Climbing Stoke

[ex-powderbroker]

yeah, pretty pretty pretty good

[yeahman]

Just finished reading Katie Brown's memoir Unraveled. If you were a rock climber in the 90s when she was a waif-like 14 year old winning the X games and international competitions, you may find this book as fascinating as I did. I had a hard time putting it down. One of this things I found most interesting was the amount of difficult trad climbing she did in her post-competition years. I guess I'd lost track of her by then. I also have a small connection to her because I worked as the editor of her 2008 instructional/inspirational book Girl on the Rocks. At that time, every interaction I had with her left me somewhat mystified. This book explains a lot about what was going on with her mental health at the time. If you're not aware of who she is, here's a link with a bit of info.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Katie_Brown_(climber)

https://www.amazon.com/Unraveled-Cli...=UTF8&qid=&sr=

[schuss]

Obligatory "can it please stop fucking raining now"

[ex-powderbroker]

super classic line called ochre i led



i cleaned this one which is quite nice, beezlebub. here my friends rehearses before his lead.



running out of time we moved the anchor to this mega classic trad adventure line on the west face of the aiguille. sounds weird to say about single pitch but you have hard face climbing or an easier dihedral to this cave, followed by an exit in this horizontal crack with no feet. you pull the roof and head across this detached flake to this baggy finger crack that gets wider and wider.

shot on rappel




probably posted this view before from the boulders



visiting climbers from magic wood



i love the rock here



five star half day

[andy m]

Nice looking rock. Your photos made me look up the Aiguille on Mountain Project.

[ex-powderbroker]

It's a really nice place. Mostly single pitch trad on anorthosite (basically granite). Some very hard face climbing and some of the only 5.14 trad in the east.

In other news, "International Climbing Day" tomorrow, free gym for me in the rain (free gym on a rainy day).

https://www.thenorthface.com/en-us/e...cid=6063d877d0

[ex-powderbroker]

my previous 11c project at Rigaud about to spit this guy off. from the ground it doesn’t look steep….

[ex-powderbroker]

couple classics today courtesy of john turner

sceptre



bastard



started to rain so while we were waiting under the massive roofs of mont king we found some other climbs. this thing led to an anchor where i top roped “gangrene” and obscure late 70’s chosspile i can’t imagine leading on gear. people are nuts.



kind of got spanked a bit but for the most part perfect weather and some good mileage working on jams. beats working.

nice gangrene photo:

https://www.mountainproject.com/photo/111420915

[romeo tango]

here's a nice TRS i like to climb when i'm feeling saucy!
the crux is traversing under the roof and engaging the exit crack
i actually remembered my camera!

.

.

.
if you're passing through the idaho panhandle, be aware that the crags at Q'emiln (AKA Post Falls) are closed for the season.
an 80 acre fire burned through this summer and the closure is for hazard reduction/vegetation recovery.

another story i heard is that the fire burned close to one of the minor crags and there is concern that the glue-in bolts were compromised, so, the city closed all climbing
.

[ex-powderbroker]

who is ready for ice climbing?



(not me! …and this video is nuts)

[ex-powderbroker]

good luck to this guy

En Reprise a Radio-Quebec, 13b

[ex-powderbroker]

got a nice campsite by a small crag in nowheresville with some friends. we left some top ropes up on cracks and hit them after dinner for some laps by headlamp.

never done that before, great weekend.



had to get a shot from a good stance after pulling the roof into this one.



about halfway down cleaning. it wasn’t a big cliff except in fun value.

[ex-powderbroker]

color is coming in



did my yearly bouldering after getting beta for Swamp Dog



v1 onsight padless ascent



got roofied



more overhanging crack



i could do this every day.