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Thread: Climbing Stoke

  1. #301
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    More ticks from Lover's Leap (East Crack and Bear's Reach).



    The thing about climbing, as someone who started last year at age 40, is that it's so damn humbling. I keep expecting things to get easier and that my trajectory through climbing grades will be steady and linear only to get my ass consistently kicked. It's part of the fun I suppose.

  2. #302
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    Quote Originally Posted by AKbruin View Post
    More ticks from Lover's Leap (East Crack and Bear's Reach).



    The thing about climbing, as someone who started last year at age 40, is that it's so damn humbling. I keep expecting things to get easier and that my trajectory through climbing grades will be steady and linear only to get my ass consistently kicked. It's part of the fun I suppose.
    Actually it only gets worse. When my limit was 5.12 b/c and I had given 4 burns, I could not do a 5.11c/d as a fun last route of the day. When I started doing 5.13c/d I could do a 5.12d as last route of the day to chill out.

    In bouldering it's even worse. V4 and v5 feel pretty much similar but the difference between v9 and v10 is a whole dimension. And I my v14 buddy tells me it only gets worse the higher you go. He can do v13 in a few sessions but needs months for a single v14 that suits him.


    Sent from my SM-G930F using TGR Forums mobile app
    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  3. #303
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    Sep 2008
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    I climb with a guy that started at 40. He's now 53 and taking down 12+ on trips to Rifle, the Red, Potrero Chico, Vinales, and BC. I don't think he has ever found things to be easy either, but he trains hard and continues to inch toward 5.13. Make the time to get better and not excuses, I guess. Certainly a lesson I should learn if I ever want to get off my v6 plateau.
    .....I hope you know that this will go down on your permanent record

    http://procatinator.com/?cat=80

  4. #304
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    Jun 2006
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    It sucks getting old. It is still possible to do things at a high level, it just takes more time, dedication and commitment, none of which I have. I am content at climbing at a lower level and just enjoy being out for a day moving on the rock. I no longer need to prove anything and leave the posturing and chest thumping to the young bucks.

    I would rather ski, run, climb, cycle, et al at a moderate level then to spend all my time trying to do any one of them at a high level.

    Keep getting out there F and enjoy the hell out of it, especially with the kids. I just did the Venusian Blind on Temple Crag and had a blast. It was the longest sustained climb I have done. It's only 5.7, but it takes most of the day and is some really nice rock. I felt pretty good, even for an old man. Pics to follow.

    I agree it is a constitutional right for Americans to be assholes...its just too bad that so many take the opportunity...
    iscariot

  5. #305
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    D- Please post a TR on Venusian Blind! That (and a slew of other things) are on my list.

    Anyhow, I'm not super motivated to climb hard grades. I just want to get to the point where I'll be comfortable and confident on the moderate trad/alpine stuff.

  6. #306
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    May 2011
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    Just a few cell phone pics from the last 4 months or so:








  7. #307
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    nice!

    can you tell us the name of the routes? I'm just curious!

  8. #308
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    Sep 2008
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    Had a great time at this little pumpy sport crag on my way back from remote Quebec. Shade, river, and 6-8 bolt bliss of jug haul hero overhanging 5.10s. Closest thing I've ever seen to a gym outside, fun place.
    .....I hope you know that this will go down on your permanent record

    http://procatinator.com/?cat=80

  9. #309
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    Yellow spur in Eldo and the South face of Washington column.

  10. #310
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    May 2017
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    Zurich, Switzerland
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    thank you! Great stuff!

  11. #311
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    First trad leads yesterday on Donner Summit. The approach was terrible.


    Notes: I now understand the need to double up on C4s. Also, I realize it's not fashionable, but I really like tricams (pink and red). They seem easier to place and more confidence inspiring than nuts.

  12. #312
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    Dec 2014
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    Smaller tricams (pink and red) will never leave my rack
    Galibier Design
    crafting technology in service of music

  13. #313
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    Quote Originally Posted by AKbruin View Post
    D- Please post a TR on Venusian Blind! That (and a slew of other things) are on my list.

    Anyhow, I'm not super motivated to climb hard grades. I just want to get to the point where I'll be comfortable and confident on the moderate trad/alpine stuff.
    I can't post the couple of pics I took because this forum's attachment features sucks sweaty donkey balls, and Photobucket sucks even worse.

    Someday I will get around to joining a new photo hosting site. Sorry!

    Venusian Blind was pretty fun...long but a lot of fun, clean climbing. We had to bail on the last pitch due to weather. Summit arete and lightening are not a good combinations

    I agree it is a constitutional right for Americans to be assholes...its just too bad that so many take the opportunity...
    iscariot

  14. #314
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    Quote Originally Posted by AKbruin View Post
    First trad leads yesterday on Donner Summit. The approach was terrible.


    Notes: I now understand the need to double up on C4s. Also, I realize it's not fashionable, but I really like tricams (pink and red). They seem easier to place and more confidence inspiring than nuts.
    Nice! School house rock? The missus and I did kindergarten crack years ago as one of our first trad leads.

    I hear you on tricams, I'd use a tricam first if the placement was right. My weird gear obsession is offset friends. Nearly always find a placement for them.

  15. #315
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    Dec 2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flounder View Post
    Nice! School house rock? The missus and I did kindergarten crack years ago as one of our first trad leads.

    I hear you on tricams, I'd use a tricam first if the placement was right. My weird gear obsession is offset friends. Nearly always find a placement for them.
    Yes, indeed. Warmed up on Kindergarten Crack and then did Junior High.

  16. #316
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    Jun 2006
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    Pink tricam is a classic. There's a reason you like those small ones. Just don't set it too hard or your follower with swing it at your nuts at the next belay.
    Quote Originally Posted by Ernest_Hemingway View Post
    I realize there is not much hope for a bullfighting forum. I understand that most of you would prefer to discuss the ingredients of jacket fabrics than the ingredients of a brave man. I know nothing of the former. But the latter is made of courage, and skill, and grace in the presence of the possibility of death. If someone could make a jacket of those three things it would no doubt be the most popular and prized item in all of your closets.

  17. #317
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    Sep 2008
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    Sounds like you guys are set for the gunks.
    .....I hope you know that this will go down on your permanent record

    http://procatinator.com/?cat=80

  18. #318
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    Sep 2008
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    These two boulders are parked next to my Airbnb on a new dirt road north of montreal. I tried to put up a route on the left arręte but chickened out without a partner or pad. Certainly potential on all sides with routes of almost 20'.
    .....I hope you know that this will go down on your permanent record

    http://procatinator.com/?cat=80

  19. #319
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    Aug 2005
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    in the brew room
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    ZZZ on the East Ridge of Buck Mt, GTNP.

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  20. #320
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    Mt. Challenger - NCNP
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  21. #321
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    It's Full of Stars....
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bronco View Post
    Mt. Challenger - NCNP
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    SWEET.
    What we have here is an intelligence failure. You may be familiar with staring directly at that when shaving. .
    -Ottime

  22. #322
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
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    The bottom of LCC
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    Not sure if this technically counts as "climbing" but it was kind of my intro to it. Never climbed, know almost 0 about it but decided that I'm going to learn it this fall. Still need to pick up some shoes and my buddy is gonna give me a harness. If anyone around SLC wants to get out let me know.

    South ridge of Superior dawn patrol. Such a nice way to start the day.

  23. #323
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    Oct 2003
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    slc
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    5th class scrambling definitely counts and the south ridge of Superior is always good stoke.

  24. #324
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    Dec 2010
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    Helltown, MT
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    1,467
    I'd say if you can fall and die, it's climbing. Looks nice up there.

    And Bronco, good job on Mt. Challenger!

  25. #325
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    Oct 2007
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    JH/AK/Los Andes
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    Few from the past few days of work.




    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using TGR Forums mobile app
    "The idea wasnt for me, that I would be the only one that would ever do this. My idea was that everybody should be doing this. At the time nobody was, but this was something thats too much fun to pass up." -Briggs
    Quote Originally Posted by LeeLau View Post
    Wear your climbing harness. Attach a big anodized locker to your belay loop so its in prime position to hit your nuts. Double russian Ti icescrews on your side loops positioned for maximal anal rape when you sit down. Then everyone will know your radness
    More stoke, less shit.

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