Jan 18 to Jan 28/13 - Val Gardena, Obergurgl, Kitzbuhel

**garyfromterrace** · 02-02-2014, 09:48 PM

A most excellent time was had recently (Jan 18 to Jan 27) in Yurp. My girlfriend’s daughter is in university at Innsbruck so I figured I should accompany Viv on a little trip, and meet Charlotte. Snow conditions both in Terrace, and in the Rockies both sucked so I figured nothing ventured nothing gained.

The strategy paid off.

Landed in Frankfurt rented a car, and spent the first day and evening night visiting a family that I first met in 1990. They took us out to their regular Kegel evening (similar to bowling), fed us, and made us drink numerous beer and schnapps into the wee hours. Next day we loaded ourselves and our hangovers into the car and drove to Heidelberg to spend the day and evening with my old buddy Andreas and his wife and two charming little girls. Went for a great walk around town and for dinner hit up the House of 100+ Schnitzels to get our full German on.

Next day headed to Haiming Austria to Viv’s daughter Charlotte’s place. Here we checked local snow conditions and discovered the best snow within a 150km radius was at Val Gardena, Italy.
So, off we went…

We got to the hotel at about 10am and were told by the guy at the desk that we should not consider skiing off piste at all. In fact we would likely be charged by the roaming carbonari should we be caught. Yes, in fact you should only consider going off piste if you have a guide - he advised strongly.

This was stupid advice, there was lots of stuff of low consequence, tons of fresh about and I was very happy that we didn't even consider listening to his advice (at least after I took a look around).

Lovely scenic and the mountain is pretty too.

Charlotte hasn't been on skis much in the last number of years, but she was ripping like a trooper and was keen to go wherever. Nice kid and very fun to ski and drink with.

Vivian skis fine, in fact potentially as well as any previous mate. I think I shall keep her.

Cheesy tourist scenic. But, damn it was scenic! Lots of touring options abounded but Charlotte wasn't outfitted for such outings. Love to come back for a BC ski mission.

At the end of the day I zeeked off one of the main trails back to our Village (St Christoph), and silly Vivian followed. Ended up having to cross a creek on a board. Fun way to end the day, really wish I would have been guided though, as that never would have happened. Wait, no, I don't mean that.

Day 2. Vivian under the rustic avie control structure.

Me.

**garyfromterrace** · 02-02-2014, 10:02 PM

A nice way to end a coupla days - glühwein, a little campfire smoke and a happy mom and daughter. Really enjoyed this place and highly recommend it, unguided.

**garyfromterrace** · 02-02-2014, 10:33 PM

I had skied some hills in the past near Innsbruck - Nordpark Seegrube, Kitzbuhel and St Anton and loved them, but I recalled a Tyrolian guy I skied with back in the day rave about a little area (in Austrian terms) up a valley called Obergurgl, so I was keen to check it out. Turned out that Charlotte had a couple of friends - Becca (a Kiwi) and Rob (a Brit) who were teaching there, so it was a natural choice. Twas an easy 45 min drive from Char's place.

Conditions were gorgeous, and the normal euro situation of everyone skiing on piste prevailed. Only one thing different here from most places that I've skied in Yurp - no people period. The place was dead as a doornail, and though lift lines weren't crazy at Val Gardina, they were heavenly here. Rob suggested that it was normally quiet, which means you should all ski this place. It was very comforting (even though the only groomer skiing we did was to get back to the chair), to not have to dodge the drunken hackers that usually abound on-piste at Austrian hills.

Rob not at work.

Becca not at work

Vivian on holiday.

More of Viv in her happy place. I am happy that her happy place is the same as my happy place.

Rob both sporty and solid. Skis pretty good for an instructor.

Lunch spot.

**LightRanger** · 02-02-2014, 11:00 PM

This thread wins.

**neck beard** · 02-02-2014, 11:04 PM

Obergurgl

**garyfromterrace** · 02-02-2014, 11:14 PM

Experimentation with color manager. Rob

Vivian

Went for a little traverse/boot hike, literally about 30 minutes from the hill and skied a 2000' line untracked to Valley bottom. Bloody great! I can't wait to ski here again.

That night we partook in a cool little Austrian tradition called rodelling. You drive up an insanely tight mountain road to a parking lot. Then walk up an hour or so on a narrow groomed cat track. At the top you find yourself at a charming little Alm (farmers hut, but actually very civilized). Here you feast on enormous rib racks & sauerkraut, and drink numerous beer and schnapps.

Following the meat and drink, the chef prepares the traditional, sumptuous, decadent kaiserschmarrn:

An amazing preparation that is like a booze and icing sugar infested pancake flambe, infused with home-made berry compote, that is to die for. Oddly enough, soon you will think you are going to die, for soon after the kaiserschmarrn, comes the rodelling. To rodell is to fly down a hill on a high performance sled thingy in the dark. That's what the groomed cat track that you've walked up is for. And there are no brakes, and no lights, and they are fast. Luckily there are posts stationed every 50m or so that you can run into head on (ask me I know, and there are shards of wood now on the trail that were not there before I went down).

What a great tradition! I tell you, although there may be lots of people over there, I really think their way of population management is fun and exciting. Rodelling, and autobahns! We need em here.

The second day we skied here was stormy as hell, so we took refuge in the trees lower down. The alpine was wind-fucked and white, we managed to find some great little 1000ft shots on a lee slope. Though photos were not many today, the ladies insisted that I get a photo on a sporty little line they all did through the trees (above them). Obergurgl should not be missed if you're in the neighborhood, they've some great terrain - and as can be witnessed by the photos, the touring possibilities abound.

Part 3 (Kitzbuhel) coming soon...

**Meathelmet** · 02-03-2014, 01:53 AM

Originally Posted by neck beard

Obergurgl

Gesundheit!!

I like this thread.

**garyfromterrace** · 02-03-2014, 11:42 PM

The next stop was Kitzbuhel for the Hahnenkamm. Charlotte suggested that we take in the race as the locals do. Basically watch the race from the bottom (on the big screen), while drinking and carousing the day away. What the hell? Sounded like a plan to us. We brought a couple of honorary Canucks in the form of a Welshman (Matty), and our ski partners from Obergurgl (Kiwi Becca and Rob the Brit), what the hell - they're from the Commonwealth eh? And it's not like Wales, Britain or New Zealand have fielded too many DH racers in the Hahnenkamm.

The bottom of course.

One very cool thing about the race today was that one of the racers was like a second son to Vivian, and a brother to Charlotte. I'd heard a bit about Ben from Vivian over the winter and when I looked up Ben Thomsen's bio I noticed that the kid came 2nd at last years Sochi DH. Yeah second. Like the second best in the world that day on that course. Furthermore, the Sochi course was considered "gnarly" by Eric Guay, so this guy can ski. I was absolutely stoked to follow the race that day, and needless to say when Ben came out of the gate flying (fastest first interval time), I figured it could be a good race for him.

Good!!?? Shit no! It was amazing. Kid started 50th, and came in 12th! Best Canadian in the field today, and furthermore Ben needed a very good result to get invited to Sochi (a track where he kicked some ass on no less). It wasn't until last week that I read an article that suggested that he needed a 12th or better to get the invite.

Following his amazing run, we headed to the racer exit area to congratulate the kid on his amazing run.

Ben's personal cheering section

Shaking hands with da man.

Ben was stoked however he had to go back to the hotel with the team and do downhill racer stuff. We needed to do tourist racer fan stuff so off to downtown Kitzbuhel. Not before I ran into a guy from Smithers, BC (believe it or don't), who I happened to have raced against for years. He mentioned that there was other Smithers people about including a few that were actually pretty good friends, and that a meeting at the Londoner Pub later tonight was in order.

The colorful traditional garb of the locals was reminiscent of Cinco de mayo at Alpental. I swear that the giant penis was skiing below the chair at my favorite little PNW hill 2 years ago.

The natives were very friendly and shared their nourishing beverages with us. Who knew rum and coke was the universal lubricant?

These local Austrian lads appeared extremely horny, but were pleasant enough.

We had a blast, partying with the happy throng of Multi-national boozing revelers. But we had to feed a world cup DH racer, so homeward bound we went. Ben was coming for dinner!

Da man! Had a great dinner, nice to hear Ben and Charlotte catch up and tell interesting stories. Also cool to quiz a racer on some of the intricacies of the tour, the equipment, the other racers and what it's like to race the Superbowl of ski racing - The Hahnenkamm (he likes the course). Following dinner Ben gave Vivian and I a ride to the Londoner, where I was hoping to meet some of the Smitherines.

Yes the photo is grainy and horrid, but I needed some proof that I set foot in this looney bin. Did manage to meet Cormac and Dave (I think), and another Dave (I think) from Haida Gwaii. Oh and the girl from Vail. It was a very full wacky bar on the night of the Hahnenkamm.

That evening it snowed...

It snowed a lot. This is Rob, enjoying his deepest day.

Kudos Rob. It was great to be a part of someone's best day ever, Becca also said it was the deepest she had skied as well. Poor kids really do need to come to Shames, one day... one day.

Becca enjoying herself immensely. As did I.

Though perhaps 90% of the hill was closed because of the storm that was raging, we managed to find phenomenal skiing all day. I pulled the pin one run early and headed back to the bottom of the Hahnenkammbahn (gondie). As I was walking down the road I spied a bunch of Canucks in shirts that spelled out C A N A D A. Could it be my buddies from Smithers?

Yep, sure as shit. I run into a bunch of buddies from my neck of the woods. Raced against these guys for 15 plus years, crash on their couches regularly. Had no idea that they were coming to Austria (before yesterday anyway). And, here they are. Ha, it's a funny world!

Well that was about it. Quick trip, in and out. Saw some sights, ate lots, drank moderately mostly and drove my rental car slightly over its recommended top speed on the autobahn (without dying

**klar** · 02-04-2014, 01:01 AM

Sounds like you had fun

Those pesky Italians are actually serious about roaming police and fines for skiing off the groomers. Rules regarding this appear to vary on a day to day basis and follow no discernible logic. It is a real thing though, fyi.

**LeeLau** · 02-04-2014, 01:12 AM

Gary you rock.!! Scoring the good life in every which way - seriously fun entertainment

**Angle Parking** · 02-04-2014, 01:23 AM

As I was scrolling down your post, I started thinking, "I wonder if he ran into Cormac?" and sure enough there he was a couple pics later. Great trip!

**Mike Pow** · 02-04-2014, 05:31 AM

Brilliance. I was right there with you

**IridePow** · 02-04-2014, 06:16 AM

Nice trip!
Looks like you got the whole Euro-package (skiing, scenery, food, beer/wine, party.....).
It's fun when everything falls in place.

**garyfromterrace** · 02-04-2014, 11:05 PM

Thank you LightRanger, Meathelmet, LeeLau, AP, Mike Pow and IridePow. It was a great little trip indeed, and we totally lucked out on many different fronts.

Originally Posted by klar

Sounds like you had fun

Those pesky Italians are actually serious about roaming police and fines for skiing off the groomers. Rules regarding this appear to vary on a day to day basis and follow no discernible logic. It is a real thing though, fyi.

Klar dude!! I would never doubt you, but shit. The terrain we were skiing was totally innocuous, if any thing would have slid (not that I would have skied something I thought would slide) it wouldn't even hit a piste. That's just bizarre! Pesky Italians indeed, the slope cops did seem pretty busy smoking and drinking (we got a kick out of that!).

**PNWbrit** · 02-11-2014, 10:58 AM

Well fucking done mate.

Sorry our Euro trips didn't coincide. Would have been a blast to ski over there with you.

**garyfromterrace** · 02-11-2014, 01:59 PM

Originally Posted by PNWbrit

Well fucking done mate.

Sorry our Euro trips didn't coincide. Would have been a blast to ski over there with you.

QFT mate. Looks like you, scotsman and crew nailed it!! We're thinking niseko for next winter (late dec early jan). Trying to sneak a trip to your neck of the woods before the lifts stop spinning... remote, but still possible..

**Mofro261** · 02-11-2014, 02:36 PM

^^^^
Dooo it Gary, the rest of us Giant Penises would welcome you back to your adopted pnw homeland.

And an excellent TR! The superbowl of ski racing indeed.