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Thread: Climbing Stoke

  1. #251
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    Thanks, guys. I ended up with the Mythos. I'm about a 12 in street shoes but got the 10 1/2, which is snug but was comfortable enough yesterday for 30-45 minutes at a time. They were a little pricey but seem like a good all-arounder for a new climber and a decent shoe to have in an potential climbing-shoe quiver.

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  2. #252
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    Apr 2013
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    We climbed liberty crack (V 5.10 C2F 1200') a couple weeks ago.

    Highly recommended climb! Washington Pass has great alpine rock climbing!

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    Trout Creek is also a great place to climb (cracks)

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  3. #253
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    Sep 2008
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    damn dude, that is a really nice crack. wish i didn't suck at them so bad, i need to get a book or the wide boyz training lab or something.
    .....I hope you know that this will go down on your permanent record

    http://procatinator.com/?cat=80

  4. #254
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    Jun 2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by AKbruin View Post
    Thanks, guys. I ended up with the Mythos. I'm about a 12 in street shoes but got the 10 1/2, which is snug but was comfortable enough yesterday for 30-45 minutes at a time. They were a little pricey but seem like a good all-arounder for a new climber and a decent shoe to have in an potential climbing-shoe quiver.

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    Great you are getting out more, give me a shout anytime you want to do some things on the east side. As for shoes, comfort is king for long trad routes, especially at the level you (or I) are climb at. I bought some nice shoes for sport climbing while in Italy since I didn't bring my rock shoes (it was a ski trip that morphed into some Italian limestone sport climbing), and while the shoes were great, my feet were miserable. I love my lace up 5.10's for all day trad routes. I had to slip the heel off at each belay in Italy, which makes me nervous since we were right above the Mediterranean Sea, and a dropped shoe would have been washed way.

    I agree it is a constitutional right for Americans to be assholes...its just too bad that so many take the opportunity...
    iscariot

  5. #255
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    Dec 2006
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    Did my first multi-pitch trad climb yesterday. Surrealistic Pillar (5.7, 270') to Corrugation Corner (5.7, 300') at Lover's Leap.

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  6. #256
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    Jan 2009
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    Boulder/Tetons
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    Climbing Stoke

    Lovers leap is great. Love The Line.

    Took my 9 yr old twins on their first multipitch in eldo yesterday:

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  7. #257
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    Quote Originally Posted by AKbruin View Post
    Did my first multi-pitch trad climb yesterday. Surrealistic Pillar (5.7, 270') to Corrugation Corner (5.7, 300') at Lover's Leap.

    Excellent, and a well deserved reward.


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    I never climbed at Lover's...didn't realize there were routes that long.
    Last edited by hutash; 11-16-2016 at 11:11 AM.

    I agree it is a constitutional right for Americans to be assholes...its just too bad that so many take the opportunity...
    iscariot

  8. #258
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    Jun 2006
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    My nephew has just started climbing and has become somewhat of a gym rat, and even built a home wall. He asked me to take him out for his first time on real rock and got spanked pretty good. "Where are all the holds?" I told him he wasn't in the gym anymore with color coded climbs. After a couple tries he got the hang of it pretty well and was totally stoked on real rock. So, I couple months later he asks me to take him out again. He had been leading a few gym route and wanted to try it on rock.

    I had him follow me on a couple of easy routes, then handed him the quick draws at let him loose. This is Echo Cliffs in the Santa Monica Montains.

    This was his first lead, and he flashed it. 5.7 I believe


    He led a few more single pitch sports routes 5.6 to 5.8 with no problems.


    A couple weeks later I get a text that he is going out for the first time on his own and wants a few pages of my guide book copied for him. I get a text back the next day that he ticked a bunch of 5.7-5.8 routes but did a 10a as well, so he is super stoked.


    The little fucker will be out climbing me in no time (if he isn't already...ahhh! to be 16 again.)

    And just to show it is never too late, he is my 50ish wife cleaning a 5.7 route. She started climbing a couple of years ago.


    Now my nephew, and wife are so stoked on climbing that we are booked for the Grand in August (we will see the total solar eclipse from high camp.)

    Note to AKBruin, still openings on that date if you want to join us (Chad is going as well.)

    I agree it is a constitutional right for Americans to be assholes...its just too bad that so many take the opportunity...
    iscariot

  9. #259
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    Dec 2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by christoweber View Post
    Took my 9 yr old twins on their first multipitch in eldo yesterday
    Very cool. I'm curious as to how that worked. Did they belay you while you lead climbed? Or did you basically solo each pitch and then belay the kids?

    Quote Originally Posted by hutash View Post
    I never climbed at Lover's...didn't realize there were routes that long.
    I've only been climbing since July and all of it has been around Tahoe, but I get the sense that Lover's Leap is great. I really dug the horizontal dikes that characterize the place. Not my picture, but here is a Mountain Project photo from the second pitch of Surrealistic Pillar that shows how cool the dikes are:

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    Quote Originally Posted by hutash View Post
    Now my nephew, and wife are so stoked on climbing that we are booked for the Grand in August (we will see the total solar eclipse from high camp.)

    Note to AKBruin, still openings on that date if you want to join us (Chad is going as well.)
    Nice job, D! I should make an effort to get the missus out, but it'd be the blind leading the blind at this point.

    Man, I'd really love to do the Grand, but I want to do it as a ski descent (maybe through Exum). In fact, it's part of the reason I started climbing this summer. But if you ever want to do an alpine moderate in the Eastern Sierra, Yosemite, or around Tahoe, let me know!

  10. #260
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    Aug 2006
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    I climbed corrugation corner a bunch of years ago. Sitting into the harness for the last belay station is awesome. Super fun and airy moderate climb.

  11. #261
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    Two ways to get your wife out climbing...hire a guide and do some easy multi-pitch routes and leave the instruction, and rigging up to him/her (which is what I did for he first big climb), or set a top rope and play on some easy pitches and let her find her way (which I have done several times since, with her and other new/inexperienced climbers.)

    I have always dreamed of skiing the Grand, but at my age and ability, it will always be just that, a dream. Which is fine, I don't need to ski things that I could die on. If you change your mind and want to join us you are welcome (if there are open spots for those dates.)

    I agree it is a constitutional right for Americans to be assholes...its just too bad that so many take the opportunity...
    iscariot

  12. #262
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    Jan 2009
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    Boulder/Tetons
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    458

    Climbing Stoke

    "Very cool. I'm curious as to how that worked. Did they belay you while you lead climbed? Or did you basically solo each pitch and then belay the kids?"


    I soloed it all. I had them on one rope which was a bad idea--next time I'll use two. Second twin got creative and went slightly off route and got scared. She was all smiles thankfully when I helped her out and got her back on route. Definitely needed to do some rescue rope work that could have been avoided. Fun adventure, smiles all around at the end.

    Just got back from red rocks and some fun climbs


    For planning on the grand, avoid the Owen Spaulding if you can. And if you can move relatively fast, do the less crowded petzoldt ridge. Just about as good as the complete exum and way fewer people.Name:  ImageUploadedByTGR Forums1480436563.255755.jpg
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  13. #263
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    Oct 2007
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    Ice season kicked off last weekend in NH.

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  14. #264
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    Beauty, still a little slow here in the west.

    I agree it is a constitutional right for Americans to be assholes...its just too bad that so many take the opportunity...
    iscariot

  15. #265
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
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    9,302

    Climbing Stoke

    Watched a buddy wirebrush this nasty thin crack then send it on gear on his second try, five hours ago; he had been trying to take it down since last summer. Still super stoked! 12a! So rad!!!

    Mosquitos were out in force though and black flies are coming... might be my last check in here for another month!

    Chris Bennels - I saw some pro post pics of Trout Creek on IG this week, damn does that place still look nice to me.

    Had a phone pic:
    .....I hope you know that this will go down on your permanent record

    http://procatinator.com/?cat=80

  16. #266
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    Let's play name that climb. Gotta be a classic though.
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  17. #267
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    Sep 2008
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    Something in Joshua Tree?

    This is a gimmee:

    .....I hope you know that this will go down on your permanent record

    http://procatinator.com/?cat=80

  18. #268
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
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    124
    Loose lady

  19. #269
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    Quote Originally Posted by Idyllwild View Post
    Loose lady
    Pinched Rib, but good try. Such a classic right in the Hidden Valley campground at Josh. Everybody turns their body to the right and tries to lay back the dike, but it's easier to turn left and climb it more or less straight on.

    ML242, that looks like a classic crack, but no idea what it is. Something in the Southeast?
    Last edited by yeahman; 05-07-2017 at 06:11 PM.

  20. #270
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    Feb 2013
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    124
    Damn! So close

  21. #271
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    Oct 2007
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    JH/AK/Los Andes
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    Quote Originally Posted by yeahman View Post
    Let's play name that climb. Gotta be a classic though.
    "The idea wasnt for me, that I would be the only one that would ever do this. My idea was that everybody should be doing this. At the time nobody was, but this was something thats too much fun to pass up." -Briggs
    Quote Originally Posted by LeeLau View Post
    Wear your climbing harness. Attach a big anodized locker to your belay loop so its in prime position to hit your nuts. Double russian Ti icescrews on your side loops positioned for maximal anal rape when you sit down. Then everyone will know your radness
    More stoke, less shit.

  22. #272
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    Sep 2010
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    ^^No idea, but that looks really, really sweet.
    "Alpine rock and steep, deep powder are what I seek, and I will always find solace there." - Bean Bowers

    photos

  23. #273
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    Quote Originally Posted by auvgeek View Post
    ^^No idea, but that looks really, really sweet.
    +1

  24. #274
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    May 2004
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    Fort Front Range
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    Quote Originally Posted by ml242 View Post
    Watched a buddy wirebrush this nasty thin crack then send it on gear on his second try, five hours ago; he had been trying to take it down since last summer. Still super stoked! 12a! So rad!!!

    Mosquitos were out in force though and black flies are coming... might be my last check in here for another month!

    Chris Bennels - I saw some pro post pics of Trout Creek on IG this week, damn does that place still look nice to me.

    Had a phone pic:
    Is that Armonk?
    In with the 9.

  25. #275
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by berko View Post
    Is that Armonk?
    No, that's a short and sweet climb at Mont Rigaud called 'What About Bob?'.

    have you climbed at Armonk recently? I'll be passing through that area but heard there might be access issues?
    .....I hope you know that this will go down on your permanent record

    http://procatinator.com/?cat=80

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