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Thread: Climbing Stoke
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05-05-2018, 11:47 AM #401
Climbing Stoke
all of the bouldering trails are rated r in val david. crampons next time for this hike. unless it melts out finally. can’t believe i’m hoping for it.
course, i am here for routes and they are golden.
checking out my future project zébrée 14a
first day on real rock, sceptre, 5.8+, stoke is high
tho the start was easier with this mound
pretty stoked
j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi
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05-12-2018, 03:56 PM #402
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05-15-2018, 06:03 AM #403
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05-22-2018, 02:57 PM #404
do you have any photos to introduce yourself with 1st?
Sent from my SM-G930F using TGR Forums mobile appi dont kare i carnt spell or youse punktuation properlee, im on a skiing forum
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05-23-2018, 11:03 AM #405
Decided to post a few pics of Montana climbing from my archives since most people probably aren't familiar with it. And, what the hell, I went to the trouble of scanning all these so might as well use them.
L to R: Flathead, Shoshone, and Nez Perce spires in Blodget Canyon, Bitterroot Mountains. For scale, Flathead and Nez Perce are about 1,000 feet high, Shoshone is more like 600.
Close up of Shoshone. Classic 5.8 standard route goes up the left side of the face.
Third pitch of the standard route on Flathead Buttress traverses out this flake and then goes straight up a 5.9 finger crack. The exposure is awesome.
North Face of North Trapper Peak in the Bitterroots has a classic alpine route that goes straight up the series of buttresses and open books in the center of the face.
Farther north in Kootenai Canyon there is some good overhanging sport climbing. I had a hand in bolting this route Clubfoot, which by today's standards would be considered solid 5.12a. Only 7 bolts but packs a punch.
Last edited by yeahman; 05-23-2018 at 07:10 PM.
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05-23-2018, 11:23 AM #406
so sick, thanks for the stoke. what years are these from?
j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi
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05-23-2018, 04:53 PM #407
Mostly the '90s when I was young and strong.
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05-25-2018, 10:17 AM #408
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05-25-2018, 11:09 PM #409
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05-26-2018, 10:28 AM #410
My buddy Matt midway through a 24-hour push to see how many individual climbs he can do.
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05-27-2018, 07:04 PM #411
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05-29-2018, 10:51 AM #412
ml242- Rad photos!
yeahman- Ditto. Damned impressive, too.
I ended up going to Eastside Sports in Bishop, trying on close to a dozen shoes (including the Acro wide), and ended up picking up the Otakis, which seemed like the most comfortable fit, in the same size as my Mythos. I haven't gotten them outside yet, but so far I hate the Otakis. After maybe four or five days of gym climbing, I still find it hard to weight my big toe, which is slightly curled, and I'm not used to the stiff sole. I'm hoping the fit improves with more usage and that I get used to them, but so far I'm regretting paying full price and CA sales tax on shoes I don't like.
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05-30-2018, 09:28 AM #413
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05-30-2018, 04:21 PM #414
Some of the best batholith bouldering in the country is just outside of Butte. I know they use to throw a big party down there every year, looks like it's still going on.
http://www.montanabouldering.com/
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05-30-2018, 07:12 PM #415
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05-31-2018, 06:01 AM #416
Climbing Stoke
raining in the gunks this weekend, black flies in the north. does anyone know an adirondack spot that stays relatively bug free? thinking about giving the poke-o slab a try if we miss the weather.
https://www.mountainproject.com/rout...7352/catharsisj'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi
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06-01-2018, 07:42 PM #417
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06-03-2018, 05:41 PM #418
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06-03-2018, 08:03 PM #419
^^Nice pics.
Tragic news out of Yosemite yesterday. Two of the best killed on El Cap, details still sketchy. Damn I hate to see that. RIP
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06-03-2018, 09:03 PM #420
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06-03-2018, 11:38 PM #421
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06-05-2018, 09:45 AM #422
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06-05-2018, 10:33 AM #423
There's some speculation going on that something might have come down and hit them (rock or a haul bag), although there are differing accounts and it doesn't seem like it was recorded. The details are pretty gruesome. We'll never know how much if any gear they had in because the rope snagged on the fall and then snapped. At best, it seems like 1 piece was likely. Speed is a really dangerous game. If they felt comfortable on the 5.7 pitch they may have been on so be it. I don't plug gear on 5.3... but I don't climb to get my name in the books (not saying they did either).
j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi
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06-06-2018, 10:48 AM #424
and honnold and caldwell shatter the two hour mark today.
j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi
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06-06-2018, 12:07 PM #425
Maybe finally breaking the mythical 2-hour mark will put an end to the Nose speed climbing insanity. Probably not. But who the fuck is going to be faster than those two guys? Nobody currently living on Earth.
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