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Thread: Climbing Stoke

  1. #951
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
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    Finally. Magic wood again. Climbing some links on Body Count 8a/8a+
    V11/v12 (used to be v12 now the stronger kids these days say 8a/v11..sigh.)
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    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  2. #952
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
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    11,791
    burly
    They got a name for the winners in the world

    http://procatinator.com/?cat=80

  3. #953
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    The Sloper for the right Hand im the first pic is super bad and you do 2 1/2 moves with it while squeezing the left heel desperately. Hardest move is the start though.

    After the second pic you still have a 6b/6b+ish high Ball top out to go.(v3?)
    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  4. #954
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    11,791

    Climbing Stoke

    been a month since i climbed inside or out and thought i should test the wonky elbow. itís not doing great but man i had fun today. new spot, single pitch meta sandstone with cool vertical cracks, slab, face, overhangs, and tons of roofs. it was such a great day outside, only one other party around, a dad with two little kids.

    here was a tough roof:

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    the others were roof cracks. failure to be good at jamming was exposed as usual. also, the ethics of long ago were different.

    toit de bean now free at 12b
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    pleasant arete. just clipping bolts. fun fun fun.

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    such a nice day to climb.

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    great region to be in, shawinigan.
    They got a name for the winners in the world

    http://procatinator.com/?cat=80

  5. #955
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
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    Last Best City in the Last Best Place
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    RIP Paul Nelson. I did not know who he was, but I saw a post about his death on the Evening Sends fb page today, with a link to this story he wrote in 2013 about headpointing Color Blind in the New River Gorge. Worth a read for sure. Interesting perspective.

    The Day I sent Color Blind

  6. #956
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    outer spokanistan
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    4th class traverse to the lings and rockies ....
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    fantastic formations!
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    the bite was slow ....
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    "we all do dumb shit when we're fucked up"
    mike tyson

  7. #957
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    outer spokanistan
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    I was looking for someplace that fit my style of climbing:
    single pitch, easy/moderate, rope solo lead/TR
    Stone Hill did not disappoint!
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    these lines caught my eye
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    and these
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    and these
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    .
    the horizontal seams, shallow cracks and dishes reminded me of icicle creek canyon
    the sport climbs are superb, the trad is burly, many climbs are mixed
    most crags are 60-70 feet from the highway. don't fret, there's not much traffic
    I stuck to the KISS principle being my first trip, can't wait to return
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    .
    broke out the ballets for some crack attack
    .
    "we all do dumb shit when we're fucked up"
    mike tyson

  8. #958
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    11,791
    no pad, no bug repellent, no problem!

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    actually i was too scared to break an ankle doing anything harder than v0. but i was still stoked!
    They got a name for the winners in the world

    http://procatinator.com/?cat=80

  9. #959
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Last Best City in the Last Best Place
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    Quote Originally Posted by romeo tango View Post
    I was looking for someplace that fit my style of climbing:
    single pitch, easy/moderate, rope solo lead/TR
    Stone Hill did not disappoint!.
    Cool man, I used to climb at that place. Did you get on Room with a View?

  10. #960
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    outer spokanistan
    Posts
    400
    Quote Originally Posted by yeahman View Post
    .... Room with a View?
    .
    unfortunately not. I did watch a guy work the exit roof.
    My guidebook is 26 years old, many of the routes aren't in it
    The only ones I can say for sure I climbed were Clark's Nutcracker, Fantasy Land
    and the Lizard Slab
    The grades are old-school stout!

    .
    "we all do dumb shit when we're fucked up"
    mike tyson

  11. #961
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
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    My daughter following bare foot Charles example In bleau.Name:  Screenshot_20210802-075309_Video%20Player.jpeg
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    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

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