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Thread: Climbing Stoke

  1. #976
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
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    bye bye closed cliff
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    hello cliff unclimbed since the 70’s

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    i thought the season was over, great bonus day!

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    They got a name for the winners in the world

    http://procatinator.com/?cat=80

  2. #977
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    Sep 2008
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    Rain all weekend but i got to crack Downward Bound. This guy rules and the Harding illustrations absolutely destroy freedom of the hills.

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    They got a name for the winners in the world

    http://procatinator.com/?cat=80

  3. #978
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    369


    Jimmy Chin

  4. #979
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    SLC, Utah
    Posts
    2,602
    thanks ml242 for all the awesome stoke. that harding illustration is a fucking trip, but what are they drinking in those hammocks?? wine??

    from yesterday - the zion curtain pitch on arm & hammer. 90 feet of .5inch to 2 inch thick, laser cut flake. all time.

    Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk

  5. #980
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
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    in the brew room
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    2,000
    ^^^ nice!!!


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  6. #981
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
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    12,241
    Maybe someone like Old Goat could identify the mystery 70's juice. Gotta be like a blue nun competitor, but it's before my time.

    I am thinking about taking a trip down south in April to Nashville -- usually my favorite month to ski -- and would take a day to explore some southern rock. Shortoff is too far, does anyone have opinions about where in Tennessee I might want to go to get on a classic for the first time? Or do I go bouldering in Chatt? Obviously it's pretty early and I don't have tickets yet, but a worthwhile climb might push it over the top. Seems like Shortoff is too far...
    They got a name for the winners in the world

    http://procatinator.com/?cat=80

  7. #982
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    369
    Quote Originally Posted by ml242 View Post
    Rain all weekend but i got to crack Downward Bound. This guy rules and the Harding illustrations absolutely destroy freedom of the hills.

    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	392598
    A few words about Harding, wine, climbing, life, etc.

    And, more recently, this...


  8. #983
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
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    12,241

    Climbing Stoke

    scouting today, found this new dead vertical cliff! sike, one anchor at the top.

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    plein-air wolf? was pretty high ball, reminded me
    of that line in utah but not as bad ass. maybe a v5ish problem id definitely bring shoes back for.

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    found this guy with a torch drying off his project.

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    lots and lots of boulders….
    They got a name for the winners in the world

    http://procatinator.com/?cat=80

  9. #984
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    SLC, Utah
    Posts
    2,602
    the snow sucks but at least we have the desert still.

    here's me onsighting a new 10 at Pine Creek in the San Rafael Swell. super cool movement - up a chimney to an overhanging slot to a double crack system through a bulge. sustained and super fun!!

    Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk

  10. #985
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Ogden
    Posts
    7,167
    Quote Originally Posted by tgapp View Post
    the snow sucks but at least we have the desert still.

    here's me onsighting a new 10 at Pine Creek in the San Rafael Swell. super cool movement - up a chimney to an overhanging slot to a double crack system through a bulge. sustained and super fun!!

    Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk
    Nice. Is that some kind of rope solo system going on there?

  11. #986
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    SLC, Utah
    Posts
    2,602
    Quote Originally Posted by zion zig zag View Post
    Nice. Is that some kind of rope solo system going on there?
    Ha, no. The route had so much drag (literally a rope eating channel of death) that before every crux I would yard up 10 feet of slack from a rest so that I could punch it and climb. I didn't even see the loop of slack (right above that rope eating channel) when I posted that pic, but it makes sense. Not surprised.

    Luckily the falls would have been safe (but dramatic).

    Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk

  12. #987
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    closer
    Posts
    3,910
    Quote Originally Posted by ml242 View Post
    scouting today, found this new dead vertical cliff! sike, one anchor at the top.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_4202.jpg 
Views:	44 
Size:	2.55 MB 
ID:	393460

    plein-air wolf? was pretty high ball, reminded me
    of that line in utah but not as bad ass. maybe a v5ish problem id definitely bring shoes back for.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_4193.jpg 
Views:	44 
Size:	2.55 MB 
ID:	393461

    found this guy with a torch drying off his project.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	E7DFD7AE-6010-45F0-A1DC-6F139B7020A7-49205-000008A0B06F14C0.jpg 
Views:	47 
Size:	1.17 MB 
ID:	393462

    lots and lots of boulders….
    Uh oh.... FA Land!
    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  13. #988
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Ogden
    Posts
    7,167
    Quote Originally Posted by tgapp View Post
    Ha, no. The route had so much drag (literally a rope eating channel of death) that before every crux I would yard up 10 feet of slack from a rest so that I could punch it and climb. I didn't even see the loop of slack (right above that rope eating channel) when I posted that pic, but it makes sense. Not surprised.

    Luckily the falls would have been safe (but dramatic).

    Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk
    Ah, makes sense.

  14. #989
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    SLC, Utah
    Posts
    2,602
    Name:  fin arete.jpg
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    THE FIN ARETE!!

    i'm honestly a little embarrassed to admit that it took me so long to get on this SLC classic slab route. put up in 1978 on lead, on sight, ground up by the Smoot brothers (age 17 and 18), this still feels like a rite of passage 40+ years on. we started at the base of the formation and linked 5 pitches into the base of the fin arete, climbing somewhat sustained 5.9 and 5.9+ slab to the crux 10b slab (pictured above). three pitches up the fin arete (including a dramatic, final160' 5.7 pitch with a single bolt for gear) , and then we finished on a final, 9th pitch called "shock trauma" - one of the best 5.10 slab pitches i've climbed anywhere in my life (though i fell at the crux on my onsight attempt!)

    all in all, one of my very best days climbing in little cottonwood.

  15. #990
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    12,241
    Very cool. Did you bring the #8 hex?

    They got a name for the winners in the world

    http://procatinator.com/?cat=80

  16. #991
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    SLC, Utah
    Posts
    2,602
    Quote Originally Posted by ml242 View Post
    Very cool. Did you bring the #8 hex?

    ha, i should have. belays are slightly different than marked on the original topo; there is now a bolted belay right at the base of what is marked 5.8 on that topo. from there to the tied off chicken head is a solid 40' of 5.7; thrilling stuff.

    and yeah, two teenagers bolted that on lead, on sight, ground up. fucking nuts. note the 20 or so feet of 5.10 climbing to get to the first bolt on p2.

    mad props.

    now i just need to get brave enough to get on the dorsal fin.

  17. #992
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    slc
    Posts
    14,937
    I get a little nauseous just thinking about sandbagged old school-rated 10b LCC slab. Nice work!

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