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Thread: Climbing Stoke

  1. #926
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    Quote Originally Posted by ml242 View Post
    got to finish up pitch 3 today, hereís someone else coming up after us. what a freaking cool rock!

    Attachment 377017
    beautiful, thanks for sharing.

    this pitch, while only 5.6 or so, is one of my very favorites in the Wasatch. I feel lucky every time I get to run up it.

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  2. #927
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    Quote Originally Posted by tgapp View Post
    beautiful, thanks for sharing.

    this pitch, while only 5.6 or so, is one of my very favorites in the Wasatch. I feel lucky every time I get to run up it.

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    So fun. That makes me really miss climbing.


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  3. #928
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    Quote Originally Posted by zion zig zag View Post
    So fun. That makes me really miss climbing.


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    Come run up it with me, man

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  4. #929
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    yah man! how about totems btw, i think i like my green the most. itís always getting placed!
    They got a name for the winners in the world

    http://procatinator.com/?cat=80

  5. #930
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    Quote Originally Posted by ml242 View Post
    yah man! how about totems btw, i think i like my green the most. itís always getting placed!
    Absolutely magic. Like cheating. They turn shitty placements into decent ones and decent placements into bomber gear.

    I have doubles in black thru purple and singles in green thru orange. I think I like yellow and blue the most.

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  6. #931
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    Quote Originally Posted by tgapp View Post
    Come run up it with me, man

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    I should....

  7. #932
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    Its in "laguna la invernada", there`s info for the access on mountain project. the approach is just a 2.6 km kayak straight to the wall so taking a lot of weight there is pretty easy.

  8. #933
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    whatís the route tgapp? i tried to find it in the green wasatch book, thought it could be ream crack maybe?
    They got a name for the winners in the world

    http://procatinator.com/?cat=80

  9. #934
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    Quote Originally Posted by ml242 View Post
    whatís the route tgapp? i tried to find it in the green wasatch book, thought it could be ream crack maybe?
    Pentapitch

    The first two pitches are (admittedly sandbagged) 5.6 or 5.7, the third is 5.8 (also sandbagged). Great climb.

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  10. #935
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    Quote Originally Posted by tgapp View Post
    Pentapitch

    The first two pitches are (admittedly sandbagged) 5.6 or 5.7, the third is 5.8 (also sandbagged). Great climb.

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    Sasquatch was one of my favorite leads in LCC. I had always heard that 5.9+ was the scariest grade in the canyon and I was super pumped to get it. I wonder if I could even climb it second without weighting the rope now.

  11. #936
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    Quote Originally Posted by zion zig zag View Post
    Sasquatch was one of my favorite leads in LCC. I had always heard that 5.9+ was the scariest grade in the canyon and I was super pumped to get it. I wonder if I could even climb it second without weighting the rope now.
    LCC 5.9+ usually translates to 11- in modern grade, especially for slabs. Cracks tend to be a bit more on point.
    Pentapitch is pretty spot on for the grade.
    "Your wife being mad is temporary, but pow turns do not get unmade" - mallwalker the wise

  12. #937
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boissal View Post
    LCC 5.9+ usually translates to 11- in modern grade, especially for slabs. Cracks tend to be a bit more on point.
    Pentapitch is pretty spot on for the grade.
    I don't know... I think Sasquatch is a little soft relative to other 9+'s in the Canyon while the first two pitches of Penta are a little sandbagged.

    Don't get me wrong - I still thing Sasquatch would be a 10a/b anywhere else, and it's a proud accomplishment no matter how you slice it. I just think that pentapitch itself feels like it has a ton of 5.8 climbing on the first two pitches.

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  13. #938
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    I'll be honest, I was never very in tune to what grade climbs felt like. Sasquatch is definitely my style of climb though, the Coffin was another favorite as that size crack just felt right.

    Speaking of slab, my favorite slab lead in LCC is the final link. Crescent Crack > Final Link > The Coffin = is a good day.

  14. #939
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    Quote Originally Posted by zion zig zag View Post
    I'll be honest, I was never very in tune to what grade climbs felt like. Sasquatch is definitely my style of climb though, the Coffin was another favorite as that size crack just felt right.
    There are only 2 grades anyway: sent and too hard.

    Quote Originally Posted by zion zig zag View Post
    Speaking of slab, my favorite slab lead in LCC is the final link. Crescent Crack > Final Link > The Coffin = is a good day.
    Truth. One of the best linkups in the canyon. Love seeing people on the slab, it looks so featureless from below... If I ever get back into it I'll go scare myself on that traverse start to Final Link.
    Last edited by Boissal; Yesterday at 03:39 PM.
    "Your wife being mad is temporary, but pow turns do not get unmade" - mallwalker the wise

  15. #940
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boissal View Post
    There are only 2 grades anyway: sent and aid.
    FIFY.
    Is it radix panax notoginseng? - splat

  16. #941
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    Quote Originally Posted by zion zig zag View Post
    I'll be honest, I was never very in tune to what grade climbs felt like. Sasquatch is definitely my style of climb though, the Coffin was another favorite as that size crack just felt right.

    Speaking of slab, my favorite slab lead in LCC is the final link. Crescent Crack > Final Link > The Coffin = is a good day.
    Did you ever get on Plumbline? Also a classic right up there with Coffin and Sasquatch.

    And 100%, I agree, Crescent Crack > Crescent Crack Direct > Final Link > Coffin is one of the best link ups anywhere.

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  17. #942
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    1984

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    these old school sixes all seem about as hard as any two-ply 5.10 bolt job from the last decade.
    They got a name for the winners in the world

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  18. #943
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    Which book is that?
    I raise you the 1975 description which calls it F6 A1, i.e. 5.6ish with some aid since the original line (Flashdance) goes up the horrendous 11+ thin crack (freed in '66 by George Lowe of course, the 1983 send wasn't the first). Looks like the modern line gets an F8 or F9 so 5.8 or 5.9.

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    "Your wife being mad is temporary, but pow turns do not get unmade" - mallwalker the wise

  19. #944
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    what would that be on the bear scale equivalent?



  20. #945
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    Quote Originally Posted by tgapp View Post
    Did you ever get on Plumbline? Also a classic right up there with Coffin and Sasquatch.

    And 100%, I agree, Crescent Crack > Crescent Crack Direct > Final Link > Coffin is one of the best link ups anywhere.

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    I've climbed Plumbline once, never led it.

    I like the spelling of 'Colpit' in that guidebook. Could be a misprint, but it's in there 2x like that.

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