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  1. #1
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    WTB: cross bike (also noob questions)

    Looking to mostly ride on-road, but occasionally hit gravel with the GF or race if I feel crazy. My last road bike was a 1980s Schwinn World Cup, so I am totally out of the loop these days. I do really like the way chromo rides though. I guess I need something with about a 30" standover.

    I don't know shit about cross bikes. I really think I do want disc brakes. If I don't find a good deal on used soon, I am just gonna buy this as long as I can find a reputable mag willing to pick it up and ship it for me for a small fee.

    http://skagitcyclecenter.com/product...only-13363.htm


    Also, I haven't ever actually bought a bike in a shop. I assume haggling doesn't really happen in shops? Could I go to my local Kona dealer in NJ and say, "Hey, this bike is available for $300 less in Washington, can we work something out here?" I bet thats no kosher at all right?

  2. #2
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    I wouldn't say it's unreasonable to ask a dealer to throw in some accessories or knock a few bucks off the price so you can skip the whole buy online and ship cross country nonsense, but then again I'm frequently surprised by how easily some bike shops are offended.

    With that said, you may very well be able to find a similar year end leftover at one of your local shops for $1300ish. Or maybe check out REI or Jenson for bikes.. both have or will have some good discounts in the next few weeks.

  3. #3
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    Cross season has just ended and local shops are blowing out last year's cross bikes. So go into a store and look at stuff and figure out what fits. A 53cm frame is for pretty short people btw.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian View Post
    ...Also, I haven't ever actually bought a bike in a shop. I assume haggling doesn't really happen in shops? Could I go to my local Kona dealer in NJ and say, "Hey, this bike is available for $300 less in Washington, can we work something out here?" I bet thats no kosher at all right?
    Haggling for parts (tires derailleurs etc) I wouldn't bother with, but asking a bike shop the best they can do is more than reasonable IMO. I wouldn't pull out the online price comparison thing to start with personally. One shop semi-local to me will knock x percentage off for cash/check vs credit card for example, which makes a decent difference on big purchases.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by VTskibum View Post
    Haggling for parts (tires derailleurs etc) I wouldn't bother with, but asking a bike shop the best they can do is more than reasonable IMO. I wouldn't pull out the online price comparison thing to start with personally. One shop semi-local to me will knock x percentage off for cash/check vs credit card for example, which makes a decent difference on big purchases.
    Obviously, shops can't compete with online, but if a bike is available for a great price at another actual retail store, then I don't see how it can hurt to mention it. I would probably buy that Rove if that shop in WA would ship.

    This one on my local NJ bike forums is calling my name, but how does carbon ride on the road compared to steel? Gotta be rough on long rides no? I would love to do some 150-200 mile overnight rides and

    http://www.mtbnj.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32176

  6. #6
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    I've got an All City Macho Man Disc. $1300 plus shipping. They call it a 49cm....but the top tube is actually a 53.5cm, seat tube length (center to top) is 52.5. I just got it this fall, it probably has about 75 miles on it. I thought I would do some cx racing and like it for some combo rides, but mtb season has run right into ski season....plus road riding in SLC is fucking scary and an acquaintance and mtb competitor just got smashed by a car last week. Not my cup of tea.

    It's a rad bike. Lots of tire/fender clearance and buttery smooth.

    Check it out
    http://allcitycycles.com/bikes/macho_man_disc

  7. #7
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    That's a nice looking bike. Gonna go to a kona dealer tomorrow and see if I can work something out on a Rove. If not, I think I will take you up on that Macho. I got a soft spot in my heart for smaller gear companies.

    My GF is all worried about me riding on the road too. Shit is fucking crazy around here. There is quite alot of gravel/rails-to-trails stuff around here so hopefully I can avoid getting smashed by some idiot.

  8. #8
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    To be fair, All City is like Surly, owned under the umbrella of QBP. But, like all the QBP brands, All City operates as an independent unit and has to make its own bed.
    Also, QBP is one of the raddest companies in the bike world, IMO. They are run very well and treat pretty much everyone right.

  9. #9
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    Nice. Just looked up QBPs other brands and found this sickness. Perfect for bike rednecks like myself.

    http://www.cogburnoutdoors.com/

  10. #10
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    i'm tempted by this one...


  11. #11
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    I had to stick on the cheaper side of things for a gravel build and went with a redline conquest and threw mtn V brakes and bar-end shifters on it. Plenty of clearance for 40c tires.

    The Rove is pretty sweet and has some features that will keep it current as bike specs change. Raleigh has a couple cool new steel disc gravel bikes coming out at a super reasonable price point.

    The velo orange pass hunter is rim brake, but would make a sweet fast mixed surface rig.

    The all-city bikes really impress me with their attention to detail and finishing touches. Can't go wrong with one of those either.
    Quote Originally Posted by 3centshort View Post
    I figure when he realized he was still 10-15 feet off as he flew the K his asshole puckered so hard it ate his nuts
    Quote Originally Posted by iceman View Post
    In the other scenario, you would be like "Peanut Butter, cool, fuck I'm stuck HELP ME HELP ME HELP ME HELP ME oh fuck I'm screwed, but at least I have time to think about how screwed I am. I guess that is a blessing. FUCK NO IT'S NOT A BLESSSING I'M STUCK AND I'M DYING.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian View Post
    This one on my local NJ bike forums is calling my name, but how does carbon ride on the road compared to steel? Gotta be rough on long rides no? I would love to do some 150-200 mile overnight rides and

    http://www.mtbnj.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32176
    Get the Fuji. Rumor is ... that frame is the exact frame used by Ridley in their X-fire. The x-fire is considered a top of the line, world-class frame. Get em to knock a hunsky off it and walk away happy.

  13. #13
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    Carbon can ride well or be really stiff. It depends on the type of weave used and layup. But for the most part something that isn't a race TT frame is going to ride really well (and even the stiff carbon road race bikes aren't supposed to be stiff and uncomfortable, it seems like just TT bikes suck to ride). The one thing carbon does is damp out a lot of the small stuff and "buzz" from the road. But on a cross bike with 32mm tires those are going to provide most of the cushion anyway.

    And that fuji is pretty nice, but sram now has hydraulic road levers. Kind of disappointing that a 2013 model bike with sram and hydraulic discs isn't using them.

    I'm getting a cross bike next year and I really want this build:

    http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bik...ite-rival-disc

    and one of these two color schemes or something brighter/louder because both of my bikes are black/plain:
    http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bik...-disc-frameset
    http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes...isc_frameset/#

    Except I can't get (and don't really want) a trek or specialized because it needs to be something my shop carries.

  14. #14
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    For some reason I keep finding 2013 Kona Roves in WA at great prices. This is the best I have found. Really good deal. Too bad Konas can't be shipped.

    http://www.bikesale.com/kona-rove-cy...bike-2013.aspx

  15. #15
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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian View Post
    looks like a solid bike at a solid price. You could certainly do worse. Of the bikes you've mentioned, the Fuji is what I would go for, myself.

    I'd replace the avid 4 brakes w/ avid shorty ultimates, WAY better braking power, should cost around $100, I think. Or at least throw on some salmon pads to replace the stock avids, which are junk.

  17. #17
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    I'm with Moby.

    Oh and get a 53 and sell it to me when you're done.

  18. #18
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    I have a 54 cm Cannondale Optimo disc brake model with XTR cranks & rear der for you. Interested?
    ride bikes, climb, ski, travel, cook, work to fund former, repeat.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by mobygrape View Post
    looks like a solid bike at a solid price. You could certainly do worse. Of the bikes you've mentioned, the Fuji is what I would go for, myself.

    I'd replace the avid 4 brakes w/ avid shorty ultimates, WAY better braking power, should cost around $100, I think. Or at least throw on some salmon pads to replace the stock avids, which are junk.
    Hmmmm. I didn't even realize that bike wasn't disc when I posted it. Definitely want disc.

    Quote Originally Posted by climberevan View Post
    I have a 54 cm Cannondale Optimo disc brake model with XTR cranks & rear der for you. Interested?
    Complete bike? Whats the standover on a 54cm?

  20. #20
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    why are you set on discs? V brakes or good cantis w/ non-stock pads will present plenty of braking power, for gravel rides, even races.

    Unless you want to swap wheels w/ a MTB, which presents challenges w/ rotor alignment between bikes.

    If you do want discs, there are lots of options at near the same price point as that fuji, though, if you can find a bike in your size.

  21. #21
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    I jumped on a bike with V brakes a few months ago and felt like I was gonna die. Probably just shitty pads, but still I am just too used to disc now I guess.


    I may have found a Rove in my size thanks to the maggot collective.

  22. #22
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    Standover? That's not a very useful metric for sizing a frame, you know. How tall are you? Are you normally proportioned? I'd estimate this 54cm Cannondale to be appropriate for someone 5'-9" to 5'-11", depending on how you like your frames to fit. Unlike Cannondale's road frames, it appears to have a 54cm top tube as well.

    For reference, I am 5'9", and this frame is ideal for me for most riding. I have ridden it on very technical singletrack with success, and have also done long road rides on it.

    Yes, it's a complete bike. Avid BB7 discs, Ultegra STI levers, XTR 9s rear & triple crank, XT front, Mavic Open Pro 32h rims on C-dale hubs. I have tons of stems and can probably hook you up with whatever length/rise you need. You can choose from a few different saddles as well.

    And I'd go disc for a cross bike too. Rim brakes are fine for road bikes, but let's face it: discs are simply better in every way for bikes that might see some mud or rough conditions.
    ride bikes, climb, ski, travel, cook, work to fund former, repeat.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by climberevan View Post
    Standover? That's not a very useful metric for sizing a frame, you know. How tall are you? Are you normally proportioned? I'd estimate this 54cm Cannondale to be appropriate for someone 5'-9" to 5'-11", depending on how you like your frames to fit. Unlike Cannondale's road frames, it appears to have a 54cm top tube as well.
    You've gotta admit that standover is at least a little important in cross. I ride a caad9 in a 54 and I'm 5'8". If I were in the market for a Cannondale cross frame, I'd get a 52.

  24. #24
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    FWIW I am only 5'7" with a roughly 30" inseam...and I like my nuts.

    Motobecane? I know nothing of this brand.

    http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/...i_xi.htm#specs

    Still kinda have my heart set on the Rove, but can't find any 2013s in my size right now and the 2014s are about the same price as that Ti motobecane.

  25. #25
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    Have you looked at the Jake line? Pretty similar I think and my shop has a bunch of them on sale.

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