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Thread: Climbing Stoke

  1. #1076
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    outer spokanistan
    Posts
    556
    seems like most faces were V2/V3
    the slopey overhangs much harder
    .
    "we all do dumb shit when we're fucked up"
    mike tyson

  2. #1077
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    closer
    Posts
    4,450
    My wife's third place makes me stoked.
    Edit: not my wife's instagram. We don't do millenial
    She has the 18month old on her arm. And still is stronger than girls 20 years younger. Three girls out of 6 have kids.

    https://www.instagram.com/p/Cgd34BcDJJH/
    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  3. #1078
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    13,569
    congrats to mrs plague!
    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

  4. #1079
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    13,569
    went back to fa land to help my friend put up a new route in an area heís been exploring in another cave system.

    it starts with a handrail which you traverse on to gain an overhanging hand crack. when that narrows you flip around to an arete and then finish on an ow protected by a 9 pretty far from the anchor.

    he sent it pretty fast like a boss but i found it pretty hard.

    then we finished the day with an easier hand crack outside and picking half a nalgene of blueberries and raspberries on the way back to the car.

    great day!

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    easier to find berries than the car when the trail looks like this


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    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

  5. #1080
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    SLC, Utah
    Posts
    3,186
    Quote Originally Posted by ex-powderbroker View Post
    went back to fa land to help my friend put up a new route in an area heís been exploring in another cave system.

    it starts with a handrail which you traverse on to gain an overhanging hand crack. when that narrows you flip around to an arete and then finish on an ow protected by a 9 pretty far from the anchor.

    he sent it pretty fast like a boss but i found it pretty hard.

    then we finished the day with an easier hand crack outside and picking half a nalgene of blueberries and raspberries on the way back to the car.

    great day!

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    easier to find berries than the car when the trail looks like this


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    Okay that handcrack looks fucking dope, my god

    Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk

  6. #1081
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    13,569
    yeap. i wish that was in my backyard and could run laps all day.

    couple more of the cave not from the phone, something unreal about jumping into a hole and doing this shit. Click image for larger version. 

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    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

  7. #1082
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    13,569

    Climbing Stoke

    got a couple in after work. this was a real nice 10.

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    i belayed him on his project which went down pretty fast, hopefully thereís a video coming soon since he records like every route he does.
    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

  8. #1083
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    outer spokanistan
    Posts
    556
    I confess I've spent more time in the water than on the rock this season.

    102 degrees at Q'emiln AKA Post Falls

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    ex-powbro, how do you get your photos to align correctly? mine are vertical on the drive but always load screwy on TGR

    .
    "we all do dumb shit when we're fucked up"
    mike tyson

  9. #1084
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    13,569
    heh, i can't even get a weather report to avoid sitting in a cave for an hour and a half in a downpour after work yesterday.

    sidenote: sitting in a cave during a downpour with a buddy is more fun than a lot of things. Maybe I'm ready for the alpine?
    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

  10. #1085
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    13,569
    just picked this up off eBay, I notice they forgot to put in all of our great ranges in the east

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    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

  11. #1086
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    SLC, Utah
    Posts
    3,186
    finally got on Interceptor at City after building it up in my mind for years and years - managed to style the lower crux only to pump out and fall two moves from the lip.


    Ugh, next time I guess

    Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk

  12. #1087
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    13,569
    Such a sick route, you'll get it next time!
    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

  13. #1088
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    13,569
    iím doing a multipitch tomorrow and want to bring a tag to shorten the raps. iíd also not want to lengthen the day by getting the ropes stuck. the tag is the edelrid escape rope so itís rated for 2 lead falls and i donít mind rapping on both or the fat single.

    how much more likely am i to get the ropes stuck using it as a tag as opposed to a double?

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    i have rapped before on it as a double with an edk, is there any better way to join them and not get them stuck? the widths are 6 and 9.8 and the double fishermanís has fucked me too many times.
    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

  14. #1089
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    13,569
    that purple kids link is bomber.

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    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

  15. #1090
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Last Best City in the Last Best Place
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    Quote Originally Posted by ex-powderbroker View Post
    just picked this up off eBay, I notice they forgot to put in all of our great ranges in the east

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    Never really noticed before but you're right. You'd think they could have at least included Whitney-Gilman or Moby Grape in that book just to have something in the East. Both meet their criteria of being at least 500 feet, and are total classics according to friends who've climbed them (I have not). Oh well.

    Edit: Searching around I found this article on Climbing.com where they suggest adding Whitney-Gilman and adding/removing some others.

    Out:

    EAST BUTTRESS, MIDDLE TRIPLE PEAK, AK: A super-involved endeavor, demanding weeks of time and great expense, with extremely uncertain weather. The first pitch has been erased by rockfall, and a replacement line has yet to be climbed
    HUMMINGBIRD RIDGE, MT. LOGAN, CANADA: The peak is striking. But the full line hasn’t seen a second ascent, and four people have died attempting it
    SHIPROCK, NM: It’s a sacred site for the Navajo Nation. Though it’s occasionally poached, it’s been off-limits to climbing since 1967
    D1, THE DIAMOND, LONGS PEAK, CO: The Diamond’s first route, but its seeping, hard free climbing at 14,000 feet and poor rock quality make some climbers question its inclusion
    NORTHCUTT-CARTER ROUTE, HALLETT PEAK, CO: Rockfall wiped out the first two pitches in the late 1990s. It’s still climbable, but it requires a tricky traverse on poorly protected terrain
    WISHBONE AR TE, MT. ROBSON, CANADA: A low success rate, dangerous approach, and choss make this the second-most-despised route of the Classics after Hummingbird Ridge.

    In:

    CRIMSON CHRYSALIS (5.8), RED ROCK, NV: Many climbers wanted some of the intense mountain routes replaced with more accessible, stellar rock climbs in the Southwest, especially Red Rock. Steck expressed regret for not including this area, but at the time, “We just didn’t know it, and no one was pushing it,” he says. The variety of crack and face climbing on Crimson Chrysalis now makes it one of Steck’s favorites.
    WHITNEY-GILMAN RIDGE (5.7), CANNON CLIFF, NH: An aesthetic and prominent long route in the East. Hassler Whitney and Bradley Gilman climbed the jutting spine with no pitons or other protection in 1929; they merely stopped to belay whenever they found ledges.
    MOONLIGHT BUTTRESS (5.8 C1), ZION NATIONAL PARK, UT: The most-requested replacement route. Moonlight Buttress ascends an obvious prow on its namesake buttress with perfect splitters cleaved into the upper sections. Free climbers and aspiring aid climbers alike flock here for a chance to tick this colorful line.
    CASUAL ROUTE (5.10A), THE DIAMOND, LONGS PEAK, CO: A relatively accessible route on Colorado’s highest wall. Most of the climbing is 5.8 or 5.9, and the crux moves are well protected. Plus, the alpine environment still gives you a full-value experience.

  16. #1091
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    13,569
    I'd throw these in the mix and if anyone wants to rope gun Grand Galets I'd be happy to jug it!

    The Diagonal (Wallface):
    https://www.mountainproject.com/rout...1/the-diagonal

    Regular route (Chapel Pond):
    https://www.mountainproject.com/rout.../regular-route

    The Fastest Gun (Poko):
    https://www.mountainproject.com/rout...he-fastest-gun

    Armadillo (Katahdin):
    https://www.mountainproject.com/rout.../the-armadillo

    Pinnacle Buttress (Mount Washington):
    https://www.mountainproject.com/rout...f-the-pinnacle

    Grand Galets (Cap Trinite):
    https://www.mountainproject.com/rout...ds-galets-free

    Titties and Beer (Looking Glass):
    https://www.mountainproject.com/rout...lds-hardest-58
    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

  17. #1092
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    13,569
    Quote Originally Posted by ex-powderbroker View Post
    I'd throw these in the mix and if anyone wants to rope gun Grand Galets I'd be happy to jug it!

    The Diagonal (Wallface):
    https://www.mountainproject.com/rout...1/the-diagonal

    Regular route (Chapel Pond):
    https://www.mountainproject.com/rout.../regular-route

    The Fastest Gun (Poko):
    https://www.mountainproject.com/rout...he-fastest-gun

    Armadillo (Katahdin):
    https://www.mountainproject.com/rout.../the-armadillo

    Pinnacle Buttress (Mount Washington):
    https://www.mountainproject.com/rout...f-the-pinnacle

    Grand Galets (Cap Trinite):
    https://www.mountainproject.com/rout...ds-galets-free

    Titties and Beer (Looking Glass):
    https://www.mountainproject.com/rout...lds-hardest-58
    i was on Gamesmanship the other day when this dude got tired of waiting for us to stop flailing. on-sited The Sting and then traversed across some pretty blank slab to get back on our route and then pass. i can not really imagine being able to on site these cracks. The Sting where he is in the photo is a bomber hand crack but getting into it you have the same weird start as Gamesmanship and then a finger crack traverse thing. The grades look modest but they are not easy.

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    itís also weird when a free soloist asks to pass. iíd rather not add big loose objects over my head but you canít really be like no either when theyíre underneath you doing a chicken wing or something in the offwidth.
    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

  18. #1093
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    13,569

    Climbing Stoke

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    stoke alert. first day took a bit to figure it out. second day was wet and i fell at the anchor. today i waited for it to dry and sent it first try. hitting the same route three times is basically something i never do but i think maybe projecting is for me.

    this is roma, 4 star short 11- at weir. so stoked.

    eta what a freaking perfect day.

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    Last edited by ex-powderbroker; 09-05-2022 at 08:50 PM.
    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

  19. #1094
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
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    13,569
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    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

  20. #1095
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    the Dog Patch
    Posts
    214
    a few pics from Acadia National Park this weekend up in Maine.. climbing out over the Atlantic Ocean sure is a cool experience and we scored super nice weather to boot

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    my head is perpetually in the clouds

  21. #1096
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Last Best City in the Last Best Place
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    If you're on Instagram and not following Jim Thornburg you are missing out one of the best and most well traveled climbing photographers of all time. He publishes a lot of photos from his extensive archives and the work is outstanding, as is the selection of climbs he shoots. Highly recommended!

    https://www.instagram.com/p/Ci5c4ozP...d=NDRkN2NkYzU=

  22. #1097
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    13,569
    I bought, disassembled and moved the finest home gym in Quebec, maybe Canada. I have nowhere to put all this shit yet so I guess I'm going to open up a netflix for climbing holds unless anyone wants to invest in a little something with 18 foot ceilings and 6500 square feet.



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    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

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