Vermont, Maine, NH, NY Car Camp Tour - IPA, day hikes and must see suggestions?

[iceman]

meh, I was never impressed with the northway. 28 takes you the chain lakes, longs lake, etc then 73 through keene valley. or something luike thar < ball busting >

Keene valley is sweet no doubt but my boy has to eat up some miles somewhere.

With a more relaxed agenda I would agree with you. The NY shore of Champlain is actually nicer than the VT side (a matter of degrees though, both are pretty amazing) but he gots places to go.

[Hugh Conway]

Keene valley is sweet no doubt but my boy has to eat up some miles somewhere.

skip the south shore of lake ontario.

[BigDaddy]

When are you doing this?

Maybe I missed it, but just read through kind fast...

[iceman]

skip the south shore of lake ontario.

In a minute. Cool enough area but on a fast trip like this, no.


Finger lakes though.... an argument could be made.

[BigDaddy]

Belfast is right on our way so that is perfect thanks.

And Storyland ?

In Belfast, check out Youngs Lobster Pound.

2nd Storyland... It's Disney on anti-steroids.

2nd Chocora, too.... great hike, but tough for little kids.

If doing Finger Lakes and Ithaca, eat at the Moosewood Cafe.

[Hugh Conway]

In a minute. Cool enough area but on a fast trip like this, no.


Finger lakes though.... an argument could be made.

nah, not really. if you are looking for a scenic drive neither 104 (I assume that's what you'd take, Lake rd might be a pain if you could even take it for much) or anything in the finger lakes are really scenic relative to other things. Get on the thruway and gun it.

[uglymoney]

When are you doing this?

Maybe I missed it, but just read through kind fast...

My wife is still holding a gun to my head about Niagara Falls. Basically the plan was just to camp by the lake to be close so she could get her fix in and I could run around the shore of Lake Ontario with the dog which is all I need to be happy but I'm working on her (I've seen the falls/she hasn't - I'd rather spend a day in the woods trust me). I think we spend more time in the mountains and hit up the Falls for a couple hours on the way home. Easy change to itinerary. She reads TGR but would never post so I appreciate the input

[BigDaddy]

Leave here on the first Friday in August.

My wife is still holding a gun to my head about Niagara Falls. ... She reads TGR but would never post so I appreciate the input

You're busted already, then... ha ha.

I'll be in Mad River Valley with my family (VT, Sugarbush area) August 9-23 and I have plenty of camping space. Some fun swim holes and tubing rivers nearby... not to mention lots of great beer. If you're in the hood, drop a PM and I'd happily host a mag/family. (Also have a half Aussie who'd love a playmate.)

[refried]

Youngs Lobster pound is definitely worth the stop, great food and not as many tourists as you'll find further south. On your way to Portland take 24 (just north of Brunswick) down to Orr's and Baileys Island, the tuna tournament should be going on about then, I don't think they're getting as many (or any) fish over 1000 pounds anymore but they are worth seeing when they come off the boat. We used to fish it every year and seeing a 1300 pound fish is something I'll never forget (my biggest was half that size, but it was on a handline)

[Benny Profane]

Finger lakes though.... an argument could be made.

Or Cooperstown.

[iceman]

She reads TGR but would never post so I appreciate the input

That BITCH!!!

kidding of course

[iceman]

Finger lakes though.... an argument could be made.

This would be that argument:



Keuka

[Benny Profane]

The Northway is a pretty cool highway itself once you get, well, North (like 50 miles north of Albany). You should take it all the way up to Plattsburgh and then take the ferry across lake Champlain to Burlington, stowe is an easy ride from there.

Benny, wth is the name of that smoked meat place you turned me on to years ago? Near saratoga? Place was awesome. Worth the two-minute detour off the highway.

edit: Oscar's. Plus if you go there there's a good (good by NY standards, i.e. awesome) pizza place in the same little tiny 4-store strip mall. Worthwhile all around.

Yes, Oscars. You can stop there, have them fill a box with stuff, and have it shipped home. Exit 23, Warrensburg, right off the Northway. Culinary heaven.

[RShea]

Leave here on the first Friday in August.

My wife is still holding a gun to my head about Niagara Falls. Basically the plan was just to camp by the lake to be close so she could get her fix in and I could run around the shore of Lake Ontario with the dog which is all I need to be happy but I'm working on her (I've seen the falls/she hasn't - I'd rather spend a day in the woods trust me). I think we spend more time in the mountains and hit up the Falls for a couple hours on the way home. Easy change to itinerary. She reads TGR but would never post so I appreciate the input

You can spend a few hours around Niagara Falls if she insists, but do plan on getting in and taking a look at the Canadian side if possible. (Need passports and all though). It can be a big tourist trap but the view from the look-outs can be worth the short detour off I-90 to get there. Maybe a ride on the Maid of the Mist, but skip all the other stuff since your schedule is so tight.

[chatton18]

I don't know how much time you'll have in Lake Placid, but there's a lot to do in two days. I'm not sure how much mileage you'll want to put in on a hike, but there's a lot of great options. I'd personally avoid Marcy since its a shitshow of tourists and doesn't provide the best views. There's a lot of info on high peaks climbing and I'm not sure how good of a climber your dog is on steep rocks/can you carry him up/down ladders etc. If you had to do one hike that gave a good mix of mountain and lake/valley views. I'd probably recommend going up Mt. Colden via this loop http://www.summitpost.org/mt-colden-...ack-loj/157628

This gives you views of Marcy, Algonquin, etc. and then you get to hit avalanche lake on the way back which is pretty awesome. Not the best view from the top, but overall there's a lot of good resting points. I'd recommend going through avalanche pass on the way out as this side of the mountain is steeper and the climb is covered in wet granite which is one of the few things my dog hates since she can't really grip on it.

Mt. Colden as seen from Algonquin


Top of Colden with the GF and Mutt


Avalanche Lake



Other good options are Algonquin (shorter, second highest peak, arguablly the best views on a day hike). If you're tired and don't want to climb just going out and back through avalanche lake to lake colden.

If you want semi technical climbs, saddleback and basin are fun. There's one or two ladders for the dog. I've done it with one of mine, but she's a strong climber and I just carry her up/down a few ladders and have to pick her up on a few of the 4/5 foot ledge spots.

Gothics/Armstrong/Upper Wolfjaw will also provide some tech climbing and views. That said, go to the Adirondacks for the views and NH for the Tech Climbs.

If you want to kill yourself there's the Great Range Traverse. I wouldn't recommend this if you're doing a lot of driving as you'll be extremely sore for the next week.

Following your hike, its essential that you go to the Lake Placid brewery for ubu ales, chicken and veggie nachos and more fantastic bar food. If nothing else have a beer or two with your dog on the patio in the red adirondack chairs.

There's a pretty decent rock jumping spot in Wilmington near whiteface with 10, 20 and 35 foot jumps and then a couple 50 or 60 footer into rapids than I've never done, but have seen people do. It's pretty easy to get to and I can tell you how if you want. For breakfast, the best place in the Country Bear Cafe in wilmington which has the best french toast on the planet, but is kind of a hole in the wall. In town, the lake placid diner is okay.

[Timberridge]

If you plan on doing any hiking in the Eastern woods these next few weeks bring mosquito spray.

[From_the_NEK]

In Vermont...

Lake Willoughby:


and the Hill Farmstead Brewery:


I agree that Portland Maine is worth a visit. Great food and beer.

Wow, a lot of ground to cover in not very much time. I'm going to write a small travel guide here.

I have made MANY trips between Iowa and Vermont (family trips and I went to college there). To save a few hours on the drive, I HIGHLY recommend taking the Canadian route. Driving through the rust belt on the American side sucks, the traffic is terrible and there is always some sort of construction. Additionally, it is a lot harder to get to northern VT (and Smuggler's Notch) coming from that way.
I suggest entering Canada at the Port Huron/Sarnia crossing. As long as you avoid rush hour in Toronto, you should be fine on the 401.
Exit Canada at Cornwall and cut across the northern end of NY state. If it daylight when you get there, go toward Plattsburg and grab the Grand Isle Ferry over to VT. If it is dark, stay north and take the bridges across Lake Champlain between Rouses Point and Swanton. These are also scenic if you end up going that way during the daylight.
I used to complete the drive Between NE VT and Waterloo/Cedar Falls in about 20 hours this way. If you leave Iowa early in the morning and get in a good 14-15 hours of driving on day 1, then you should have a good half day to play/relax once you get to VT on day 2. Hop over to Stowe Mountain resort to catch a Gondola ride or drive up the Toll Rd. If it is a nice day the sunsets over the Champlain Valley are hard to beat. There are also A LOT of hiking options in the notch but that might be a hard to get motivated for after sitting in a car for 20 hours.

Now that is the easy part of the route choosing...

Once you are in Smugglers Notch, there are SOOOOO many options and it would be impossible to hit them all as you make your way toward Acadia.

From Smugg's State Park, head back through the notch and pick up Rt 100 in Stowe. Head north hook up with Rt 15 heading east. Route 15 passes through authentic Vermont farm and forest land. It is not touristy but there are really nice views. The Hill Farmstead Brewery is a short jaunt into Greenboro off of Rt 15. However, if it is before noon, the brewery is not an option since they are only open Wednesday-Saturday 12 p.m. to 5 p.m.

Hook up with US Rt 2 in West Danville (aka Joe Pond). Stop and take a dip at the beach near the intersection if you’re hot.
Follow Route 2 toward St Johnsbury. Now the routes start to diverge. Note, if it is a heavily clouded day (or even mildly cloudy) you may want to skip the Mt Washington auto road. The top of Mt Washington is frequently socked in, so once you get to St J, I suggest checking http://www.mountwashington.org/ to see what the conditions are. IMHO there are a lot of other attractions to check out if the clouds level on Mt Washington is below 5000 ft. If the Mt Washington is socked in, and you really want to hit an auto road, check out the Burke Mtn toll road (20 minutes north of St J). There are great views of northern/central VT, and NH from the fire tower (at "only" 3260', Burke's summit will often be out of the clouds when the White Mtns are covered). Then from there, Lake Willoughby (see the picture above) is only another 20 minutes North. But you would be heading in the wrong direction.

Note: No matter which of these routes you take there are views (as long as the clouds are above 5000').

From St J -
Option 1 Route 2 (1.25 hours): The fastest route to the Mt Washington auto road is by continuing on Route 2 east toward Gorham, NH then south on route NH route 16. This is arguably the least scenic route (and watch for moose). If you are in no rush or waiting for weather to improve, the Fairbanks Museum in St J is a cool place to check out.

Option 2 Route 302 (1.5 hours): Before entering St J, exit route 2 onto I-91 S, then in 1.5 miles exit onto I-93 S toward Littleton, NH. Littleton is a nice town and the kids might dig Chutters on Main St (huge candy store). If you bypass Littleton's downtown, exit I-93 at exit 40 and head east on US Route 302 toward Bethlehem. This route will take you past the Mt Washington Hotel and through Crawford Notch. In Bartlett, grab Rt 16 north to the auto road.

Option 3 Kancamagus Hwy (2.25 hours): Instead of getting off at exit 40, continue S on I-93 through Franconia Notch. As mentioned by others, here you will find the Cannon Mtn Tram, the Flume Gorge, and some other neat attractions (viewing area for the deceased Old Man of the Mtns, fairly short hikes on Indian Head/Mt Pemigewasset or Artist Bluff). Continuing S on I-93, take Exit 32 for Lincoln and head east on the Kancamagus Hwy. This is a really nice drive but there is often a lot of traffic if it is a nice day. After 8 or 9 miles on the eastern side of the pass, keep an eye out for a left turn on Bear Notch Rd. This will be the key to avoiding the very touristy Conway,NH (a must avoid if it is a weekend). But if your wife likes to shop, you may need to go there .

As you probably know, Acadia is over 4 hours from Mt Washington, so whatever you do you probably don't want to start the climb up Washington any later than 2:00.

On the way back toward IA via Niagra Falls, Lake Placid would be a VERY long detour. Just spend that time hanging in Portland for a half day. Then cut across southern NH via (recommendations from S NH mags?) to VT route 9 to NY route 7, to I-90 W. Then either hop back to the 401 in Canuckistan or stay on I-90 post Niagara.

aaaaaaannnnddddd I'm done.

[From_the_NEK]

Oh, and as far a VT being more scenic that NH.
A lot of that has to do with the history of farming in VT. The open farm fields are often near the roads keeping the views open. In NH, the roads a more often lines closely by trees which block a lot of the potential views. And who wants to look at trees for hours on end

[iceman]

Great info. If I was in Portland and I wanted to make time west I guess I'd I'd probably suck it up and head south on 95 to 495 to 90. Something to be said for the interstates when you're trying to cover ground.

[BigDaddy]

Oh, and as far a VT being more scenic that NH.
A lot of that has to do with the history of farming in VT. The open farm fields are often near the roads keeping the views open. In NH, the roads a more often lines closely by trees which block a lot of the potential views. And who wants to look at trees for hours on end

That's an interesting point and makes some sense. I also know NH has twice the population of Vermont, albeit, mostly in the south.

Nice route info and I second the Bear Notch road bypass of Rt. 16 in Conway. It's a real time/life saver! (And you can check out the climbing at Cathedral Ledge).

[uglymoney]

Wow. Incredible info from NEK and Chatton18. I don't have time to digest this solid pinpoint data today but I'll give suitable replies tomorrow. Thanks for taking the time to put those posts together.

[From_the_NEK]

If you want to hit the Adirondacks, I would recommend doing it on the way to Smuggs. If you get off the 401 in Canada and cross into the US at Ogdensburg, NY you can go across and hit Lake Placid pretty easily.

Edit: re-read your original post and it sounds like you want to overnight in Lake Placid one night. There is definitely enough stuff in L.P. to keep you occupied for a day so I would take all of the remaining time of day 2 in L.P. and stay overnight there. Then head to VT in the morning. Then you can take the entire day day to mess around in northern VT. Are you competely tied to Smugglers Notch State Park or are you flexible to staying closer to NH before heading to Mt Washington?

From Lake Placid you can take the ferry across the heart of Lake Champlain into Burlington (beautiful 1.25 hour long cruise). Then Smuggs is only another hour away unless you stop for dinner/shopping on Church Street in Burlington.

[uglymoney]

You're busted already, then... ha ha.

I'll be in Mad River Valley with my family (VT, Sugarbush area) August 9-23 and I have plenty of camping space. Some fun swim holes and tubing rivers nearby... not to mention lots of great beer. If you're in the hood, drop a PM and I'd happily host a mag/family. (Also have a half Aussie who'd love a playmate.)

Thanks for the offer, I'd love to run into an Aussie owning mag or two on the trip but I think we're just a little ahead of you. Appreciate the input. I wanted to include Mad River in this trip but clearly I'd need more time.

That BITCH!!!

kidding of course

She read this and laughed. If everyone on here was as cool as Iceman she'd probably post away but she is even more liberal and opinionated than I am so it is best she stay a lurker I think. Thanks for your input Ice! We put the Lake Ontario camping on ice and are now spending the last night at Rollins Pond campground outside of Lake Placid a ways - it seems to have super nice and highly rated sites a few miles from Lake Placid and somewhere for my stepson to fish which is his thing. We'll still be spending a night in town to get our drink/walk back to hotel fix in and after driving all the way from Acadia we will not want to set up a tent on Thursday.

You can spend a few hours around Niagara Falls if she insists, but do plan on getting in and taking a look at the Canadian side if possible. (Need passports and all though). It can be a big tourist trap but the view from the look-outs can be worth the short detour off I-90 to get there. Maybe a ride on the Maid of the Mist, but skip all the other stuff since your schedule is so tight.

We have passports for the whole family (we went to Revelstoke this past winter). Canada side sounds good if we make it to Niagara Falls for a couple three hours on Saturday evening but thanks to mag input we are now considering it optional.

I don't know how much time you'll have in Lake Placid, but there's a lot to do in two days. I'm not sure how much mileage you'll want to put in on a hike, but there's a lot of great options. I'd personally avoid Marcy since its a shitshow of tourists and doesn't provide the best views. There's a lot of info on high peaks climbing and I'm not sure how good of a climber your dog is on steep rocks/can you carry him up/down ladders etc. If you had to do one hike that gave a good mix of mountain and lake/valley views. I'd probably recommend going up Mt. Colden via this loop http://www.summitpost.org/mt-colden-...ack-loj/157628

This gives you views of Marcy, Algonquin, etc. and then you get to hit avalanche lake on the way back which is pretty awesome. Not the best view from the top, but overall there's a lot of good resting points. I'd recommend going through avalanche pass on the way out as this side of the mountain is steeper and the climb is covered in wet granite which is one of the few things my dog hates since she can't really grip on it.

Mt. Colden as seen from Algonquin


Top of Colden with the GF and Mutt

Avalanche Lake

Other good options are Algonquin (shorter, second highest peak, arguablly the best views on a day hike). If you're tired and don't want to climb just going out and back through avalanche lake to lake colden.

If you want semi technical climbs, saddleback and basin are fun. There's one or two ladders for the dog. I've done it with one of mine, but she's a strong climber and I just carry her up/down a few ladders and have to pick her up on a few of the 4/5 foot ledge spots.

Gothics/Armstrong/Upper Wolfjaw will also provide some tech climbing and views. That said, go to the Adirondacks for the views and NH for the Tech Climbs.

Following your hike, its essential that you go to the Lake Placid brewery for ubu ales, chicken and veggie nachos and more fantastic bar food. If nothing else have a beer or two with your dog on the patio in the red adirondack chairs.

For breakfast, the best place in the Country Bear Cafe in wilmington which has the best french toast on the planet, but is kind of a hole in the wall. In town, the lake placid diner is okay.

Super solid advice. We will be using it and I will definitely get those essential apres hike beers at Lake Placid Brewery. Awesome long day hikes with the kids are my thing. Last year we did some huge day hikes in the Wind Rivers that are usually done as overnighters. My feet about fell off but a beer in a lawn chair takes away the pain afterwards.

If you want to hit the Adirondacks, I would recommend doing it on the way to Smuggs. If you get off the 401 in Canada and cross into the US at Ogdensburg, NY you can go across and hit Lake Placid pretty easily.

Edit: re-read your original post and it sounds like you want to overnight in Lake Placid one night. There is definitely enough stuff in L.P. to keep you occupied for a day so I would take all of the remaining time of day 2 in L.P. and stay overnight there. Then head to VT in the morning. Then you can take the entire day day to mess around in northern VT. Are you competely tied to Smugglers Notch State Park or are you flexible to staying closer to NH before heading to Mt Washington?

From Lake Placid you can take the ferry across the heart of Lake Champlain into Burlington (beautiful 1.25 hour long cruise). Then Smuggs is only another hour away unless you stop for dinner/shopping on Church Street in Burlington.

Thanks for writing a book for me. Iowegian advice is generally more reliable since you literally know where I am coming from. The route alternatives will be studied and utilized since we are going to be backtracking. Our reasoning for staying in Smuggs is that it is basically as far as we can go with kids in a day and a half. Acadia is out of reach. So we stay there and do the seven hour drive to Acadia a couple days later. Same thing on the way home - Acadia-Cedar Rapids is way too far for us to go in two days. So we bounce over to Lake Placid and have a reasonable day and a half drive home after we pull up stakes at Rollins Pond campground near Lake Placid on Saturday morning. If we have time to hit Niagara falls we do it, or not.

As far as Canada vs US on the way out we are still debating. Like you have said the whole rust belt drive is a nightmare of traffic, flatness, ugly cities and general boredom (I've done the drive). We've actually been going back and forth on which way to go long before this thread. I'm guessing CR is almost an hour closer than Cedar Falls so at least we have that going for us!

This whole trip is too much driving and we know that but honestly we kind of specialize in that kind of trip and it has been a little while since we pushed ourselves like this so we'll get it done. The Acadia to Lake Placid drive will be long but pretty.

Also, we might do Portland for lunch and a beer, but my wife vetoed staying there because this is first and foremost a camping adventure with the kids. One hotel night in Lake Placid to blow a bunch of money and stagger back to the room over the legal driving limit. We'll have to plan a long weekend to Portland that involves airplanes.

If any mags are up and around the area we'll be easy to spot with Iowa plates and a silver 4-Runner with a large stickered Yakima box.

[uglymoney]

Made it to Smuggs via I 90 and then 8 through NY then over the bridge and up past Mad River. What a loooooong drive. Adirondack's are killer with all the little ski lakes. Wife is exhausted and needs sleep to be sane again. I am sipping on some IPA's in our litttle lean to listening to the rain fall. Vermont is state number 48 for me. Maine will be 49. Alaska will be the last on my hit list at number 50 when that happens someday.

[iceman]

Nice. Weather really cooled off and cleared out late yesterday down here on the coast in Mass., hope you're in the same pattern.

edit: just looked at the weather, there's a little bit of shit hanging over the VT-NY-QUE "T", every direction you go -and you wouldn't have to go far- is clear and sunny.