Patching a tire for tubeless.

[shirk]

Anyone have good luck patching a tire to re-use tubeless?

I put a small hole in the tread of a Maxxis DHF EXO and want to put it back on tubeless instead of a tube.

Just use a regular generic tube patch kit? Will the Stan goop affect the patch?

[Touring_Sedan]

An automotive style patch works great. Did the same thing to my DHF a few weeks ago and it's still holding fine. No effects from the Stan's.

[bendtheski]

I patched a conti using a standard patch kit with no problems. Make sure to roughen the surface with the sand paper thingy, and give the glue a few seconds to get tacky before applying the patch.

In one of these threads, climberevan suggested setting the glue on fire for 5 seconds before applying the patch, which sounds like it might help speed up the glue setting process, so the patch doesn't peel right off.

Personally, I think setting the whole wheel on fire and riding it would be cool for effect, but probably won't fix your flat, and could leave a mark.

[Poop~Ghost]

Clean, alcohol, dry.

self-vulcanizing fluid + patch.

Good as new? probably not - but you can probably get some life out of it.

[plugboots]

Stan's recommends a normal patch kit. If you want to really set it, put a tube in, fill it up to a million pounds, deflate, take the tube out and proceed.

[shirk]

Sweet.

Thanks for the info.

[ridinshockgun]

I successfully patched on with gorilla tape, lasted about a year until I changed the tire out. It would probably still hold air.

[joetron]

An automotive style patch works great. Did the same thing to my DHF a few weeks ago and it's still holding fine. No effects from the Stan's.

Yup. I used a plug this weekend. Works great. Super fast and easy. It's easier to get in if you still have a little air in the tire.

[dcpnz]

I found regular bike tube patches dont last too long. Auto patch on the other hand been holding strong all season with no leak. Its much thicker rubber than a bike tube patch. And I'm referring to a vulcanized glue patch on the sidewall not a 'plug'. Plug might work on the tread but i havent needed to try that

[goldenboy]

I've had good luck with small punctures with regular super glue.

[kidwoo]

I've been pretty blown away by how well these work


http://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...0&category=199

They're the only thing I've ever gotten to to stay sealed for any length of time. Regular tube patches haven't cut it for me.

[bagtagley]

I've used traditional tube patch kits somewhat successfully. I prefer the UST tire patch kits (I currently have the one woo linked). More involved, but they can be installed without removing the tire and they stay put. I run goop in all my tires, so I don't have to worry about a perfect seal.

[jm2e]

This:
http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Tech-Tu...Tire-2012.html

The thing with contact cement/rubber cement in any setting, is that the glue needs to DRY before using. Tacky means it probably isn't dry enough yet. Wet means it might as well still be in the bottle where it wasn't drying before so why would it dry now that you have it sandwiched between two air tight materials?

I like plugboots idea with the innertube, but maybe not for larger holes where the tube might do too much to deform the tire at the hole. This approach also requires more patience.

[kootenayskier]

I've had success with Goop/Shoe Goo on small holes.

[beaterdit]

I patched a conti using a standard patch kit with no problems. Make sure to roughen the surface with the sand paper thingy, and give the glue a few seconds to get tacky before applying the patch.

In one of these threads, climberevan suggested setting the glue on fire for 5 seconds before applying the patch, which sounds like it might help speed up the glue setting process, so the patch doesn't peel right off.

Personally, I think setting the whole wheel on fire and riding it would be cool for effect, but probably won't fix your flat, and could leave a mark.

Don't do that bit. If you're sanding the inside of the tire, you'll fray the casing threads, weakening the tire. Just clean it really well with alcohol. You can use a green scrubby pad if you want. Make sure it dries all the way before applying the cement.

I'll use those plugs on the trail and leave it for a while but usually it will fail eventually. The automotive patch is the definitive repair. Those will fail eventually but usually not before the tire itself is done.

[frorider]

For slits with clean edges, it's amazing how well super glue works if you clean with alcohol first. Sometimes u have to experiment with the right amt of glue. Let some air out of the tire so you can pinch it to open up the slit

For tears/large holes with more jagged edges, a patch is needed. Woo's link reminded me to order a fresh kit.

Regular tube patches have sometimes worked but it seems to vary depending on tire mfger.

I once used one of those green slime brand self adhesive patches on a trail repair and it held forever. I used purel to clean the inner tire. YMMV.

[Whiteroom_Guardian]

Bumping this up.

I cut a DHF right at the base of a knob. Running the tire on the rear. Used a large patch, alcohol, hair dryer, etc. Patch held great for the race the next day until a SUPER rough section on one of the 4th stage (same exact place I killed the tire the previous day). Seems like the lateral force on the knob was just too much for the 1" patch. Think I will have better luck with a larger auto patch? Or are cuts right at the knob just too "fragile" to get to hold on rough terrain again?

[El Chupacabra]

What about cutting off that knob (or at least trimming it down short) so that it doesn't pull at the patch and tear the patch off?

[ghosthop]

Bumping this up.

I cut a DHF right at the base of a knob. Running the tire on the rear. Used a large patch, alcohol, hair dryer, etc. Patch held great for the race the next day until a SUPER rough section on one of the 4th stage (same exact place I killed the tire the previous day). Seems like the lateral force on the knob was just too much for the 1" patch. Think I will have better luck with a larger auto patch? Or are cuts right at the knob just too "fragile" to get to hold on rough terrain again?

I gashed an Ardent right at the base of a knob on a cactus thorn last fall and this

I successfully patched on with gorilla tape, lasted about a year until I changed the tire out. It would probably still hold air.

has held great all season. Cleaned up the inside with rubbing alcohol, when I first resealed it a little bit of stan's sputtered out and has been solid ever since.

[kidwoo]

My new jam



I couldn't find them in any brick and mortar auto parts store. I had to get them from the amazon. But those plus some burly 50s era rubber cement will seal just about anything. It may leak a little the first ride but with some good sealant, it will hold, even on a bead.

[Lindahl]

For how long? Bead patches always seem to eventually rip open on me. On the other hand, alcohol, hair dryer, tube patch kit seems to work 99% of the time for non-bead tears. The 1% it doesn't is when I fuck up the patch and don't notice at the time - usually lasts for a little while and then I just repatch. Btw, the 'sandpaper' in the tube patch kit is unnecessary for tires.

[kidwoo]

So far a month, riding about 4-7 days a week?

Shit's solid.

I never busted out a hair dryer but I tried for 10 years to get tube patches to work on split beads on tires. I gave up.