San Diego 2013

[shera]

Thanks. Awesome coaching - I will try.

I woke up this morning dreaming about surfing.

Working on the arms. I went to crossfit and that made me so sore, paddling is easy compared to pullups and presses. I read about a different way to paddle, making an S shape in the water with your hand. To vary the muscles used and to direct water flow under the board. Psyched to try it out.

grubbers the wetsuit is awesome. I'm perfectly comfortable in the water and don't feel any hindrance in my movement either, it is really like a second skin. The only time I get any chill is when I take it off and my hair is all wet. Thank you so much for the great hookup. I feel like I need to pay it forward somehow...

The ankles and wrists are so snug, hard to get on. I read about using plastic bags, but I don't see anybody doing that in the parking lot. Hmmm.

great attitude SheRa, you'll get this.

One tip when catching waves is to get as much speed as possible on the paddle in. So start paddling earlier, from further out, so that when the wave catches up to you, you have a lot of speed already, and just slide right into the takeoff. You will get into the wave earlier, when it is less steep, and can then pop up earlier. Everything will just seem easier, rather than like it is all happening so fast all at once. On a longboard this is particularly easy and advantageous.

Also, when you do pop up, really commit to it and make it a quick, clean motion. Dont kneel, then wobble to your feet. Make it a habit to just jump to your feet, land crouching and ready to surf. This too is easier if you can catch the wave earlier, which is easier if you start out with a lot of paddling speed.

Strong paddling arms are the greatest asset when learning to surf. Being in the right place at the right time is essential.

[shera]

Yesterday was different. It was fun. Surfing is supposed to be fun, right?

Having had a long struggle learning to ski bumps and powder, I'm really ok with motoring through, day after day, to achieve a long term goal. I've made a commitment. But let me tell you, it is nice to have some good clean fun for a change. I've been faithfully going to Tourmaline all by my lonesome, at the crack of dawn. Alone, yet surrounded by people. These people are not embracing me and I'm not embracing them either. It feels like a war zone, like the aggressive and negative interactions you constantly have in California on the roads. I blame it on California culture, but surely I also have to blame myself. I'm bringing a bad attitude too. I want to win at surfing and to do that I have to win against all these other people.

All this negative energy is compounded because I'm just not good enough for the wave there, trying to learn to surf down the line, trying to learn to surf the swell, not the broken wave, all while feeling that I only have a few chances every day because my arms can only do so much. All while the good surfers take wave after wave, confining me to the fringes and even having words for me when I pull back to let them by. Yes I know it's your wave, every wave is your wave. You can see that I'm no good, I can't even pop up in this swell and "surf etiquette" says you have no obligation to give me a chance to try. Anyway, it's just plain tricky and somewhat disheartening going day after day and not getting rides. I don't head there in the morning with a feeling of joyous anticipation, rather a grim determination.

But yesterday was so different. It was joyful. Playful. Warmhearted.

We went back to La Jolla Shores yesterday. Notice the 'we' in that sentence. So nice to say we. Wheeeeeeeeeeee! Between Bernardo and Kim, I really do have a crew, a surf crew. Unfortunately, or maybe fortunately, they're skiers, my friends from Colorado. So grateful they each came to visit, bringing their enthusiasm for surfing with them. Helping me remember that surfing is fun. Being in the water with me, erasing my loneliness. Making me laugh and cheer at comic failures and heroic successes. Making me admire their determination, Bernardo muscling the wave into submission, Kim coaxing the wave with art and timing. I see the skier in them out on the water, I see their true nature. Yes they are novices, just like me, but I see. Being a ski instructor means I have eyes to see.

Let me tell you about the vibe at La Jolla, which is not the vibe at Tourmaline. There are just as many people in the water, which is a LOT of people. There are the classes, what we called Aloha sessions in Hawaii, standing around in the break, there are hordes out with rented wavestorms, there are people with a variety of random glass boards and skill levels outside, there are tons of children with their childish ways. Everyone is clearly having fun. So much fun. Is anyone having fun at Tourmaline? I can't really tell.

Something happened to me yesterday, for the first time in California. I was paddling for a wave and the guy next to me says "it's all you" with a genuine warmth in his voice. And he pulled back for me. It literally brings tears to my eyes to contemplate. I was energized, paddled like a demon, did not make the wave. Boooooo, failure in my moment of glory. I started watching this guy though and he was the best surfer out there. So smooth, so cool - instacrush. I was already tired by this point, but I stayed in the water at least another hour, watching, not stalking! I feel like I learned so much from him, just watching everything he did, trying to mimic. Seeing all the possibilites in a 1-2' day at the shores.

Kim and I were out there for hours and hours yesterday, it was the best surf day of my life, and hers. We both had countless rides and infinite fun. In spite of all that paddling, my shoulders feel only somewhat sore so I think I'm over the hump. And I'm going to try to hold onto the euphoria, carry that feeling into every day on the ocean. I'm on the ocean!

[Wandrin*]

This is awesome to read. I hope you have many more days like that one.

[shera]

This is awesome to read. I hope you have many more days like that one.

Ty, me too.

[Ottime]

I don't know these breaks, but I get a sense from what you write. Ultimately, I try to stay out of crowds. I prefer to surf a lower quality wave by myself or with just a few friends or even strangers than sit in a crowd. Usually, when surfing with 2-5 strangers, the vibe is mellow and can even be supportive. Once the crowd builds to 12 or so, it is pretty anonymous and people can and will use that as an opportunity to be selfish. Kind of like how being in cars makes people act like assholes. That is not just a Cali thing, but I think it is a city/urban/high density living thing.

Anyway. Avoid T until you improve a bit and can fight your way into the pack. Or don't even go back. I can usually get my fair share of waves at the Slot (Steamers). An the wave quality tends to be high. But I rarely go there because it is just not that much fun always having my game face on. I rather paddle out with a buddy at a break alone and just enjoy out time in the water. And I don't mind surfing all alone. Until I start thinking about the landlord. Then I wish I had at least someone out there.

Stoked you found the happy place.

And as you saw, not all crowds suck. The Shores sounds like how 2nd Peak often is. No one taking life too seriously an the better folks tend to give away waves. When I'm at 2nd Peak I pretty much go for everything but I try not to drop in on anyone and except for the best wave of my session, I'm always telling folks down the line to go. Great way to me people by letting them drop in on you. And man, if I were single, so many nice ladies out there. I keep trying to drag my single buds out there so they can meet a nice surfer girl. BTW, surfing does wonders for the lady physique. Just an observation. But I'm not stalking either.

[CabbieMcJones]

I felt the brunt of the "me first" mentality at Doheny (northern most point with seemingly most beginners) two weeks ago but it definitely wasn't aggressive. I worried more about getting in someone else's way to the point that I felt like a buoy constantly letting them go as a group of 3 guys all took turns calling them out for each other with no regards to anyone else. I

Very similar to you, the road-rage/wave-rage correlation was starting to irk me. I found that switching breaks (to Manhattan Beach) resulted in being around better surfers and more of a "I'm off...you go" attitude (after I apologized in advance if I ever get in their way). Makes all the difference in the world. I moved out to California less than a year ago and it's immeasurably reassuring to find exactly the vibe I'd hoped to find.

[shera]

Ok I'll keep those numbers in mind, 2-5 people. There are times I can surf the north end of Turmo with that number because it's a smaller wave and everybody likes the other side better. But you are really saying I should go to Sunset Cliffs. It is deserted for the most part. Often not much waves either.

I know Steamers Lane exactly, I've watched surfers there and it is cool how you can look down on them. It is a very pretty wave. You have so much more of reef/point breaks up your way overall, there are long stretches of sand/beach break here. Haha, I'm thinking your grass is greener right now. It's not sunny here either, many days.

This Saturday there is a free lesson out at La Jolla and I'm gonna check that out. Maybe I can make some local friends and learn something too. Have another day of silly fun in knee high waves.

Cabbie I'm glad you got it figured out. Haha I know the buoy feeling, and sometimes it's my own fault. I will just watch all these swells go by and think whoah I should have paddled for that one. I call it analysis paralysis. There was a guy yesterday that paddled for EVERY SINGLE SWELL. He would pop up, ride about 10 feet, hop off, and do it again. I was think that is such a good way to improve popups. Maybe I can sack up for a day like that.

[shera]

Btw, Ott, I am perfectly happy doing things solo, to a certain degree. But I am also human. What is it about the landlord? Don't you have a life insurance policy?

[Piggity]

Sounds fun! PB in general is a mix of old school, new school, tourists and drunken transplants. Add them together and that makes tourmaline. I still think you should try pipes area. 15th st. in DM might also be fun for you.

[bodywhomper]

i was at lj shores on wednesday afternoon with my family; just north of the checkered flag. it seemed like what i'd consider a typical crowded, casual, small-swell summertime feel out in the water. it seemed like the typical summer. i'd suggest continuing to go to shores and to mix up the locations, shores, scripps, tourmaline, DM 15th st and 10th st (i have several friends cut their teeth at 10th st). i have no idea what the vibe is like at any of those beaches these days. perhaps the issues at tourmaline are more related to the folks in the water during morning sessions.... if i remember right, the general vibe in the waters at these breaks changes quite a bit in late september and october because the college kids (including many newbies) are back in droves.

anybody want to share which lj beaches have good whomping right now, e.g. windansea or marine st? i'm in SD in the midst of a large family vacation and biz conference (multiple conflicting obligations) - i'm sick, too, mild fever and all. i'd love to breakaway for a quick whomp session, if i can figure it all out - maybe showing the older boy where i used to live and what whomping's all about (he played in waves for the first time on wednesday). i'd be a shame to not whomp at least a little bit while i'm down here. tia.

the fam and i plan to meet an old friend at the shores on sat morning-ish before heading northward for home.

cheers

[shera]

perhaps the issues at tourmaline are more related to the folks in the water during morning sessions....

This occurred to me as well. The early morning crowd is probably in a rush to get to work. I was thinking of changing my arrival time to maybe 9am.

[Ottime]

So. Due to sending my phone for a swim while on travels I missed the whole single versus tri fin debate. I'll weigh in here. I think bs720 has it right.

1. There is a huge advantage to riding many types if boards. And I feel learning on a 9' single is a good idea. As you progress to losoer boards you will already know how to really turn properly.

2. Learning on the single fin is like learning to ski on a proper ski. Sure it is hard to ski a 69 waist ski in waist deep powder, but if you can do that, the Donner Party is sooooo easy to ski because you actually know how to ski/carve. If you learn on the rocker ships, you may never learn to put your ski on edge and end up with the style of a spastic arms flailing speedster.

3. Single fins just have more soul.

4. Thrusters have more thrust off a turn. The fins collect and release energy when flexed. They do not offer extra speed when paddling or in trim, by being a tri fin. At that point it has to do with the area on the leading edge of the fins and their foil shape. Or drag.

5. If the fin is not glassed in, moving it forward loosens the board and moving it back makes it more stable. Fin boxes lack soul. Glassed in fins have more soul.

6. To turn a big heavy long single fin, get you back foot right on top of the fin, bend the knee, drop your weight, look in the direction you want to turn and lead with your front shoulder and arm. Easy steezy.

IMHO, single fins are great for learning on and a great board to keep in the quiver. Your board looked sweet to me and something I would looked forward to riding if it were in my quiver. My Rick is a 30 pound, 9'3", big square glassed in single fin with a huuuuge tail concave. It fucking drips soul.

Anyway.

When angling in be careful to not angle all that much. Too easy to end up paddling down the wave and not into it. I like the suggestion of paddling into the waves from the outside and sliding gently into them. But remember to point down hill. Just like with skis, stay in the fall line.

One negative of single fins is they can slip out when dropping into steep waves with a lot of angle. The side fins in the thruster help in gripping the face. Twinzers are even better. I bet Nick Lamb was riding one of those at the big Puerto day this season. His dad loves them for big surf.

Okay. Gotta take the boy to the beach.

[Tye 1on]

this thread fkn rocks...just sayin'

[CabbieMcJones]

this thread fkn rocks...just sayin'

+1. I read daily hoping for updates on SheRa's progress or Ott's wisdom.

[Ottime]

I don't know about wisdom, but I do babble a bunch and think I know how to have fun. This guy does too.

[Ottime]

This guy I mean.

[shera]

Ott, thanks for weighing in! I feel so vindicated in my choice on the longboard. The fin is not glassed in, but it's set pretty far back and I'm leaving it there. Still spastic though.

Aw your boy is so cute, yes they know how to have fun.

[Piggity]

Little guy is chillin! Love it. Babblin's cool but I tend to ramble, wish I could pull off the 1 liners every post like some of the chosen few

Yesterday was different. It was fun. Surfing is supposed to be fun, right?

After reading this again, I didn't realize you weren't having as much fun in the lineups before. I would have offered more help had I known, just thought you had your routine down and were enjoying it. My fault, just realized it after reading that post.

[shera]

After reading this again, I didn't realize you weren't having as much fun in the lineups before. I would have offered more help had I known, just thought you had your routine down and were enjoying it. My fault, just realized it after reading that post.

I think I'm over the hump now. I can paddle for a long time, try for a lot of waves. And I met a bunch of people yesterday that are as bad as me.

[shera]

I put a post on the main forum, a roll call for San Diego maggots http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/s...-Diego-maggots!

I don't know if you people ever hang out in real life the way we do in CO but I sure would hate to leave San Diego at the end of the summer and never meet a single maggot here. Please post up over there and consider getting together as a group for some beers, just one time.

How many maggots live in San Diego anyway? jtan, pig, who else?

[jtran10]

I'd be down to get a drink/group surf/whatever sometime

to my knowledge it's you, me, pig and liv2ski..maybe more that don't post in the surf forum?

[Piggity]

Hottate, Bird Rock, and possibly more? and powerwhore has no obligations so he's down I can't do anything this week though, have to be next week sometime

[Ottime]

Ah. Sounds like fun.

[BS720]

Hey, I'm in till Wednesday am. Lemme know.

[Ottime]

Arn't ya like technically a SF Maggot? Not sure if your actually invited bro. If I were you I'd crash the thing.