Page 1 of 4 1 2 3 4 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 77
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Bottom feeding
    Posts
    4,443

    Belt drive. Why not?

    I'm buying a new 29er SS and the guy building it suggested a belt drive. I missed the boat on that, but after some research, it seems like the way to go.
    http://www.carbondrivesystems.com/index.php?lang=us
    Quiet, light, no stretch, no fucking lube.
    Well maybe I'm the faggot America
    I'm not a part of a redneck agenda

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Agrestic
    Posts
    4,240
    They aren't quiet.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Banff
    Posts
    18,637
    can be quiet, depends on your local conditions. If it makes noise a small squirt from your water bottle and that usually stops it.

    parts last longer, but harder to find parts

    if you dont like, you can just buy chain, single ring, and chain rings (same hub, cranks) and go that way too.

    my wife is trying it this year. See how it goes

    Email me at dave@fatskideals.com for boot fitting questions,
    read where I'm skiing at http://www.fatskideals.com/blog.html

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Bottom feeding
    Posts
    4,443
    Quote Originally Posted by concretejungle View Post
    They aren't quiet.
    But not noisier than a chain, correct? I'm also thinking about what little SS chain slap there would be on downhills and jumps.
    Well maybe I'm the faggot America
    I'm not a part of a redneck agenda

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Bravo Delta.
    Posts
    6,169
    I know literally hundreds of people who have gone clinically deaf from the high dB noise of a bike chain. Hundreds! Oh the hudge manatee!
    Quote Originally Posted by Socialist View Post
    They have socalized healthcare up in canada. The whole country is 100% full of pot smoking pro-athlete alcoholics.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Bottom feeding
    Posts
    4,443
    What?

    I can't hear you.
    Well maybe I'm the faggot America
    I'm not a part of a redneck agenda

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    G-Spot, CO
    Posts
    500
    I would recommend it! Just finish my 2nd belt drive build. You will love it. Just make sure you choose the right gearing as swapping gears can get expensive.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    the junkshow
    Posts
    5,575
    I can hear my chain over my White Industies Eno. But I am intrigued by the other benefits. Go for it.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Glenwood Springs
    Posts
    823
    Don't you need a belt drive specific frame so you can install the belt?

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Bravo Delta.
    Posts
    6,169
    Quote Originally Posted by knumbskull View Post
    Don't you need a belt drive specific frame so you can install the belt?
    Yes. You need a frame with a break point designed into the rear triangle. If you have a regular frame (ie. One not designed for belts) then you'd have to cut a space in the rear triangle yourself, in install some sort of removeable lug system to hold the rear frame together while you ride. PITA if you ask me. As are belts.
    Quote Originally Posted by Socialist View Post
    They have socalized healthcare up in canada. The whole country is 100% full of pot smoking pro-athlete alcoholics.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Front Range, CO
    Posts
    524
    Not to dissuade you but to your question:
    - frame geometry -- sounds like this is a custom frame, assuming 29er. if you want really short chainstays then a belt isn't a great option. The clearance required at the interface of the chainring/pulley and the chainstay means you can't have a reasonable size tire (2.3x29) and short stays (15.x-16.x inches). If you don't care about short stays, no problem.
    - have to run high tension -- even with centertrack you still need higher tension for a belt than for a chain. Does this contribute to premature hub/bottom bracket wear? Maybe. It may make a tiny difference in pedaling efficiency as well (looser chain = faster/easier spin).
    - no fix except a new belt -- if you manage to cut the belt out in the middle of nowhere you are walking unless you brought a spare. Unlikely though.

    The belt system is very light. I have the old system on my cross bike and look forward to a centertrack upgrade. I skip the belt even with pretty high tension on hard accelerations. But centertrack fixes this I have heard. It is a cool system and much better now than before.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Jackson Hole
    Posts
    2,312
    Quote Originally Posted by Stealthb4 View Post
    ... Just make sure you choose the right gearing as swapping gears can get expensive.
    Silly question? Say I ride 32 x 20 w/ a chain, will it feel the same w/ belt drive?

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    G-Spot, CO
    Posts
    500
    Yes, they have gearing that is similar. I have a 46x24 but many ride with a 46x28 which I think is closer to a 32x20.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Bottom feeding
    Posts
    4,443
    you can't have a reasonable size tire (2.3x29) and short stays (15.x-16.x inches)
    I will run a stan's raven or crow, so not a worry for my terrain. The Chainstay issue is a good point. Most of the frames I've researched, Spot Honey Badger for example, have +/-17.5 chainstays.
    Some people carry a spare belt with them. Anyway, my last 3 derailleur blowouts, I just ran the uphills and coasted the downs to get home, instead of dicking around on the trail. I'd do the same if I blew a belt.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    264
    Quote Originally Posted by plugboots View Post
    But not noisier than a chain, correct? I'm also thinking about what little SS chain slap there would be on downhills and jumps.
    Since when is chain noise an issue on SS bikes?

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Bottom feeding
    Posts
    4,443
    It's not an issue.
    Well maybe I'm the faggot America
    I'm not a part of a redneck agenda

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Bottom feeding
    Posts
    4,443
    Similar to the bike I'm thinking about:

    Just swap Stan's wheels and tires, a Fox fork, stem etc. choices.

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Frisco
    Posts
    301
    I've been riding custom SS with a belt for 3 seasons now. They are very quiet, most of the times... And a quick rinse with water typically fixes it. I do believe the high tension can wear the freehub and BB quicker. There is more drag than a chain, but not really felt while pedaling. I love the instant response when you do hammer on the pedals. The new center track system is MUCH BETTER in every way. I don't see myself changing back to a chain for the SS any time soon.
    "Right after you finish pointing it and you get up about 30 miles an hour and your skis plane out on top and you start to accelerate and you know you can start turning in powder. Thats the moment." - R.I.P. Shane

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Bottom feeding
    Posts
    4,443
    Just put it together this morning and rode it. Like everything about it so far.
    Well maybe I'm the faggot America
    I'm not a part of a redneck agenda

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Ogden
    Posts
    4,646
    Looks fun. What is the gearing equivalent to?

  21. #21
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Tahoe-ish
    Posts
    554
    I've ridden my Spot for many many miles with the belt. It's the 1st generation, so no center guide. It can be a bit fiddly to get the alignment and tension just right, but once set it's great. Mine is nearly silent in dry western conditions.

    They pretty much don't wear out, but they do cause BB and freehub wear due to the higher tension. I also had to use a bolt-on hub to keep the thing from shifting around, but that could just be because I like to jump off of things on my 29er.

    I would choose it again without hesitation for another SS build. When Rohloffs finally get lighter and cheaper, the belt will make for a maintenance free drivetrain!
    ride bikes, climb, ski, travel, cook, work to fund former, repeat.

  22. #22
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Access to Granlibakken
    Posts
    5,387
    I've been tracking the development for several yrs, have friends who have them, have ridden a few...but still no plans to buy one. The hub/BB bearing wear issue has been mentioned. But my main issue is that a failure leaves you stranded with a long walk home. Companies selling you a belt drive bike neglect to mention that carrying a spare belt is difficult since you can't store them coiled up at all..need to keep them as a big loop to avoid stress zones. So some guys have rigged up large plastic boxes attached to their camelbacks for long rides, but that's kinda janky.

    I suppose if most of my riding consisted of riding ten times around a 3 mile loop, I'd consider it.

  23. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Access to Granlibakken
    Posts
    5,387
    I realize that another approach some people take is to just change the belt every year, which reduces the chance of failure. But getting the tension dialled on a new belt, coupled with the hub/bb maintenance, seems to sorta defeat the 'low maintenance' idea.

    IMO. :shrug:

  24. #24
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Verdi NV
    Posts
    6,985
    Fill me in, this is a fixed speed set up correct? No variable clutch or anything to provide varying Gear ratio's?
    Own your fail. ~Jer~

  25. #25
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Granite, UT
    Posts
    622
    Speaking of belt drive... am I the only one who thinks this is the worst idea ever?

    http://forums.mtbr.com/29er-bikes/ni...ve-869863.html

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •