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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    1,652

    PSA: Repair you own fucking edge compression

    That is all!

















    So with the recent rash of compressions, coupled with my own necessity, after purchasing cheap skinny sticks from a mag, to repair a compression that someone had previously repaired not very well.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Remove epoxy base patch.Click image for larger version. 

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    Clamp ski to something so when you hammer it, it does not delam furtherClick image for larger version. 

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    Using flat head screwdriver and hammer, use you zen like body man skillzz, to persuade the edge back into straightness.Click image for larger version. 

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    Mark width and length of base patchClick image for larger version. 

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    I can only insert 10 images, so to be continued

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    1,652
    I had to pry up edge and grind out useless edge screw headsClick image for larger version. 

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    Lining up base material for cuttingClick image for larger version. 

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    Remove base for your base patch and prep area. I had some space to take up between edge and sidewall, didn't have any glass, so I took a page out of splats book and went with doretech. You can see it under edge in photoClick image for larger version. 

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    Mix epoxyClick image for larger version. 

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    Heat ski locally, do not heat your pot/cup/whatever of epoxy, your just gonna make it fire quicker. Heat area and do what you need to do to get all components wetted out with epoxy.Click image for larger version. 

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    Insert your patch and a barrier so you don't glue to repair plate to your skiClick image for larger version. 

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    Clamp. Then I put mine with a ceramic heater blasting right on repairClick image for larger version. 

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    Christmas morning!Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by tuco; 02-25-2014 at 10:25 AM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    1,652
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Using a series of files and scrapers(your gonna love my heavy duty scraper)Click image for larger version. 

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    Work the epoxy/edge, base/edge until it is acceptable(just like welds, remove patch material from middle to the edges to clean it up.Click image for larger version. 

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    One thing to note. The base material I used had a cotton backing that required no extra prep. If you're using straight up UHMWPE without a backing; 80 grit followed by cleaning followed by flame treat.

    On another note, I always do a dry run, so I have no surprises when it's layup time.
    Last edited by tuco; 02-25-2014 at 10:52 AM.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    1,652
    If any of you use this information in a shop setting to fix a customers skis, you owe me an instruction fee
    Last edited by tuco; 02-25-2014 at 10:46 AM.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    1,652
    Didn't actually need this reserved space, so I'm gonna use it to tell Roj to fuck off!
    Last edited by tuco; 02-25-2014 at 10:48 AM.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Posts
    127
    Interested in seeing the completion of this....

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    inpdx
    Posts
    12,142
    interested in this, thx for posting it up





    (ps, any chance at getting these imgs online so that they're posted inline with the text?)

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    1,652
    I tried to do it that way. My computer skills aren't the greatest, that is just how they came out. Sorry.
    Also not sure why the pictures are small, fuck.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    here and there
    Posts
    15,358
    Solid skillz, well done.
    watch out for snakes

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Somewhere else
    Posts
    3,721
    Sweetness.

    Saran wrap is a good barrier that epoxy won't cure to.
    Goal: ski in the 2018/19 season

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    770
    nice job!!

    that finished job looks so much better than my ghetto efforts

  12. #12
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Posts
    29,687
    Hey, Tuco, well done. One tool I might interest you in for repairs like this is to sand a blade edge at the square end of a file. Those things are tempered strong and that edge makes a killer splitter/scraper for working in those small gaps. Feather it out over an inch or two so it gets thin at the sharp point. It's a nice arrow in the quiver.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    1,652
    Quote Originally Posted by dcpnz View Post
    nice job!!

    that finished job looks so much better than my ghetto efforts
    I was a shop rat for 10 years in a shop known for edge repair/replace. This wasn't my first rodeo.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    YetiMan
    Posts
    10,911
    U fixxor teh sidewallz. I fixxor teh thredz.

    Tuco: if you want to just quote my posts, then edit your OP...then a mod could nuke my posts and you have big images up with the OP.

    Mods: if OP gets big photos up on the first posts, these can go away.




    So with the recent rash of compressions, coupled with my own necessity, after purchasing cheap skinny sticks from a mag, to repair a compression that someone had previously repaired not very well.












    Remove epoxy base patch.



    Clamp ski to something so when you hammer it, it does not delam further



    Using flat head screwdriver and hammer, use your zen like body man skillzz, to persuade the edge back into straightness.



    Mark width and length of base patch





    I can only insert 10 images, so to be continued

    husky latin women
    Last edited by ill-advised strategy; 02-25-2014 at 02:22 PM. Reason: fixin shit

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    YetiMan
    Posts
    10,911
    Husky Latin Women

    I had to pry up edge and grind out useless edge screw heads



    Lining up base material for cutting



    Remove base for your base patch and prep area. I had some space to take up between edge and sidewall, didn't have any glass, so I took a page out of splats book and went with doretech. You can see it under edge in photo



    Mix epoxy



    Heat ski locally, do not heat your pot/cup/whatever of epoxy, your just gonna make it fire quicker. Heat area and do what you need to do to get all components wetted out with epoxy.



    Insert your patch and a barrier so you don't glue to repair plate to your ski





    Clamp. Then I put mine with a ceramic heater blasting right on repair





    Christmas morning!

    Last edited by ill-advised strategy; 02-25-2014 at 02:23 PM. Reason: fixin shit

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    YetiMan
    Posts
    10,911
    HUSKY LATIN WOMEN!!!




    Using a series of files and scrapers(your gonna love my heavy duty scraper)





    Work the epoxy/edge, base/edge until it is acceptable(just like welds, remove patch material from middle to the edges to clean it up.







    One thing to note. The base material I used had a cotton backing that required no extra prep. If you're using straight up UHMWPE without a backing; 80 grit followed by cleaning followed by flame treat.

    On another note, I always do a dry run, so I have no surprises when it's layup time.
    Last edited by ill-advised strategy; 02-25-2014 at 02:23 PM. Reason: embiggening photos

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Juneau
    Posts
    818
    Excellent thread, thanks.

    Damn, don't think I fucked YetiMan's improved layout, but if I did, . . . .

  18. #18
    spook Guest
    thanks for posting this. i feel less nervous about having to fix my apparently fragile board.

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    YetiMan
    Posts
    10,911
    Quote Originally Posted by dschane View Post
    Excellent thread, thanks.

    Damn, don't think I fucked YetiMan's improved layout, but if I did, . . . .
    nothing is fucked here

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    1,652
    Quote Originally Posted by splat View Post
    Hey, Tuco, well done. One tool I might interest you in for repairs like this is to sand a blade edge at the square end of a file. Those things are tempered strong and that edge makes a killer splitter/scraper for working in those small gaps. Feather it out over an inch or two so it gets thin at the sharp point. It's a nice arrow in the quiver.
    Thanks man! At first I thought you were going to be mad at my patent infrigement
    Quote Originally Posted by YetiMan View Post
    U fixxor teh sidewallz. I fixxor teh thredz.

    Tuco: if you want to just quote my posts, then edit your OP...then a mod could nuke my posts and you have big images up with the OP.

    Mods: if OP gets big photos up on the first posts, these can go away.
    Fuck yeah Yeti, that was my intention. If it weren't for this site, my computer skills would even be more archaic.
    Maybe I'll just delete my posts, so people think that shitshow of a garage is yours.
    Thanks dood!

  21. #21
    spook Guest
    at some point you can't fix a compression, though, right? doesn't it affect the structural integrity of the ski?

  22. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    1,652
    Shoudn't. But that depends on how much damage your core may have incurred with the compression. Fixed quite a few Rossi and Dynastars(foam core in those days) and the 1st generation Salomon monocoque skis.

  23. #23
    spook Guest
    oh right. EDGE compression. i was thinking something super deep.

  24. #24
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Wet Coast
    Posts
    737
    Great thread Tuko. Those clamps and ceramic heater look like they came outta my shop..
    I like to pry open the delamed edge with a tool like the one Splat suggests then shove toothpicks in the gap to keep it open. Then with the ski on edge i will use a very fine brush to paint the epoxy down into the gap. Pull the toothpicks out being careful not to break the tips off inside then proceed with the rest of the patch. On a larger repair or when adding new edge i will do it in 2 steps. Epoxy and clamp the edge, then clean things up after its set and then epoxy a patch in.
    You dont stop playing because you grow old, you grow old because you stop playing

  25. #25
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    1,652
    Quote Originally Posted by vanisle View Post
    Great thread Tuko. Those clamps and ceramic heater look like they came outta my shop..
    I like to pry open the delamed edge with a tool like the one Splat suggests then shove toothpicks in the gap to keep it open. Then with the ski on edge i will use a very fine brush to paint the epoxy down into the gap. Pull the toothpicks out being careful not to break the tips off inside then proceed with the rest of the patch. On a larger repair or when adding new edge i will do it in 2 steps. Epoxy and clamp the edge, then clean things up after its set and then epoxy a patch in.
    Hell yeah man, hopefully we get a bunch of good info here in one resource.
    My preferred tool is an oyster shucking knife. I do have something pretty close, it just a little bigger. I insert it between edge and sidewall and pry the delam open and closed, using a toothpick or similar to pick up the epoxy(for small repairs). For bigger use a small mixing cup,like the kind that come with childrens medicine and pour into open delam, all while flashing the heat gun locally on general repair area(not to close or slow) reducing the viscosity of the epoxy. Prying it open and closed works the epoxy into all the crevices. I always try to find a way to do it in one layup, if at all possible.

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