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Thread: Climbing Stoke
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06-13-2021, 04:57 PM #926
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06-13-2021, 05:11 PM #927User
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So fun. That makes me really miss climbing.
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06-13-2021, 05:14 PM #928
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06-13-2021, 05:21 PM #929
yah man! how about totems btw, i think i like my green the most. it’s always getting placed!
j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi
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06-13-2021, 06:28 PM #930
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06-14-2021, 02:46 PM #931User
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06-14-2021, 03:20 PM #932Registered User
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- Aug 2014
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- Maule, Chile
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Its in "laguna la invernada", there`s info for the access on mountain project. the approach is just a 2.6 km kayak straight to the wall so taking a lot of weight there is pretty easy.
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06-14-2021, 03:22 PM #933
what’s the route tgapp? i tried to find it in the green wasatch book, thought it could be ream crack maybe?
j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi
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06-14-2021, 03:27 PM #934
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06-14-2021, 03:40 PM #935User
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06-15-2021, 11:34 AM #936
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06-15-2021, 01:43 PM #937
I don't know... I think Sasquatch is a little soft relative to other 9+'s in the Canyon while the first two pitches of Penta are a little sandbagged.
Don't get me wrong - I still thing Sasquatch would be a 10a/b anywhere else, and it's a proud accomplishment no matter how you slice it. I just think that pentapitch itself feels like it has a ton of 5.8 climbing on the first two pitches.
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06-15-2021, 01:53 PM #938User
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I'll be honest, I was never very in tune to what grade climbs felt like. Sasquatch is definitely my style of climb though, the Coffin was another favorite as that size crack just felt right.
Speaking of slab, my favorite slab lead in LCC is the final link. Crescent Crack > Final Link > The Coffin = is a good day.
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06-15-2021, 02:33 PM #939
There are only 2 grades anyway: sent and too hard.
Truth. One of the best linkups in the canyon. Love seeing people on the slab, it looks so featureless from below... If I ever get back into it I'll go scare myself on that traverse start to Final Link.Last edited by Boissal; 06-15-2021 at 03:39 PM.
"Your wife being mad is temporary, but pow turns do not get unmade" - mallwalker the wise
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06-15-2021, 03:32 PM #940
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06-15-2021, 03:38 PM #941
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06-15-2021, 04:22 PM #942
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06-15-2021, 05:32 PM #943
Which book is that?
I raise you the 1975 description which calls it F6 A1, i.e. 5.6ish with some aid since the original line (Flashdance) goes up the horrendous 11+ thin crack (freed in '66 by George Lowe of course, the 1983 send wasn't the first). Looks like the modern line gets an F8 or F9 so 5.8 or 5.9.
"Your wife being mad is temporary, but pow turns do not get unmade" - mallwalker the wise
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06-15-2021, 08:56 PM #944
what would that be on the bear scale equivalent?
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06-16-2021, 09:18 AM #945User
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06-16-2021, 04:34 PM #946
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06-16-2021, 05:26 PM #947
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06-16-2021, 10:07 PM #948
That rock climbing bear is classic. Reminds me of stories about Yvon Chounard and Royal Robbins, Royal would sail up a pitch and Yvon would have a bigger of of time following it because he was 5' 6" and Royal was 6' 1" or some such numbers.
Loving the stoke, I miss climbing. I am too old to do much, but I love the feel of moving over rock, so even low grade climbs are super fun these days. I had a chance to get back on rock a few times to take my gapers nephew out, but now the little prick is out climbing me by several grades, and going to school in Boulder and living the life.
I agree it is a constitutional right for Americans to be assholes...its just too bad that so many take the opportunity...iscariot
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06-17-2021, 07:58 AM #949
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07-04-2021, 04:16 PM #950Registered User
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