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Thread: Climbing Stoke

  1. #751
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    Dec 2010
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    Boissal you seem like somebody who would enjoy a roadtrip to Blackleaf Canyon in Montana.

  2. #752
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by yeahman View Post
    Boissal you seem like somebody who would enjoy a roadtrip to Blackleaf Canyon in Montana.
    Hot damn, looks like a little slice of Canadian Rockies!

  3. #753
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
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    Geopolis
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    Climbing Stoke

    finally got out (in town)!

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    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

  4. #754
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    SLC burbs
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    Climbing un-stoke, some POS trashlord lit a giant bonfire under the Red Monster boulder at Ibex and obliterated a couple of classic problems. Ju and Blue Flowers are no more, both beautiful problems on great rock which unfortunately exfloliates its outer layer when exposed to hear. Too bad I never got to send either (not for lack of trying).

    Death to the fucktards who go out to the West Desert and see nothing but a wasteland to trash to their hear's content.

    https://gripped.com/routes/classic-i...d-by-bon-fire/

  5. #755
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
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    outer spokanistan
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    fine weather this weekend
    at Frenchman Coulee
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    i was surprised by the campground

    .

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    WA state website said camping was closed
    "we all do dumb shit when we're fucked up"
    mike tyson

  6. #756
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    Planning an exit
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    5,930
    Quote Originally Posted by Boissal View Post
    Climbing un-stoke, some POS trashlord lit a giant bonfire under the Red Monster boulder at Ibex and obliterated a couple of classic problems. Ju and Blue Flowers are no more, both beautiful problems on great rock which unfortunately exfloliates its outer layer when exposed to hear. Too bad I never got to send either (not for lack of trying).

    Death to the fucktards who go out to the West Desert and see nothing but a wasteland to trash to their hear's content.

    https://gripped.com/routes/classic-i...d-by-bon-fire/
    Mother fuckers. Never made it out there but I had hoped to.


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  7. #757
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
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    closer
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    Finally. The new prow. More FAs
    First Pic is the direct version from the juggy sit to the right. 6c /v4

    "Faith no more"

    Second Pic is
    The full line to the prow from the sit via lower juggy rail and exit on prow.
    7a+ /v6
    "And so I watch you from afar"

    I didn't manage to do the king line through the roof because I was too tired. (v7/V8) it ends in the same prow exit where I am in the second Pic. Which is v5 in itself as a stand start (called Killswitch engage).

    The third Pic is the left side of the prow. Start at the same jug as the other boulders traverse the roof and exit via loong throw from jug in lower left of the Pic to higher jug rail. Then you have just done: Manowar! V5 ish.. pretty morpho.

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    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  8. #758
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
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    Geopolis
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    Climbing Stoke

    yes, we are allowed off the island and my ankle can bear weight after a stupid bouldering fall a month ago where i missed the pad.

    so i visited a dreamy new (to me) crag called montagne d’argent. this place is an outdoor climbing gym in the best way and perfect to get the season restarted. 250 routes, mostly single pitch. low 60s, no bugs, a shade tarp? ok. girlfriend is stoked.

    strolled right up to the premier crag 400m from the road and got on the 4 star classic M&M crack (fingers). AMAZING rock quality. Laurentians rock is good anorthosite and this was no exception - excellent little nubs from glaciation and good friction from little crystals but easy on the skin.

    There was also an old school 5.7+ that caught me way off guard. beware the plusses! thought i could send with a normal light rack and find some small pro in the crack but it was all 1,2,3,4. no nuts no microcams not pink tricam (gunks raised heh). oops. note to self: stop sucking at wide hands because back cleaning takes the fun out.

    we did not miss the excellent 10a at the right that went up a small hand crack to one bolt and then finished for some more jams that i really liked and some spooky sport way left that i was glad not to have led cause steep slab is hard. apparently this spot has a slabby steep 14 that has never seen a repeat in 30 years. not gonna be me.

    perhaps the highlight though was getting trounced by this chick who crushed the 12a face climb... i guess the kid can say he climbed 5.12 before he was born.

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    such a nice area. lows in the 40s, gonna light a fire and go night swimming and maybe do it again tomorrow. fuck yea! i missed this shit so much!
    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

  9. #759
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
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    spotted a nice cliff off a dirt road a few days and went in to investigate. from across the valley it looked steep and overhung like a little waimea, so i went to take another look after work today.

    Inspection looked promising so i put the drone up to take a closer look. the eagle is in the air when the owner pulls up to see what we are up to.

    we don’t look like we are from around there. i’m hiding the fact that i’m surveilling his property and have long hair and don’t drive a pickup.

    this is letterkenny country near the border of ontario.

    anyway the guy says we can go have a look if we want to hike it and is super nice but no climbing; doesn’t want the liability.

    really had a nice time up there. the cliff has never seen a hammer or cam. all kinds of birds on display, turkeys marching across the field, swallows buzzing.

    am i a dick if i go back in a few months to show him some insurance and see if we can have at it? bake some cookies? or just find some other shit cause who cares about this little pink granite rock in the middle of nowhere?



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    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

  10. #760
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Ventura Highway in the Sunshine
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    Of course not, if you do it in a courteous manner and accept "no" if that is what he says. A little dialogue is always a good think, if nothing else you both might learn that long hair or diving a pick up does not make somebody an asshole. I know plenty of people who are and aren't regardless of their transport or grooming habits.

    I agree it is a constitutional right for Americans to be assholes...its just too bad that so many take the opportunity...
    iscariot

  11. #761
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    ...oh, and you might want to contact "The Access Fund" for advise and to learn about liability issues.

    I agree it is a constitutional right for Americans to be assholes...its just too bad that so many take the opportunity...
    iscariot

  12. #762
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    i hear what you’re saying and i wish it was the case but my perspective comes from my experience growing up in the usa and kind of rubs me the wrong way.

    from being treated differently cause jewish growing up, shot at as a kid by rednecks who thought it was funny, to being called a faggot from moving cars, i’m gonna continue being wary.

    this guy was pretty nice so maybe i should give Canadians a little more benefit of the doubt.

    never realized how much PTSD i had from growing up, but i get why my gf from northern alberta has no desire to move back to the usa with me.
    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

  13. #763
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    19,215
    Quote Originally Posted by hutash View Post
    ...oh, and you might want to contact "The Access Fund" for advise and to learn about liability issues.
    I wrote the Legal Primer for Climbing Access for the Access Fund nearly 20 years ago.

    Here is a condensed relevant portion: https://www.accessfund.org/uploads/p...ivate-Land.pdf

    Shit, I wrote that in 2002.

    http://dawnalguard.com/tradgirl/articles/survey2d.pdf

  14. #764
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    Sep 2008
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    Climbing Stoke

    back to FA land, some boulders the size of houses to clean:

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    and more where that came from...

    MTM: there’s some good stuff in that doc, thanks for posting.
    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

  15. #765
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    NY
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    3,301
    Hey ML, are you aware that there are some areas open to climbing in Harriman now? Maybe next time you visit home you can check the out?

  16. #766
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
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    i have fond memories of hiking in harriman. my favorite hike is from iona island up through doodletown and up the timp. the timp would make for awesome multi pitch trad. it’s a shame it’s banned there. you can see the gw and manhattan from the top, as well as the river, yonkers and the bx.

    the climbing you’re talking about is maybe by the claudius smith den? people go there to boulder, it has some of the hardest established stuff in ny.

    if you haven’t checked it out: the powerlinez in torne valley were opened to climbing. lots of wildlife and a cool vibe if you ever want to look around or get on a rope.

    it’s a great park, super lucky to have it so close to nyc for stealth camping, secret rope swings, and more and more climbing i guess.

    ashima on nuclear war in harriman:


    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=FOH_HNwRjK0
    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

  17. #767
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
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    3,230
    That one pic reminds me of supercrack in sky top. Ever do that one ML?


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  18. #768
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    Haha, no. Have you?

    This mossy (and shorter) crack is only slightly less iconic than what was the hardest climb in the world in 1970 whatever though!
    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

  19. #769
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
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    3,230
    Of course. Best part is we parked in the golf club lot and I pulled out a set of clubs. We then proceeded to stuff our backpacks with racks and ropes all the while talking to the guys next to us about how the course was playing.

    Oh and I didn’t climb it per se as much as the lead did and I greasily pulled myself up the rope and cleaned about 10 large Camelots out as I went.


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  20. #770
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    NY
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    3,301
    Yeah, I was referring to the powerlinez. I haven’t been but it looks cool. I never got past the dabbling/learning phase of climbing myself and it has been years since I did anything at all but I still get a kick out of seeing what other folks are doing. Might be time soon maybe

  21. #771
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    Sep 2008
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    dawn sesh before the heatwave

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    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

  22. #772
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
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    closer
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    Arty!
    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  23. #773
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
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    SLC, Utah
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    4,283
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    this season has been slow because of covid (and skiing and gardening and whatever else), but i finally got the redpoint on "Goldenfinger" in Ferguson canyon in SLC. i was super bummed to blow the onsight - took a fall at the crux - so, stoked to get it clean. not an impressive lead at all, but for me, i was psyched to get it.

  24. #774
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    Sep 2008
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    nice lead, that looks like a super fun crack!



    took a friend up the classic Dulfer in Val D. Really enjoyed it. thank you, mr weissner!

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    this guy crushed a 12 next to me while i fell at the crux of my line. was pretty rad. so casual.

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    feels pretty good to be out

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    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

  25. #775
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    in the brew room
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    Although my 10 yo is a little afraid of heights, he was more than happy to belay his little brother over the wknd at City of Rocks. Pretty cool to see.

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