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Thread: Climbing Stoke

  1. #1051
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    outer spokanistan
    Posts
    1,007
    .
    sorry for the late notice ....
    let's climb/camp (dirty fucking) Frenchman Coulee
    this weekend.

    i rope solo Rabbit Hole,
    5.0 boy scout routes NW side of Feathers
    red truck thing
    i wont be hard to miss

    stop and ask for change

    bring some beer too
    .
    "we all do dumb shit when we're fucked up"
    mike tyson

  2. #1052
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    outer spokanistan
    Posts
    1,007
    .
    apparently i have been underestimating the risks associated with walking through the campground

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    "we all do dumb shit when we're fucked up"
    mike tyson

  3. #1053
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Geopolis
    Posts
    16,083
    i was at a pretty established crag today. my buddy who can really smell an FA says something about taking a walk and grabs his rope, anchor kit, micro trax and brushes. he comes back a while later to ask for a belay, he’d spent some time in the woods cleaning up a line. the line isn’t long but it was real - overhanging and fist to baggy fists. very cool. i really need to up my crack game at some point. i suggested Endorance for a name because of the length and this damn ewok forest we shwacked through, but i don’t think that will stick.

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    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

  4. #1054
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    in the brew room
    Posts
    2,344
    youngest getting his (Carol's) crack on at the city last wknd.

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  5. #1055
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    outer spokanistan
    Posts
    1,007
    .
    Moon and Moffatt reflecting on the birth of british sport climbing

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zeqI9axxrco


    .
    "we all do dumb shit when we're fucked up"
    mike tyson

  6. #1056
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    19,201
    One of the best decisions of my life was saving for a set of hex's, a rope, runners that I hand tied from reading books, nuts and running away on weekends with my best friend's dad and hanging out almost permanently at the gunks and cutting my chops and getting a free ride with the ramons playing from his dad's car, and an ice cream afterwards. I came home with knowledge, fitness, and a balanced perspective of what a good life could be. I was 9. And it never stopped. I led my first climb that year, a descent route, and that set the bar for the biggest smile I've ever had going forward. I don't think I got some ridgid friend and did the horizontal gunks tie off till I was 13. By then, I was confident whipping off of gunks 5.9.
    Is it radix panax notoginseng? - splat
    This is like hanging yourself but the rope breaks. - DTM
    Dude Listen to mtm. He's a marriage counselor at burning man. - subtle plague

  7. #1057
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    15' from MT
    Posts
    405
    Gotta love how climbing sets you up for coo shit later in life! Moon's Agincourt is always a good story.

  8. #1058
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    outer spokanistan
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    1,007
    5.13 in EBs
    impresses me more than
    5.15 in Miuras

    .
    "we all do dumb shit when we're fucked up"
    mike tyson

  9. #1059
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    15' from MT
    Posts
    405
    Tried a 13 when I got comfy on 12s, not even close and they were of similar styles....jailhouse/rifle style. WTF is even a 15? I hear ya on EBs. Got some given to me when I started and thought they were ok until I got Firés. Gave the EBs to a buddy who tried wearing them casually...what a kook!

  10. #1060
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Ventura Highway in the Sunshine
    Posts
    22,431
    My first climbing shoes were PA's before EB's were around. The step up to EB's was life changing. Sticky rubber is several notches above that.

    I agree it is a constitutional right for Americans to be assholes...its just too bad that so many take the opportunity...
    iscariot

  11. #1061
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Northern BC
    Posts
    2,596
    Quote Originally Posted by criscam View Post
    youngest getting his (Carol's) crack on at the city last wknd.

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    Well done dad (and kiddo).

  12. #1062
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    outer spokanistan
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    1,007
    defying gravity
    Minnihaha
    Spokane
    .

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    .
    "we all do dumb shit when we're fucked up"
    mike tyson

  13. #1063
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Last Best City in the Last Best Place
    Posts
    7,268
    Crazy rockslide off Hallett Peak in RMNP yesterday. Probably affect a lot of the bouldering in Chaos Canyon but who knows.

    https://www.tetongravity.com/story/n...wovJQ7ZYejQmvc

  14. #1064
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Geopolis
    Posts
    16,083
    checked out this new 10 my buddy bolted. after my onsight he asked me if i minded if he lead rope soloed it.

    i’ll stick with belayers

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    beauty of summer day, bugs are dying down and the blueberries are popping

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    nice to finally get a day climbing in the belle province
    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

  15. #1065
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Geopolis
    Posts
    16,083
    How's magic wood looking, SP?
    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

  16. #1066
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    closer
    Posts
    5,668
    Decent. But I've been to the silvretta because it's been hot more often than not.

    I ticked krieger des lichts ( in this vid, not my vid though)
    https://27crags.com/videos/26119


    This weekend should be ok. Still a tad warm but doable. No idea crowd wise. I've only been once this year.

    This weekend I was in the murgtal for a qick session on sunday to finish of some leftovers between correcting class Tests for 12 hours on sat and sunday afternoon. Nice climb.
    I maay go this weekend but not likely I still have Tests lieing around.
    (Not my vid)
    https://27crags.com/videos/33272


    Are you headed to the wood?
    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  17. #1067
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Nhampshire
    Posts
    7,761
    Led my first sport routes this weekend. 2 5.8's and a 5.7. Super easy stuff, but still psyched to finally do some leading and get out.
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  18. #1068
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
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    Geopolis
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    nice, is that rumney?
    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

  19. #1069
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Nhampshire
    Posts
    7,761
    Yep. Only did 3 routes as my friend had never been, so had to take him on the tour from parking lot all the way to Waimea and Jimmy Cliff.

  20. #1070
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Ventura Highway in the Sunshine
    Posts
    22,431
    Not much of an image, but it was fun to be out moving on rock.

    At Crystal Crag near Mammoth last month. Three of us on the climb, so short pitched it and I led two of the four pitches. I am getting too old for this, but still fun if only a 5.7.

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    You can't really appreciate it in the picture, but that is all pure white quartz. Pretty fricking amazing.

    I agree it is a constitutional right for Americans to be assholes...its just too bad that so many take the opportunity...
    iscariot

  21. #1071
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Geopolis
    Posts
    16,083
    Marcel Remy just passed away, he was killing it until his passing at 99!



    If I can flail my way up some shit like him or Fred, hell, if I can just make it that long I'll be stoked.

    rip, marcel.

    https://gripped.com/news/legendary-c...my-dies-at-99/
    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

  22. #1072
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    outer spokanistan
    Posts
    1,007
    back from roaming the Boulder Batholith/Homestake Pass, Butte MT.
    thousands of boulders and free camping
    sorry, no action shots, i was solo ....

    au revoir Marcel
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  23. #1073
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    SLC, Utah
    Posts
    4,281
    really digging all of the stoke here! this place rocks.

    hutash, that looks like WILD rock. so cool! and honestly i'm mega stoked on older mags climbing.

    romeo, i had no idea that there was that much rock up there. what are grades like?

    and, RIP marcel

    ---
    did some cool climbing up little cottonwood, here my buddy takes the sharp end on a brilliantly cool 5.11 pitch, 4 pitches off the deck


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    can't fix these goddamn sideways photos, but here i am on a spicy 5.8 slab. character building.

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    and another sideways special, onsighting an earlier 5.10+ pitch

    climbed a newer route on mount ogden (my home crag i guess), found it to be more "rocks stuck together with dirt" then actual rock climbing. no thanks. beautiful views though - here was one of the few interesting parts, an off route traverse on good rock

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    this was one of the best pieces on one of our pitches - i wish i was kidding. not hard climbing, but tons of garbage rock, and no opportunities for gear.

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    thank god for totems

  24. #1074
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Nhampshire
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    7,761
    Nice! Except for the gear placements.
    Reminds me a bit of whitehorse slabs - https://www.mountainproject.com/area...9571/the-slabs

  25. #1075
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    outer spokanistan
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    seems like most faces were V2/V3
    the slopey overhangs much harder
    .
    "we all do dumb shit when we're fucked up"
    mike tyson

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