What's the best option for a chain tensioner?

[RTR]

It's been a long time since I've posted on tgr, so here it goes:

I ride an Ellsworth Moment with two chain rings/bash guard up front, and the (used-to-be-standard) 9-gear cassette in the rear. When I'm bouncing through rocks, or rough patches in the trails, I'm losing my chain off the chain ring, up front.

1. Is there a chain tensioner out there that can easily be put on/taken off, given whether I'll be shuttling or DH'ing or riding up-and-down?
2. Is there a chain tensioner on the market that accommodates shifting in the front (e.g. I remember seeing a rear chain tensioner, once, I believe), or do you have to commit to one chain ring up front?
3. Also, how much pedaling resistance do these things actually produce?

Gracias.

[RTR]

Further research tells me that I can run a Blackspire Stinger chain guide in the front and this will preserve my ability to shift between the small and middle chain ring. Anyone have any experience with these?

[Dee Hubbs]

I have had great success with a Stinger in the past. I used it on my Norco Range 2x10. Shifted great, minimal chain drag, easy to adjust.
I should still have one in the parts bin of you are interested, ISCG05 mount.

[PlayItLeo]

^^^ what he said. For $25, it's a no brainier.

[RTR]

Thanks, guys... just ordered a stinger. Thanks for the offer Dee, but I need the BB mount. Cheers!

[frorider]

Stinger bearing tends to wear out quickly, so keep an eye on that to avoid drag. Another good option to consider down the road when you're in the market for a new derailleur is to run a SRAM 9 SPD shifter and a shimano 10 SPD clutch derailleur. A longer pinch bolt and a stack of washers about 4 mm high will make the sshifting perfect, or u can get the converter for a few bucks from a guy on ridemonkey dh forum. The clutch tension is adjustable, and can be switched on/off. You may or may not need the stinger at that point...depends, IME.

[Lindahl]

FWIW, I found a clutch derailleur doesn't do much at all for retaining chains. Keeps it real quiet though.

[BushwackerinPA]

a clutch derail and narrow wide keeps the chain on fine IMO.

[creaky fossil]

FWIW, I found a clutch derailleur doesn't do much at all for retaining chains. Keeps it real quiet though.

I find otherwise, as do several friends running clutch derailleurs. Ditched my Stinger after switching to a Shadow+ rear der. Not a single dropped or semi-dropped chain since.

Though I'm sure if someone rides sloppily enough and pretends they're the passenger on a steamroller down a trail flattening everything, and not absorbing anything themselves, a dropped chain is possible. Stuckboy could drop a chain with a Stinger and a clutch der, for example. Which is why you should always ask his advice on things MTB (and skiing too, where he's got even more e-cred that lacks meatspace underpinning).

[gravitylover]

Hmmph. I must be the smooooooothest rider ever I haven't dropped a chain in years whether trail riding or DH'n on my Enduro or bouncing through all of these EC rock gardens on my full rigid fatbike. No clutch hooey, no tensioner hassles just ride the damn bike. My Enduro came with one of those stinger things, it SUCKED. Every log over it would get jammed into the big ring, twice it was bad enough to break the chain and once a stick got caught in there and it ripped the thing to shreds. I said good riddance and never looked back. Stop whining and ride your damn bike.

Tensioner bullshit *shakes head* whatever...


edit: Heheh, I sound like Rog in this post

[Lindahl]

I find otherwise, as do several friends running clutch derailleurs. Ditched my Stinger after switching to a Shadow+ rear der. Not a single dropped or semi-dropped chain since.

I used to drop chains at times, when downhilling at Keystone. There's also a section on a local trail it could happen on, occassionally. The Narrow/Wide made the difference for me, the clutch did not - it may have helped a bit, but I still had dropped chains. Not an option for the OP though. YMMV.

[creaky fossil]

Yes, it's always the arrow and never the indian. Especially for Lindahl, who is more badass than anyone.

Don't say anything that contradicts Lindahl. He'll remind you how badass he is and why his badassedness explains what you said to contradict him. You're just not badass enough.

[creaky fossil]

My Enduro came with one of those stinger things, it SUCKED. Every log over it would get jammed into the big ring, twice it was bad enough to break the chain and once a stick got caught in there and it ripped the thing to shreds. I said good riddance and never looked back.

so you describe numerous pilot errors and blame them on the "stinger-like thing" you had on your enduro.

edit: Heheh, I sound like Lindahl in this post

fixed

though we could replace Lindahl with kidwoo and hold true equally. most badass muthafuckas on the internet.

[beaterdit]

OP does your bike have ISCG tabs? If so whatever you end up with will stay in place better.

A clutched derailleur would help no doubt, but likely won't totally eliminate your problem. When paired with a narrow wide chainring it usually does, as Bushwhackoff points out but he fails reading comprehension again in that you're running two rings and want to continue.

I ran a BB mount stinger with good results but it was prone getting knocked out of whack and bending if it hits or gets hit by something. I ended up drilling a hole in mine so I could bolt it into place on the iscg tab. It's pretty light aluminum though and it can still bend. For the price, it's a good way to go.

Probably the best option IMO is the MRP 2X guide, but it's also the most expensive by far. They make one that mounts on the BB and it'll be more resistant to getting knocked out of place due to the shape of the taco bash guard. I like the feature of having the bash too, even if you only need it once or twice a year. Also it seems like it'll run with a bit less resistance than a stinger. Never used it personally but I've seen it used with good results by a couple friends.

[RTR]

OP does your bike have ISCG tabs? If so whatever you end up with will stay in place better..

I don't have the ISCG tabs on this frame, and I ended up mounting the stinger, last night (BB mount). I'll see how it goes. But I would concur with your assessment of the quality of the MRP chainguides... I used them when I used to downhill race. But that was 13 years ago, so I don't want any e-personas to get the impression that I'm waving around my e-dick for e-cred. I'm slower than molasses, now. But even molasses can drop a chain.

Thanks for everyone's help.

[HellgateBasement]

Bumping an old thread. I bought a new bike and I'm trying to solve one of the headaches with my old Niner RIP 9 before handing it off. I'm running an X9 2x10 drivetrain and lose the chain to the inside of the small ring ALL THE FUCKING TIME. Not even bouncing off in rock gardens so much, but just shifting under even a minimal load. I've replaced the chain and tried to adjust the derailleurs. I've had my LBS try the adjustments. Still nothing.

Is the MRP 2x the way to go? Seems like they're available cheap these days with everybody going 1x.

Thanks.

[Supermoon]

Is it chainring wear, or a bad low limit screw?

[stuckathuntermtn]

Is it chainring wear, or a bad low limit screw?

This

Also, wow, this thread is so old, the OP had an Ellsworth.

[toast2266]

Also, wow, this thread is so old, the OP had an Ellsworth.

Heh.

[summit]

I haven't been dropping. Now I'm dropping. I'll check the limit screw, but I think I'm just riding faster over nasty brake bumps.

Setup:
NW OVAL OneUp 32t 1x (it's not worn out)
Shimano shadow XT w clutch (it works)

What should I consider?
e*thirteen TRS Race SL Chainguide
vs
OneUp Chain Guide

Will those be good enough? Work with the oval? Try something else?

[Anospa]

Get the OneUp. Its simple and easy to install, and less expensive I think.

Check your clutch, mine has loosened up a ton this year.

[toast2266]

OneUp or an MRP AMg.