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Thread: Climbing Stoke

  1. #801
    Join Date
    May 2011
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    CO
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    Got out and climbed the diamond on Long's Peak 3 weeks ago. First time up the casual route and, despite the massive traffic jam (on a Tuesday), it was one of my favorite climbs of all time. We soloed up the north chimney to broadway and then enjoyed every move all the way up the casual route. The lead group was riding the struggle bus, flailing on every pitch, so we were waiting 30 minutes at every belay. Ended up being a dark to dark 17 hour day.

    Photos (sorry about the tiny, low res photos, blame the tapatalk app): sunrise at chasm view, alpenglow from chasm lake, soloing 5.4, 5.7 traverse pitch, looking down our 4th pitch (5.8 dihedral)










  2. #802
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    fkna stunning!
    They got a name for the winners in the world

    http://procatinator.com/?cat=80

  3. #803
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    Sep 2016
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    NAZ
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    Awesome!!
    It sucks to suck.

  4. #804
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    Climbing Stoke

    one more from the weekend of my buddy not from my iphone.

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    They got a name for the winners in the world

    http://procatinator.com/?cat=80

  5. #805
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    Quote Originally Posted by ml242 View Post
    one more from the weekend of my buddy not from my iphone.
    Very nice, that looks thin.

    Quote Originally Posted by zartagen View Post
    Got out and climbed the diamond on Long's Peak 3 weeks ago.
    Great pics, always wanted to do the Casual Route but never got around to it. Read today that some guy died up there (yesterday?), slipped and fell off Broadway while third classing to the base of the route. Damn. It's that unroped shit that will get you. Approaches and descents. Anyway, nice work, congrats.

  6. #806
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
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    Climbing Stoke

    i took a shot of this group heading to the top of the l’aiguillé yesterday. i had met them an hour before, a very good climber was taking up his two baby climber friends for the sunset. the route they chose is a wide chimney (that looks incredibly committing to me at 5.2) to this 5.5ish slab that takes a .75 over the course of thirty or so feet. Last time i went up there i was puckered but they topped out with a 12 pack of brews just before sunset with plans just to enjoy the air for a few hours. Watching their high fives at the top was one of the raddest things i’ve seen in awhile.

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    ah damn. didn’t realize i was around the corner of the FFA of zébrée. 4th ascent, among the hardest trad lines in the east (world?). this girl is so tough:


    https://www.instagram.com/p/CDnBg4mj...=1si83qzt5kbif
    They got a name for the winners in the world

    http://procatinator.com/?cat=80

  7. #807
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    MIL gets on a rope for the first time at 72 in shawinigan


    climbed Michael Ward (5.8 in val david) yesterday. it was named after the hillary team doctor who made the first ascent while working in montreal. did not find any of his old pitons rumored to be en route but the view from the top is probably almost as good as the early 60’s:

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    what will tomorrow bring?
    They got a name for the winners in the world

    http://procatinator.com/?cat=80

  8. #808
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    this was fun. i did three laps and turned it over to the guy after me who whipped on the piton at the crux. yeesh

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    They got a name for the winners in the world

    http://procatinator.com/?cat=80

  9. #809
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    Mar 2006
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  10. #810
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    We took a break from surfing and cruised some mellow perfect sandstone here in Ireland. And I made some FAs (probably not because the guide is 7 years old).
    1 traverses the sloper lip. SD from good ledge. Then to the lip and left. 6A+/B ish.
    2. Straight from crimps via good crack. into the lip traverse. Adds another 6A single move. 6B+?
    And 3 is kinda hard. Traverse below lip on small slopey crimps. Without juggy crack from 2. Same start as 2. Probably 7Aish. Couldn't do it. Tomorrow.
    Pics.
    Wife in a 5 arete.
    Me in the 6A wall.
    FA (??) shield.
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    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  11. #811
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    The Le Conte boulder, also known as the House Keeping boulder, is in Yosemite Valley, California. For more than a decade, I'd been trying to figure out the proudest, tallest line on the block, with no luck.

    One day, I was playing with my sister Jenny's kids, Cyrus and Dahlia, in the forest amongst the rocks. They were acting all whacky, wild and uninhibited, jumping and bouncing around from rock to rock and scampering up trees. I had been trying this sick line on the boulder but never figured out the crux move in all the years before. Somehow the kids, 'anything is possible' energy drifted into me. I stood before the starting bucket giggling. I was loose and moved my body in a different way than ever before. To my amazement, I stuck the crux with my nine-year-old nephew and my 7-year-old niece spotting me. I jumped down, careful not to squish them and finally believed I would send this lifetime project within my next few efforts.

    King Air is one of the most obvious boulder problems around. For years I tried the problem alone, somehow keeping it completely secret. My bro, Ivo Ninov and I worked on it together. We kept our efforts stealth by washing off the chalk with water before leaving for the night. For years, I doubt anyone else ever seriously looked at the bold line as it was too high and there wasn't any chalk to lead them. Ivos enthusiasm literally lifted me higher and higher. On every serious attempt he spotted me, making sure that at least I wouldn't split my melon.

    This is the proudest highball boulder problem I know of in the Valley. The business scales over 30 feet to the final bucket. Its on the verge of being a free solo. When I fell my feet traveled 20 feet before impacting the pads. I was lucky not to shatter bones. My quads were very sore and I limped around for the next few days. King Air is the most beautiful boulder problem Ive ever done. You would be hard pressed to find any line, more aesthetic.

    ~Dean Potter

  12. #812
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    Aug 2005
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    in the brew room
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    First chimney for the little man...
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    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  13. #813
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    Oct 2003
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    Sick! I still haven't gotten Sam out climbing, besides scrambling anyway. It doesn't help that he never shows interest and poo-poos the idea whenever I bring it up.

  14. #814
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dantheman View Post
    Sick! I still haven't gotten Sam out climbing, besides scrambling anyway. It doesn't help that he never shows interest and poo-poos the idea whenever I bring it up.
    yea Collin really isn't into it and didn't even make this trip. he likes bouldering some but not psyched on heights.

  15. #815
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    Our little one will be returned to vendor if doesn't get pro by the age of 10!!!.

    Bleau stopover on the way back from Ireland.
    And she had fun in the gymfor the first time. AlThough she only climbed 20min and ran around the rest of the time. Click image for larger version. 

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    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  16. #816
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
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    Climbing Stoke

    i partially tore a bicep falling in the woods below this 9 pitch climb (we are at the base here). thinking about testing it this weekend, summer is slipping away and the injuries don’t help.

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    They got a name for the winners in the world

    http://procatinator.com/?cat=80

  17. #817
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    ^^That's a cool pic. Where is it?

  18. #818
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    Quote Originally Posted by yeahman View Post
    ^^That's a cool pic. Where is it?
    the whole area is like banff without the people:

    https://www.mountainproject.com/area...iviere-malbaie
    They got a name for the winners in the world

    http://procatinator.com/?cat=80

  19. #819
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  20. #820
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    Quote Originally Posted by ml242 View Post
    the whole area is like banff without the people:

    https://www.mountainproject.com/area...iviere-malbaie
    Wow, Redcoats Resurrection, 1500 feet, grade IV, sounds classic. And that 1000 foot waterfall...gah.

  21. #821
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    Quote Originally Posted by Meadow Skipper View Post
    Holy shit!
    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  22. #822
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    Jan 2009
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    ^^^wow

    Went to rmnp last week
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  23. #823
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    Sep 2020
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    2

    Climbing Stoke

    You guys are amazing. You have posted such great pictures.

  24. #824
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Zurich, Switzerland
    Posts
    359

    Summer in the alps

    was not here on the board all summer but was climbing a lot. So here some stoke from the alpine season: easy classics across the dolomites and some climbing in Switzerland.

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    Grilfriend and I in front of Tre Cime (climbed Cima Grande with a friend the next day)


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    Cadini Group (short climb before the thunderstorm)


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    same climb.

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    Sass da Stria South Arête

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    Torri di Sella

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    "Daumenkante" in the Sassolungo Group. Guided a Group from the alpine club. Very nice and very exposed climbing.

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    Torri di Sella once more.

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    Furkapass

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    Furkapass - Gross Bielenhorn, Arête.

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    View of the 4000m-peaks of Valais from Wiwanni-Hut

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    Furkapass

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    Bietschhorn seen from Wiwannihorn

    sorry for the bulk of pictures...
    Last edited by LeoK; 09-27-2020 at 02:14 AM. Reason: more info

  25. #825
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    Sep 2011
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    Vermont
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    Quote Originally Posted by LeoK View Post
    sorry for the bulk of pictures...
    Don't be, nice shots. Looks like some awesome climbs you got to this summer.

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