Regluing skins - Black Diamond vs. G3 glue renew sheets

[D(C)]

I pulled my skins out last weekend and the glue has gone to shit. It has turned into a goopy, sticky mess that comes off on everything. I could barely ski after transitioning with all the glue stuck to my bases. I tried refreshing the glue by heating it with an iron over the BD transfer paper that comes with new skins and had no luck. I think it's time for a reglue.

The skins are G3 Alpinists. I wanted to hear from those who have experience with both G3 and Black Diamond glue renew sheets and am wondering which yields better results. I understand that a lot of the success in regluing comes from doing it properly, but is one product vastly superior? There's also the option of using Gold Label liquid glue, but that seems like a pretty big pain for a complete reglue.

Also, can I use Black Diamond glue on G3 skins? I can't see why not, but maybe there's a reason.

[Chugachjed]

Bd glue. Use the tube of glue instead of the sheets. The sheets BLOW! Also strip the shitty old glue if it's real bad.


Before you reglue try putting parchment over the glue and ironing it. Can make pretty bad glue pretty good, it drives the water out of the glue.

[g.condor]

BD Gold Label hands down the best, just take your time when removing the old glue/applying the new stuff.
I've always bought the stuff in the can and painted it on, just do it in a well ventilated area!
When removing the old glue, I use paper bags or parchment paper placed over the old glue and then run a warm iron (not to hot or the skin will de-lam, stupid and expensive mistake I made once when in a rush) over the paper. Do several times with fresh sheets to ensure the old stuff is completely gone or the new stuff will just ball up.

[Chugachjed]

The paper bag method is messy as fuck. I recommend a heat gun and putty knife. Heat until glue looks liquid in short sections and then scrape with putty knife.

[I've seen black diamonds!]

Before you reglue try putting parchment over the glue and ironing it. Can make pretty bad glue pretty good, it drives the water out of the glue.

This has worked very well for me.

[XXX-er]

Any re-glue instruction calls out the use of a lot of heat on the new glue

so I figured why not try the just reheating the glue since it won't cost any money, so I fixed the glue on some 5 yr old bd skins that had balled up/missing glue from the tails and a set of dynafit (pomoca) skins that had glue migrating to the ski base by heating the glue with a toko wax iron cranked to the max which is 320F or BD recommends a medium hot wool setting on a clothes iron which is a way hotter temp than you normaly use to wax a skis, the plastic backing sheets that came on G3 skins are ideal for fixing shitty glue and they won't melt, lay them on the glue and iron, roll out the glue with a beer bottle, I also tried parchment but the G3 backing sheet is better, i ironed right over the glueless ribbon and that was no problem

The BD glue leveled/spread out on the tails and looks pretty good, I think if this process had been done before too much glue was gone that would have been better, the dynafit skins quit migrating glue to the ski bases so I am pretty happy with the process

something I don't get is that in a re-glue paper bags or rags are used to soak glue up during the removal process while parchment does the opposite in that it absorbs nothing ...I don't get using both ^^ for the same process ?

[Hugh Conway]

I've always bought the stuff in the can and painted it on, just do it in a well ventilated area!

Can was discontinued a couple seasons ago; I wouldn't buy the stuff in the can now. I believe the tube is the same stuff. It just takes a couple coats brushing on - not nearly the pain removing the old stuff can be. do it in the garage though

[D(C)]

Thanks all. BD Gold Label tube it is.

Is one tube enough for a complete reglue? It sounds like less is more when applying this stuff but how far does one tube go?

[Chugachjed]

One tube should be enough for one or two sets of skins depending on the liberal ness off application.

XXXer - the parchment you iron over to refresh the glue the paper bag method removes glue in a messy shitty way. But you can use parchment/iron to heat then scrape the glue off in lieu of heat gun.

[NatEE]

Interesting- I was about to do some touch-up with paper bag method, but will try to pick up some parchment paper instead. I'm assuming the non-stick baking type with silicone on it or whatever is no bueno? If so, where's the best place to get un-coated stuff?

[XXX-er]

[QUOTE=Chugachjed; the paper bag method removes glue in a messy shitty way. But you can use parchment/iron to heat then scrape the glue off in lieu of heat gun.[/QUOTE]

ok I getcha^^

I haven't actualy had to reglue skins but I have heard you want to scrape the glue towards the middle of the skin to keep it out of the plush?

I used baking parchment I got from safeway for the glue refresh but the backing that comes on your skins from the mfger is the best IME so when you buy new skins save the skin backing

[powdergangsters]

I have reglued both with iron on and tube glue.

First trick use painters tape on the edge of the plush to keep that crappy glue off the skins. This way you can be a littlw more reckless.

I use the parchement trick when my skins are dirty. Lifts the junk off then helps spread out the old glue. Do this and touch up as needed before all the glue is gone. This negates the full strip and reglue if done before the glue is totally f'd.

Also another good trick is to spray some hydrophobic solution on the plush gets the skins running fast again.

Note you can't mix g3 with bd glue. Different solvents



Sent from my SGH-I747M using TGR Forums

[Chugachjed]

The blue painters tape trick is a good one. Put that shit on the plush and go crazy. I usually forget and just end up with some glue on the plush whatevs no biggie.

[angrysasquatch]

Interesting- I was about to do some touch-up with paper bag method, but will try to pick up some parchment paper instead. I'm assuming the non-stick baking type with silicone on it or whatever is no bueno? If so, where's the best place to get un-coated stuff?

I just asked at the meat counter at the grocery store and it worked pretty great. Did it pretty much as XXX described, but pressed hard with the iron to move and level glue instead of a beer bottle. Iron cranked, and legit about 5 mins over the skin, crawling the iron along and heating the crap out of it. Some glue seeped out the sides, I just pulled it off. Didn't really go into the plush, or didn't stick anyways. Skin glue grips like new. I use cheat sheets now, fuck balled up uneven skin glue.

[NatEE]

Yeah, google investigation reveals that the siliconized stuff works fine. Will give it a go here shortly...

[XXX-er]

I just asked at the meat counter at the grocery store and it worked pretty great. Did it pretty much as XXX described, but pressed hard with the iron to move and level glue instead of a beer bottle. Iron cranked, and legit about 5 mins over the skin, crawling the iron along and heating the crap out of it. Some glue seeped out the sides, I just pulled it off. Didn't really go into the plush, or didn't stick anyways. Skin glue grips like new. I use cheat sheets now, fuck balled up uneven skin glue.

did you do anything different than what I wrote, what was yer heat setting, I contributed an artical to the local bc rec news letter so I am interested in finding out if anybody can understand my cryptic ramblings

I put my skins on the ski backwards to use as the form and I did it in my kitchen, probably tacking to a 2x6 would be best

I started using the cheat sheets for storage at home

dude you were suposed to drink the beer!

[JimLad]

I just reglued my skins for the first time. I used a hairdrier and metal scraper to remove all the old glue - actually quite simple when you get the technique dialled. I kept the hairdrier on constantly pointing at one part of the skin and all the glue would come off with each scrape.

I used 1 1/2 tubes of BD Gold label to reglue and applied it with the same metal scraper. Keeping the tube in a jar of hot water helped to make the glue flow better. I paid attention to make sure the glue was well worked into the red material all the way to the edge.

It took two coats to do because the first seemed to be partly absorbed into the material. Final step was to place parchment paper on the glue and iron it on a medium heat. After removing the paper the glue has a nice smooth finish.

Seems to be working well so far, I have 3 days skinning on them now.

[XXX-er]

I get the impression that a lot of people have re-glued their skins BUT it sounds like they skip the heating step??

[GeezerSteve]

Bd glue. Use the tube of glue instead of the sheets. The sheets BLOW!

+1

The paper bag method is messy as fuck. I recommend a heat gun and putty knife. Heat until glue looks liquid in short sections and then scrape with putty knife.

+1

I believe the tube is the same stuff.

Different solvent. The solvent in the BD Gold Label can was outlawed in Euroland, then BD switched to the tube with a different solvent.

Here's how I've done my most recent 5 or so reglues:

1. Nail tip fixture to shop bench or flat board wider than the skin. (I use two drywall screws)
2. Scrape off old glue with stiff putty knife trailing behind a heat gun on low setting. Get all of the dirty old glue off, but usually it's okay to leave a bit of old clean glue on. Have some old newspaper to occasionally offload the removed glue from the putty knife. If this process takes more than a minute or two per skin you are doing it wrong.
3. Brush on a nice even coat of BD Gold Label glue
4. Allow to dry in a dust-free area for at least 24 hours
5. Put parchment paper over the glue you applied >24 hours earlier and iron on a setting low enough such that the glue does not smoke. After ironing, allow the glue to cool a bit such that the parchment paper will come off clean, resulting in a very smooth "factory" glue finish
6. After skins cool to room temp, put skins on cheat sheets
7. If you've done a really good job you might need to use cleat sheets for the first tour or so

[jamesp]

all this heating, scraping, re-gluing, ironing etc is done with the centre ribbon strip in place?

[GeezerSteve]

Remove the chick strip before regluing. Not an issue for me cuz I've pulled off them off long before I need to reglue. I do not replace it for my personal skins, but put them on Anita's skins, hence the term "chick strips."

[SkiLyft]

Bump,

I read through this and there was one reply that said I can not use BD gold label on G3 skins...

Is this still true?

[Mr. Toad]

I do it all the time. The only caveat is if you have bad glue on your skins, you want to scrape it all off first. G3 put out a bad batch of skins awhile back that turns into a soupy mess.

[XXX-er]

Bump,

I read through this and there was one reply that said I can not use BD gold label on G3 skins...

Is this still true?

No its BS, I have since done several reglue & reheat jobs, I did gold label on Pomoca it worked fine and I would use tubes of gold label instead of the transfer sheets glue because a tube of gold label costs 10$ while the sheets of G3 cost 40$

the caveat may be that you don't want to combine glues that are not the same brand so IMO you want to completely scrape off all the old G3 if you wana use Gold label

As for that ironing the glue off your skins my buddy an MD, a pretty smart guy but he should never be allowed to own tools, so he reads the internet tip about ironing your glue off with pieces of brown paper which wasn't going too bad until buddy runs out of brown paper and substituted newspaper calls me up when he realizes what a fucking mess he has made so i booked over with my heat gun and a 4" putty knife to scrape off the mess, applied the transfer sheets of glue and pointed out ... its a good thing some people still make house calls

and IME you wana get yourself a heat gun and a putty knife

[SkiLyft]

Thanks gents- just what I wanted to hear!