Climbing Stoke

[yeahman]

Just finished reading Katie Brown's memoir Unraveled. If you were a rock climber in the 90s when she was a waif-like 14 year old winning the X games and international competitions, you may find this book as fascinating as I did. I had a hard time putting it down. One of this things I found most interesting was the amount of difficult trad climbing she did in her post-competition years. I guess I'd lost track of her by then. I also have a small connection to her because I worked as the editor of her 2008 instructional/inspirational book Girl on the Rocks. At that time, every interaction I had with her left me somewhat mystified. This book explains a lot about what was going on with her mental health at the time. If you're not aware of who she is, here's a link with a bit of info.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Katie_Brown_(climber)

https://www.amazon.com/Unraveled-Cli...=UTF8&qid=&sr=

[schuss]

Obligatory "can it please stop fucking raining now"

[ex-powderbroker]

super classic line called ochre i led



i cleaned this one which is quite nice, beezlebub. here my friends rehearses before his lead.



running out of time we moved the anchor to this mega classic trad adventure line on the west face of the aiguille. sounds weird to say about single pitch but you have hard face climbing or an easier dihedral to this cave, followed by an exit in this horizontal crack with no feet. you pull the roof and head across this detached flake to this baggy finger crack that gets wider and wider.

shot on rappel




probably posted this view before from the boulders



visiting climbers from magic wood



i love the rock here



five star half day

[andy m]

Nice looking rock. Your photos made me look up the Aiguille on Mountain Project.

[ex-powderbroker]

It's a really nice place. Mostly single pitch trad on anorthosite (basically granite). Some very hard face climbing and some of the only 5.14 trad in the east.

In other news, "International Climbing Day" tomorrow, free gym for me in the rain (free gym on a rainy day).

https://www.thenorthface.com/en-us/e...cid=6063d877d0

[ex-powderbroker]

my previous 11c project at Rigaud about to spit this guy off. from the ground it doesn’t look steep….

[ex-powderbroker]

couple classics today courtesy of john turner

sceptre



bastard



started to rain so while we were waiting under the massive roofs of mont king we found some other climbs. this thing led to an anchor where i top roped “gangrene” and obscure late 70’s chosspile i can’t imagine leading on gear. people are nuts.



kind of got spanked a bit but for the most part perfect weather and some good mileage working on jams. beats working.

nice gangrene photo:

https://www.mountainproject.com/photo/111420915

[romeo tango]

here's a nice TRS i like to climb when i'm feeling saucy!
the crux is traversing under the roof and engaging the exit crack
i actually remembered my camera!

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if you're passing through the idaho panhandle, be aware that the crags at Q'emiln (AKA Post Falls) are closed for the season.
an 80 acre fire burned through this summer and the closure is for hazard reduction/vegetation recovery.

another story i heard is that the fire burned close to one of the minor crags and there is concern that the glue-in bolts were compromised, so, the city closed all climbing
.

[ex-powderbroker]

who is ready for ice climbing?



(not me! …and this video is nuts)

[ex-powderbroker]

good luck to this guy

En Reprise a Radio-Quebec, 13b

[ex-powderbroker]

got a nice campsite by a small crag in nowheresville with some friends. we left some top ropes up on cracks and hit them after dinner for some laps by headlamp.

never done that before, great weekend.



had to get a shot from a good stance after pulling the roof into this one.



about halfway down cleaning. it wasn’t a big cliff except in fun value.

[ex-powderbroker]

color is coming in



did my yearly bouldering after getting beta for Swamp Dog



v1 onsight padless ascent



got roofied



more overhanging crack



i could do this every day.

[ex-powderbroker]

forecast says the epic five weeks without rainno bugs perfect temps is going to end soon. got out for half a day.

the classic Samourai (one of the best single pitch 10s around):



Sans Zen (11b if you’re a gecko):



Parcimonie (soft 11a i still haven’t sent on lead ):



Sunset (not sure of the grade):




I guess if it ends I can start skiing but does it have to?

[Bronco]

Nice weather for slab climbing out in Darrington on Sunday.

[Meadow Skipper]

Kid in diapers free solos.
https://www.instagram.com/reel/CyGqNsXrupe/

[yeahman]

^^They've got their hands full lol.

Nice climbing pics all.

[ex-powderbroker]

tried to do a link up on top rope solo for some cool pitches but my head was really screwed up today. people and dogs at the summit asking me if i was really going down there yadda yadda ruined my vibe plus i think i need to quit social media news and anything that isn’t family, tgr, climbing, or pornography.



ended up running into a buddy and even though sunset was in an hour he told me about a newly bolted 3pitch 7.

we hurried over and it saved the day.

i cruised it linking the last two pitches with a 70. i was pretty sure two seventies would get us down but we needed another 10-12m, the sun set and hilarity ensued.

stupid rain and wind this week so basically only the tamaracks are still waiting to go, they’re just getting started.

about halfway.



yup getting dark



dark


i’m going to miss climbing season. didn’t tick off any big adventures, no projects, nothing this year.

climbing > wrod

[romeo tango]

roofy
ledgy
slabby and
awkward ....

Minnihaha has it all!

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[schuss]

Got 3 trad leads down on lost horizon, then rain skunked the rest of the weekend plans. Anyhow, fun times.
Appropriately named "stealing candy from a baby"

[ex-powderbroker]

get it before the snow does

[climberevan]

I just returned from 3 solid days at Red Rock with my old alpine partner. Man, or was fun! We just did easy stuff, but a bunch of it. 12 ish pitches per day and solid approaches from 159 to the canyons, and I'm ready for a rest day.

[romeo tango]

used a rope, fucking wanker ....

https://www.yahoo.com/entertainment/...172816924.html

[Jeb McHardman]

Snuck in a late season alpine rock route today. Perfect conditions, great friends, and a classic line.

[ex-powderbroker]

beauty

[ktoor]

doope. what route is it?


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