[SPAM] Binding Freedom Pozi#3 screws for inserts are here!

**jondrums** · 09-22-2013, 02:30 AM

New this season: M5 binding screws with Pozi #3 head!

After one too many stripped heads and lost allen wrenches, we decided to make custom screws just for our inserts and plates. Use a standard Pozi #3 phillips screwdriver just like all your other ski gear. The underside of the heads have locking serrations for a little extra security against backing out. Enjoy!

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as always, TGR members can get a discount with the changeforanickel coupon code

**rabbit** · 09-22-2013, 04:49 AM

brilliant.

**ticketchecker** · 09-22-2013, 06:44 AM

Nice. Are swap plates shipping with these now?

**1000-oaks** · 09-22-2013, 08:12 AM

Nice, looks like some of the flatheads are ground down so they'll fit Radical toes?

**bean** · 09-22-2013, 09:24 AM

Awesome. I'm just about to order some and come see yet another improvement.

Edit: this is probably posted somewhere but is there a reason there isn't a screw kit listed for dynafit radicals?

**userA** · 09-22-2013, 10:34 AM

thanks jon, those will really help and i don't have to guard the T handle allen driver anymore

winning the binding battle one screw at a time.
b

**adrenalated** · 09-22-2013, 10:45 AM

Will you be continuing to provide the standard allen screws? I like allen heads [/retrogrouch]

**jondrums** · 09-22-2013, 11:15 AM

HA! yeah, I'll continue to sell the retro style screws for a while longer - I still have a whole wall of shelves full of them.

**jondrums** · 09-22-2013, 11:16 AM

Originally Posted by ticketchecker

Nice. Are swap plates shipping with these now?

Not until I work through existing stock and update the kit contents, ect.

**cat in january** · 09-22-2013, 01:38 PM

Jon again BRAVO!!!!!

**Spyderjon** · 09-22-2013, 02:57 PM

jondrums, I've been using M5 machine screws in inserts in the UK/Yurp with no.2 pozi heads since day one ('cause allen heads suck). A no. 2 head is a standard size over here so they're readily available. I also looked in to getting no.3 heads (which would be a special order) but was concerned that on countersunk flatheads the head thickness/height required to accommodate a no.3 driver slot would make them too tall for a flush fit in countersunk base plates etc. The heads in your pic look very tall, as tall or taller than the pan heads - you sure they'll lie flush?

**pfluffenmeister** · 09-22-2013, 04:32 PM

hallejuyah!

**jondrums** · 09-23-2013, 02:19 AM

spyderjon, the screws that come with the bindings have #3 pozi heads, and I've replicated the head geometries with M5 threads. So yeah, they fit.

**Spyderjon** · 09-23-2013, 05:45 AM

Originally Posted by jondrums

spyderjon, the screws that come with the bindings have #3 pozi heads, and I've replicated the head geometries with M5 threads. So yeah, they fit.

Cool. The M5 flatheads here have a smaller diameter head than a regular flathead binding screw so there's not enough meat in 'em for the no. 3 cut-out.

Nice job.

**akokskis** · 09-23-2013, 10:15 AM

Awesome, I'm gonna have to pick some of these up before the season rolls around.

On another note, any suggestions on what to do about a stuck screw? I've got one of the M5(?) hex screws through my Vertical FTs into a DynaDuke plate and I must've ham-fistedly screwed it in too tight as I now can't get it out. No loctite, and thankfully the screw isn't stripped, but I'm not really sure what to do here - any suggestions?

**pfluffenmeister** · 09-23-2013, 10:17 AM

^^^ heat it up with a soldering iron?

that's the old "free the epoxy" trick; but the expansion/contraction might loosen it?

**adrenalated** · 09-23-2013, 10:50 AM

Originally Posted by akokskis

Awesome, I'm gonna have to pick some of these up before the season rolls around.

On another note, any suggestions on what to do about a stuck screw? I've got one of the M5(?) hex screws through my Vertical FTs into a DynaDuke plate and I must've ham-fistedly screwed it in too tight as I now can't get it out. No loctite, and thankfully the screw isn't stripped, but I'm not really sure what to do here - any suggestions?

What kind of wrench are you using? Get something with a longer lever and use that to get more torque on it.

**akokskis** · 09-23-2013, 11:07 AM

Originally Posted by adrenalated

What kind of wrench are you using? Get something with a longer lever and use that to get more torque on it.

Been using the one jondrums sells on his site. My concern with really trying to torque the screw, longer lever or not, would be the potential to strip the screw, leaving me f'ed.

Will have to try the soldering iron idea, I had tried previously heating it up with a hair dried but that didn't do anything for me...

**adrenalated** · 09-23-2013, 12:00 PM

Originally Posted by akokskis

Been using the one jondrums sells on his site. My concern with really trying to torque the screw, longer lever or not, would be the potential to strip the screw, leaving me f'ed.

Will have to try the soldering iron idea, I had tried previously heating it up with a hair dried but that didn't do anything for me...

I haven't used Jon's, but....

If you or someone you know has a 1/4" or 3/8" drive ratchet, with an extension and allen sockets, that will most likely work best. Go slow, make sure the wrench is fully engaged, don't be a doofus, and you won't strip the screw. T-handles are great for quickly installing/removing screws, but suck for getting tight stuff loose.

Heating the screws will not help you. Metal expands when heated. This trick works when normal ski screws are stuck due to glue or epoxy because the heat breaks down the glue. In this case, you could try heating the plate to get it to expand away from the screw, but you're unlikely to be able to get enough heat into the right spot because it will simply dissipate across the plate.

**Cocximus** · 09-23-2013, 12:41 PM

IMHO if someone strips allen screws they probally dont even know that pozi isn't phillips.

**jondrums** · 09-23-2013, 01:07 PM

heating the screw with a soldering iron will help break down the loctite or vibratite that you used as a threadlocker.

Last resort, get a dremel tool with a cut-off wheel and grind a slot in the screw. Then use a regular screwdriver to back out the screw. If you don't have access to do this, then buy a left-handed drill bit a little larger than the allen socket. The drill bit will cut and engage the metal and spin the screw right out.

**jondrums** · 09-23-2013, 01:11 PM

Originally Posted by Spyderjon

Cool. The M5 flatheads here have a smaller diameter head than a regular flathead binding screw so there's not enough meat in 'em for the no. 3 cut-out.

Nice job.

Thanks. I tried the #2 phillips M5 screws for a while, but I found they stripped out more often than the allen head screws. I also tried torx head which are quite good, but nobody in the US carries torx screwdrivers around in their glovebox when you're in a pinch. Allen is bad enough if you lose your tool. I think #3 pozi is going to be extremely convenient since every ski workbench has one and a #3 phillips screwdriver can be used in a pinch.

Lastly, I think the #3 pozi feature will really help speed up the installation because it is much easier to get the screw driven in straight in the first place versus an allen head.

**nobueno** · 09-23-2013, 01:11 PM

I used a torx bit the other day and it worked flawlessly. Kind of surprised me that it fit perfect.

**PNWbrit** · 09-23-2013, 01:17 PM

Originally Posted by daught

IMHO if someone strips allen screws they probally dont even know that pozi isn't phillips.

what he said....

**userA** · 09-23-2013, 01:30 PM

Originally Posted by jondrums

heating the screw with a soldering iron will help break down the loctite or vibratite that you used as a threadlocker.

Last resort, get a dremel tool with a cut-off wheel and grind a slot in the screw. Then use a regular screwdriver to back out the screw. If you don't have access to do this, then buy a left-handed drill bit a little larger than the allen socket. The drill bit will cut and engage the metal and spin the screw right out.

this should be taught in the schools.
b