Climbing Stoke

[singlecross]

Oldest kid just home from college where they ran the climbing wall… so we re-rigged for a family climbing night in our living room…

[yeahman]

Sweet! Nothing like a little buildering.

I actually took the worst groundfall of my climbing career buildering. Happened at 2 a.m. in downtown Missoula...nuff said.

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[Trackhead]

Now you need some gym holds on the overhanging ceiling....

[Trackhead]

Sweet! Nothing like a little buildering.

I actually took the worst groundfall of my climbing career buildering. Happened at 2 a.m. in downtown Missoula...nuff said.

Funny how common that is.....

[tellybele]

Sweet! Nothing like a little buildering.

I actually took the worst groundfall of my climbing career buildering. Happened at 2 a.m. in downtown Missoula...nuff said.

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Was that the corner behind the old top hat?

[yeahman]

Was that the corner behind the old top hat?

No, it was the front of what used to be Connie's. There was a wall of protruding rocks. Climbed the rocks to the roof but slipped when I grabbed the metal flashing. Fell and splatted on the sidewalk. Big crowd of closing-time revelers were hanging around so I had to act like it was no big deal. Rode my bike home and passed out. Woke up a few hours later with a throbbing wrist and went to the St. Pat's ER. Turned out my wrist was broken.

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[romeo tango]

.
Connie's ....
haven't heard that place mentioned
in decades
.

[yeahman]

.
Connie's ....
haven't heard that place mentioned
in decades
.

Late '80s were the Golden Years in Missoula. And when sport climbing caught on we were the first crew with a Bosch to be bolting up all the prime lines.

[Climber Joe]

Great video. I just recently found out about Ed Webster passing back in November. I met him years ago -- incredibly nice guy. Great vision as a climber -- I've climbed a bunch of his routes in Colorado and Utah, and they're all classics.

The photo is of me climbing Supercrack in the early 1990s. While leading it, I was thinking of Earl Wiggins placing just a handful of Hexes during the first ascent of this pitch.

Attachment 448390

Supercrack is a perfect hand jam for me. So fun.

[andy m]

You must have pretty big hands -- I have large hands, and I had to do cupped hand jams most of the way, and I had to torque my jams some of the time, especially when placing pro. My tape didn't go high enough on one wrist, and I have a scar on that wrist from torquing the wrist against the edge of the crack. Afterwards, I led Incredible Hand Crack (a perfect hand jam for me), and it felt like 5.8 in comparison to Luxury Liner.

[Climber Joe]

You must have pretty big hands -- I have large hands, and I had to do cupped hand jams most of the way, and I had to torque my jams some of the time, especially when placing pro. My tape didn't go high enough on one wrist, and I have a scar on that wrist from torquing the wrist against the edge of the crack. Afterwards, I led Incredible Hand Crack (a perfect hand jam for me), and it felt like 5.8 in comparison to Luxury Liner.

Yeah so incredible hand crack, I can get all 4 fingers and half my palm in, but none of my thumb, so it’s like weird off fingers for me. I think the flair through the horizontal section was actually the easiest, cuz I could actually almost get my thumb in there. Or at least once it was a little flared I felt better.

[ex-powderbroker]

all hell is about to break loose with blackflies so i got a last day in to get spanked on this and send something clean i’d been looking to for awhile.







perfect temps, birdsong, and a breeze. so good.

[romeo tango]

.
nice run out

.

[ex-powderbroker]

it’s easy until those bolts on the slab and then wildly insecure. i’ve done it clean in the past but you add a few degrees under the sun and it feels impossible, fell like five times

[ex-powderbroker]

out of tolerance, 11a, mont rigaud.



basically the moves after clipping the last bolt are quite insecure and somewhat intimidating. you have to move off the arete to some garbage crimps on poor feet, and anyway, i was not feeling it so i pulled the rope to set up a tr.

on top, that would have meant jumping to this detached pillar and it was very loose up there and definitely sketchy in shoes forget sandals.

so i said fuck it, i can try one more, and if i can’t do it i’ll stick clip my way up or something. i’d never even put a real try together and just grabbed the draw. but on this attempt, i just convinced myself that it was all there, and if i moved quick it would not be a problem, and there i was at the top.

not my hardest send or anything but a cherry on top of a great day with good company.

[subtle plague]

We spent a week in foppiano. Fun area. Beautiful place to stay for free.
Toilets in the boulder!

Nice gneiss. And cool problems.
I loved the compression fridge for V7/8
The dyno was super fun but easy. V1? V2?

[ex-powderbroker]

that’s a weird place for a toilet!

[subtle plague]

that’s a weird place for a toilet!

It's not boulder people oriented. It's a local picnic area basically.

[criscam]

Annual spring trip to the city w a few fams….







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[tgapp]

LOVE the city stoke. fuck dude. I'm so jealous.

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[zion zig zag]

Annual spring trip to the city w a few fams….

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Did you get to Theater of Shadows?

[criscam]

Did you get to Theater of Shadows?

did not. between trying to get 7 kids and 9 adults on the rock and the possibility of pm storms it wasn't in the cards.

[Djongo Unchained]

Enjoying the pics of the big slabbage at the City.

Spent a ton of time there for about a five year stretch in the 90's.
Access was always a little hit or miss.
Blazin hot in high summer too. FKNA, many siestas in a sweltering shady spot.

I got about halfway up an 11c once to retrieve a favored piece, but it was a whipper waiting to happen and I was petrified for the last move.

Always loved camping down by the Sisters zone, away from traffic.

[schuss]

Don't have any pics but great day at Rumney rocking out on 5.7-5.9 in Northwest territories and buffalo pit. The slabby/crack goodness on this guy is just a fucking joy:
https://www.mountainproject.com/rout...nesome-buffalo

You can just dial in how hard you want it to be by which part of the slab/which hands you use.

[ex-powderbroker]

didn’t get out this weekend, i am jealous

Have you been to Merriam Woods? It sounds like the new place to clip bolts somewhat more removed from the crowds than at Rumney.

One of these days I have to do a NH trip