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Thread: Climbing Stoke

  1. #576
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    SLC
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    889
    Quote Originally Posted by zion zig zag View Post
    And how did it? That route was so hard for me. The hangover portion just got me in the weirdest position.
    There are a couple new insecure moves to approach the flake, basically where you used to be able to hand jam against the block on one side and use the other edge as a mega jug. That section is now a fist-sized crack full of gravel and more lose blocks, it will clean up but for now it's a titch harder/more insecure as you have to make a slabby move and can't get gear. Placing the gear way out left in the flake is also harder as it used to be done sitting on the pillar. I could see people placing gear further in and getting mad rope drag from it now. And there's probably one extra move to get straight up into the flake as the stance is a good foot lower now. Overall it's still 9+ because of the crux above but it got a bit more sustained getting there.

  2. #577
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    889
    Some pics to start the new page, a bit of a season in review sprinkled with scenic shots (all from my phone so nothing spectacular):

    Choss Garden in Big Cottonwood Canyon, some of the best sport lines in the canyon:

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    Back of Beyond, BCC, sick black quartzite mixed lines:

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    Jungle on the Aquarius Plateau, beats even the Uintas for summer climbing (because NOBODY goes there).

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    FA of a dirty crack at the Jungle:

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    Obligatory shot of Lone Peak's Question Mark Wall from the top of Center Thumb:

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    Classic LCC granite slabbing on the Black Peeler

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    More LCC, Disco Duck and Strewn Masters of Gore

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    Solid flake 3 pitches up in Tanners, LCC; you have to yard on it, mantle it, place gear behind it, the works...

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    Slacklines in Tanners. These guys were having a blast.

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    The non granitic less solid parts of LCC: Devil's Castle (Horns of Satan) and Hellgate (Medusa and Hellgate Highway)

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    One of the best crags I've ever been to, with sweet spring options in the background:

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    Perfect Uintas crack and possibilities for next season:

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    And my favorite place to be, the West Desert! West Sawtooth Canyon, Candyland:

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    Upper West Sawtooth Canyon:

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    Notch Peak, the great monster:

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    The Anticrack:

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    Endless possibilities at Ibex:

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    The Blob crags and a very unimpressed dog:

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  3. #578
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
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    Ogden
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    Damn, nice work! ^^^

  4. #579
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    Oct 2003
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    closer
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    Nice pics

    Sent from my BLA-L29 using TGR Forums mobile app
    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  5. #580
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
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    slc
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    Quote Originally Posted by zion zig zag View Post
    Damn, nice work! ^^^
    No shit, getting after it!

  6. #581
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Tahoe
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    12,244
    the anti-crack looks awesome.

    Found some good new lakeview rock today
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    powdork.com - new and improved, with 20% more dork.

  7. #582
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    SLC
    Posts
    889
    Damn, Tahoe choss looking as good as ever!
    The anticrack is quite the feature. Very unique climbing, you're confined to a 2" wide strip, the face around it glass.

  8. #583
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    NAZ
    Posts
    474
    The sandstone and basalt down here has been a big shift from the gneiss and limestone of Montana but so far I'm enjoying it. A couple pics from weekend trips down to Sedona.
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    It sucks to suck.

  9. #584
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Zurich, Switzerland
    Posts
    315
    Amazing! Are alle routes bolted there? What is the character of the area (grade, bolting, people...). I would love to learn more.

  10. #585
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
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    The 8th best place in the LBP
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    Been some great pics posted in here lately. Awesome stuff.

  11. #586
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
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    closer
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    Last bouldering in the MurgTal before we get some snow in the northern alps next week.?
    Schwingerclub. 7c/+
    V9/10

    The name is fairly obvious when you do the big lunge for the jug.
    A funky toe hook/jam gets you to the slopey crimp and then it's just full on berserk mode.

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    Sent from my BLA-L29 using TGR Forums mobile app
    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  12. #587
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    NAZ
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    474
    Quote Originally Posted by LeoK View Post
    Amazing! Are alle routes bolted there? What is the character of the area (grade, bolting, people...). I would love to learn more.
    If you're asking about Sedona, almost no routes are bolted there. Because of the nature there are often bolted slab pitches linking crack systems or getting through the ever-present limestone bands. Overall, Sedona is soft rock, old school-graded, sandstone crack climbing. Plenty of other options for climbing in the area though.
    It sucks to suck.

  13. #588
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    SW, CO for now
    Posts
    551
    So many dope pics in here right now. Great stuff everyone!

  14. #589
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    9,185
    made this little tribute of the man for an obit of sorts

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    .....I hope you know that this will go down on your permanent record

    http://procatinator.com/?cat=80

  15. #590
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
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    9,185
    nasty

    .....I hope you know that this will go down on your permanent record

    http://procatinator.com/?cat=80

  16. #591
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    37

    Mt. Washington - January 12

    Summited Mt. Washington on the 12th in a group of three. Fairly high winds, about 50 mph, with gusts into the 70s, but clear skies and 100-mile visibility. Temperature was about -21 Fahrenheit at the summit, with a windchill around -60. Pinkham Notch to the summit and back in just over 8 hours. Only 8 groups on the mountain per the log and our observations which was surprising given the good conditions. Loads of fun.

    Also, apparently because I am a FNG, I canít add pics. Bummer.

  17. #592
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Boston
    Posts
    2,759
    Nice. Curious what route you took?

  18. #593
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    37
    We took the Tuckerman Ravine Trail to the bottom of the Lion Head winter Route, then up Lion Head across the Alpine Garden and back onto Tuckerman Ravine trail up to split rock and up the south side of the summit cone.

    Up took 5 hours, down took three. Crampons and axes from the base of the Lion Head to the summit and back.

    It was -21 with 50-70mph winds at the summit (so -60ish windchill) but visibility was 100+ miles.

    Gorgeous day for it; could not have had better conditions.

  19. #594
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    37

    Hereís a pic of us coming up above Split Rock


  20. #595
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Boston
    Posts
    2,759

    Climbing Stoke

    thanks for the stoke, thatís a great pic.
    Last edited by Self Jupiter; 01-24-2019 at 03:46 PM.

  21. #596
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
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    S-E-A-T-O-W-N
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    1,642
    That is hardcore.
    that's all i can think of, but i'm sure there's something else...

  22. #597
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Stumptown
    Posts
    5,751
    Wow. Nice work

  23. #598
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Posts
    9
    Badass!!!

  24. #599
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    9,185
    ice on the slopes, ice on the rocks.

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    .....I hope you know that this will go down on your permanent record

    http://procatinator.com/?cat=80

  25. #600
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    The 8th best place in the LBP
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    2,688
    ^^Wow. Where is that?

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