doctors knew of the dangers of asbestos in the 1920s. Manufacturers were well aware of the risks by the 1930s toworkers. But there was money to be made so they said “fuck you” and lied. John’s-mansville were shitty humans, no surprise the ceo founded the AEI

In a prior life I did research on asbestosis for a law firm

THe saddest data was fireproof mattress manufacturers. Men would beat the mattresses while women stitched the seams. The factory was a constant snowstorm.

The mattresses were mostly for ww1 and ww2 ships when fire breaks out.

And they knew. And they did it anyway.

[fastfred]

Yo Fred...
Attachment 396833

https://ridecake.com/en/shop/bikes/work/osa-work/

sold my fess tool shit
can't get sandpaper for the sander world has gone stupid

plus that looks like something some urban cowboy man bun wearing hippie dippy fruit cake who lives in the up and coming section of an urban area would own
oh-wait never mind

[dunfree]

sold my fess tool shit
can't get sandpaper for the sander world has gone stupid

plus that looks like something some urban cowboy man bun wearing hippie dippy fruit cake who lives in the up and coming section of an urban area would own
oh-wait never mind

be honest, the day laborers fucked it up.

[coldfoot]

The particle board atop plywood thing was very 70s. You can just go around and add screws as necessary to fix squeaks and then put your new floor right on it. Whatever off-gassing the particle board had to do has long since passed.

Oh, and if you're going to scrape the popcorn (damped first, of course) yourself, leave the carpet in until that's finished. It will catch it all and then you can just roll it up and carry it to the dump.

Thanks for the insight. In my younger daze I used to work hazmat/abatement jobs so I know the deal with popcorn (which also made me think mold/rot with the particle board, but what little I've seen so far looks okay)

[Vt-Freeheel]

$1,100,000??? Unsupported and rattling pipes is one thing, but using cvpc piping in a new build is criminal. I guess these DC area McMansions are just the lowest level of wallboard box.


https://www.facebook.com/reel/565008948072472/?s=ifu

[fatnslow]

Thanks for the insight. In my younger daze I used to work hazmat/abatement jobs so I know the deal with popcorn (which also made me think mold/rot with the particle board, but what little I've seen so far looks okay)

I had a house where I had t&g hardwood installed and they removed about 700 squares of that stuff. The guy had made some wedges with 2x8 about 2 feet wide that he pounded in to lever out large pieces.

[BC13]

We are replacing all the natural Cedar trim in the house with more modern white trim. We are almost done and are in the midst of painting the casement windows.

I have no clue how to get the rectangular housing for the cranking mechanism out, or if they actually come out. I've painted all the other hardware a dark antique bronze and want these pieces to match. The crank handles come off easily with a flathead screwdriver, but have no clue about the rectangular mechanism housing.

The locking mechnisma simply unscrewed and popped out.

Does anyone have experience with these mechanisms? I painted the ones in our kitchen in place but the location allowed for taping and use of plastic. These are in our bedroom with brand new light colored carpet - so there will be no spraying in place.

Thanks for your wisdom and wit. I'm expecting a healthy dose of one or the other.

And I know my sanding job leaves something to be desired, but this is the last set of windows to deal with and I have fucking had it with sanding and filling and sanding. The previous owners had a big dog that scratched the heck out of all lower window sills. Once painted white the scratches bothered me as they were noticeable. After painting all the windows and replacing/painting the trim I am cooked.



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[Vt-Freeheel]

Those look like Truth operators and they just pop off. Pry carefully as they are likely stuck in paint.

You'll be able to sand that loose flake under the handle you painted over easily.

[BC13]

Those look like Truth operators and they just pop off. Pry carefully as they are likely stuck in paint.

You'll be able to sand that loose flake under the handle you painted over easily.

Thanks Freeheel!

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[krp8128]

Those look like Truth operators and they just pop off. Pry carefully as they are likely stuck in paint.

You'll be able to sand that loose flake under the handle you painted over easily.

How do I get my mid 80's Anderson operators off?

[Core Shot]

How do I get my mid 80's Anderson operators off?

Same way. Once the handle is off, the plastic trim can be prying off. If it’s old and tabs break, just caulk it back down.

[Vt-Freeheel]

This^^

Rethinking this as memory awakens. If the operator has two screws by the handle you have to pry the lower trim off to get the other screws. The trim is nailed down and hollow, loves to break as well.

[krp8128]

This^^

Rethinking this as memory awakens. If the operator has two screws by the handle you have to pry the lower trim off to get the other screws. The trim is nailed down and hollow, loves to break as well.

I'll have to look at it again tomorrow.

Someone did a decent job of painting it in, with the screws out it moves but seems caught up internally.

[I Skied Bandini Mountain]

Good thing about old True, Andersen and Pella window hardware - replacements are still made.

[carlh]

New house has an old chimney and wood fireplace and oil furnace. Chimney is is poor shape so planning to decommission and remove the stack eventually. Oil furnace will be replaced with a heat pump.
Looking at an electric insert in the fireplace, any suggestions on this? Getting an outlet installed in the firebox for power.
Also want to seal the damper, can I use spray foam for this?

[climberevan]

Electric "fireplaces" are pretty much just for looks. It's just an expensive, funny looking space heater. A 120V 20A circuit just isn't enough to do much heating. If you don't care about that, go ahead. Yes, spray foam will seal the damper.

You could put in a gas insert and really heat your house. They use separate pipes for intake and exhaust and don't require the chimney to be in good condition.

[anotherVTskibum]

Electric "fireplaces" are pretty much just for looks. It's just an expensive, funny looking space heater. A 120V 20A circuit just isn't enough to do much heating. If you don't care about that, go ahead. Yes, spray foam will seal the damper.

You could put in a gas insert and really heat your house. They use separate pipes for intake and exhaust and don't require the chimney to be in good condition.

A gas insert also gives you a second heat source, which can be handy if you have any trouble with the heat pump or just want to bump the heat in the primary living area.

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[carlh]

No gas in the house so that’s not an option. Chimney stack is leaning and cracking so needs to be repaired or removed and I figure removal is a lot cheaper

[Rideski]

I've got an Elm root lifting my sidewalk. It's a good 20 feet away from the tree, so I'm planning on cutting it and removing. Seems it should be far enough away not to matter too much. 60 year old 80-90 foot tree.

But I have read it will heal better if a clean cut. I could use a sawzall. The ground is pretty hard so I think I'd need to excavate more. Could probably get it with an axe how it is now.

I was thinking of cutting a section out, and then trying to pound it through from the other side with a sledge and a 2x4 unless anyone has a better idea.

[climberevan]

No gas in the house so that’s not an option. Chimney stack is leaning and cracking so needs to be repaired or removed and I figure removal is a lot cheaper

Be sure to make a video of your demolition. Dropping a chimney like a tree is good, clean fun.

Don't waste the money on an electric fireplace--just get a space heater.

[I Skied Bandini Mountain]

I've got an Elm root lifting my sidewalk. It's a good 20 feet away from the tree, so I'm planning on cutting it and removing. Seems it should be far enough away not to matter too much. 60 year old 80-90 foot tree.

But I have read it will heal better if a clean cut. I could use a sawzall. The ground is pretty hard so I think I'd need to excavate more. Could probably get it with an axe how it is now.

I was thinking of cutting a section out, and then trying to pound it through from the other side with a sledge and a 2x4 unless anyone has a better idea.

Can you just grind the joint? Might be easier and quicker.

[Rideski]

I've read the concrete just cracks eventually, and the root isn't going to stop lifting and growing. Open to ideas though.

[Flounder]

I think the general rule is you don’t any to do anything within the drip line of the tree. There is also a ratio for trunk size to figure out the critical root zone. Found this online that shows pretty well. If your with the critical root zone, you run the risk of damaging the tree.

[Rideski]

It is within the drip line but not by a lot. The trunk diameter is about two feet, And the problem is about 20 feet from the trunk, so I think it's cool from that spec.
More wondering about how important a clean cut is. I've seen a bunch of people using their sawzall in dirt, just seems counter intuitive to me, even though I have a cheap HF corded saw. How does dirt now get into the mechanics?
Thought about trying to pull the root once cut, but pounding with a lever like a 2x4 seems more straight forward, probably after applying water.

[lifelinksplit]

No advice on whether it's ok to cut but if you do I wouldn't be worried about a sawzall. Just have a few blades as the dirt(etc) will dull it way quicker. If you have spare shitty chains you could also make quick work with a chainsaw. Lifting the concrete and getting the root out seems a bit trickier. Depending on difficulty you could break out concrete/gravel/re-form/pour. Honestly I'd get an opinion from a certified arborist but this is TGR.

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