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  1. #26
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
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    RM trench
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    1,975
    well FWIW I just emailed GD & they said the new Turbo LP cable routing is clean. Designed so the mechanism faces backwards but the cable can be looped back to the top tube tight enough that the loop sticks out less than the mechanism on the Classic.

  2. #27
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    bestcoast
    Posts
    1,566
    my reign came with a Joplin, and while it's been away to warranty once, and general isn't the best, it's a lot better than a non-remote adjustable post, way better. Mine's only a 4" drop too and it's fine for the most part, if I'm dropping into something I know is steep and gnar I'll just drop the post a bit in the frame. It definitely has side to side play going on, but to be honest when you're riding you really don't notice it that much. Anyway, I'll probably upgrade to a reverb, but the lower end stuff is still usually better than not having one at all, imo.

  3. #28
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    livin the dream
    Posts
    3,686
    I've put 700miles on a gd turbo. No issues....

    sent from the future using my mind powers
    Best Skier on the Mountain
    Self-Certified
    1992 - 2012
    Squaw Valley, USA

  4. #29
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    RM trench
    Posts
    1,975
    couple rides on the GD & I likey. Ended up with the 1" down & 4" down. Easy to find the 1" down position, & 4" down is enough for the riding I do. Cable is facing forward & is unobtrusive.

    Only problem is I now need to get used to pedaling with my seat up at the right height, its a bit harder on the calves & a bit easier on the quads.

  5. #30
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Cuntecticut
    Posts
    1,582
    Easy fix for cable and housing getting fucked up on the GD Turbo models - get a v-brake noodle, cut/file the nubbin end, bend to suit your needs. Done.



    Hell, one of my local shops gave the thing to me. Works well, keeps the post end from getting bent out of whack, so you don't have to mess with new cable/housing, or keep bending the housing into shape when it gets fucked up and messes with the post actuation.



    This GD post is around 7 years old, maybe even 8. The inner post broke about four years back. The old style. They sent me a new one, and a second new one for my other GD post that hadn't broken. The knob housing popped off the post once as well. Careful application of some JB-Weld took care of that.

    Hmmmmm. Swapped on the alu top cap a few years ago when it was available, and have changed the slider/bushing things maybe three times over the years. That's it.

    I've got two Reverbs on other bikes, and the above GD Turbo, as well as a nearly as old GD Descender on another bike. Love, love, love the Reverbs, but...they do take more upkeep than the GD. For pure ease of upkeep, purely great functionality, easy parts availability, dependability, decent weight and pricing, GD Turbo has everyone beat. Just my opinion, obviously.
    Florence Nightingale's Stormtrooper

  6. #31
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    RM trench
    Posts
    1,975
    the cable is really flexy on the new GD's, no need for v brake bits. I could have pulled the cable even tighter but I left a bit of room for adjusting the height via the regular QR.


  7. #32
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Squaw valley
    Posts
    2,833
    I had two gd's, all mountain and dh bikes.

    then I got an enduro with the command post. I love it.



    Sent from my SCH-I500 using TGR Forums

  8. #33
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Missoula, MT
    Posts
    20,634
    Bump
    Anyone running a HiLo? Any long term reports on the Lev? Any other good options in the 30.9 4-5" variety?
    No longer stuck.

    Quote Originally Posted by stuckathuntermtn View Post
    Just an uneducated guess.

  9. #34
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    The bottom of LCC
    Posts
    5,267
    Hilo SL here. Can't give a long term yet but so far love it.

  10. #35
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Truckee
    Posts
    1,037

  11. #36
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    4,622
    Quote Originally Posted by markcjr View Post
    Why would you want a giant lever and have to press it 5 times to drop your post an inch? That is idiotic.
    Last edited by Dromond; 05-27-2013 at 12:05 AM.

  12. #37
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    in the trench
    Posts
    10,168
    ya 5mm seems a little small for each click. but I think you can pull in more on the lever and it moves an infinite amount. seat clamp is atleast 2 bolt and the lever clamp looks sano. lever might be a bit big. don't think I want to guinea pig it. just ordered a gd . my 09 frame is 30.0

  13. #38
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    RM trench
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dromond View Post
    Why would you want a giant lever and have to press it 5 times to drop your post an inch? That is idiotic.
    1/2 inch / ~10mm drop per click sounds better on paper, but they say it can go down all the way if you pull the lever all the way in. Always good to see different options out there though, hopefully it works well in the real world.

  14. #39
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Vancouver, BC
    Posts
    3,386
    Can anyone tell if the post retracts as you pull the lever, or does it still rely on sitting on it to drop?

  15. #40
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    North Vancouver
    Posts
    6,227
    Quote Originally Posted by D(C) View Post
    Can anyone tell if the post retracts as you pull the lever, or does it still rely on sitting on it to drop?
    You need to sit on it to activate the drop.

    With a flick of the lever it activates the mechanism for the 5mm drop, or you can just pull it in and drop to any height (well any height in 5mm increments).

    I have some friends involved with this, I've not played with one yet.

  16. #41
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    4,622
    99% of the time, when I push the lever on my Reverb I drop it the whole way. Occasionally I drop in just and inch or two. Dropping the saddle 5 or 10mm seems so miniscule. Perhaps it makes sense for winding, rolling old-school eastern style trails where you really need to be pedaling the whole time but need just a little bit of extra clearance for technical sections.

    I've got the 125mm Reverb but would go 150mm if I had the option just for extra clearance on super steep sections. It all depends on where and how you ride I suppose.

  17. #42
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    North Vancouver
    Posts
    6,227
    Quote Originally Posted by Dromond View Post
    It all depends on where and how you ride I suppose.
    This does factor in. The guys that designed this ride eastern chunky singletrack on the Niagara Escarpment. Lots of ruff rocky flat sections where dropping 5-10mm makes sense instead of being at your full climbing position.


    This little video shows what they intended.

  18. #43
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    4,622
    The graphic reminds me of the trails I grew up riding!

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  19. #44
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    North Vancouver/Whistler
    Posts
    11,605
    Quote Originally Posted by shirk View Post
    This does factor in. The guys that designed this ride eastern chunky singletrack on the Niagara Escarpment. Lots of ruff rocky flat sections where dropping 5-10mm makes sense instead of being at your full climbing position.


    This little video shows what they intended.
    I think this post makes sense for a lot of trails that people ride. If you need your posts slammed all the time then perhaps another post might be the trick

  20. #45
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    North Vancouver
    Posts
    6,227
    Quote Originally Posted by LeeLau View Post
    I think this post makes sense for a lot of trails that people ride. If you need your posts slammed all the time then perhaps another post might be the trick
    Well this still slams all the way down also...

    This post does spur me to find a way to try a similar lever for my GD, I kinda hate the regular GD switch/lever thing.

  21. #46
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Cuntecticut
    Posts
    1,582
    Quote Originally Posted by shirk View Post
    Well this still slams all the way down also...

    This post does spur me to find a way to try a similar lever for my GD, I kinda hate the regular GD switch/lever thing.

    Same - there are some threads/pics out there of some converted KS remote levers, though you have to come up with a way to clamp the cable end there. Obviously not insurmountable.

    I'm wanting to do that for my hardtail GD post, but the price of that stupid little lever just to swap in is sorta' ridiculous.

    I can see the utility of the 5mm increments with a half pull, or all the way down/somewhere in between with a full pull.

    I'm rarely all the way slammed with my Reverb - usually it's between 3-4" down.
    Florence Nightingale's Stormtrooper

  22. #47
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    slc
    Posts
    11,528
    Update: Zero issues with my Contact Switch after a full season of heavy use.

  23. #48
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    No of SoBo, So of NoBo
    Posts
    2,276
    I've had my KS eTen for a couple of months now, and have also had zero issues (though it's not a huge sample set, maybe 10 rides). For $125 brand new, I'm satisfied for sure.
    Outlive the bastards - Ed Abbey

  24. #49
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Hell Track
    Posts
    9,220
    Since this is bumped, Specialized Command Post review:
    http://blistergearreview.com/gear-re...post-blacklite

  25. #50
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Granite, UT
    Posts
    780
    I've put about 1K miles on the lever actuated eTen this season. No problems at all.

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