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Thread: Climbing Stoke

  1. #1001
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    Sent the stand start of my 7C+/V10 project today. About 7b+/7Cish... V9Name:  IMG-20220129-WA0023.jpeg
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    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  2. #1002
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    Climbing Stoke

    very cool, great pics.

    how many sessions did you work on it?
    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

  3. #1003
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    About 4 sessions. First session was just earning Beta. In the second I actually tried to start linking stuff.

    The sit adds another 4 moves about 6b+/6c (v5?) ish but makes your Fingers a lot greasier for the small slopy crimps of the Crux. It's very technical and friction depending. And yet the boulder Crux has two very powerful moves. The one with the right Hand to where I am in pic 2 and the long bump to the good crimp further up right which involves cutting your left hook loose very slowly, placing your left tip a lot closer to your body and then going full on beast. You can see the last tick Mark. But you can't rush it because any swing while Lifting the hook and you can't stay on the Rock.
    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  4. #1004
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    Quote Originally Posted by subtle plague View Post
    About 4 sessions. First session was just earning Beta. In the second I actually tried to start linking stuff.

    The sit adds another 4 moves about 6b+/6c (v5?) ish but makes your Fingers a lot greasier for the small slopy crimps of the Crux. It's very technical and friction depending. And yet the boulder Crux has two very powerful moves. The one with the right Hand to where I am in pic 2 and the long bump to the good crimp further up right which involves cutting your left hook loose very slowly, placing your left tip a lot closer to your body and then going full on beast. You can see the last tick Mark. But you can't rush it because any swing while Lifting the hook and you can't stay on the Rock.
    Dang man, that's really cool! Congratulations on getting it & good luck with adding on the sit start. Thanks for sharing.

    Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk

  5. #1005
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  6. #1006
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    that is sick, but where? a college? i think i need to go back to school.
    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

  7. #1007
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    Quote Originally Posted by ml242 View Post
    that is sick, but where? a college? i think i need to go back to school.
    Local gym.

  8. #1008
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    No moon Board? Go with the modern times....
    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  9. #1009
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    That was cool, nice line! Do you ever wonder if a little gentle landscaping up top could keep the water running to the right place? Also - are there rock climbs there or is it all choss? Thanks for sharing that.
    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

  10. #1010
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    Quote Originally Posted by ml242 View Post
    That was cool, nice line! Do you ever wonder if a little gentle landscaping up top could keep the water running to the right place? Also - are there rock climbs there or is it all choss? Thanks for sharing that.
    Thanks!

    That's a crazy idea and I hadn't thought of it. I don't think that would be allowed. You're not even allowed to drytool there because they are worried about damage to some sort of endangered and/or endemic plants (I guess ice climbing is ok because you're not destroying as much). It's all choss, so even if it were allowed, nobody would want to rock climb there.

    One interesting thing is that people say that the climbs came in fatter before a house was built on top of the cliff. That might be true, but I think it has more to do with warming winters. It's like 50 degrees out today.

  11. #1011
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    This is kinda cool, saw it on Paul Robinson's instagram. Repeating a John Sherman classic in Hueco with Verm himself present. Dude is a legend and Robinson is a badass boulderer for sure.


  12. #1012
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    That was pretty cool, that is! I used to run all over the Aeolian Buttes looking for his problems. Found a few and a couple high balls with a little success but mostly just in awe of his accomplishments. I had better luck seeing some sage sparrows!! Long live The Verm

  13. #1013
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    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

  14. #1014
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    Quote Originally Posted by ex-powderbroker View Post
    Cool. Merci d'avoir partagé

  15. #1015
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    I'm streaming this tonight, could be cool:

    https://watch.eventive.org/bsdff22/p...242b0030abf334
    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

  16. #1016
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    [QUOTE=P.A.B.C.;6537375]When you're stuck in the flatlands and there isn't much skiing, sometimes you get lucky and you can go climbing:


    Great share - did not expect this in PA

  17. #1017
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    Dear diary,
    I FUCKIN SENT IT.
    4th 7C+ / V10
    Finally....7 sessions. Just before it gets too warm. Great day.
    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  18. #1018
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    Nice work! Completing projects is always coo and has a way of opening the eyes and seeing more prosperous future eh?! Kinda miss that shit..keep on gripping on!

  19. #1019
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    Climbing Stoke

    i’m in mexico city and got hooked up with a stellar guide. he picked me up, took me to the local crag he’s developing with 8-13+ and handed me a rack. I got 8 5.10’s in at 10k elevation, pretty stoked for a first day of climbing in 22. i was shredded and falling all over the place going for my 9th lead (was an 11). such a great spot above the pollution and in the woods.

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    if anyone wants a rec when they head down here pm me.

    eta: do you all size up a bit for high elevation or warm temps? my feet are wrecked and i’ve had my shoes forever.
    Last edited by ex-powderbroker; 03-19-2022 at 07:45 PM.
    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

  20. #1020
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    Climbing Stoke

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    ticked this thing today and it was fun.

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    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

  21. #1021
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    kicked off the season with a little TR
    .. manwhore belaybitch
    .
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    "we all do dumb shit when we're fucked up"
    mike tyson

  22. #1022
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    Quote Originally Posted by ex-powderbroker View Post
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    ticked this thing today and it was fun.

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    Looks awesome, where dat?

  23. #1023
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yonder_River View Post
    Looks awesome, where dat?
    Pena de bernal
    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

  24. #1024
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    Looks beautiful!

  25. #1025
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    Quote Originally Posted by ex-powderbroker View Post
    Damn that looks cool - especially that 10c, with 6 pitches that are 5.10 or harder. FKNA!

    Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk

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