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Thread: Climbing Stoke

  1. #951
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    Finally. Magic wood again. Climbing some links on Body Count 8a/8a+
    V11/v12 (used to be v12 now the stronger kids these days say 8a/v11..sigh.)
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    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  2. #952
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    burly
    They got a name for the winners in the world

    http://procatinator.com/?cat=80

  3. #953
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    The Sloper for the right Hand im the first pic is super bad and you do 2 1/2 moves with it while squeezing the left heel desperately. Hardest move is the start though.

    After the second pic you still have a 6b/6b+ish high Ball top out to go.(v3?)
    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  4. #954
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    Climbing Stoke

    been a month since i climbed inside or out and thought i should test the wonky elbow. itís not doing great but man i had fun today. new spot, single pitch meta sandstone with cool vertical cracks, slab, face, overhangs, and tons of roofs. it was such a great day outside, only one other party around, a dad with two little kids.

    here was a tough roof:

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    the others were roof cracks. failure to be good at jamming was exposed as usual. also, the ethics of long ago were different.

    toit de bean now free at 12b
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    pleasant arete. just clipping bolts. fun fun fun.

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    such a nice day to climb.

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    great region to be in, shawinigan.
    They got a name for the winners in the world

    http://procatinator.com/?cat=80

  5. #955
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    RIP Paul Nelson. I did not know who he was, but I saw a post about his death on the Evening Sends fb page today, with a link to this story he wrote in 2013 about headpointing Color Blind in the New River Gorge. Worth a read for sure. Interesting perspective.

    The Day I sent Color Blind

  6. #956
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    4th class traverse to the lings and rockies ....
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    fantastic formations!
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    the bite was slow ....
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    "we all do dumb shit when we're fucked up"
    mike tyson

  7. #957
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    I was looking for someplace that fit my style of climbing:
    single pitch, easy/moderate, rope solo lead/TR
    Stone Hill did not disappoint!
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    these lines caught my eye
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    and these
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    and these
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    the horizontal seams, shallow cracks and dishes reminded me of icicle creek canyon
    the sport climbs are superb, the trad is burly, many climbs are mixed
    most crags are 60-70 feet from the highway. don't fret, there's not much traffic
    I stuck to the KISS principle being my first trip, can't wait to return
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    broke out the ballets for some crack attack
    .
    "we all do dumb shit when we're fucked up"
    mike tyson

  8. #958
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    no pad, no bug repellent, no problem!

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    actually i was too scared to break an ankle doing anything harder than v0. but i was still stoked!
    They got a name for the winners in the world

    http://procatinator.com/?cat=80

  9. #959
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    Quote Originally Posted by romeo tango View Post
    I was looking for someplace that fit my style of climbing:
    single pitch, easy/moderate, rope solo lead/TR
    Stone Hill did not disappoint!.
    Cool man, I used to climb at that place. Did you get on Room with a View?

  10. #960
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    Quote Originally Posted by yeahman View Post
    .... Room with a View?
    .
    unfortunately not. I did watch a guy work the exit roof.
    My guidebook is 26 years old, many of the routes aren't in it
    The only ones I can say for sure I climbed were Clark's Nutcracker, Fantasy Land
    and the Lizard Slab
    The grades are old-school stout!

    .
    "we all do dumb shit when we're fucked up"
    mike tyson

  11. #961
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    My daughter following bare foot Charles example In bleau.Name:  Screenshot_20210802-075309_Video%20Player.jpeg
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    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  12. #962
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    .
    barefoot free-solo
    is the logical progression

    .
    "we all do dumb shit when we're fucked up"
    mike tyson

  13. #963
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    Quote Originally Posted by ml242 View Post
    Attachment 371968

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    exploratory mission to a 2 pitch 5.8 crack inside this badass cliff. not the arete outside which looks like a ten gym climb with a sharp and featured edge. will be back!
    made it back here for the chimney and crack climb inside the cave. didnít feel 5.8 nor did this feel like a grade 2. late start but arrived well after dark at the car. the little swamp is totally flooded as the beavers have been busy.

    i have a lot to say about this climb, but iíve just never done anything like it. sure didnít want to fall and a thin margin, it felt like. cracks on faces, chimneys, roofs, this thing had everything and doing it by headlamp was a real test. my mind is so blown.

    just a couple of pics

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    entering the cave ( about 100 ft till you get to the end before roping up. very 127 hours)

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    on a little ledge where i built the first belay

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    exiting out of a little hole behind the top of the cliff

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    a bit of fall in the air. better figure out how to get off this and retrieve my bag at the base!


    what a day!
    They got a name for the winners in the world

    http://procatinator.com/?cat=80

  14. #964
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    ^^ awesome, that looks so fun!

    I remember climbing something somewhat similar in Redrocks maybe 15 years ago. Didn't need the headlamp, but tiny little slot canyon that never saw any sun. Good times!

  15. #965
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    Climbing Stoke

    thanks mang. my buddy just dropped me some more pics, here i am on the lead. you can see the light coming in at the entrance and iím headed up a crack in the face (small hands) with the other wall behind me.

    after this it just gets really 3d, stemming, under roofs, all kinds of shit. i want to go back already!



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    not to mention even more huge ass boulders that could have who knows what kind of goodies.


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    grabbed some wintergreen on the way out. a little foraged tea in a few minutes will taste even better while looking at these things.
    They got a name for the winners in the world

    http://procatinator.com/?cat=80

  16. #966
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    Got somefun granite and Sandstone boulders while waiting for swell
    Edit: the boulder looks exciting!
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    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  17. #967
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    .
    the forgotten limestone sport crags at China Bend. Loaded with .11s and .12s

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    "we all do dumb shit when we're fucked up"
    mike tyson

  18. #968
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    arc'tyrex made a nice film about the local crusher:

    They got a name for the winners in the world

    http://procatinator.com/?cat=80

  19. #969
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    ^^Fucking awesome man. Thanks for posting that.

  20. #970
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    some better pictures:

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    "we all do dumb shit when we're fucked up"
    mike tyson

  21. #971
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    finally got a day out at this old closed 70s cliff. very fun. led this old school ď5.6Ē crack, i was promised hand jams, but most of it was .75 or 1 so while a little awkward I was super into it. that size of tight hands is just harder for me than the 10a finger crack that was perfectly fun but so much easier for anyone gym strong.

    could see three little bump ski areas from the cliff, will definitely head back for some fall colors that were already peaking out.

    great half day
    They got a name for the winners in the world

    http://procatinator.com/?cat=80

  22. #972
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    another day off the beaten path didnít suck. this time eastern townships:

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    They got a name for the winners in the world

    http://procatinator.com/?cat=80

  23. #973
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    the classic 10- Trident at julien labedan

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    They got a name for the winners in the world

    http://procatinator.com/?cat=80

  24. #974
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    too late for a cool millbrook adventure, i checked out bonticou for the first time. there’s no documentation there and i didn’t have a clue where to go. ended up on some 5.easy with an old friend for a two pitch climb no one would ever bother to do again. not the best climbing day but a 10/10 day doing the scramble hike, exploratory climbs, and making a to do list for later. there’s definitely a reason we were the only climbers there, but still, being the only climbers is reason enough. plus some cool porcupines, black trumpets, and a 70 degree fall day.

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    any of you former gunkies know the name of that roof crack? supposedly an old jim munson line from the 1980's, i have no idea on the grade, looked 11- and FUN.
    Last edited by ml242; 10-25-2021 at 10:12 PM.
    They got a name for the winners in the world

    http://procatinator.com/?cat=80

  25. #975
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    Quote Originally Posted by ml242 View Post
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    finally got a day out at this old closed 70s cliff. very fun. led this old school ď5.6Ē crack, i was promised hand jams, but most of it was .75 or 1 so while a little awkward I was super into it. that size of tight hands is just harder for me than the 10a finger crack that was perfectly fun but so much easier for anyone gym strong.

    could see three little bump ski areas from the cliff, will definitely head back for some fall colors that were already peaking out.

    great half day
    bye bye hand crack RAGEVOMIT

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    They got a name for the winners in the world

    http://procatinator.com/?cat=80

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