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Thread: Climbing Stoke

  1. #1026
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
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    outer spokanistan
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    1,010
    Lower Ledge Wall, Q'emiln: AKA Post Falls

    .... training for Mexico

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    "we all do dumb shit when we're fucked up"
    mike tyson

  2. #1027
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    Jun 2006
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    Ventura Highway in the Sunshine
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    Quote Originally Posted by ex-powderbroker View Post
    such a great spot above the pollution and in the woods.

    Attachment 410129
    Worth the climb just for this

    I agree it is a constitutional right for Americans to be assholes...its just too bad that so many take the opportunity...
    iscariot

  3. #1028
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Geopolis
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    Climbing Stoke

    stopped by poko on my way home just to walk the cliff a bit. it was snowing, raining and hailing today so no climbing but i really want to get on this. why? idk. i should know better than to go after ‘plusses’ in old school areas. protects with 3 #4s, 2 #3’s, etc.

    Phase 3

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    Last edited by ex-powderbroker; 04-17-2022 at 07:14 PM.
    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

  4. #1029
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    Sep 2008
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    Trundling stoke:

    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

  5. #1030
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
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    Nhampshire
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    Just a 5.8, but scenic as fuck and the first real rock in years.

    https://imgur.com/a/NzohLHX

  6. #1031
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    Never been but guessing Yellow Wall? Nice. Maybe this summer.....
    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

  7. #1032
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    Dec 2003
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    Quote Originally Posted by ex-powderbroker View Post
    Never been but guessing Yellow Wall? Nice. Maybe this summer.....
    Ha, exactly!

  8. #1033
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    Dec 2003
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    Nhampshire
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    To follow up - did 4 hours with a guide on otter cliffs shaking the rust off and tooling up the nerves. Phenomenally beautiful, and great grippy granite to boot. I will say if you plan on doing it in the summer or anywhere close to real season - do it midweek and try to go early. Even on a cold, overcast day with cold wind in the preseason, we had a few other parties there. I'm sure it's a gigantic shitshow in normal times.

  9. #1034
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
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    Last Best City in the Last Best Place
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    That place is cool, I got to climb there years ago. Only route I really remember is A Dare by the Sea. And I remember lobster boats motoring around below us as we climbed. Awesome setting.

  10. #1035
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    Dec 2006
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    15' from MT
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    405
    Yeah, Adair by the sea is damn coo. I remember Connecticut cracks and Maniacal on some inland crag being pretty coo too. But that was 25+ years ago. Acadia is fun

  11. #1036
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    Quote Originally Posted by tellybele View Post
    Yeah, Adair by the sea is damn coo. I remember Connecticut cracks and Maniacal on some inland crag being pretty coo too. But that was 25+ years ago. Acadia is fun
    So I always thought it was a play on words A Dare vs. Adair, but I've see it spelled both ways online so who knows. John Harlin's East Coast Rock Climbs shows the route as A Dare by the Sea, and it's spelled A Dare in a caption for a photo by Ed Webster in that book. Is there a better historical source that that?

  12. #1037
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    Dec 2003
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    Quote Originally Posted by yeahman View Post
    So I always thought it was a play on words A Dare vs. Adair, but I've see it spelled both ways online so who knows. John Harlin's East Coast Rock Climbs shows the route as A Dare by the Sea, and it's spelled A Dare in a caption for a photo by Ed Webster in that book. Is there a better historical source that that?
    I believe originally it was a dare by the sea, but renamed Adair in memory of Jim Adair, the first ascent, who died a year or two after in a climbing accident in Yosemite.

  13. #1038
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    Dec 2006
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    Thanks for the history. I knew it was a play on words re fa author but never knew about the accident. Fun climbing over on the right coast all the way into Newfoundland

  14. #1039
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    Quote Originally Posted by schuss View Post
    I believe originally it was a dare by the sea, but renamed Adair in memory of Jim Adair, the first ascent, who died a year or two after in a climbing accident in Yosemite.
    Interesting, thanks

  15. #1040
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    FALL ON ROCK, OFF ROUTE, CALIFORNIA, YOSEMITE VALLEY

    Publication Year: 1979.

    FALL ON ROCK, OFF ROUTE
    California, Yosemite Valley
    On May 30, at 10:30 a.m., Laurel Munson came into the valley ranger station to report that a climber had fallen from Sentinel Rock. Laurel said that she heard falling rocks and yelling, saw a man fall, and came for help. John Dill responded and contacted Ben Ailes at the base of Sentinel Rock. Ailes was with the victim, James Adair (21). Ailes stated that they had been on the approach to the Chouinard-Herbert Route when Adair got off route and apparently slipped while trying to downclimb to the right ramp. At the time of the accident, they were climbing third class and wearing tennis shoes. Adair’s body was evacuated by stretcher. (Source: Ranger McKeeman, Yosemite National Park)

    Analysis
    Adair was an experienced climber (5.11+ Yosemite walls) and was climbing third class up the approach ramps to Sentinel Rock carrying a load. He got off above the standard route onto very loose and broken rock. He slipped and fell 300 feet to his death. To say that he was in error for not roping up in this case is incorrect, because the area is such that climbers do not rope up. Adair did not, however, follow the well-tramped “on trail” and quickly got into loose fourth and fifth class rock and did not turn back. (Source: Tim J. Setnicka, Yosemite National Park)
    Apparently the accident happened just a few weeks after Jim Adair appeared on the cover of Climbing magazine, leading the route then known as A Dare by the Sea.


  16. #1041
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    Dec 2006
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    15' from MT
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    Thanks for the info Yeah.

  17. #1042
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    Geopolis
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    cool stuff, yeahman.

    stopped by a little bouldering area near revelstoke after work, quartzite or gneiss in the rain is pretty spicy. slick no pad slabs are going to get my head game up a bit if i keep running laps over here, but i’d really like to meet some peeps to get up those 15 pitchers at victoria lake.

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    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

  18. #1043
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    Dec 2006
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    15' from MT
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    That last pic looks like a Jim Sanford practice spot. Practicing pocket creations...if'n ya know what I mean

  19. #1044
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    stopped raining for a few minutes and i got three leads in after work. this was the best - easy approach and cool rock. The Hole 10b. climbing is fun.

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    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

  20. #1045
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    two pitch climb after work on lake revelstoke. you rap in and then get yourself out. pretty good adventure with some exposure at a moderate grade. stars aplenty, the kind of thing you could do again pretty soon after doing it for the first time, helped by these views of course.
    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

  21. #1046
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    blanket arete is calling me, go away rain.
    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

  22. #1047
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    holy shit i got to do this today. just wow. the exposure is insane, because the creek has carved out such a canyon there. first pitch was a hair mossy but steeper than expected. buddy took the lead on that (10a) and then handed me the rope for the 4 star finale. i can’t say i cruised it. the arete is overhung and it was technical bumping a left hand while trying to find crimps and side pulls to do compression moves. in the end i have no idea how i did it or kept my shorts clean. 10c, really?

    crappy butt shot of some the first pitch

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    complicating the climb a bit was the fact that getting to the anchor is a mossy steep chore. we left one rope fixed from a tree high above just i case but shenanigans put me in the house an hour and a half after expected. but who cares, that was fantastic!
    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

  23. #1048
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    Dec 2006
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    15' from MT
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    405
    Nice! 10c is usually a sandbagged rating, eh?...as it should be!! Hehe

  24. #1049
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    Mar 2017
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    SLC, Utah
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    Quote Originally Posted by ex-powderbroker View Post
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    blanket arete is calling me, go away rain.
    okay that looks fucking unreal.

    10c?? bolts/gear?? incredible

  25. #1050
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
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    19,209
    Reminded me of the Gunks but with lots of trees.
    Is it radix panax notoginseng? - splat
    This is like hanging yourself but the rope breaks. - DTM
    Dude Listen to mtm. He's a marriage counselor at burning man. - subtle plague

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