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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    5

    Screwed up Duke mount, ideas?

    Hi all,

    First post, yeah. Been a regular reader for a while, usually found info through searching. Not so much this time.

    I bought a pair of Bent Chetlers online and got them drilled so I could move my Dukes over from a pair of worn out skis. Got the skis, drilling looked fine. Mounted the bindings last night. One small catch: The walk mode can not be engaged on one of the skis. The reason is that I didn't tighten the two centre screws (arrow 2) all the way, to check that everything was lined up nicely and walk/ski mode switch was pain free. Inserting the screws is done in walk mode, switching to ski mode was a breeze.

    When I tried to go back to walk mode to tighten the screws, it turned out that the edge of the sliding part of the toe assembly (arrow 1) catches on the head of the screws so it is impossible to slide the binding back to disengage the heel and go to walk mode. As the binding has to go to walk mode for me to get access to the screws, it is a catch 22.

    Have anyone faced something like this with the Marker Duke/Baron(/Possibly also Tour?) and found a fix?

    The only solution I can think of is removing the pivot pin, so the frame with heel and toepiece can slide off without moving the sliding bit at the front. This looks like an irreversible process, and I will not do it without some solid advice on how not to make a mess. Google just says take it to a shop, but being stupidly stubborn I'd like to fix my own screwups. Any well informed advice will be greatly appreciated...

    Picture is obviously from the second ski, where I had learned from my mistake:


    Edit: Topic typo. Sorry.
    Last edited by j0ffen; 02-21-2013 at 12:24 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Livermore, CA
    Posts
    191
    Use an offset Philips driver. Either to drive screw further or remove.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    5
    Quote Originally Posted by tsproul View Post
    Use an offset Philips driver. Either to drive screw further or remove.
    There's no room for any screwdriver. I have to somehow remove the frame without going via walk mode...

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    sfbay
    Posts
    2,110
    Yes, remove the pivot pin. Its been a while, but last I checked it has a retaining clip and goes on and off no problem. Unless they changed the design then this will do the trick.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Livermore, CA
    Posts
    191
    Can you get a flathead between the parts at the screw and bend the plastic a bit as you try to switch modes?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    5
    Quote Originally Posted by jondrums View Post
    Yes, remove the pivot pin. Its been a while, but last I checked it has a retaining clip and goes on and off no problem. Unless they changed the design then this will do the trick.

    Looked for a clip, can't find any. (2011/12 model binding) This is the right side, tried to give it a couple blows but no success. Almost looks like it's been expanded like a rivet? The left end of the pin is wider, this has to be the one to hit but I'm afraid to do irreversible damage. After all, the binding is skiable but not tourable, which is far better than useless.

    Quote Originally Posted by tsproul View Post
    Can you get a flathead between the parts at the screw and bend the plastic a bit as you try to switch modes?
    I can't find any room to get in there. Tested on the working binding, not even a tiny crack, everything is nice and tight.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Idaho
    Posts
    8,063
    Quote Originally Posted by j0ffen View Post
    After all, the binding is skiable but not tourable, which is far better than useless.
    It's not skiable if the screws are not tight. My Dukes are in my GF's car so I can't confirm but I think Marker did away with the removeable pin. If it were me, I would dremel one side of the pin catch off and punch it out. You can still get replacement pins and c-clamps made for the old style and replace it with those. I don't see any other way of doing it. Chalk it up as a lesson.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    29,717
    Don't tour on them?

    Seems to work fine for must users of Dukes?
    Quote Originally Posted by Downbound Train View Post
    And there will come a day when our ancestors look back...........

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    5
    Quote Originally Posted by Conundrum View Post
    It's not skiable if the screws are not tight. My Dukes are in my GF's car so I can't confirm but I think Marker did away with the removeable pin. If it were me, I would dremel one side of the pin catch off and punch it out. You can still get replacement pins and c-clamps made for the old style and replace it with those. I don't see any other way of doing it. Chalk it up as a lesson.
    Which probably means the boards will be back on the hill quicker if I take them to a shop and get it right the first time. Both my wallet and inner DIYer pride will take a beating, but I certainly learned a lesson: Don't be thorough when checking that everything lines up, just put it all together in a hurry. [/bitter]

    Thanks for the help everyone.

    For anyone searching for something similar: tighten the screws when mounting Marker Duke bindings. Check that the holes are ok before mounting, then do front and rear screws on the toe plate first. Tighten these first, keeping an eye on the holes for the two middle screws, the do the last two.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Kootenays
    Posts
    1,342
    Quote Originally Posted by jondrums View Post
    Yes, remove the pivot pin. Its been a while, but last I checked it has a retaining clip and goes on and off no problem. Unless they changed the design then this will do the trick.
    They did. Mild destruction now required to remove, not sure how you could replace it.

    I would remove the single screw by the lever, and gently py/lift up while trying to switch modes. You want to get some tension so the base plate lifts up.

    You could also cut the ski away from the binding and remount...

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Simi Valley, CA
    Posts
    5,079
    You could try a feeler gauge set from Sears, & separate two gauges from the pack. They're pre-bent, so slide two under the toe from the front with the bends up. If they reach in far enough, they might act as little ramps to get the toe over the screws when you try to change to tour mode.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Whistler
    Posts
    1,748
    I've had a pair come into my shop with this same problem. I removed the 5th screw and placed a wedge between the ski and bindings right under the 2 screws that were catching on the housing/sliding mechanism. The wedge/upward pressure seated the screws into their countersunk holes, allowing the binding to slide over the screw heads.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Slummit County Colorado/Minnesnowta
    Posts
    344
    I would'nt remove the screws if I were you, bentchetlers already have a weak core and I have heard plenty of horror stories of people ripping bindings out of them. I would take Dee Hubbs advice.

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  14. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Missoula, MT
    Posts
    19,935
    I wouldn't see why you can't get a pozi in there and twist back and forth a little and tighten that shit. It sounds like they weren't tightened down all the way to begin with.
    No longer stuck.

    Quote Originally Posted by stuckathuntermtn View Post
    Just an uneducated guess.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Simi Valley, CA
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    5,079
    Quote Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs View Post
    I've had a pair come into my shop with this same problem. I removed the 5th screw and placed a wedge between the ski and bindings right under the 2 screws that were catching on the housing/sliding mechanism. The wedge/upward pressure seated the screws into their countersunk holes, allowing the binding to slide over the screw heads.
    Sounds like a great plan, I'd go this route.

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    SLC
    Posts
    448
    This similar solution worked for me as well.

    In my case I was able to use flathead screw driver heads as the wedges and forced them in from the sides, so the blade was almost up against screws from either side of the binder.

    P
    If that doesn't make sense...pm me and ill call directly.

    Good luck.

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  17. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    State of Jefferson
    Posts
    267
    Quote Originally Posted by 1000-oaks View Post
    Sounds like a great plan, I'd go this route.
    Vote number 3 for the wedge. I did the same thing on some Barons and broke the tour lever wailing on it. Don't do that.

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