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Thread: Climbing Stoke

  1. #601
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    that last pic makes it look like there's one belayer for the two climbers
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  2. #602
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    i took the pic after leading the left face. climber at right is on TR with a belayer, climber at left is either on a tr or leading on the draws i left. can't remember exactly but two people were definitely belaying.

    ETA: looks like both were TR.

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  3. #603
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    Quote Originally Posted by ml242 View Post

    got some routes in the desert last week. fun stuff.
    Oh shit, not too often you see pics of that spot. Nice.
    It sucks to suck.

  4. #604
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    went home to see my folks and jumped off 87 to show the gf some old stomping grounds.

    tarzan traverse v1:

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  5. #605
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    Being an iphone photo from across the canyon lowers the pic quality, but stoke nonetheless. Paradise Forks, AZ.
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    It sucks to suck.

  6. #606
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  7. #607
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    Sep 2016
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    Summited Mt Washington on 3/22 again this year (First 2019 summit was in January). Much warmer than our January climb with windchill only around -20. Lots of snow though that made progress between Lion Head and Split Rock very slow. About 8 hours car to car.

    With one climb done in winter and one in spring, it seems like this will be the year for climbing Mt Washington once per season.

    But the next objectives are Shasta on skis (May) and Baker North Ridge (July).


  8. #608
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    That looks like an intense Mt. Washington summit!

    Here's a shot I got Monday of a buddy taking a whip.
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    It sucks to suck.

  9. #609
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    Climbing Stoke

    soupy snowy approach still:

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    gf in the john turner classic, bastard:

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    the magical time where you can ski, climb, or hang out without being feasted on by flies, mosquitos, or whatever other pestilence we have here:

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    if you west coast guys donít know about john turner, his routes are deserving enough for this obit:

    http://publications.americanalpinecl...urner-19312014

    sucked to only get one day outside this week, work life balance would be much better at 0/7


    i really like this rock

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  10. #610
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    Jan 2009
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    Back to the land of giant packs and hard labor. And a day 1 core shot...

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  11. #611
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    fkna! was it a new rope?
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  12. #612
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    Fortunately it's a middle-aged fatty I primarily use for new routing. It was tucked under a roof but still managed to take a direct hit from a rather large piece of choss. I had a Freedom-of-the-Hills moment isolating the coreshot and passing the knot during a free hanging rappel. It made me feel like a boss until I realized I couldn't retrieve the rope which now had a knot on each side (biner block at the anchor). I had to lead the pitch at 8PM to avoid leaving the rope of shame on the wall...

    A couple years ago a buddy put a really scary core shot in that very same rope on the very first day I took it out. He was cleaning a leaning pitch, traversed along the lip of a roof to get a piece out, and swung about 6' along the edge when he removed the gear. He started freaking out about the rope being cut so I lowered him as fast as I could. The sheath and 2 of the core strands were cut through... Good thing 68m ropes work pretty well!

  13. #613
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    Took me a couple of weeks but the transition is complete, climbing and biking season has begun.
    Little slice of Verdon:

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    Long pitches of chossy limestone:

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    Maybe that's why it's called Rock Canyon?

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  14. #614
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    yeah man! did you do that in two long pitches?
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  15. #615
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    Quote Originally Posted by ml242 View Post
    yeah man! did you do that in two long pitches?
    Linked it in one, exactly 35m. Good thing the bolts are close together at each crux and you can bump draws otherwise you probably need 20+...

  16. #616
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    so youíre at the chains there in the red shirt?
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  17. #617
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    Quote Originally Posted by ml242 View Post
    so you’re at the chains there in the red shirt?
    There's a good bit of climbing left above, the chains are just below the tree on top of the crag past the series of small roofs. There's an intermediate anchor just below the rood red shirt buddy is pulling.

  18. #618
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    Climbing Stoke

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    looking down the best moderate pitch in vermont.

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    tried to get on the new sport routes at lone point but the lake was about eight feet too high and i forgot my boat.

    nice weekend of slushy bumps, cold lakes, and cragging

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  19. #619
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    spotted by nick after he soloed the 5.6 warmup
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  20. #620
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    Climbing Stoke

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    finally got around to leading this thing.

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    gf was impressed

    (snapped the first pic after the first rap of another party)
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  21. #621
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    ^^Very nice. Looks like awesome exposure.

  22. #622
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    really fun. Ďthe moveí is so committing, it is impossible to believe youíre climbing 5.6. and when you step out, itís like the elevator doors opened to to the outside of a building. absolutely wild. i was pretty happy to get into some shady dihedrals on the ground floor after.
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  23. #623
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    Quote Originally Posted by ml242 View Post
    really fun. ‘the move’ is so committing, it is impossible to believe you’re climbing 5.6. and when you step out, it’s like the elevator doors opened to to the outside of a building. absolutely wild. i was pretty happy to get into some shady dihedrals on the ground floor after.
    Is that the famed High Exposure in the Gunks?

  24. #624
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    yup
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  25. #625
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    Climbing Stoke

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    long trad traverse on a third pitch slab.

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    nice rap to end the day

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    some old junk
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