Results 1 to 25 of 191
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02-25-2014, 09:37 AM #1
PSA: Repair you own fucking edge compression
That is all!
So with the recent rash of compressions, coupled with my own necessity, after purchasing cheap skinny sticks from a mag, to repair a compression that someone had previously repaired not very well.
Remove epoxy base patch.
Clamp ski to something so when you hammer it, it does not delam further
Using flat head screwdriver and hammer, use you zen like body man skillzz, to persuade the edge back into straightness.
Mark width and length of base patch
I can only insert 10 images, so to be continued
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02-25-2014, 09:37 AM #2
I had to pry up edge and grind out useless edge screw heads
Lining up base material for cutting
Remove base for your base patch and prep area. I had some space to take up between edge and sidewall, didn't have any glass, so I took a page out of splats book and went with doretech. You can see it under edge in photo
Mix epoxy
Heat ski locally, do not heat your pot/cup/whatever of epoxy, your just gonna make it fire quicker. Heat area and do what you need to do to get all components wetted out with epoxy.
Insert your patch and a barrier so you don't glue to repair plate to your ski
Clamp. Then I put mine with a ceramic heater blasting right on repair
Christmas morning!Last edited by tuco; 02-25-2014 at 10:25 AM.
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02-25-2014, 09:39 AM #3
Using a series of files and scrapers(your gonna love my heavy duty scraper)
Work the epoxy/edge, base/edge until it is acceptable(just like welds, remove patch material from middle to the edges to clean it up.
One thing to note. The base material I used had a cotton backing that required no extra prep. If you're using straight up UHMWPE without a backing; 80 grit followed by cleaning followed by flame treat.
On another note, I always do a dry run, so I have no surprises when it's layup time.Last edited by tuco; 02-25-2014 at 10:52 AM.
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02-25-2014, 09:39 AM #4
If any of you use this information in a shop setting to fix a customers skis, you owe me an instruction fee
Last edited by tuco; 02-25-2014 at 10:46 AM.
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02-25-2014, 09:40 AM #5
Didn't actually need this reserved space, so I'm gonna use it to tell Roj to fuck off!
Last edited by tuco; 02-25-2014 at 10:48 AM.
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02-25-2014, 09:43 AM #6
Interested in seeing the completion of this....
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02-25-2014, 09:50 AM #7
interested in this, thx for posting it up
(ps, any chance at getting these imgs online so that they're posted inline with the text?)
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02-25-2014, 09:58 AM #8
I tried to do it that way. My computer skills aren't the greatest, that is just how they came out. Sorry.
Also not sure why the pictures are small, fuck.
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02-25-2014, 10:27 AM #9
Solid skillz, well done.
watch out for snakes
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02-25-2014, 12:54 PM #10
Sweetness.
Saran wrap is a good barrier that epoxy won't cure to.Goal: ski in the 2018/19 season
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02-25-2014, 01:31 PM #11Registered User
- Join Date
- Nov 2010
- Posts
- 1,426
nice job!!
that finished job looks so much better than my ghetto efforts
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02-25-2014, 01:42 PM #12glocal
- Join Date
- May 2002
- Posts
- 33,440
Hey, Tuco, well done. One tool I might interest you in for repairs like this is to sand a blade edge at the square end of a file. Those things are tempered strong and that edge makes a killer splitter/scraper for working in those small gaps. Feather it out over an inch or two so it gets thin at the sharp point. It's a nice arrow in the quiver.
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02-25-2014, 01:51 PM #13
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02-25-2014, 01:52 PM #14
U fixxor teh sidewallz. I fixxor teh thredz.
Tuco: if you want to just quote my posts, then edit your OP...then a mod could nuke my posts and you have big images up with the OP.
Mods: if OP gets big photos up on the first posts, these can go away.
So with the recent rash of compressions, coupled with my own necessity, after purchasing cheap skinny sticks from a mag, to repair a compression that someone had previously repaired not very well.
Remove epoxy base patch.
Clamp ski to something so when you hammer it, it does not delam further
Using flat head screwdriver and hammer, use your zen like body man skillzz, to persuade the edge back into straightness.
Mark width and length of base patch
I can only insert 10 images, so to be continued
husky latin womenLast edited by ill-advised strategy; 02-25-2014 at 02:22 PM. Reason: fixin shit
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02-25-2014, 01:54 PM #15
Husky Latin Women
I had to pry up edge and grind out useless edge screw heads
Lining up base material for cutting
Remove base for your base patch and prep area. I had some space to take up between edge and sidewall, didn't have any glass, so I took a page out of splats book and went with doretech. You can see it under edge in photo
Mix epoxy
Heat ski locally, do not heat your pot/cup/whatever of epoxy, your just gonna make it fire quicker. Heat area and do what you need to do to get all components wetted out with epoxy.
Insert your patch and a barrier so you don't glue to repair plate to your ski
Clamp. Then I put mine with a ceramic heater blasting right on repair
Christmas morning!
Last edited by ill-advised strategy; 02-25-2014 at 02:23 PM. Reason: fixin shit
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02-25-2014, 02:01 PM #16
HUSKY LATIN WOMEN!!!
Using a series of files and scrapers(your gonna love my heavy duty scraper)
Work the epoxy/edge, base/edge until it is acceptable(just like welds, remove patch material from middle to the edges to clean it up.
One thing to note. The base material I used had a cotton backing that required no extra prep. If you're using straight up UHMWPE without a backing; 80 grit followed by cleaning followed by flame treat.
On another note, I always do a dry run, so I have no surprises when it's layup time.Last edited by ill-advised strategy; 02-25-2014 at 02:23 PM. Reason: embiggening photos
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02-25-2014, 02:06 PM #17Registered User
- Join Date
- Jan 2012
- Location
- Juneau
- Posts
- 1,095
Excellent thread, thanks.
Damn, don't think I fucked YetiMan's improved layout, but if I did, . . . .
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02-25-2014, 02:18 PM #18spook Guest
thanks for posting this. i feel less nervous about having to fix my apparently fragile board.
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02-25-2014, 02:28 PM #19
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02-25-2014, 03:22 PM #20
Thanks man! At first I thought you were going to be mad at my patent infrigement
Fuck yeah Yeti, that was my intention. If it weren't for this site, my computer skills would even be more archaic.
Maybe I'll just delete my posts, so people think that shitshow of a garage is yours.
Thanks dood!
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02-25-2014, 03:36 PM #21spook Guest
at some point you can't fix a compression, though, right? doesn't it affect the structural integrity of the ski?
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02-25-2014, 04:37 PM #22
Shoudn't. But that depends on how much damage your core may have incurred with the compression. Fixed quite a few Rossi and Dynastars(foam core in those days) and the 1st generation Salomon monocoque skis.
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02-25-2014, 04:57 PM #23spook Guest
oh right. EDGE compression. i was thinking something super deep.
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02-25-2014, 05:07 PM #24
Great thread Tuko. Those clamps and ceramic heater look like they came outta my shop..
I like to pry open the delamed edge with a tool like the one Splat suggests then shove toothpicks in the gap to keep it open. Then with the ski on edge i will use a very fine brush to paint the epoxy down into the gap. Pull the toothpicks out being careful not to break the tips off inside then proceed with the rest of the patch. On a larger repair or when adding new edge i will do it in 2 steps. Epoxy and clamp the edge, then clean things up after its set and then epoxy a patch in.You dont stop playing because you grow old, you grow old because you stop playing
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02-25-2014, 05:45 PM #25
Hell yeah man, hopefully we get a bunch of good info here in one resource.
My preferred tool is an oyster shucking knife. I do have something pretty close, it just a little bigger. I insert it between edge and sidewall and pry the delam open and closed, using a toothpick or similar to pick up the epoxy(for small repairs). For bigger use a small mixing cup,like the kind that come with childrens medicine and pour into open delam, all while flashing the heat gun locally on general repair area(not to close or slow) reducing the viscosity of the epoxy. Prying it open and closed works the epoxy into all the crevices. I always try to find a way to do it in one layup, if at all possible.
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