Climbing Stoke

[ex-powderbroker]

all of the bouldering trails are rated r in val david. crampons next time for this hike. unless it melts out finally. can’t believe i’m hoping for it.

course, i am here for routes and they are golden.


checking out my future project zébrée 14a




first day on real rock, sceptre, 5.8+, stoke is high




tho the start was easier with this mound



pretty stoked

[ex-powderbroker]

building an anchor to toprope the mighty mont rigaud on the nicest day of the year so far. these cliffs are pretty special cause it sure is flat out there.

[ex-powderbroker]

lead all three pitches on arabesque. way better than going to work yesterday.

[Rossymcg]

Hi! I'm brand new to this thread, so I apologize if I'm totally messing up in where I'm posting this.


I'm conducting a research project about mountain/ rock climbing and why people climb (or what makes them stoked to climb), and your help is greatly appreciated!


If you are interested in participating in this research study, please contact me (Mira Cleveland) at
mira [dot] cleveland [at] umontana [dot] edu for participation instructions.

Thank you all so much in advance!

do you have any photos to introduce yourself with 1st?

Sent from my SM-G930F using TGR Forums mobile app

[yeahman]

Decided to post a few pics of Montana climbing from my archives since most people probably aren't familiar with it. And, what the hell, I went to the trouble of scanning all these so might as well use them.
L to R: Flathead, Shoshone, and Nez Perce spires in Blodget Canyon, Bitterroot Mountains. For scale, Flathead and Nez Perce are about 1,000 feet high, Shoshone is more like 600.

Close up of Shoshone. Classic 5.8 standard route goes up the left side of the face.

Third pitch of the standard route on Flathead Buttress traverses out this flake and then goes straight up a 5.9 finger crack. The exposure is awesome.

North Face of North Trapper Peak in the Bitterroots has a classic alpine route that goes straight up the series of buttresses and open books in the center of the face.

Farther north in Kootenai Canyon there is some good overhanging sport climbing. I had a hand in bolting this route Clubfoot, which by today's standards would be considered solid 5.12a. Only 7 bolts but packs a punch.

[ex-powderbroker]

so sick, thanks for the stoke. what years are these from?

[yeahman]

Mostly the '90s when I was young and strong.

[ex-powderbroker]

went to brush up some freedom of the hills yesterday

[sfotex]

Hey collective.


What say you, collective? Size up in the Futuras? Otakis? Miura VSs? Skwamas? Instincts? Butora Arcos? Am I being a pussy and do I need to power through the pain of the 43.5s for another few weeks?

***************************
meter-man: Let's get out.

I've got a pair of the Butora Acro in wide width and like them a lot. I also have a pair of Kataki for hard trad I sized up a bit that climb pretty well too. Check out the 5.10 hi angle and Scarpa Furia too.

[viglio]

My buddy Matt midway through a 24-hour push to see how many individual climbs he can do.

[yeahman]

A little bouldering sesh today at Sheep Mountain near Helena. Access road was closed so our climbing plans got thwarted but it was fun dinking around in the woods.

[AKbruin]

ml242- Rad photos!

yeahman- Ditto. Damned impressive, too.

I've got a pair of the Butora Acro in wide width and like them a lot. I also have a pair of Kataki for hard trad I sized up a bit that climb pretty well too. Check out the 5.10 hi angle and Scarpa Furia too.

I ended up going to Eastside Sports in Bishop, trying on close to a dozen shoes (including the Acro wide), and ended up picking up the Otakis, which seemed like the most comfortable fit, in the same size as my Mythos. I haven't gotten them outside yet, but so far I hate the Otakis. After maybe four or five days of gym climbing, I still find it hard to weight my big toe, which is slightly curled, and I'm not used to the stiff sole. I'm hoping the fit improves with more usage and that I get used to them, but so far I'm regretting paying full price and CA sales tax on shoes I don't like.

[old goat]

My kid in Red Rocks--

[mud]

A little bouldering sesh today at Sheep Mountain near Helena. Access road was closed so our climbing plans got thwarted but it was fun dinking around in the woods.

Some of the best batholith bouldering in the country is just outside of Butte. I know they use to throw a big party down there every year, looks like it's still going on.

http://www.montanabouldering.com/

[yeahman]

Some of the best batholith bouldering in the country is just outside of Butte. I know they use to throw a big party down there every year, looks like it's still going on.

http://www.montanabouldering.com/

Hell yeah, that looks like good rock and a good time. I might have to check that out this year.

[ex-powderbroker]

raining in the gunks this weekend, black flies in the north. does anyone know an adirondack spot that stays relatively bug free? thinking about giving the poke-o slab a try if we miss the weather.

https://www.mountainproject.com/rout...7352/catharsis

[mud]

raining in the gunks this weekend, black flies in the north. does anyone know an adirondack spot that stays relatively bug free? thinking about giving the poke-o slab a try if we miss the weather.

https://www.mountainproject.com/rout...7352/catharsis

The bugs own the dacks all summer.
Maybe long sleeves and climb fast.

[ex-powderbroker]

left some gear up for laura to try this 5.8 hand rail, 130’.




up above chapel pond on tillman’s arrêt.



bozeman bullet in dead water



approaching the anchor on warpath p1 on dead water.


nice weekend.

[yeahman]

^^Nice pics.

Tragic news out of Yosemite yesterday. Two of the best killed on El Cap, details still sketchy. Damn I hate to see that. RIP

[viglio]

My kid in Red Rocks--

FKNA that's a classic right there!

[MakersTeleMark]

^^Nice pics.

Tragic news out of Yosemite yesterday. Two of the best killed on El Cap, details still sketchy. Damn I hate to see that. RIP

Dude would fly out of Boulder at three something on a friday, pull out 2 laps in a day on el cap and be back at work teaching on Monday.

My day was boring. RIP.

BTW, I think his partner had over 100 NIAD's under his belt. Think about that.

[yeahman]

BTW, I think his partner had over 100 NIAD's under his belt. Think about that.

Yes, I read somewhere that he was one of only five people who have climbed El Cap more than 100 times, and all of his were one-day ascents. Undercover crusher of the highest order. As was his partner. Really shitty deal.

[ex-powderbroker]

There's some speculation going on that something might have come down and hit them (rock or a haul bag), although there are differing accounts and it doesn't seem like it was recorded. The details are pretty gruesome. We'll never know how much if any gear they had in because the rope snagged on the fall and then snapped. At best, it seems like 1 piece was likely. Speed is a really dangerous game. If they felt comfortable on the 5.7 pitch they may have been on so be it. I don't plug gear on 5.3... but I don't climb to get my name in the books (not saying they did either).

[ex-powderbroker]

and honnold and caldwell shatter the two hour mark today.

[yeahman]

Maybe finally breaking the mythical 2-hour mark will put an end to the Nose speed climbing insanity. Probably not. But who the fuck is going to be faster than those two guys? Nobody currently living on Earth.