Belt drive. Why not?

**plugboots** · 02-10-2013, 06:37 PM

I'm buying a new 29er SS and the guy building it suggested a belt drive. I missed the boat on that, but after some research, it seems like the way to go.
http://www.carbondrivesystems.com/index.php?lang=us
Quiet, light, no stretch, no fucking lube.

**concretejungle** · 02-10-2013, 06:51 PM

They aren't quiet.

**mntlion** · 02-10-2013, 06:57 PM

can be quiet, depends on your local conditions. If it makes noise a small squirt from your water bottle and that usually stops it.

parts last longer, but harder to find parts

if you dont like, you can just buy chain, single ring, and chain rings (same hub, cranks) and go that way too.

my wife is trying it this year. See how it goes

**plugboots** · 02-10-2013, 07:49 PM

Originally Posted by concretejungle

They aren't quiet.

But not noisier than a chain, correct? I'm also thinking about what little SS chain slap there would be on downhills and jumps.

**iscariot** · 02-10-2013, 08:08 PM

I know literally hundreds of people who have gone clinically deaf from the high dB noise of a bike chain. Hundreds! Oh the hudge manatee!

**plugboots** · 02-10-2013, 10:12 PM

What?

I can't hear you.

**Stealthb4** · 02-11-2013, 08:51 AM

I would recommend it! Just finish my 2nd belt drive build. You will love it. Just make sure you choose the right gearing as swapping gears can get expensive.

**Name Redacted** · 02-11-2013, 09:02 AM

I can hear my chain over my White Industies Eno. But I am intrigued by the other benefits. Go for it.

**knumbskull** · 02-11-2013, 10:26 PM

Don't you need a belt drive specific frame so you can install the belt?

**iscariot** · 02-11-2013, 10:47 PM

Originally Posted by knumbskull

Don't you need a belt drive specific frame so you can install the belt?

Yes. You need a frame with a break point designed into the rear triangle. If you have a regular frame (ie. One not designed for belts) then you'd have to cut a space in the rear triangle yourself, in install some sort of removeable lug system to hold the rear frame together while you ride. PITA if you ask me. As are belts.

**garuda** · 02-11-2013, 11:07 PM

Not to dissuade you but to your question:
- frame geometry -- sounds like this is a custom frame, assuming 29er. if you want really short chainstays then a belt isn't a great option. The clearance required at the interface of the chainring/pulley and the chainstay means you can't have a reasonable size tire (2.3x29) and short stays (15.x-16.x inches). If you don't care about short stays, no problem.
- have to run high tension -- even with centertrack you still need higher tension for a belt than for a chain. Does this contribute to premature hub/bottom bracket wear? Maybe. It may make a tiny difference in pedaling efficiency as well (looser chain = faster/easier spin).
- no fix except a new belt -- if you manage to cut the belt out in the middle of nowhere you are walking unless you brought a spare. Unlikely though.

The belt system is very light. I have the old system on my cross bike and look forward to a centertrack upgrade. I skip the belt even with pretty high tension on hard accelerations. But centertrack fixes this I have heard. It is a cool system and much better now than before.

**skiing-in-jackson** · 02-12-2013, 12:41 AM

Originally Posted by Stealthb4

... Just make sure you choose the right gearing as swapping gears can get expensive.

Silly question? Say I ride 32 x 20 w/ a chain, will it feel the same w/ belt drive?

**Stealthb4** · 02-12-2013, 08:53 AM

Yes, they have gearing that is similar. I have a 46x24 but many ride with a 46x28 which I think is closer to a 32x20.

**plugboots** · 02-12-2013, 01:16 PM

you can't have a reasonable size tire (2.3x29) and short stays (15.x-16.x inches)

I will run a stan's raven or crow, so not a worry for my terrain. The Chainstay issue is a good point. Most of the frames I've researched, Spot Honey Badger for example, have +/-17.5 chainstays.
Some people carry a spare belt with them. Anyway, my last 3 derailleur blowouts, I just ran the uphills and coasted the downs to get home, instead of dicking around on the trail. I'd do the same if I blew a belt.

**Yeah!** · 02-12-2013, 09:53 PM

Originally Posted by plugboots

But not noisier than a chain, correct? I'm also thinking about what little SS chain slap there would be on downhills and jumps.

Since when is chain noise an issue on SS bikes?

**plugboots** · 02-13-2013, 10:04 AM

It's not an issue.

**plugboots** · 02-13-2013, 02:02 PM

Similar to the bike I'm thinking about:

Just swap Stan's wheels and tires, a Fox fork, stem etc. choices.

**Krash** · 02-16-2013, 06:47 PM

I've been riding custom SS with a belt for 3 seasons now. They are very quiet, most of the times... And a quick rinse with water typically fixes it. I do believe the high tension can wear the freehub and BB quicker. There is more drag than a chain, but not really felt while pedaling. I love the instant response when you do hammer on the pedals. The new center track system is MUCH BETTER in every way. I don't see myself changing back to a chain for the SS any time soon.

**plugboots** · 08-31-2013, 05:04 PM

Just put it together this morning and rode it. Like everything about it so far.

**zion zig zag** · 08-31-2013, 05:09 PM

Looks fun. What is the gearing equivalent to?

**climberevan** · 08-31-2013, 07:01 PM

I've ridden my Spot for many many miles with the belt. It's the 1st generation, so no center guide. It can be a bit fiddly to get the alignment and tension just right, but once set it's great. Mine is nearly silent in dry western conditions.

They pretty much don't wear out, but they do cause BB and freehub wear due to the higher tension. I also had to use a bolt-on hub to keep the thing from shifting around, but that could just be because I like to jump off of things on my 29er.

I would choose it again without hesitation for another SS build. When Rohloffs finally get lighter and cheaper, the belt will make for a maintenance free drivetrain!

**frorider** · 08-31-2013, 10:58 PM

I've been tracking the development for several yrs, have friends who have them, have ridden a few...but still no plans to buy one. The hub/BB bearing wear issue has been mentioned. But my main issue is that a failure leaves you stranded with a long walk home. Companies selling you a belt drive bike neglect to mention that carrying a spare belt is difficult since you can't store them coiled up at all..need to keep them as a big loop to avoid stress zones. So some guys have rigged up large plastic boxes attached to their camelbacks for long rides, but that's kinda janky.

I suppose if most of my riding consisted of riding ten times around a 3 mile loop, I'd consider it.

**frorider** · 08-31-2013, 11:08 PM

I realize that another approach some people take is to just change the belt every year, which reduces the chance of failure. But getting the tension dialled on a new belt, coupled with the hub/bb maintenance, seems to sorta defeat the 'low maintenance' idea.

IMO. :shrug: