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Thread: Climbing Stoke

  1. #501
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    really amazing stuff.

    lynn couldnít make it today sadly. :/
    They got a name for the winners in the world

    http://procatinator.com/?cat=80

  2. #502
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    My Lynn encounter from years ago, went to climb Illusion Dweller at Joshua Tree and there was Lynn climbing up and down in purple lycra, filming a Nissan commercial. Naturally we watched the proceedings. When she came down she was very apologetic for tying up the climb. Seems like a super nice, humble person for a GOAT.

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  3. #503
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    I got a high five and "Badass!" from Lynn in Eldo last fall, even though our "badass" day would've been a cakewalk for her. Classy woman and one of the all time legends in the sport!

  4. #504
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    Quote Originally Posted by viglio View Post
    I got a high five and "Badass!" from Lynn in Eldo last fall, even though our "badass" day would've been a cakewalk for her. Classy woman and one of the all time legends in the sport!
    Ha, if you got a "badass" out of Lynn Hill, you musta done something pretty gnarly!

    So since we're telling tales of brushes with climbing legends, once I took a 40-ft. whipper (no lie!) from near the top of Love Stinks, a long, pumpy .10d at Owens River Gorge. There was a bit of a runout between bolts, and I blew the clip with all the slack out...went for a looong ride. It was a clean fall on overhanging rock, but as I hung on the rope trying to gather my wits a guy sticks his head around the corner of the wall and yells "woohoo!" None other than John Bachar.

  5. #505
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    Quote Originally Posted by yeahman View Post
    Ha, if you got a "badass" out of Lynn Hill, you musta done something pretty gnarly!

    So since we're telling tales of brushes with climbing legends, once I took a 40-ft. whipper (no lie!) from near the top of Love Stinks, a long, pumpy .10d at Owens River Gorge. There was a bit of a runout between bolts, and I blew the clip with all the slack out...went for a looong ride. It was a clean fall on overhanging rock, but as I hung on the rope trying to gather my wits a guy sticks his head around the corner of the wall and yells "woohoo!" None other than John Bachar.
    Haha that's awesome - was he soloing or on a rope for once?

    Our "badass" day was a big linkup of most of the classics in Eldo, something like 32 pitches and 4k' vertical in ~8 hours. We saw her as we were heading down from upper peanuts, she had just been cruising on the Bastille with a friend of hers and we chatted on the hike down.

  6. #506
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    Bouldering in Scotland and the peak district.
    Fun stuff... The wind blew my pad away while topping out the first line. Oh well.. the landing was Scottish bog anyway so I would have had no broken bones, but I would have been stuck in the bog up to my knees

    The proud peak arrete starts 6ft further down left in the hole. The pad only served cosmetical purposes because landing on it would haven been unwise in any case.

    The last Pic is a peak district classic "gorilla warfare". Lots of power moves in the v5/v6 Rang (I'm not sure about those outlandish grading systems )

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    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  7. #507
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    The newest sport crag in the northeast, very steep and very chossy.


    Lucifugus:

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    They got a name for the winners in the world

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  8. #508
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    stoked for a buddy that got his project on that big roof i was looking at earlier this summer:

    They got a name for the winners in the world

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  9. #509
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    man this line is so cool Click image for larger version. 

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    wish i had a belayer, off to boulder i guess
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  10. #510
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    Quote Originally Posted by ml242 View Post
    stoked for a buddy that got his project on that big roof i was looking at earlier this summer:
    Very impressive to climb that roof free. Consider also the first ascent by Ben Poisson, aid climbing in 1958 (quote from Gripped Magazine): "Le Toit de Ben is a 10-metre roof crack in Quebec that was established in 1958 by Bernard Poisson. The first ascent used wood pegs, a home-made chest-harness, a hemp rope and some wood pegs."

    Equally ballsy.
    "... Enjoy yourselves, keep your brain in your head and your head firmly attached to your body, the body active and alive, and I promise you this much: I promise you this one sweet victory over our enemies, over those deskbound people with their hearts in a safe deposit box and their eyes hypnotized by desk calculators. I promise you this: you will outlive the bastards." Ė Edward Abbey

    Love Jay Peak? Hate Jay Peak? You might enjoy the The Real Jay Peak Snow Report

  11. #511
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    i have been on a few poisson routes now and he and john turner were both on another planet. i have a copy of the first quebec guidebook where catharsis is described as a well protected easy 5. now you go on mountain project and people talk about 80-100 foot falls on the slab. for gamesmanship, turner said he put in 2 pitons for the 130 feet... in boots. i let my bouldering buddy who can sail up v8 lead that pitch and he had to backclean TWICE to get more gear. the athletic achievements we get up to these days are certainly harder than the old days, but everyone one of those guys was like honnold compared to joe climber walking out of an rei in the modern era. i wish i could get back to val d this weekend to do le poisson route at condor, but it will have to wait. and while iím doing that low traverse off the deck iíll definitely be thinking about these guys in hemp ropes hip belaying while i shove a cam in every 6-8 feet.
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  12. #512
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    "There is no such thing as a reach problem."

    Her quote has guided me down many roads in life.

  13. #513
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    Alpine sport climbing is pretty darn fun;
    4 perfect pitches, ~400' sustained climbing in beautifully warm temps up at 10,000' today!
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  14. #514
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    Teaching my 8 yo how to rap at the city. Click image for larger version. 

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  15. #515
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    "The Dawn Wall" in theaters tonight! One night only, nationwide. Headed out right now to see it.

  16. #516
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    Quote Originally Posted by yeahman View Post
    "The Dawn Wall" in theaters tonight! One night only, nationwide. Headed out right now to see it.
    I saw it in SLC tonight. What an amazing, historic climb!

    Such dedication, persistence, focus with a touch of crazy. I really enjoyed the film. I didn't know a lot of details about Tommy's rise to recognition, nor his unreal experience in Kyrgyzstan, which was obviously life changing. Lastly, the b-roll footage during the credits about how they filmed the climb was a feat in itself.

  17. #517
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    damn, you guys are really selling me on this.
    They got a name for the winners in the world

    http://procatinator.com/?cat=80

  18. #518
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    Yep, great movie, lived up to all my expectations. Follows pretty closely with Caldwell's book The Push as far as the backstory on Kyrgystan, his finger accident, relationship with Rodden, his years-long obsession with the climb, etc. The El Cap footage is truly amazing. I also liked the behind-the-scenes stuff at the end where they talked about how they filmed it over many years. That is dedication. Pretty cool stuff and worthy of all the accolades.

    Now looking forward to seeing Alex Hohnold's movie Free Solo. As a character he is not as interesting as Tommy Caldwell, however in terms of life-or-death achievement, free soloing El Cap is completely freaking nuts.

  19. #519
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    Does anyone use any of the digital guidebooks? Are any of them better than the others?
    They got a name for the winners in the world

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  20. #520
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    Quote Originally Posted by ml242 View Post
    Does anyone use any of the digital guidebooks? Are any of them better than the others?
    We used "Vertical Life" for our trip to Arco, found it solid, with some really cool features, but wished that we had gotten a paper book by the end. That said, at the time, they were basically giving away a free e-book for taking a 10-minute survey, so hey, why not?

    They seem to be working hard on improving the interface and the breadth of coverage, but it is definitely spotty at times still.

  21. #521
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    Quote Originally Posted by ml242 View Post
    Does anyone use any of the digital guidebooks? Are any of them better than the others?
    I've used SuperTaco a couple of times. They are just Ebooks but if you like the book format they work well. Easier to use as phone screens get bigger.

    Last year I got a copy of Tough Schist for renewing with CragVT. I already had a paper copy so they gave me the electronic copy on the app Rakkup. I like it. It has similar info as the paper copy but the format is different. You start with the map view and drill down to various areas. Quality depends on how the book was originally and how its translated into the app. They have a few demo sections to give you a feel for it.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using TGR Forums mobile app

  22. #522
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    sweet, thanks!

    a memory from warmer days this summer at potter:

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    They got a name for the winners in the world

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  23. #523
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    got to lead a heady old 5.8, voie de fritz, 1954 (he used two pitons?)

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    fall coming in fast

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    They got a name for the winners in the world

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  24. #524
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    Fall may finally be showing up here as well, had a great weekend out with the lady. Got to watch her start work on her first 5.12 and realize she can make all the moves which was super cool. Also, crag dog life is rough.

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  25. #525
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    Saw two guys sending the Zion Curtain while out on a run this afternoon. Tough to see if you don't know where to look. Leader is just getting to the top of the flake, belayer is visible on the ledge.

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    ETA:

    Pic of the route from Mountain Project (https://www.mountainproject.com/rout...m-and-hammer):

    Last edited by Dantheman; 10-01-2018 at 10:13 AM.

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