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Thread: Climbing Stoke
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04-10-2022, 06:53 PM #1026
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04-10-2022, 09:54 PM #1027
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04-17-2022, 06:13 PM #1028
Climbing Stoke
Last edited by ex-powderbroker; 04-17-2022 at 07:14 PM.
j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi
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04-26-2022, 08:59 AM #1029
Trundling stoke:
j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi
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04-27-2022, 04:46 PM #1030
Just a 5.8, but scenic as fuck and the first real rock in years.
https://imgur.com/a/NzohLHX
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04-27-2022, 04:59 PM #1031
Never been but guessing Yellow Wall? Nice. Maybe this summer.....
j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi
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04-27-2022, 06:14 PM #1032
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04-28-2022, 12:47 PM #1033
To follow up - did 4 hours with a guide on otter cliffs shaking the rust off and tooling up the nerves. Phenomenally beautiful, and great grippy granite to boot. I will say if you plan on doing it in the summer or anywhere close to real season - do it midweek and try to go early. Even on a cold, overcast day with cold wind in the preseason, we had a few other parties there. I'm sure it's a gigantic shitshow in normal times.
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04-28-2022, 01:24 PM #1034
That place is cool, I got to climb there years ago. Only route I really remember is A Dare by the Sea. And I remember lobster boats motoring around below us as we climbed. Awesome setting.
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04-29-2022, 09:51 AM #1035
Yeah, Adair by the sea is damn coo. I remember Connecticut cracks and Maniacal on some inland crag being pretty coo too. But that was 25+ years ago. Acadia is fun
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04-29-2022, 10:52 AM #1036
So I always thought it was a play on words A Dare vs. Adair, but I've see it spelled both ways online so who knows. John Harlin's East Coast Rock Climbs shows the route as A Dare by the Sea, and it's spelled A Dare in a caption for a photo by Ed Webster in that book. Is there a better historical source that that?
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04-29-2022, 01:48 PM #1037
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04-29-2022, 01:58 PM #1038
Thanks for the history. I knew it was a play on words re fa author but never knew about the accident. Fun climbing over on the right coast all the way into Newfoundland
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04-29-2022, 02:00 PM #1039
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04-29-2022, 03:36 PM #1040FALL ON ROCK, OFF ROUTE, CALIFORNIA, YOSEMITE VALLEY
Publication Year: 1979.
FALL ON ROCK, OFF ROUTE
California, Yosemite Valley
On May 30, at 10:30 a.m., Laurel Munson came into the valley ranger station to report that a climber had fallen from Sentinel Rock. Laurel said that she heard falling rocks and yelling, saw a man fall, and came for help. John Dill responded and contacted Ben Ailes at the base of Sentinel Rock. Ailes was with the victim, James Adair (21). Ailes stated that they had been on the approach to the Chouinard-Herbert Route when Adair got off route and apparently slipped while trying to downclimb to the right ramp. At the time of the accident, they were climbing third class and wearing tennis shoes. Adair’s body was evacuated by stretcher. (Source: Ranger McKeeman, Yosemite National Park)
Analysis
Adair was an experienced climber (5.11+ Yosemite walls) and was climbing third class up the approach ramps to Sentinel Rock carrying a load. He got off above the standard route onto very loose and broken rock. He slipped and fell 300 feet to his death. To say that he was in error for not roping up in this case is incorrect, because the area is such that climbers do not rope up. Adair did not, however, follow the well-tramped “on trail” and quickly got into loose fourth and fifth class rock and did not turn back. (Source: Tim J. Setnicka, Yosemite National Park)
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04-29-2022, 04:42 PM #1041
Thanks for the info Yeah.
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05-04-2022, 08:07 PM #1042
cool stuff, yeahman.
stopped by a little bouldering area near revelstoke after work, quartzite or gneiss in the rain is pretty spicy. slick no pad slabs are going to get my head game up a bit if i keep running laps over here, but i’d really like to meet some peeps to get up those 15 pitchers at victoria lake.
j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi
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05-05-2022, 10:19 AM #1043
That last pic looks like a Jim Sanford practice spot. Practicing pocket creations...if'n ya know what I mean
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05-09-2022, 09:50 PM #1044
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05-11-2022, 07:51 PM #1045j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi
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05-16-2022, 09:32 AM #1046
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05-17-2022, 04:19 PM #1047
holy shit i got to do this today. just wow. the exposure is insane, because the creek has carved out such a canyon there. first pitch was a hair mossy but steeper than expected. buddy took the lead on that (10a) and then handed me the rope for the 4 star finale. i can’t say i cruised it. the arete is overhung and it was technical bumping a left hand while trying to find crimps and side pulls to do compression moves. in the end i have no idea how i did it or kept my shorts clean. 10c, really?
crappy butt shot of some the first pitch
complicating the climb a bit was the fact that getting to the anchor is a mossy steep chore. we left one rope fixed from a tree high above just i case but shenanigans put me in the house an hour and a half after expected. but who cares, that was fantastic!j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi
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05-18-2022, 07:44 AM #1048
Nice! 10c is usually a sandbagged rating, eh?...as it should be!! Hehe
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05-19-2022, 10:20 AM #1049
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05-19-2022, 06:04 PM #1050
Reminded me of the Gunks but with lots of trees.
Is it radix panax notoginseng? - splat
This is like hanging yourself but the rope breaks. - DTM
Dude Listen to mtm. He's a marriage counselor at burning man. - subtle plague
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