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Thread: Climbing Stoke

  1. #1201
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Geopolis
    Posts
    15,666
    yeah, pretty pretty pretty good
    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

  2. #1202
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Last Best City in the Last Best Place
    Posts
    6,838
    Just finished reading Katie Brown's memoir Unraveled. If you were a rock climber in the 90s when she was a waif-like 14 year old winning the X games and international competitions, you may find this book as fascinating as I did. I had a hard time putting it down. One of this things I found most interesting was the amount of difficult trad climbing she did in her post-competition years. I guess I'd lost track of her by then. I also have a small connection to her because I worked as the editor of her 2008 instructional/inspirational book Girl on the Rocks. At that time, every interaction I had with her left me somewhat mystified. This book explains a lot about what was going on with her mental health at the time. If you're not aware of who she is, here's a link with a bit of info.

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Katie_Brown_(climber)

    https://www.amazon.com/Unraveled-Cli...=UTF8&qid=&sr=

  3. #1203
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Nhampshire
    Posts
    7,661
    Obligatory "can it please stop fucking raining now"

  4. #1204
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Geopolis
    Posts
    15,666
    super classic line called ochre i led

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    i cleaned this one which is quite nice, beezlebub. here my friends rehearses before his lead.

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    running out of time we moved the anchor to this mega classic trad adventure line on the west face of the aiguille. sounds weird to say about single pitch but you have hard face climbing or an easier dihedral to this cave, followed by an exit in this horizontal crack with no feet. you pull the roof and head across this detached flake to this baggy finger crack that gets wider and wider.

    shot on rappel

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    probably posted this view before from the boulders

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    visiting climbers from magic wood

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    i love the rock here

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    five star half day
    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

  5. #1205
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    179
    Nice looking rock. Your photos made me look up the Aiguille on Mountain Project.

  6. #1206
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Geopolis
    Posts
    15,666
    It's a really nice place. Mostly single pitch trad on anorthosite (basically granite). Some very hard face climbing and some of the only 5.14 trad in the east.

    In other news, "International Climbing Day" tomorrow, free gym for me in the rain (free gym on a rainy day).

    https://www.thenorthface.com/en-us/e...cid=6063d877d0
    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

  7. #1207
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Geopolis
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    15,666
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    my previous 11c project at Rigaud about to spit this guy off. from the ground it doesn’t look steep….
    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

  8. #1208
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Geopolis
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    15,666

    Climbing Stoke

    couple classics today courtesy of john turner

    sceptre

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    bastard

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    started to rain so while we were waiting under the massive roofs of mont king we found some other climbs. this thing led to an anchor where i top roped “gangrene” and obscure late 70’s chosspile i can’t imagine leading on gear. people are nuts.

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    kind of got spanked a bit but for the most part perfect weather and some good mileage working on jams. beats working.

    nice gangrene photo:

    https://www.mountainproject.com/photo/111420915
    Last edited by ex-powderbroker; 08-23-2023 at 07:49 PM.
    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

  9. #1209
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    outer spokanistan
    Posts
    849
    here's a nice TRS i like to climb when i'm feeling saucy!
    the crux is traversing under the roof and engaging the exit crack
    i actually remembered my camera!

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    if you're passing through the idaho panhandle, be aware that the crags at Q'emiln (AKA Post Falls) are closed for the season.
    an 80 acre fire burned through this summer and the closure is for hazard reduction/vegetation recovery.

    another story i heard is that the fire burned close to one of the minor crags and there is concern that the glue-in bolts were compromised, so, the city closed all climbing
    .
    "we all do dumb shit when we're fucked up"
    mike tyson

  10. #1210
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Geopolis
    Posts
    15,666

    Climbing Stoke

    who is ready for ice climbing?



    (not me! …and this video is nuts)
    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

  11. #1211
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Geopolis
    Posts
    15,666
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    good luck to this guy

    En Reprise a Radio-Quebec, 13b
    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

  12. #1212
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Geopolis
    Posts
    15,666

    Climbing Stoke

    got a nice campsite by a small crag in nowheresville with some friends. we left some top ropes up on cracks and hit them after dinner for some laps by headlamp.

    never done that before, great weekend.

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    had to get a shot from a good stance after pulling the roof into this one.

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    about halfway down cleaning. it wasn’t a big cliff except in fun value.
    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

  13. #1213
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Geopolis
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    15,666
    color is coming in

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    did my yearly bouldering after getting beta for Swamp Dog

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    v1 onsight padless ascent

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    got roofied

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    more overhanging crack

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    i could do this every day.

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    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

  14. #1214
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Geopolis
    Posts
    15,666
    forecast says the epic five weeks without rainno bugs perfect temps is going to end soon. got out for half a day.

    the classic Samourai (one of the best single pitch 10s around):

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    Sans Zen (11b if you’re a gecko):

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    Parcimonie (soft 11a i still haven’t sent on lead ):

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    Sunset (not sure of the grade):

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    I guess if it ends I can start skiing but does it have to?
    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

  15. #1215
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    PNW
    Posts
    742
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    Nice weather for slab climbing out in Darrington on Sunday.

  16. #1216
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    Dec 2005
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    15,507

  17. #1217
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Last Best City in the Last Best Place
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    6,838
    ^^They've got their hands full lol.

    Nice climbing pics all.

  18. #1218
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Geopolis
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    15,666

    Climbing Stoke

    tried to do a link up on top rope solo for some cool pitches but my head was really screwed up today. people and dogs at the summit asking me if i was really going down there yadda yadda ruined my vibe plus i think i need to quit social media news and anything that isn’t family, tgr, climbing, or pornography.

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    ended up running into a buddy and even though sunset was in an hour he told me about a newly bolted 3pitch 7.

    we hurried over and it saved the day.

    i cruised it linking the last two pitches with a 70. i was pretty sure two seventies would get us down but we needed another 10-12m, the sun set and hilarity ensued.

    stupid rain and wind this week so basically only the tamaracks are still waiting to go, they’re just getting started. Click image for larger version. 

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    about halfway.

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    yup getting dark

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    dark


    i’m going to miss climbing season. didn’t tick off any big adventures, no projects, nothing this year.

    climbing > wrod
    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

  19. #1219
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    outer spokanistan
    Posts
    849
    roofy
    ledgy
    slabby and
    awkward ....

    Minnihaha has it all!

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    "we all do dumb shit when we're fucked up"
    mike tyson

  20. #1220
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Nhampshire
    Posts
    7,661
    Got 3 trad leads down on lost horizon, then rain skunked the rest of the weekend plans. Anyhow, fun times.
    Appropriately named "stealing candy from a baby"


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  21. #1221
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Geopolis
    Posts
    15,666
    get it before the snow does
    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

  22. #1222
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Tahoe-ish
    Posts
    3,002
    I just returned from 3 solid days at Red Rock with my old alpine partner. Man, or was fun! We just did easy stuff, but a bunch of it. 12 ish pitches per day and solid approaches from 159 to the canyons, and I'm ready for a rest day.Click image for larger version. 

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    ride bikes, climb, ski, travel, cook, work to fund former, repeat.

  23. #1223
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    outer spokanistan
    Posts
    849
    "we all do dumb shit when we're fucked up"
    mike tyson

  24. #1224
    Join Date
    Dec 2020
    Location
    Arroyo Seco
    Posts
    173
    Snuck in a late season alpine rock route today. Perfect conditions, great friends, and a classic line.
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    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  25. #1225
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Geopolis
    Posts
    15,666
    beauty
    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

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