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Thread: Climbing Stoke

  1. #701
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    Your spotter is not paying attention....squirrel

    I agree it is a constitutional right for Americans to be assholes...its just too bad that so many take the opportunity...
    iscariot

  2. #702
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boissal View Post
    Wrapped up a new 7 pitch route high above the West Desert this weekend. It was a long time in the making. For those of you who are familiar with the area, the new Sevier Lake potash mine project will probably we visible in the upper left corner of the 3rd pic. Because "wastelands" need to be monetized and destroyed one way or another. The mining company even adopted the name of the peak in the last shot.
    Wow, that rock looks rad.

  3. #703
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dantheman View Post
    Wow, that rock looks rad.
    Some of the best I've climbed on. Quartzite with texture which is basically unheard of, you can actually smear on stuff and not immediately peel off. It's very hard to read though, cryptic bulges everywhere, long bouldery routes with good rests. Everything feels at least 1 full number harder than the rating onsight.

  4. #704
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boissal View Post
    Some of the best I've climbed on. Quartzite with texture which is basically unheard of, you can actually smear on stuff and not immediately peel off. It's very hard to read though, cryptic bulges everywhere, long bouldery routes with good rests. Everything feels at least 1 full number harder than the rating onsight.
    Sounds sick!!!

    Did you publish the topo/beta?

  5. #705
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    day 1 in the books, i think the rock got a lot sharper this winter

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    They got a name for the winners in the world

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  6. #706
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    They got a name for the winners in the world

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  7. #707
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    third ascent of fitz roy 1968

    yvon chouinard
    doug thompkins
    dick dorworth
    chris jones
    lito tejada-flores

    https://tubitv.com/movies/489615/mou...orms?tracked=1

    .
    "we all do dumb shit when we're fucked up" mike tyson

  8. #708
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    fun movie, thanks
    They got a name for the winners in the world

    http://procatinator.com/?cat=80

  9. #709
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    Climbing Stoke

    The ice i wanted to climb today had a huge horizontal crack across the face.

    Ended up checking out this beastly and well storied wall. Intimidating. But the ice is gone in lots of spots and a couple people were getting after it (pictured lower left)

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    i guess if it's not going to snow anymore...

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    bye ice
    They got a name for the winners in the world

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  10. #710
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    Some winter Quarantine action.. Secret spot.. So no one comes by. Checking out a rehab climb. A smooth v7/8 traverse.
    unfortunately I kind of destroyed my shoulder three weeks ago in one of the last gym sessions and shoulder moves are a no no... I still don't know what is broken or if it will resolve itself without surgery. I should probably not Boulder for a few weeks but who can say no to prime conditions and free time. And it doesn't hurt while climbing just when I try to sleep on it Click image for larger version. 

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    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  11. #711
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    And I haven't really used my beastmaker. Conditions are just too good. Maybe next week when it gets warmClick image for larger version. 

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    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  12. #712
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    My shoulder is on the mend. Getting sendy in a 7b+.... V8
    Attachment 323906Attachment 323907
    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  13. #713
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    Huh attachments broken?
    Edit:yes seems like it. Wasn't my connection this morning...
    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  14. #714
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    not working yet
    They got a name for the winners in the world

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  15. #715
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    Here we go again. Quarantine stoke.
    I had to work hard to get the little one AND her bike to the spot and back.
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    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  16. #716
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    How long you spent projecting that problem? what rock type is it?

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    i dont kare i carnt spell or youse punktuation properlee, im on a skiing forum

  17. #717
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    Sandstone 1 1/2 half sessions...
    Basically did it second go the second session. My shoulder is at 80% max I'd guess. and im Pretty careful.
    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  18. #718
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    Quote Originally Posted by subtle plague View Post
    Sandstone 1 1/2 half sessions...
    Basically did it second go the second session. My shoulder is at 80% max I'd guess. and im Pretty careful.
    lookes a bit like the grit we climb on in the Peak district. Really grippy especially when its cold. Good effort on that problem got a bit of everything in it
    Much limestone round your way?

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  19. #719
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    The sandstone in the black forest is not as rough as grit. I had my fair share of gritstone on my way to Scotland two years ago. I did "not to be taken away" in 25+ degrees. I was happy that there were jugs further up.

    Yeah northern Swiss alps and Danube Valley have good lime, they just lack the vodka. It's rope climbing though. I do not Boulder on limestone (we have a limestone cave right behind the Swiss border 30min away, but I rather go to the gym instead of there).

    Edit: and the problem ends basically two moves after the roof. It's pretty lowball.
    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  20. #720
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    Quote Originally Posted by subtle plague View Post
    The sandstone in the black forest is not as rough as grit. I had my fair share of gritstone on my way to Scotland two years ago. I did "not to be taken away" in 25+ degrees. I was happy that there were jugs further up.

    Yeah northern Swiss alps and Danube Valley have good lime, they just lack the vodka. It's rope climbing though. I do not Boulder on limestone (we have a limestone cave right behind the Swiss border 30min away, but I rather go to the gym instead of there).

    Edit: and the problem ends basically two moves after the roof. It's pretty lowball.
    theres a saying we use here
    if the weather is shit hit the grit, if its fine climb the lime.
    where did you climb in the UK?

    Sent from my SM-G973F using TGR Forums mobile app
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  21. #721
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    whats that hand move after the heal hook? one of the little chalked pockets?

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    i dont kare i carnt spell or youse punktuation properlee, im on a skiing forum

  22. #722
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    i really like sandstone, wish there was more of it around here.
    They got a name for the winners in the world

    http://procatinator.com/?cat=80

  23. #723
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    Sand stone is the best.

    I only Bouldered a few days in the peak district and in Scotland.

    Both sandstone areas because I'm a connaisseur. (peak and torridon in Scotland)
    sandstone bouldering is the best, by far. Gneiss is pretty cool too. Granite is a bit rough and limestone is rope only.

    I go to bleau as often as possible (actually I would be there right now if this covid shit hadnt happened ... Easter holidays and perfect weather) and Rocklands was pretty cool too.

    Edit: the move after the heel goes to the sloper rail with the left hand again, right still in the underling. Match the rail with the right hand (the little 30cm wide and 1cm deep slopy streak with chalk) with a desperate right heel in the roof to avoid swing, then left hand into the deep two finger pocket(the right of the two obvious ones) , right hand further right. Swing left heel into right heel, go to good three finger pocket 20cm below the top with the right hand . Stem left hand where the left heel has been and go to the top with the right hand. Reposition. Then easy mantle.
    Last edited by subtle plague; 04-07-2020 at 12:40 PM.
    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  24. #724
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    We've only got grit and lime round here. Its all i know intimately. Grits amazing when its a frosty winters day, the sun comes out burns it off with a gentle breeze.
    You missed out not trad climbing in the Peaks, We have a lot of short routes but some real quality stuff.
    Not done font will do this year if things change, missed so much skiing and got 4 pre paid chunnel crossing needing using up.

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    i dont kare i carnt spell or youse punktuation properlee, im on a skiing forum

  25. #725
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    letís see some peaks! and lakes, if ya got em!
    They got a name for the winners in the world

    http://procatinator.com/?cat=80

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