Page 12 of 13 FirstFirst ... 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 LastLast
Results 276 to 300 of 304

Thread: Climbing Stoke

  1. #276
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Fort Front Range
    Posts
    1,369
    I used to climb there in the late 80s early 90s when i lived in the Bronx. Stopped going after cars kept getting broken into in the lot.
    In with the 9.

  2. #277
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    7,048
    Nice. You ever get on the palisades?

    The crack was kens crack in the gunks for anyone interested.
    .....I hope you know that this will go down on your permanent record

    http://procatinator.com/?cat=80

  3. #278
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Back on orig acct...
    Posts
    904
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	stansbury.jpg 
Views:	59 
Size:	419.3 KB 
ID:	206630

    grippy slab 5.9
    success has many fathers, failure is an orphan // we are all apprentices in a craft where no one ever becomes a master -EH

  4. #279
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Fort Front Range
    Posts
    1,369
    I had heard that the palisades were banned, but in all honestly, I had no concept of crack technique back then, and it looked broken and greasy as hell from the parkway.

    Ken's was my first ever pitch at the gunks in 1986. Cant imagine how polished the ubes must be at this point.
    In with the 9.

  5. #280
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    JH/AK/Los Andes
    Posts
    2,680
    Quote Originally Posted by auvgeek View Post
    ^^No idea, but that looks really, really sweet.
    Shaken, not Stirred. Mooses tooth.
    "The idea wasnt for me, that I would be the only one that would ever do this. My idea was that everybody should be doing this. At the time nobody was, but this was something thats too much fun to pass up." -Briggs
    Quote Originally Posted by LeeLau View Post
    Wear your climbing harness. Attach a big anodized locker to your belay loop so its in prime position to hit your nuts. Double russian Ti icescrews on your side loops positioned for maximal anal rape when you sit down. Then everyone will know your radness
    More stoke, less shit.

  6. #281
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    prb, co
    Posts
    29
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_20170604_091241832.jpg 
Views:	94 
Size:	1.00 MB 
ID:	207527
    A little FR cragging from this weekend. Had the route to ourselves!

  7. #282
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    the vails
    Posts
    1,183
    Quote Originally Posted by turbomike15 View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_20170604_091241832.jpg 
Views:	94 
Size:	1.00 MB 
ID:	207527
    A little FR cragging from this weekend. Had the route to ourselves!
    Love that route. Having it to yourself really ups the fun factor. Otherwise you probably wouldn't have been in the shade for that pitch :/

  8. #283
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    prb, co
    Posts
    29
    Quote Originally Posted by zartagen View Post
    Love that route. Having it to yourself really ups the fun factor. Otherwise you probably wouldn't have been in the shade for that pitch :/
    We did Great Zot>>Rewritten>>Rebuff's. I can't handle the heat, so was happy to be in the shade all day. My partner on the other hand...

  9. #284
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    slc
    Posts
    7,088
    Broken mountain bike + new trail shoes + father's day = self-powered solo day on Olympus. Sandy->West Slabs/North Summit/Neffs->Sandy


















  10. #285
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    in the brew room
    Posts
    1,610
    ^ I've been wanting to do an early/fast scramble up there since I moved this way. How long car to car? What's the scramble like?

  11. #286
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    slc
    Posts
    7,088
    Bike-to-bike time was about 5 hours, but I got off-route on the descent into Neffs and did about a mile of some pretty hateful bushwacking which ate a lot of time. The guidebook description of the walk-off to Neffs is pretty vague and assumes you have some beta from the Kamp's Ridge approach and climb. The approach took about 50 minutes, the slabs took about an hour, and another hour to the north summit. If you skipped the north summit and just did the westerly walk-off back to the bottom of the slabs I'd say 3-3.5 hours car-to-car should be easily doable.

    The slabs themselves were great. Noticeably less hairy feeling than the south ridge of Superior IMO. You definitely wouldn't want to take a full head-over-heels backwards fall, but pretty tame feeling just cruising up on all fours. I actually found myself looking for sections that were thinner and more interesting climbing. You could probably make the whole thing 5.4 if you wanted. Honestly, there were a couple short downclimbs on the ridge scramble to the north summit that felt sketchier than anything on the slabs.

    Watch out for rattlesnakes. I damn near put my hand on that first one, but thankfully it was still pretty cool and a bit cloudy so he wasn't active and didn't even really acknowledge my presence. I saw the second one later near the north summit and he was pissed off. I passed two people on the ridge scramble who said they had seen three already.

    I read up a bit on Kamp's Ridge while trying to figure out how I screwed up the walk-off and it sounds pretty awesome. Sounds a lot like the south ridge of Superior with a lot of knife-edge 5th-5.4. There's a short 5.6 crux that sounds potentially questionable for soloing, but apparently you can skirt it if needed. Hit me up if you might be interested.

    https://www.mountainproject.com/v/kamps-ridge/108182481
    Last edited by Dantheman; 06-19-2017 at 12:13 PM.

  12. #287
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Portlandia
    Posts
    3,125
    You just rock normal hiking shoes for that, or did you wear something stickier?
    phil-herbert.com

  13. #288
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    slc
    Posts
    7,088
    Trail runners. Brought climbing shoes in my pack but didn't use them. Approach shoes would be ideal if you have them, otherwise throwing climbing shoes in your pack wouldn't be a bad idea just in case you need the extra confidence.

  14. #289
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Ogden
    Posts
    4,533
    I've always wanted to do the slabs but figured I didn't quite have the head for the free solo, but I found the south ridge of Superior to be really comfortable so may hit them up. Thanks for the beta. Looked fun other than the snakes.

  15. #290
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Portlandia
    Posts
    3,125
    Yeah, looked like a nice little Sunday there! Thanks for the beta
    phil-herbert.com

  16. #291
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Helltown, MT
    Posts
    1,263
    This is pretty funny.

  17. #292
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    3,321
    Lover's Chimney at the Leap. (I loved it. whatsupdoc, who lead it, thought it was a bit dirty.)


    Cragging with the 7-year-old.

  18. #293
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    2,494
    Quote Originally Posted by AKbruin View Post
    Lover's Chimney at the Leap. (I loved it. whatsupdoc, who lead it, thought it was a bit dirty.)
    Awesome. There's a classic chimney down the road at sugarloaf, too

  19. #294
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    SLC
    Posts
    423
    Quote Originally Posted by zion zig zag View Post
    I've always wanted to do the slabs but figured I didn't quite have the head for the free solo, but I found the south ridge of Superior to be really comfortable so may hit them up. Thanks for the beta. Looked fun other than the snakes.
    I always felt that the slabs were a bit more serious than Superior or the N ridge of the Pfeiff.
    I'd never bring climbing shoes on Sup and I don't think you're ever linking more than 2 climbing moves in a row before standing on a ledge. There's exposure but it's rarely consequential and there are only a couple places where you have to get serious.

    The W slabs feel more like an actual climb than a scramble. I've simul climbed them a couple of times with people who didn't think twice about going ropeless on Sup but didn't feel comfortable unroping until the last third of the slabs. I'm always happy to wear climbing shoes up there even though approach would probably work.
    The first 2 "pitches" are legit 5.5, the slab is low angle but it's a jug haul, it's all about small edges and the occasional smear. You can take breaks on ledges here and there but you're certainly not walking around the way you are on Sup. Things ease up a bit as you get higher and there are several fat ledges and trees that help decrease the sense of exposure. If you trend left or tackle the roofs though it's easy to make the W slabs consistently 5.5 and there are several spots on the upper wall with great sections of hand crack and clean slabs up to 5.7.

    Run up there with climbing shoes and treat it as a rock climb and you'll probably love it without getting scared shitless. If you don't go to the N summit head up the ridge to the first short downclimb into the gully which marks the E edge of the slabs. That's the only tolerable way off the face, everything else involves hellish brush.

  20. #295
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Helltown, MT
    Posts
    1,263
    Man those snakes freak me out.

  21. #296
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    3,321
    Quote Originally Posted by bodywhomper View Post
    Awesome. There's a classic chimney down the road at sugarloaf, too
    Nice. Haven't done Sugarloaf or Phantom Spires yet. Or the Emeralds or a million other places, for that matter.

  22. #297
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    closer
    Posts
    2,443
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG-20170725-WA0003.jpg 
Views:	43 
Size:	109.4 KB 
ID:	209953
    Something recent:
    Me in "supernova" 7C/V9 magic wood Switzerland.
    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  23. #298
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    JH/AK/Los Andes
    Posts
    2,680
    Direct E Buttress Middle Teton

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using TGR Forums mobile app
    "The idea wasnt for me, that I would be the only one that would ever do this. My idea was that everybody should be doing this. At the time nobody was, but this was something thats too much fun to pass up." -Briggs
    Quote Originally Posted by LeeLau View Post
    Wear your climbing harness. Attach a big anodized locker to your belay loop so its in prime position to hit your nuts. Double russian Ti icescrews on your side loops positioned for maximal anal rape when you sit down. Then everyone will know your radness
    More stoke, less shit.

  24. #299
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Ventura Highway in the Sunshine
    Posts
    19,283
    ^^^Beauty, is that the crux? Looks like a sweet wall, and must be tough at that altitude.

    I agree it is a constitutional right for Americans to be assholes...its just too bad that so many take the opportunity...
    iscariot

  25. #300
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    JH/AK/Los Andes
    Posts
    2,680
    It is the crux. Decent rests ever 20 feet or so. Favorite route of the summer so far.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using TGR Forums mobile app
    "The idea wasnt for me, that I would be the only one that would ever do this. My idea was that everybody should be doing this. At the time nobody was, but this was something thats too much fun to pass up." -Briggs
    Quote Originally Posted by LeeLau View Post
    Wear your climbing harness. Attach a big anodized locker to your belay loop so its in prime position to hit your nuts. Double russian Ti icescrews on your side loops positioned for maximal anal rape when you sit down. Then everyone will know your radness
    More stoke, less shit.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •