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Thread: Climbing Stoke
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07-27-2022, 09:32 AM #1076
My wife's third place makes me stoked.
Edit: not my wife's instagram. We don't do millenial
She has the 18month old on her arm. And still is stronger than girls 20 years younger. Three girls out of 6 have kids.
https://www.instagram.com/p/Cgd34BcDJJH/It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.
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07-27-2022, 02:17 PM #1077
congrats to mrs plague!
j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi
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07-30-2022, 04:54 PM #1078
went back to fa land to help my friend put up a new route in an area he’s been exploring in another cave system.
it starts with a handrail which you traverse on to gain an overhanging hand crack. when that narrows you flip around to an arete and then finish on an ow protected by a 9 pretty far from the anchor.
he sent it pretty fast like a boss but i found it pretty hard.
then we finished the day with an easier hand crack outside and picking half a nalgene of blueberries and raspberries on the way back to the car.
great day!
easier to find berries than the car when the trail looks like this
j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi
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07-30-2022, 05:23 PM #1079
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07-30-2022, 06:05 PM #1080
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08-04-2022, 11:43 AM #1081
Climbing Stoke
got a couple in after work. this was a real nice 10.
i belayed him on his project which went down pretty fast, hopefully there’s a video coming soon since he records like every route he does.j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi
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08-17-2022, 09:19 AM #1082
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08-18-2022, 09:15 AM #1083
heh, i can't even get a weather report to avoid sitting in a cave for an hour and a half in a downpour after work yesterday.
sidenote: sitting in a cave during a downpour with a buddy is more fun than a lot of things. Maybe I'm ready for the alpine?j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi
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08-25-2022, 06:45 PM #1084
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08-29-2022, 08:16 AM #1085
finally got on Interceptor at City after building it up in my mind for years and years - managed to style the lower crux only to pump out and fall two moves from the lip.
Ugh, next time I guess
Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk
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08-29-2022, 11:15 AM #1086
Such a sick route, you'll get it next time!
j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi
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08-31-2022, 09:10 AM #1087
i’m doing a multipitch tomorrow and want to bring a tag to shorten the raps. i’d also not want to lengthen the day by getting the ropes stuck. the tag is the edelrid escape rope so it’s rated for 2 lead falls and i don’t mind rapping on both or the fat single.
how much more likely am i to get the ropes stuck using it as a tag as opposed to a double?
i have rapped before on it as a double with an edk, is there any better way to join them and not get them stuck? the widths are 6 and 9.8 and the double fisherman’s has fucked me too many times.j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi
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09-01-2022, 06:08 PM #1088
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09-03-2022, 01:03 PM #1089
Never really noticed before but you're right. You'd think they could have at least included Whitney-Gilman or Moby Grape in that book just to have something in the East. Both meet their criteria of being at least 500 feet, and are total classics according to friends who've climbed them (I have not). Oh well.
Edit: Searching around I found this article on Climbing.com where they suggest adding Whitney-Gilman and adding/removing some others.
Out:
EAST BUTTRESS, MIDDLE TRIPLE PEAK, AK: A super-involved endeavor, demanding weeks of time and great expense, with extremely uncertain weather. The first pitch has been erased by rockfall, and a replacement line has yet to be climbed
HUMMINGBIRD RIDGE, MT. LOGAN, CANADA: The peak is striking. But the full line hasn’t seen a second ascent, and four people have died attempting it
SHIPROCK, NM: It’s a sacred site for the Navajo Nation. Though it’s occasionally poached, it’s been off-limits to climbing since 1967
D1, THE DIAMOND, LONGS PEAK, CO: The Diamond’s first route, but its seeping, hard free climbing at 14,000 feet and poor rock quality make some climbers question its inclusion
NORTHCUTT-CARTER ROUTE, HALLETT PEAK, CO: Rockfall wiped out the first two pitches in the late 1990s. It’s still climbable, but it requires a tricky traverse on poorly protected terrain
WISHBONE ARÊTE, MT. ROBSON, CANADA: A low success rate, dangerous approach, and choss make this the second-most-despised route of the Classics after Hummingbird Ridge.
In:
CRIMSON CHRYSALIS (5.8), RED ROCK, NV: Many climbers wanted some of the intense mountain routes replaced with more accessible, stellar rock climbs in the Southwest, especially Red Rock. Steck expressed regret for not including this area, but at the time, “We just didn’t know it, and no one was pushing it,” he says. The variety of crack and face climbing on Crimson Chrysalis now makes it one of Steck’s favorites.
WHITNEY-GILMAN RIDGE (5.7), CANNON CLIFF, NH: An aesthetic and prominent long route in the East. Hassler Whitney and Bradley Gilman climbed the jutting spine with no pitons or other protection in 1929; they merely stopped to belay whenever they found ledges.
MOONLIGHT BUTTRESS (5.8 C1), ZION NATIONAL PARK, UT: The most-requested replacement route. Moonlight Buttress ascends an obvious prow on its namesake buttress with perfect splitters cleaved into the upper sections. Free climbers and aspiring aid climbers alike flock here for a chance to tick this colorful line.
CASUAL ROUTE (5.10A), THE DIAMOND, LONGS PEAK, CO: A relatively accessible route on Colorado’s highest wall. Most of the climbing is 5.8 or 5.9, and the crux moves are well protected. Plus, the alpine environment still gives you a full-value experience.
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09-04-2022, 11:17 AM #1090
I'd throw these in the mix and if anyone wants to rope gun Grand Galets I'd be happy to jug it!
The Diagonal (Wallface):
https://www.mountainproject.com/rout...1/the-diagonal
Regular route (Chapel Pond):
https://www.mountainproject.com/rout.../regular-route
The Fastest Gun (Poko):
https://www.mountainproject.com/rout...he-fastest-gun
Armadillo (Katahdin):
https://www.mountainproject.com/rout.../the-armadillo
Pinnacle Buttress (Mount Washington):
https://www.mountainproject.com/rout...f-the-pinnacle
Grand Galets (Cap Trinite):
https://www.mountainproject.com/rout...ds-galets-free
Titties and Beer (Looking Glass):
https://www.mountainproject.com/rout...lds-hardest-58j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi
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09-04-2022, 11:41 AM #1091
i was on Gamesmanship the other day when this dude got tired of waiting for us to stop flailing. on-sited The Sting and then traversed across some pretty blank slab to get back on our route and then pass. i can not really imagine being able to on site these cracks. The Sting where he is in the photo is a bomber hand crack but getting into it you have the same weird start as Gamesmanship and then a finger crack traverse thing. The grades look modest but they are not easy.
it’s also weird when a free soloist asks to pass. i’d rather not add big loose objects over my head but you can’t really be like no either when they’re underneath you doing a chicken wing or something in the offwidth.j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi
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09-05-2022, 01:53 PM #1092
Climbing Stoke
stoke alert. first day took a bit to figure it out. second day was wet and i fell at the anchor. today i waited for it to dry and sent it first try. hitting the same route three times is basically something i never do but i think maybe projecting is for me.
this is roma, 4 star short 11- at weir. so stoked.
eta what a freaking perfect day.
Last edited by ex-powderbroker; 09-05-2022 at 08:50 PM.
j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi
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09-10-2022, 08:15 PM #1093
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09-19-2022, 09:28 AM #1094
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09-24-2022, 03:18 PM #1095
If you're on Instagram and not following Jim Thornburg you are missing out one of the best and most well traveled climbing photographers of all time. He publishes a lot of photos from his extensive archives and the work is outstanding, as is the selection of climbs he shoots. Highly recommended!
https://www.instagram.com/p/Ci5c4ozP...d=NDRkN2NkYzU=
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09-25-2022, 07:03 PM #1096j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi
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10-02-2022, 08:03 PM #1097
weir was all time today. 32 this morning but barbecuing on the face. nice to be back at the winter crag!
5 pitch 125m non classic: pataurage
super cool hard route to finish the day
foliage
don’t make me go to work tomorrow
eta: i hope everyone got out for nice fall sending. please let it be warm and dry until skiing arrives.Last edited by ex-powderbroker; 10-03-2022 at 11:58 AM.
j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi
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10-03-2022, 05:15 PM #1098
.
i've never been to the East coast,
i need to go ....
."we all do dumb shit when we're fucked up"
mike tyson
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10-03-2022, 09:37 PM #1099
That's a very nice thing to hear. There is a surprising amount of cool rock i've found here and some cool places to visit with good communities. the downside is that the season is shortened with rain/snow/bugs/heat/etc. if you ever wanted to come by i'd jump on a rope with you or any maggots anywhere.
BTW, that sport climb I shot of that girl in the first one has some (hit google translate) lol. I don't get how it was printed in the new topo before it had a FA, but I am calling it Le Gauchiste after I send.
The red tagging was a freaking plague almost as bad as the virus during covid, I hope the shit is done now, haven't seen them out lately.j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi
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10-05-2022, 10:39 AM #1100
Climbing Stoke
Last edited by ex-powderbroker; 10-05-2022 at 01:41 PM.
j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi
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