Page 189 of 380 FirstFirst ... 184 185 186 187 188 189 190 191 192 193 194 ... LastLast
Results 4,701 to 4,725 of 9498
  1. #4701
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    关你屁事
    Posts
    9,532
    A flatsawn 2x like pictured will cup and warp.

  2. #4702
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Posts
    527
    Speaking of twisting wood... I bought a fairly cheap picnic table a couple years ago- one of the table top boards had an obvious twist, but it wasn't too bad and at the time I figured we would live with it rather disassembling and putting it back on the pallet and demanding a new one.

    Of course it is much worse now and really annoying me. The thing was cheap and we are in Seattle so it will never look too nice. I just want it flat. The board is 1 3/8 x 5 actual size, so to just replace I'd have to cut/plane something down I think, and don't have anything better than a circular saw. Am I dumb/wasting my time to think I can force it flattish? I was thinking of using a hole saw to counterbore some bolts.

  3. #4703
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Posts
    8,715
    ^^^ I'm thinking dumb. What are you gonna bolt it to? And I think the term you are looking for is "forstner bit:.

  4. #4704
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    关你屁事
    Posts
    9,532
    Buy a shitty plane, flatten.

  5. #4705
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Dystopia
    Posts
    21,054
    I built a picnic table from pt two years ago.
    Way better than the cheap shit.

    We use it as a pool diving platform. Beefy and strong.
    . . .

  6. #4706
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    2,661
    Quote Originally Posted by dunfree View Post
    Buy a shitty plane, flatten.
    I was thinking the same thing, but with a belt sander. You'd have to refinish the table though.

  7. #4707
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Sandy by the front
    Posts
    2,345
    Quote Originally Posted by zion zig zag View Post
    Update on this. I replaced the pressure tank and that seems to have fixed the short cycling pump. But, now we have brown water, which we didn’t discover until my wife washed a big load of whites, which are now brown.

    Google says that replacing the pressure tank can cause this by stirring up sediment? Also read that because the pump was short cycling sediment may have built up on the pump inlet? Paraphrasing here. Anyway, after a week of water usage my wife says it’s still brown.

    Several questions here. How long should it take for the water to go clear? We have a whole house filter, two actually, a Pentek Big Blue 10” that filters to 50 microns and then a NuvoH2O that supposedly softens and filters to 5 microns. Why didn’t these filter the sediment? Possible they just got overwhelmed and now they are full and allowing sediment through? I won’t be there till next week, so I can’t look and change them till then.

    Also, will the filter housing for the Pentek Big Blue 20 just screw into the base for the 10? They both appear to be same size at the base. By switching to the 20 I could filter down to 1 micron.

    Edit: looking at ISBM’s photo I think my filter could be a Pentair.
    Are you getting brown water from cold water faucets? Hot water tanks can be a source of brown water when a large "chunk" of crap breaks loose. I had that happen and it took several flushes to get all of the deposits out. Outside water faucets should always be unsoftened water. Using softened water outside is a needless waste of salt when the unit regenerates more frequently. I have a 22 yer old water softener that regenerates on demand. The timer has a hardness setting, tell it how hard your water is. It then knows to regenerate after 12,000 gallons of water usage.

  8. #4708
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Joisey
    Posts
    2,495

    Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice

    Quote Originally Posted by bigdude2468 View Post
    Are you getting brown water from cold water faucets? Hot water tanks can be a source of brown water when a large "chunk" of crap breaks loose. I had that happen and it took several flushes to get all of the deposits out. Outside water faucets should always be unsoftened water. Using softened water outside is a needless waste of salt when the unit regenerates more frequently. I have a 22 yer old water softener that regenerates on demand. The timer has a hardness setting, tell it how hard your water is. It then knows to regenerate after 12,000 gallons of water usage.
    12000 gallons??? Mine regenerates every 1000 gallons.
    Because rich has nothing to do with money.

  9. #4709
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Joisey
    Posts
    2,495

    Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice

    Speaking of brown water, I did a well disinfection a few weeks ago and this came out of the faucet after a few days of disinfection water sitting in the well/pipes.

    Name:  IMG_2820.jpg
Views: 337
Size:  43.9 KB
    Because rich has nothing to do with money.

  10. #4710
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Where the climate suits my clothes.
    Posts
    5,601
    Ugh, seems I shot myself in the foot last week talking about inspections when I said we bought our (1848) home with the attached barn/garage "as is".

    Henri kicked my ass to finally show some long time failures in the wall between barn and TV room.

    Barn wall is rapidly deteriorating, which led to a major ceiling leak / mold situation in the attached room.

    Awaiting a call back from insurance, not sure if this is covered or not..

    I can fix it, but estimated materials cost is 2k+ with 20-30 hrs labor.

    No contractors out yet, but guessing they'll quote 5-7k.

    Hopefully insurance covers it.. deductible is $1,000.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20210825_112321.jpeg 
Views:	66 
Size:	38.7 KB 
ID:	383513Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20210825_112129_resized.jpeg 
Views:	116 
Size:	56.8 KB 
ID:	383514Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20210825_122230.jpeg 
Views:	77 
Size:	119.4 KB 
ID:	383515

  11. #4711
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    inpdx
    Posts
    20,197
    Quote Originally Posted by JayPowHound View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20210825_112129_resized.jpeg 
Views:	116 
Size:	56.8 KB 
ID:	383514
    i know you are in snow zone so likely no gutters, but you need to redirect water away from the wall below the eave line
    that green zone on the siding is a clue that that wall is going to stay wet thru wet season
    (& you may have further hidden issues behind that green stain)

    either create a positive cricket that pushes draining water away from the adjacent wall
    or, use a limited gutter/downspout system to allow water to get to the ground without soaking the wall

    that is a long term risk surface: everything below that last piece of step flashing
    try to tie it into you insurance claim, if you can

  12. #4712
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Sandy, Utah
    Posts
    14,410
    Quote Originally Posted by JayPowHound View Post
    Ugh, seems I shot myself in the foot last week talking about inspections when I said we bought our (1848) home with the attached barn/garage "as is".

    Henri kicked my ass to finally show some long time failures in the wall between barn and TV room.

    Barn wall is rapidly deteriorating, which led to a major ceiling leak / mold situation in the attached room.

    Awaiting a call back from insurance, not sure if this is covered or not..

    I can fix it, but estimated materials cost is 2k+ with 20-30 hrs labor.

    No contractors out yet, but guessing they'll quote 5-7k.

    Hopefully insurance covers it.. deductible is $1,000.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20210825_112321.jpeg 
Views:	66 
Size:	38.7 KB 
ID:	383513Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20210825_112129_resized.jpeg 
Views:	116 
Size:	56.8 KB 
ID:	383514Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20210825_122230.jpeg 
Views:	77 
Size:	119.4 KB 
ID:	383515
    good luck with the insurance company on that...

    also sorry...shit like that sucks to deal with...ive had floods before and shit ruined...its a bummer...

  13. #4713
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    3,064
    Quote Originally Posted by ::: ::: View Post
    i know you are in snow zone so likely no gutters, but you need to redirect water away from the wall below the eave line
    that green zone on the siding is a clue that that wall is going to stay wet thru wet season
    (& you may have further hidden issues behind that green stain)

    either create a positive cricket that pushes draining water away from the adjacent wall
    or, use a limited gutter/downspout system to allow water to get to the ground without soaking the wall

    that is a long term risk surface: everything below that last piece of step flashing
    try to tie it into you insurance claim, if you can
    Also that step flashing to weather barrier is underlapped instead of overlapped

  14. #4714
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Where the climate suits my clothes.
    Posts
    5,601
    Quote Originally Posted by tuco View Post
    Also that step flashing to weather barrier is underlapped instead of overlapped
    I know, but didnt until I pulled it apart this afternoon. Big part of what I'm hoping to have fixed if insurance will buy in.


    And thanks for mentioning the runoff, I have always known its a problem, and this is the perfect time to discuss it with the ins guy

  15. #4715
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    3,064
    Quote Originally Posted by JayPowHound View Post
    I know, but didnt until I pulled it apart this afternoon. Big part of what I'm hoping to have fixed if insurance will buy in.


    And thanks for mentioning the runoff, I have always known its a problem, and this is the perfect time to discuss it with the ins guy
    Not just runoff. That area looks freeze/thaw prone. Capillary action can be a real bitch. Leave some space between bottom of shakes and the roof deck too.

  16. #4716
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    inpdx
    Posts
    20,197
    Quote Originally Posted by tuco View Post
    Not just runoff. That area looks freeze/thaw prone. Capillary action can be a real bitch. Leave some space between bottom of shakes and the roof deck too.
    +1

  17. #4717
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Where the climate suits my clothes.
    Posts
    5,601
    insurance shot me down, not a "immediate or catastrophic" incident, but "gradual deterioration".

    Have a recommended local roofer coming by for a quote, but likely will turn into a DIY/ Learning Experience.

    I'll keep yall updated as things progress..

    And to the comments above (showing my ignorance) "shakes" and "positive cricket" are both gobbledygook to me. Can you elaborate before I start the Google machine?

  18. #4718
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    59715
    Posts
    7,448
    Looks like there is previous step flashing under the paper, step flashing on top of that is also too short along with no kick out flashing. You need to follow the green down the wall, you might have some hidden surprises under there and you might as well deal with it now.

  19. #4719
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    inpdx
    Posts
    20,197
    Quote Originally Posted by JayPowHound View Post
    wtf are "shakes"?
    shingles

    but technically of a different cut/size
    terms get used interchangeably sometimes

    https://parr.com/products/cedar-shin...1%2F2%E2%80%B3.

  20. #4720
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Where the climate suits my clothes.
    Posts
    5,601
    Quote Originally Posted by I Skied Bandini Mountain View Post
    Looks like there is previous step flashing under the paper, step flashing on top of that is also too short along with no kick out flashing. You need to follow the green down the wall, you might have some hidden surprises under there and you might as well deal with it now.
    This is unfortunately becoming the plan.. Im afraid of what I'll find, but I think my next few (many) weekends are now booked.

  21. #4721
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
    Posts
    11,701
    Quote Originally Posted by JayPowHound View Post
    This is unfortunately becoming the plan.. Im afraid of what I'll find, but I think my next few (many) weekends are now booked.
    I’m not a diy or death kinda guy like lots of people on here, but given your relative lack of experience and long term consequences to screwing this up, I might hire a professional even if it’s more $.

  22. #4722
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Where the climate suits my clothes.
    Posts
    5,601
    Quote Originally Posted by Supermoon View Post
    I’m not a diy or death kinda guy like lots of people on here, but given your relative lack of experience and long term consequences to screwing this up, I might hire a professional even if it’s more $.
    I think I have enough background to get it done right, and from my estimate a pro is at least 2x material cost if not more.

    I'll honestly enjoy learning about the process and will definitely do it right, just have to convince the wife it's worth the $ to have me unavailable for kid stuff the next few weekends..

    Should be an easy enough sell.

    Kinda looking forward to the project, although I wish I didn't have to. I work indoors all day, a few days doing manual labor on my roof actually sounds like a welcome break if that makes any sense..

    The outdoor stuff will be fun. Once I hit the ceiling indoors I may cave and hire someone. I already know how to do it, just hate patchwork mudding and the time/detail it takes to get things flat.

  23. #4723
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
    Posts
    11,701
    Mudding is the worst

  24. #4724
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    my own little world
    Posts
    5,838
    Quote Originally Posted by Supermoon View Post
    sanding is the worst
    FIFY
    focus.

  25. #4725
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Sandy, Utah
    Posts
    14,410
    Quote Originally Posted by Supermoon View Post
    Mudding is the worst
    and they guys that do it well are fucking masters in my opinion....ive taped and mudded more walls than I care to discuss and I still massively suck at it.....

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •