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Thread: Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice
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09-14-2021, 09:37 AM #5076one of those sickos
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- Oct 2005
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- Tahoe-ish
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- 3,151
Spray foam is crazy chemicals and will cost you more than your shed is worth.
Cutting rigid foam to fit the stud bays will take ages and you'll end up with a million tiny gaps, negating any hoped-for R value increase.
Suck it up and do a good job with R-23 fiberglass batts. Get one of those long extendible razor knives, wear long sleeves and a mask, and it will only take a day. There's a reason almost all new construction is insulated with fiberglass.ride bikes, climb, ski, travel, cook, work to fund former, repeat.
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09-14-2021, 09:39 AM #5077
Isn't this an illegal building? The spray foam guys may talk.
"timberridge is terminally vapid" -- a fortune cookie in Yueyang
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09-14-2021, 10:10 AM #5078Registered User
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- Nov 2007
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- So. VT
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A building that small I'd go with two inch XPS insulation roughly cut to the stud base. Then you follow up with a can of great stuff and hit any little gaps
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09-14-2021, 11:48 AM #5079
It’s fucking 2x6 walls. In a man cave shed.
Install batts and be done with it.
The shit doesn’t itch like it used to decades ago.
Quick, cheap, easy.. . .
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09-14-2021, 11:58 AM #5080
This.
Wtf.
Just wear gloves and long sleeves. You will have that thing insulated in 20min.
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Squaw Valley, USA
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09-14-2021, 01:29 PM #5081
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09-14-2021, 01:48 PM #5082
the cheapest thing to stick in the pro forma
apropos of nothing....we have a truism here in the office (others may say this too; it's def not unique to us) to keep building strategies in perspective: "Code minimum is the worst possible construction standard you are legally allowed to build."
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09-14-2021, 03:27 PM #5083
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09-14-2021, 06:05 PM #5084Registered User
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- Sep 2011
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- Vermont
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My only experience with DIY foam was a Home Depot kit for sealing the sill in our house. Seemed to work fine. For a 10x12 if you want to try the DIY you could do a “flash and batt”. You spray an inch or two in the 2x6 cavity for air sealing and then use R-11/13 batts.
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09-15-2021, 09:05 AM #5085
Any recommendations for a pressure washer?
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09-15-2021, 09:20 AM #5086
Well, you could always get the absolute cheapest table saw you can find and start ripping those foam panels into 16" widths. Won't take that long, but that saw will be covered in foam particles forever afterward. When you install the panels, you'll still need to hit the 1/4" cracks with spray foam to seal gaps.
Or just roll batts like everyone else would. It is the most economical solution.Wait, how can we trust this guy^^^ He's clearly not DJSapp
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09-15-2021, 09:39 AM #5087
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09-15-2021, 09:44 AM #5088
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09-15-2021, 10:46 AM #5089
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09-15-2021, 10:54 AM #5090
Good call on a Honda, looks like there are a few companies that use their engines.
Damn shit is expensive.
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09-15-2021, 11:05 AM #5091
Tyvek before or after the roof is on?
Merde De Glace On the Freak When Ski
>>>200 cm Black Bamboo Sidewalled DPS Lotus 120 : Best Skis Ever <<<
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09-15-2021, 11:10 AM #5092
Whatever you do, don't put the Tyvek upside down.
"timberridge is terminally vapid" -- a fortune cookie in Yueyang
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09-15-2021, 11:13 AM #5093
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09-15-2021, 12:13 PM #5094
What’s the use?
Do you want to remove material with it or just deep clean?
Sent from my iPhone using TGR ForumsBest Skier on the Mountain
Self-Certified
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Squaw Valley, USA
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09-15-2021, 12:14 PM #5095
I've got a roof venting and insulation question for folks. I'm helping a buddy with a remodel that he is doing on his house. He is turning a section of porch into a mudroom. The porch roof is made with exposed 2x10s. He has framed in walls using the existing footprint of the porch but is now stumped on what to do with his roof insulation and venting. The roof is currently unvented.
Since we live in cold snow country I figure he's gotta do some research on the necessary insulation thickness then sister in 2xs of some sort to increase the depth of insulation. Where I am struggling is what to do for venting at the upper end of the roof. Drilling bird block holes and adding hardware cloth into the blocking at the lower end is straight forward but I'm totally lost on what to advise at the upper end where it connects to the house.
Does anyone have advice for what type of venting to use and what the terminology I should be using in my internet searching for advice on what to use?
Edit: Current roofing is metal with a stucco wall above. I'm thinking something like this is the ticket but could still use any advice. https://www.metalera.com/Products/De...eets-High-Wall
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09-15-2021, 12:16 PM #5096
A lot of the foam panels are pre-dimpled at 16” width and snap over a knee easily. The blue XPS for example…
Sent from my iPhone using TGR ForumsBest Skier on the Mountain
Self-Certified
1992 - 2012
Squaw Valley, USA
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09-15-2021, 12:23 PM #5097
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09-15-2021, 12:39 PM #5098
Is he trying to keep the rafters exposed inside the mudroom?
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09-15-2021, 01:01 PM #5099
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09-15-2021, 01:25 PM #5100
If you use closed cell sprayfoam you don’t need vents.
Then again, it’s a small area. With no vents and batts, worst case is shingles don’t last as long and sheathing delams. So why worry.
Rigid foam with spray can foam around the gaps wouldn’t be a bad call.. . .
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