Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice

[Hopeless Sinner]

Hard to see but there's a little concrete nubbin from the form sticking out. Going to make me have the stones forward of the siding if I don't remove. Tempted to hammer drill it off?

No way I would eff w that nub. I'd rather rent the machine to cut the stones.

Have you tried a different layout to avoid the cutting?

[skifishbum]

^^^
at the end of the day with people lining up to pay more than askins
if the front doors a deal breaker id go with a new dirt dealer
seems like theyd just pay for the house they and for the door they want
if they want the house
i put new front doors in both ours after moving in
id go with a complimetary open bar in front of the door
outta take care of that curb appeal problem

[Djongo Unchained]

Hard to see but there's a little concrete nubbin from the form sticking out. Going to make me have the stones forward of the siding if I don't remove. Tempted to hammer drill it off?

Attachment 377829

Cold chisel and a 5 pound sledge. One whack, done.

[skifishbum]

im a fan of the 9lb hammer
way safer

[jm2e]

Why not just grind out the bottom edge of the paver?


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[::: :::]

+1 on grind the bump
It’s not going to subvert the wall

[Rideski]

Thanks everyone for the ins and outs of nubbin mitigation.

Upon further review, where the nubbin is, there's a dramatic degree difference in the foundation angle. Unfortunately the slab closer to the door and patio slab isn't square. So there's a 2 inch gap close to the patio slab. Where the head of the claw hammer is shows the gap. The nubbin and change of direction is six stones towards viewer.

I suppose I could have rented a stone saw and cut them all but she wanted an econo job and we decided to just roll with it. Will probably pack paver base in it, put more landscape fabric on top of that, and then more base or possibly a little 3/4 granite.

Didnt get the best pics hard to see in sun. Going back tomorrow to finish the outside paver line and fill in the rock border.

I'm definitely feeling skipping the poly sand for now. Give things time to move and shift and then maybe seal later. Anyone use caulk? Seems more directional and less messy than poly sand.

[fastfred]

Last door I ordered this spring was 4 months out but it was a special door for almost 5k I can imagine the door you want it's all the rage mid century modern w a twist of super ghey look at the ore pac catalogue online cheap and kinda fast doors interior doors are 2-3 weeks right now I can see how far next doors are prolly 2-4 weeks if that hip door is actually in denver

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[ötzi]

I can imagine the door you want it's all the rage mid century modern w a twist of super ghey look at the ore pac catalogue

From the Orepac catalogue to your heart: https://www.roguevalleydoor.com/products/1501

[BC13]

I swear I saw this discussed somewhere already (best tool thread?), but what’s the best tool/battery family to buy into these days? Need to buy some tools (and will probably replace/add some others) and trying to limit mix and match. Currently have Milwaukee drills (like), makita saw (don’t like), ridgid disc sander (not bad) and ridgid angle grinder (really not used enough to form an opinion).

Any specific tools still worth going corded or are the newer batteries that much better?


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Man, the batteries and cordless tools have improved a ton.

I have 18V Ridgid drills and oscillating tool that have lasted for 10+ years. I also have a 2nd set of Ridgid drills and have been pleased with them.

As I already had Ridgid batteries I intended to stay in that family. However, during Covid I got into the Ryobi line and currently have their Angle Grinder, jig saw, circular saw, 2 different sanders, trim router, and two nail guns (23 and 18 gauge). Mostnof my tools have the brushed motors , not brushless.

The only tool I am not impressed by is the Ryobi circular saw, which is underwhelming. It is fine for occassionally ripping plywood, but lacks power. The other Ryobi tools I own have been surprisingly good.

I am now invested in the Ryobi and Ridgid families of cordless tools and have 4 Ridgid batteries (2AH and 4 AH) and 6 Ryobi (4 AH) batteries. The Ridgid batteries last a long time drilling deck screws and running the oscillating tool. The Ryobi batteries last forever ( 1000?) In the nail guns and drain the fastest (15 M) in the Angle Grinder and CIrcular saw which seem to use the most juice. Having 6 batteries has resolved any and all battery issues. Also, for Father's day my wife got me the Ryobi 6 battery charger which is pretty sweet. It charges sequentially but keeps them all charged and in one spot.

I'm a home DIY guy who uses tools in spurts. Both brands have done well by me.

If you go Ryobi , you should buy your tools one of two ways:

1) but the best bundled set that fits your needs. I would have saved some $$ if I had done that. You can get everything a home owner needs for $599 on sale (10-12 tools). The con is they come with only 2 or 3 batteries.

2) several tools during their semi annual "buy two 4 AH batteries and get a free tool" promotion. Just had it for Father's Day. That way you can get 4 good batteries and 2 good tools for $200. The batteries are what cost $$.

If I was to buy just Ridgid i would buy a bundled package. In fact i would do the same for Dewalt or Milwaukee.


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[Falcon3]

Anybody have experience with fiberglass-laminated plywood? This was at my current home and last one in Spokane but I’ve never seen it anywhere else. It looks like whiteboard but with a woven gloss finish around hardwood plyboard. Maybe 3/4”.

Found a couple pieces partially burned in the fire pit, basically burned down to the woven mat and a powdery binder. I think it’s fiberglass but don’t want to mess around too much if it’s possible ACM or something else weird.

[Hopeless Sinner]

Last door I ordered this spring was 4 months out but it was a special door for almost 5k I can imagine the door you want it's all the rage mid century modern w a twist of super ghey look at the ore pac catalogue online cheap and kinda fast doors interior doors are 2-3 weeks right now I can see how far next doors are prolly 2-4 weeks if that hip door is actually in denver

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"with a twist of super ghey" - ff brings it

[dan_pdx]

From the Orepac catalogue to your heart: https://www.roguevalleydoor.com/products/1501

Nah, I'm thinking more like: https://www.roguevalleydoor.com/products/1521

[::: :::]

https://www.urbanfront.com/front-doors/bronze/
&

https://www.urbanfront.com/front-doors/steel/

[spanghew]

I see your urban bronze front doors and raise you the gates of hell:

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikiped...am_and_Eve.JPG

[fastfred]

https://www.orepac.com/Uploads/Catal...ruSDLDoors.pdf
4 lite
smooth star
rain glass
unfinished, don't let a hack paint it please and paint it red
if you go with factory finish it'll take another 3-4 weeks
prolly 1500 - 2000k
at least a month I'll call the rep later

[Foggy_Goggles]

The reason you can't find a stocked interior door is because there really is no such thing as a stock door. The slabs get made in some factory in China or Brazil and then sent in a shipping container to someone like Ore Pac. I retailer or wholesaler then orders a door with a certain handing, bore, hinge prep & color, jamb size etc. and then they hang and assemble the unit regionally. Places like home depot pre order their doors in common sizes but they are generally subject to the some process.

It is just one of those thing is the construction industry where the customer says, "But I don't understand" and the contractor said, "I know you don't understand, I'm patiently trying to explain it to you" and then 8/10 times the homeowner doesn't like the answer and gets pissy as if you are making it up.

The delusion from property owner is impressive. I swear people spend more time looking at the ingredients in their cereal than they do kicking the tires and performing due diligence mountain property.

I spend yesterday afternoon in the rain showing an HOA Board, a Management Company and a consulting engineer that their cantilevered 2nd and 3rd floor deck joists where rotten as in sink your fuckin' claw hammer through 'em rotten.

The general vibe was yawn...can't you just glue it back together...what about our landscaping and deck rails. Even after explaining that the repair involves pulling down the ceiling drywall and compriming the building envelop with no guarantee that the repair was gonna last more than about 5 minutes the disinterest was impressive. Ignoring it won't fix it.

[zion zig zag]

I spend yesterday afternoon in the rain showing an HOA Board, a Management Company and a consulting engineer that their cantilevered 2nd and 3rd floor deck joists where rotten as in sink your fuckin' claw hammer through 'em rotten.

The general vibe was yawn...can't you just glue it back together...what about our landscaping and deck rails. Even after explaining that the repair involves pulling down the ceiling drywall and compriming the building envelop with no guarantee that the repair was gonna last more than about 5 minutes the disinterest was impressive. Ignoring it won't fix it.

Maybe respond with a casual "hey, did you see that condo that collapsed in Florida and killed xxx people?" Not that it would help.

[californiagrown]

i just had a large porch built off the back of my house so we have outdoor space in rainy Seattle. Its about 420sf of covered area. to make it comfortable year round the plan was always to hang heaters from the ceiling like you have at restaurant decks. We do not have a gas connection out there so it will have to be electric (i dont like the propane tower heaters). Any recommendations on electric heaters or infrared heaters that we can hang from the ceiling or mount on the wall? Lots of options out there....

[RootSkier]

I'm definitely feeling skipping the poly sand for now. Give things time to move and shift and then maybe seal later. Anyone use caulk? Seems more directional and less messy than poly sand.

Caulk between pavers?! Absolutely the fuck not.

[XXX-er]

Maybe respond with a casual "hey, did you see that condo that collapsed in Florida and killed xxx people?" Not that it would help.

hey i had noting to do with that

[ötzi]

Caulk between pavers?! Absolutely the fuck not.

If the poly sand sketches you out (really all you have to do is a good job of getting it off the pavers before you get it wet, but whatever) maybe just use stone dust.

[old goat]

I see your urban bronze front doors and raise you the gates of hell:

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikiped...am_and_Eve.JPG

I see your Rodin Gates of Hell and raise you Ghiberti's Gates of Heaven.


What do you suppose the lead time is on those?

I spend yesterday afternoon in the rain showing an HOA Board, a Management Company and a consulting engineer that their cantilevered 2nd and 3rd floor deck joists where rotten as in sink your fuckin' claw hammer through 'em rotten.

The general vibe was yawn...can't you just glue it back together...what about our landscaping and deck rails. Even after explaining that the repair involves pulling down the ceiling drywall and compriming the building envelop with no guarantee that the repair was gonna last more than about 5 minutes the disinterest was impressive. Ignoring it won't fix it.

Berkeley balcony collapse
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Berkeley_balcony_collapse

[Rideski]

Caulk between pavers?! Absolutely the fuck not.

Noted

And yeah Ice the dust from the bag of paver sand filters down in nice.
I figure no rush on the poly sand, let some settling and maybe even a fix or two happen first. She tipped me $200 on a $900 job, so I guess she’s fairly happy at this point. I left plenty of sand on the pavers and edges which I figure the rain will filter down, supposed to rain for the next few days.

[RootSkier]

Looks good, man. Though that patio in general gives me claustrophobia.