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  1. #101
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    17
    Hey man just wanted to follow up, any further advice?

  2. #102
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    17
    Quote Originally Posted by tuco View Post
    If you're bound and determined I'll give a better response later. Carbon wrap will be a waste of time & $ though.
    Hey man, I just wanted to follow up on this! I appreciate the help!

  3. #103
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Nottingham, UK
    Posts
    918
    Just finished this repair:

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  4. #104
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    21
    I wanted to follow up and show the repair of my splitboard that suffered a core shot that cracked the core and edge for the benefit of anyone considering a similar repair. You can see a description and photos of the damage here: https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...42#post5640742

    After some really helpful suggestions and warnings from tuco, ctsmith, dtruser, and fatnslow, I decided to attempt a repair. It seems like the repair is holding so far (knock on wood) after a handful of days in the backcountry and a couple of hours in bounds.

    Materials:
    Carbon fiber cloth (a cheap biaxial carbon fiber swatch I found on ebay)
    G/Flex 650 epoxy
    ptex base patch (https://www.tognar.com/p-tex-ski-base-patch-material/)
    small square of thin closed cell foam from hobby store (to pad the base when clamped to even out forces while drying)

    Tools:
    Paint scraper
    Utility Knife
    Exacto knife
    Epoxy squeegee (diy made from some flexible plastic from takeout lids)
    Power sander / sand paper
    Masking/painter tape (for taping the cut area of the carbon fiber to prevent edge fray)
    flathead screwdriver and various pliers (for prying and bending the edge back flat).
    dremmel (to remove rust from areas of the steel edge )

    1. First, I peeled off some of the base to inspect the damage. It looks like a core shot crushed a small area of core near the edge and cracked the edge. The wood core and bottom layer of fiberglass eventually cracked about half way across the "ski" (one side of the splitboard) after a couple of seasons of use (when I noticed the base repairs falling out and ptex starting to crack across the base)

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    2. It took me a long time to peel off the ptex base from the board but I probably did more work than I needed to. The ptex was stubborn to come off. If I had to do it again, I would probably use a heated scraper / knife to hot scrape as much of the base off as possible. I ended up sanding the fiberglass and core anyway, so it didn't matter if some bits of base remained. My painfully slow method: cutting small strips and peeling the strips by paint scraper and twisting the strip around a pair of needle nose pliers (think opening old fashioned sardine can by twisting the can top sheet around a metal "key"). The black parts of ptex were harder, and I basically had to paint scrape them off milimeter by milimeter.

    I used part of a dinner plate to outline the area of base to extract and also cut the base patch. I cut a big area because I wanted a lot of area for the carbon cloth to reinforce the crack.

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    3. I sanded a sort of shallow crater into the area so that I could add multiple layers of carbon cloth. I started with a smaller patch of carbon cloth in the middle (deepest part of the crater) and then added progressively larger patches that eventually covered the area I had cut out of the base. I ended up with 4 layers of carbon in the center ending with 1 layer of carbon at the outer edge. That would hopefully make the patch progressive in flex.

    I taped the edges of the carbon fiber cloth before I cut it with masking/painters tape to prevent fraying. I cut the carbon cloth with an exacto knife. However, it was difficult to pull the tape off, so I ended up soaking the carbon and tape in alcohol, sliding the tape off, and drying out the cloth.

    I also pried away some of the cracked edge from the core so I could bend it back and both sides of the cracked edge sat flush and flat against the core. Most people seemed to suggest not replaced an edge section unless necessary (creating 2 cuts in the edge where there is 1). I also dremmeled off some rust from areas of the edge.

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    4. Finally, I mixed some epoxy and layered on alternating coats of epoxy and carbon fiber cloth. I used a DIY squeegee to make sure each layer of carbon cloth was wetted out with epoxy. Finally I layered on the ptex base patch that I had cut to match to cut out of the base. I clamped the whole thing together using two pieces of flat wood and some c-clamps with a thin piece of closed cell foam covering the base. I left it for 48 hours. I would suggest possibly covering the board with plastic bag before clamping it between the wood. My wood got epoxied to the board.

    When I finally removed the clamps, I did realize that my ptex patch had slipped a tiny bit. One edge of the patch had ridden up onto the original base and the other side had a tiny gap filled by epoxy. Once I sanded it down, it wasn't a big deal, however.

    I used a "clear" ptex patch so I could hopefully see any cracking in my repair as it starts.

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    So far, the repair seems to be holding. I don't notice a difference in stiffness when I'm riding, but I'm not super sensitive to that kind of thing. I will emphasize that I'm a light rider ( 140lbs), mostly ride my splitboard in powder, and I don't stomp gigantic features. I probably don't stress my board as much as some, and I won't be touring far from the car anytime soon. In fact, it took me a couple of seasons to notice that a crack in the core was spreading from a core shot. I can also tour on my skis if I run into problems with my spitboard. I'll update if I encounter a catastrophic failure in the future.

    Was it worth it? It depends. There's definitely some time and stress involved even though the project seems simple. I did learn a lot, and I would like to eventually build my own diy splitboard. If I get a core shot on a board/skis that I really care about in the future, I might consider doing a repair like this before things get worse.

  5. #105
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Posts
    1,453

    PSA: Repair you own fucking edge compression

    Ok I hate the search function. Iím certain this has been covered but I canít find it. I have a tail separation Iím trying to fix. I epoxied it back together but it split again. Trying a second time.

    Do we like JB Weld or West System G Flex? Itís about 1.5Ē wide and .75Ē into the ski. Nothing really broken, just a separation, though the edge is bent at the separation.

  6. #106
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    LV-426
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    Quote Originally Posted by beece View Post
    Ok I hate the search function. Iím certain this has been covered but I canít find it. I have a tail separation Iím trying to fix. I epoxied it back together but it split again. Trying a second time.

    Do we like JB Weld or West System G Flex? Itís about 1.5Ē wide and .75Ē into the ski. Nothing really broken, just a separation, though the edge is bent at the separation.
    Post some pics.

    This might be a good use of a T nut or similar bolt to hold it together.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  7. #107
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Posts
    1,453
    Quote Originally Posted by El Chupacabra View Post
    Post some pics.

    This might be a good use of a T nut or similar bolt to hold it together.
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    Thanks for any thoughts. It’s the tail of a twin tip Prodigy Faction W. If you scroll down about 10-15 posts you can see what it looked like before I epoxied it last time. It got worse when it re-popped.
    Last edited by beece; 02-09-2020 at 10:32 AM.

  8. #108
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Location
    Montana
    Posts
    226
    you gotta get the edge back into shape, clean out what looks like damaged core wood and replace with fiberglass matting if the void is too much

    i'm a fan of g-flex for most all ski repairs

  9. #109
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Posts
    1,453
    Quote Originally Posted by detuned View Post
    you gotta get the edge back into shape, clean out what looks like damaged core wood and replace with fiberglass matting if the void is too much

    i'm a fan of g-flex for most all ski repairs
    Thanks. Just ordered some g flex and will be clamping it up this week. Thanks.

  10. #110
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Posts
    61
    [QUOTEThis might be a good use of a T nut or similar bolt to hold it together.][/QUOTE]

    I was thinking possibly rivets. Anyone recall K2 Public Enemy, park skis, looked like they had rivets tip and tail. Or just cosmetic I dunno.

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    I have similar tail damage/delam and can't get the edge to lay down flat. I have it pretty clean sand blasted and confident the epoxy will hold, but don't like the idea of that metal wanting to push it all apart after. Any thoughts there?
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  11. #111
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    1,460
    Quote Originally Posted by unclebill View Post
    [QUOTEThis might be a good use of a T nut or similar bolt to hold it together.]
    I was thinking possibly rivets. Anyone recall K2 Public Enemy, park skis, looked like they had rivets tip and tail. Or just cosmetic I dunno.

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    I have similar tail damage/delam and can't get the edge to lay down flat. I have it pretty clean sand blasted and confident the epoxy will hold, but don't like the idea of that metal wanting to push it all apart after. Any thoughts there?
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    Get the smallest nut/bolt you can buy at the hadware store, drill a hole through the edge tab(s) through to the top of ski, then bolt it down with the nuts on the top side, seal top with epoxy, then repair the base over the head of the nut(s) at the edge. I don't know if the base repair will require cutting out the loose piece or just epoxy under the base material. My buddy has done quite few repairs like this on his kid's park skis for broken edges on tips/tails with good success. the base repair is not a huge concern since it's not actual running surface, you just need to make it water tight to prevent base delam from traveling.

  12. #112
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    LV-426
    Posts
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    The Public Enemy skis did have rivet like things going through the tips and tails. Don't know how much was structural reinforcement vs fashion.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  13. #113
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Location
    Montana
    Posts
    226
    the bent portion of the edge doesn't look too bent out of shape

    bash it back to shape with a hammer and a 2x4 underneath

    then fill with epoxy/glass as needed and clamp

  14. #114
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Posts
    61
    Quote Originally Posted by detuned View Post
    the bent portion of the edge doesn't look too bent out of shape

    bash it back to shape with a hammer and a 2x4 underneath

    then fill with epoxy/glass as needed and clamp
    Thats correct it isn't bent that bad, but just banging on it won't get it straight. Its like a spring and there is no room to bend it down the other way enough to get the bend out of it.

  15. #115
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Posts
    1,453
    Quote Originally Posted by unclebill View Post
    Thats correct it isn't bent that bad, but just banging on it won't get it straight. Its like a spring and there is no room to bend it down the other way enough to get the bend out of it.
    On those Factions just below your photo I just G Flexed it and clamped the hell out of it. It held upon clamp removal a day and a half later, but we shall see if it stays during use.

  16. #116
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Posts
    61
    Epoxy, clamp and hope is easy enough to try also. But I do like the idea of trying for a better chance to make it permanent by having that edge pinched down. Possibly like an add on tip protector. Or tail protector in this case. Does it exist? I'm going to look into it.

  17. #117
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Posts
    1,453

    PSA: Repair you own fucking edge compression

    Let us know if you find something.

  18. #118
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Posts
    61
    Thinking something like this but haven't found it yet

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  19. #119
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Aspen
    Posts
    848
    Bump. Looking to do a repair like jindustry did, but on an old Rossi monoski. I only had it out one day then the edge blew and the sheet of base material detached.

    Any suggestions for re-adhering the sheet of base material once I fix the edge? Just a bunch of epoxy spread out?

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  20. #120
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Aspen
    Posts
    848
    Bump. Anybody have thoughts on re-adhering base sheets?

  21. #121
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    NWCT
    Posts
    2,020
    Fellow dentists, Iím repairing my beloved Spatulas and I need advice. As you can see in the pics, Iíve cut out the base and am ready to patch, but Iím trying to figure out what to do with the cracked metal in the core. My plan was to pry the crack open and flood it with g-flex, screw it down with a few base screws, and then g-flex over everything and patch with base material. The main issue I see here is that the heads of the screws could keep the base patch from sitting flush.
    Other option is to cut out the cracked metal with a dremmel and then patch, but not sure how thatíll affect the strength of the ski or if the crack will spread once the ski is deeply flexed once itís all back together and on snow. Maybe I could drill a small hole through the metal at the end of the crack to keep it frown spreading, like you would on a ski boot?
    I donít ski these a ton, but get out on them 3-4 times a year for Shaneís sake and want to keep them alive. What say you?

    Pics

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    The tip of the knife blade shows how far the crack goes

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  22. #122
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    VT
    Posts
    149
    What if you pried the crack open, flood it with Gflex, but then skip the screws and just clamp the metal with a plastic bag over the Gflex and metal (so it doesnít bond)then a block of wood that fits in the patch area to clamp to?

  23. #123
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Somewhere else
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    I wonder if the epoxy would have trouble bonding to the rust?

    I'd grind off any rust before epoxy, and because that would be hard to get off the under side of that flap, I'd probably just cut it out.

    But I'm not the expert here so YMMV.

    Sent from my SM-A505W using Tapatalk
    Goal: ski in the 2018/19 season

  24. #124
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    Sep 2004
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    LV-426
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    Por15 is my go to for treating rusty metal, but I've never used it on skis. You'd want to wire wheel or grind (flap disc) off as much loose rust as you can.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  25. #125
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    NWCT
    Posts
    2,020

    PSA: Repair you own fucking edge compression

    Fair point - Iím on it with the rust. Iím kind of leaning towards cutting out the cracked metal. I donít think epoxying without screwing will work because itíll likely pop loose the first time I deeply flex the ski and thatíll also pop out the base repair. But on a ski like the Spat where the metal is pretty essential to the integrity of the ski, is cutting out a piece directly underfoot a bad idea?

    Edit to add a few more pics now that some rust has been removed

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