Climbing Stoke

[romeo tango]

since I started rope-soloing, easy slabs/walls have been my mainstay
Skaha has multiple options
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just a little more conditioning and I will be ready for some lead-solo
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Skaha has the best vibe of any big climbing destination I have ever visited

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[ex-powderbroker]

are you doing trs and lead? we have a big scene of peeps doing that near me, i f around with trs when i can’t find a partner but i never find it to feed well enough for me to be pleasant and i don’t do it often enough to dial in a setup.

hot one today, enjoy the lake.

eta: skaha is a big destination? it has climbers but i see it as a regional star, not a big destination like squamish / smith / yos etc


eta2: perfect weather all week so why not piss rain all weekend thx

[climberevan]

TRS with a Camp Lift and a micro Traxion below is smooth like butter with an instant catch. Some use 2x MTs, and a chest ascender works as well. You just need a light chest harness or neck lanyard up hold up the upper device.

I'd like to get my hands on a TAZ Lov for TRS, as it has the advantage of being able to lower without rerigging.

LRS is another ballgame, and no system is perfect. I'm dialing in the El Mudo, which is the only device currently sold for that purpose. I used to use a modified OG GriGri, but I'm hopeful the Mudo can address some of the shortcomings of the GG.

[ex-powderbroker]

yeah, maybe i should try borrowing some stuff, i really don’t want to buy more gear.

gg and micro trax is just meh

[romeo tango]

in my arbitrary, subjective and totally made-up climbing area rating system:
Skaha is big
Yosemite is huge
Ruth Gorge is mega

I take a reusable sandbag, fill it with rock/sand/dirt, and clip it to the bottom of my rope to keep it tight
(you can sort of see it in my first pic) ....
the Petzl Rescucenders I use slide more freely up a tight rope, no more pulling slack on a crux move, I just bump the device up with my hand


I used an OG Camp Lift for a few weeks. I wasn't impressed with the cam design and didn't feel comfortable climbing with it. YMMV
It looks like the design has changed since then, so, hopefully it is improved
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[romeo tango]

back from another trip to the biggest little climbing areas in southern BC ....

I was walking down a bushy trail and happened to notice a snake coming out of the grass.
it was beautiful shades of brown, tan and gold. easily a meter long and thick as my forearm.
I wasn't sure what kind of snake, so I kept my distance,
the three inch stack of rattles on it's tail clarified the matter ....
true story bro
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[yeahman]

That's some really nice looking rock.

[romeo tango]

that crag reminded me of Stone Hill
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[yeahman]

Yes! Very similar looking.

[climberevan]

Beautiful rock??

[climberevan]

I had to escape the heat, so I went south and up to Rock Creek. It's still hot during the day, but at least it's tolerable in the shade. I continue to hone my LRS system. I'm now leading only 1-2 grades below what I'd do with a partner.Attachment 496088

[ex-powderbroker]

was nice to finally get a day in. did la ligne jaune with a friend. it’s super historic as the first route up at weir, i think claude lavalee and ben poisson did it. these people are gods is all i can say.

first pitch 40m dihedral cool but not crazy trad dad stuff.

second pitch 5.5(lol) traverse with some huge exposure and danger if you don’t protect your second properly (i was not haha)

third pitch, maybe the only real chimney i’ve ever done. groveling and pushing up with your back on the wall just like freedom of the hills! it was freaking barbaric and hilarious how these pedestrian grades are soooo much harder than going up some easy modern sport bs.

anyway, there was a humming bird party when we starting. never seen so many in my life. apple tree at the base, no people anywhere.

climbing is just so good and terrible at the same time.








thought we’d get these 3 in by noon. nope! 345. oops.

[yeahman]

Liv Sansoz and partners climbing K2 without oxygen and flying off the summit...pretty impressive for somebody who started out as a teenage competition climber. Footage of the flight is insane. Bravo

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C-lHT...YxMzBwa2l4aGp2

[climberevan]

Wow, thanks for posting that!

[romeo tango]

that is beyond hard core

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[schuss]

That is the most bonkers thing I've seen in a while. I got gripped just watching it

[ex-powderbroker]

climbing is fun

[climberevan]

I've been enjoying the various longer, easy routes that have gone up in the past decade or so since I was climbing a ton.

Last week was My Favorite Things on Clouds Rest. 15 pitches, each like 55m long, soft ".10a" grading, huge slab runouts on every pitch. I climbed it with a guy I met 8 pitches up Main Line in Pine Creek (fixed lines for TRS are so fun!).

While we were in CO for Ms CE to do the Breck Epic I rope soloed Royal Flush, which is a real euro style "plaisir" route near Frisco. Soft 5.9, 8p, MANY bolts.

[romeo tango]

15 pitches ....

I'd like to climb some of that someday,
sounds like fun

[ex-powderbroker]

Welp, my former portaledge went up el cap.

https://www.facebook.com/share/KdZ33...ibextid=WC7FNe

Pretty stoked for these guys. Hopefully me one day.

[schuss]

Perfect 60-80 foot finger crack on a beautiful day. 4 pitch (linked 2) chill day in the sunshine. Love any day on the rock.

Buddy in the midst of traversing the crack with great granite feet.

[ex-powderbroker]

did a 4 pitch slab myself today. nothing completely remarkable about the climbing, nice enough for a perfect day.



but, the strangest thing was that the hike in passed this pond, and the herd path on the left was about a foot to two feet below the surface of the pond. sure it was wet but i can’t say i’ve ever seen water suspended over a downhill quite like this, it was completely bizarre.



we climbed all the way on one side because someone just opened the cliff and that’s where the shiny bolts are going in but there’s a lot of room for more than the 4 routes than have gone in, most of which would be much steeper than what we did.



left the city after lunch and completely blew the approach so maybe next time.

[ex-powderbroker]

how about steeper sport climbing?



this monster behind the little scramble was a 19 bolt 35m monster. Neither my ego or fingers can handle that much crimping and rope drag.

also had to check out the new routes so this is a more manageable size. the developers ropes are still up. was kind of cool



the new guidebook to this spot just dropped so it’s the most popular around these days. easy to see why with a bazillion sport routes, negligible approach, yadda yadda.

some other snaps with things to do later.

[romeo tango]

spent a few days climbing the semi-obscure crag Spring Mountain, NE OR
with a crew from the Commons Climbing Gym from Boise
perfect weather and excellent ropeguns

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[ex-powderbroker]

Ack, someone stole my rope bag from my car! Jokes on you, thief, I have ten years on that and that bag isn’t even comfortable.