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  1. #5176
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vt-Freeheel View Post
    What do I do with this?

    Attachment 385665
    Box them.

  2. #5177
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    Oct 2002
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    Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice

    Quote Originally Posted by Vt-Freeheel View Post
    What do I do with this?

    Attachment 385665
    Ask the plumber why he did it that way and brace yourself for a long-winded explanation that probably makes a twisted sense even if it still defies all logic. Itís not like he did it that way because it was easier. There will probably be a story involved.
    focus.

  3. #5178
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    Sep 2006
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    5,742
    I have a little landscape gig to do. Have done one similar but was years ago.

    Bust (dead) sod from 240 square feet, plus another inch or two of dirt.

    On the fence about renting a Dingo. I know I could do it by hand, just not sure how long it will take.

    Also, what do you do when you have a rolloff at a job site, and rando's want to throw furniture in it?

    Several posts back someone mentioned dump trailer. Would that have been cheaper than the $400 rolloff? It's probably going to be 2-3 tons of waste or so I've been told from the rolloff companies. 240sq x 3 inches deep.

  4. #5179
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    We can get rolloffs here with lockable screened covers to keep things in when windy and bears and randos out.

  5. #5180
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    Mar 2006
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    17,778
    I had a change order at the last minute today. Small add but luckily we had paint to finish because there is no more matte finish available near by.

  6. #5181
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    Oct 2010
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    Ok Iíll join in the fun.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  7. #5182
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    Apr 2021
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rideski View Post
    Also, what do you do when you have a rolloff at a job site, and rando's want to throw furniture in it?
    Once you're done with it, charge them $20 a piece, cash. The dump charges by the sled, not the weight. Don't mix furniture in the dirt/concrete bin though, the dump will pound you with extra charges then.
    Wait, how can we trust this guy^^^ He's clearly not DJSapp

  8. #5183
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    Sep 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vt-Freeheel View Post
    What do I do with this?

    Attachment 385665
    Paint it green, call it art, profit.

  9. #5184
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    Sep 2006
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    Yeah I meant without permission in the middle of the night.
    Locked screen is a great idea, called them, this company doesn't offer.

  10. #5185
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    Nov 2002
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    6,997
    Quote Originally Posted by Rideski View Post
    Yeah I meant without permission in the middle of the night.
    Locked screen is a great idea, called them, this company doesn't offer.
    About all you can do is put up game cameras of at least signs that say you have cameras. It is a battle around here also but I always win.

  11. #5186
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    Apr 2021
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    246
    Quote Originally Posted by liv2ski View Post
    Anyone remove an old drive way and have it re-poured lately? Standard 2 car garage type pad, that is about 15 feet in length. $15k bid. WTF?
    Lots of things wrong here. If you have a 2 car driveway in CA, it's 20' long minimum. A minivan is 17' long for reference. So I'm going to go ahead and assume the driveway is actually 20'x30', which is still small. Using SoCal concrete prices and labor...

    1. Concrete demo - 3 man crew, 1 day with a bobcat, breaker and trucking to offhaul the concrete. 24 mhrs @ $60/hour (labor) + 8 hours bobcat $300 + pickup with trailer 130 + 10 cy dirt & concrete sled $350 = $2,220 before markup
    2. Subgrade prep - 3 man crew, 1 day with a bobcat to dig out old subgrade and install, 4" deep 3/4" aggregate crushed rock base, 18 tons @ $35/ton delivered, vibroplate to compact = 24 mhrs @ $60 + bobcat 300 + pickup with trailer 130 + dirt offhaul (use sled from above) = $2,500 before markup
    3. Rebar and formwork - 2 man crew, 1 day - 16 mhrs @ $60/mhr, form supplies @ $200, 400lbs #4 rebar @ 12" oc each way single mat $400 = $1,560 before markup
    4. Concrete pour and finish - 5 man crew, 1 day - 40 mhrs @ $60/mhr. 10 cy concrete @ $150/cy (CA concrete environmental fees are great) = $3,900 before markup
    5. Strip forms and cleanup - 2 man crew, 1/2 day - 8 mhrs @ $60/mhr = $480 before markup

    Subtotal - $10,660 in direct materials and labor before adding the home office and markup. We're in weird times so 40% doesn't sound that off. Maybe fastfred will do it for 35% if he can drink your liquor and smoke your weed.

    I'm sure I missed some things here, this is a quick one for me. $60/hour is about 15% below what we pay fully burdened union labor with all employment taxes for this work. The laborer only sees somewhere around $35-40/hour. I know in Norcal the going rate for unskilled residential labor is $25/hour, so for concrete that's probably about right. You don't want a hack playing with your concrete.
    Wait, how can we trust this guy^^^ He's clearly not DJSapp

  12. #5187
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    Aug 2007
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    Thanks for the detailed explanation, but at this point it really doesn't matter. From the bid the driveway size is 17x26=442'
    Quote Originally Posted by leroy jenkins View Post
    I think you'd have an easier time understanding people if you remembered that 80% of them are fucking morons.
    That is why I like dogs, more than most people.

  13. #5188
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    Quote Originally Posted by I Skied Bandini Mountain View Post
    Looks way out of plumb.
    Is that why the water won't stay in the bowl?

  14. #5189
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mustonen View Post
    Ask the plumber why he did it that way and brace yourself for a long-winded explanation that probably makes a twisted sense even if it still defies all logic. It’s not like he did it that way because it was easier. There will probably be a story involved.
    Maybe just needed to get pipes from A to B and there was something in the way he didn't want to go through--piece of steel perhaps. Or for some reason there wasn't room for shutoff valves downstream--although it's hard to think of a reason why.
    Shutoff valves are god's gift to the homeowner. With them we can tackle plumbing repairs in the confidence that if we fuck it up it's just one fixture off line. Without them and we have to move into a motel until the plumber comes and we can turn the water to the house back on. I wish my house had more shutoff valves.

  15. #5190
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    Oct 2002
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    Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice

    Quote Originally Posted by jackstraw View Post
    Generally speaking, don't do this.
    Quote Originally Posted by RootSkier View Post
    Fuckin' plumbers and electricians, man.
    Just came across this on a DIY site. JustÖ.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    My last house, the plumber had moved a bathroom to what must have been a bedroom before. Cut 90% through every single floor joist the 6 foot run of the drain. Directly underneath the tub. Not a 3 foot span like Jackstraws pic, eitherÖ. Middle 30% of a solid 10 foot span. The floor sagged, so somebody came along behind and leveled it with plywood sistered to the joists to bring the flooring up.

    Terrifying.
    focus.

  16. #5191
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    Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice

    ^^^ which, my current project: moving a washer and dryer into a bathroom and out of a bedroom. Lazy DIY me wants to just run the drain and supply up behind the washer, outside the wall. Clamped to the wall so itís secure, though ugly. Itíll be hidden by the washer and if I place it right it wonít bump the washer out any further. Final product will be finished with a countertop above front load washer and dryer, under a window, cabinet in between. Additional and primary rationale (rationalization) is that itís an outside wall and Iíve had bad experiences with frozen supply lines to washers in this area.

    But the derision higher up in this thread about fucking escutcheons under the sink has me second guessing that.

    Thoughts?
    focus.

  17. #5192
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mustonen View Post
    ^^^ which, my current project: moving a washer and dryer into a bathroom and out of a bedroom. Lazy DIY me wants to just run the drain and supply up behind the washer, outside the wall. Clamped to the wall so itís secure, though ugly. Itíll be hidden by the washer and if I place it right it wonít bump the washer out any further. Final product will be finished with a countertop above front load washer and dryer, under a window, cabinet in between. Additional and primary rationale (rationalization) is that itís an outside wall and Iíve had bad experiences with frozen supply lines to washers in this area.

    But the derision higher up in this thread about fucking escutcheons under the sink has me second guessing that.

    Thoughts?
    runnig the pipe outside in the weather ? Its pretty cold here so that would freeze

    sounds like dumb shit homeowners do
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  18. #5193
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    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    runnig the pipe outside in the weather ? Its pretty cold here so that would freeze

    sounds like dumb shit homeowners do
    What? No. Inside the room, but not inside the wall.
    focus.

  19. #5194
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    Making the Bowl Great Again
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    Quote Originally Posted by liv2ski View Post
    Thanks for the detailed explanation, but at this point it really doesn't matter. From the bid the driveway size is 17x26=442'
    Your low bid is all theoretical at this point. Vibes + good luck.

  20. #5195
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mustonen View Post
    What? No. Inside the room, but not inside the wall.
    in a print medium its easy to not understand what you are saying

    so cut/break out the 16" of DW between studs, instal what plumbing you need to and re- DW

    it doesnt have to be finished all that well becuz the appilance is going in front of it anyway

    slap some paint on and bob's yeruncle
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  21. #5196
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    Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice

    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    in a print medium its easy to not understand what you are saying

    so cut/break out the 16" of DW between studs, instal what plumbing you need to and re- DW

    it doesnt have to be finished all that well becuz the appilance is going in front of it anyway

    slap some paint on and bob's yeruncle
    Except the rest of the post wouldnít make any goddamn sense then.

    Right. I get how to do it right. Just donít wanna.
    Last edited by Mustonen; 09-18-2021 at 05:43 PM.
    focus.

  22. #5197
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    Jan 2008
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    It's fun walking around in old French neighborhoods and seeing all the wires tacked to the outside of the stone walls.

  23. #5198
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    Quote Originally Posted by liv2ski View Post
    Thanks for the detailed explanation, but at this point it really doesn't matter. From the bid the driveway size is 17x26=442'
    5" thick or 4? Rebar? Proper expansion joint(s), or run a saw across and call it good? Smooth? Exposed aggregate? Sealed?

    You don't always get what you pay for, but you never get what you don't.

    If you have a nice house - and I'm certain you do - don't get a shitty driveway. Asking where their last job was, and driving over to look at it wouldn't be the worst idea.

  24. #5199
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mustonen View Post
    ^^^ which, my current project: moving a washer and dryer into a bathroom and out of a bedroom. Lazy DIY me wants to just run the drain and supply up behind the washer, outside the wall.
    If you're running it on the outside of the wall, where's it going, through the floor or into an interior side wall? If the answer is floor, will future you be cursing the present you when you have to replace the machines and/or redo the room?

  25. #5200
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    Mar 2008
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    northern BC
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ted Striker View Post
    If you're running it on the outside of the wall, where's it going, through the floor or into an interior side wall? If the answer is floor, will future you be cursing the present you when you have to replace the machines and/or redo the room?
    he is a rugged individualist who doesnt want to ... apparently they got lots of them down thar
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

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