New Dynafit Freeride Binding - Beast 16

[Spyderjon]

Thanks Spyderjon. Any mags got a say on how narrow a ski you could match the 135 brake B16 to? Lotus 138 is the big ski and with quiver killers thinking of options to pair for this binding.

I've use the 120mm'ers on 88mm Brahma's & I've QK'd the 135's across 130mm Redeemers & 99mm Bros for a customer without a problem.

[dacksdescents]

http://store.mountaineer.com/Dynafit...astbinding.htm CHEAP!

[mfa81]

$599 at bentgate, over the phone orders or in store only

[1000-oaks]

Though I read the Beast is retailing for $750 next season?

[Judo Chop!]

$850 for the B16.
$750 is for the new Beast 14, which I assume is what most people are waiting for due to the lighter weight.

[LeeLau]

Here goes http://www.doglotion.com/dynafit-bea...ouring-binding

[peds]

Here goes http://www.doglotion.com/dynafit-bea...ouring-binding

"If you’re coming from traditional tech systems then you’ll find nits to pick. As I said, the production Dynafit Beast is not for quick transitions. Indeed various improvements seem to have made quick transitions harder. If you’re coming from frame bindings then you’ll think you’ve died and gone to heaven."

Absolutely. Coming from the original Dukes, I'm chuffed to bits with them, and most of the issues I've read about do seem to be niggling things coming from tech binding aficionados finding slight differences in the setup they're used to. I didn't even realise they were problems.

I'm kind of getting used to the dark grey heel riser being a bit stiff to disengage, you've just got to know how much pressure to apply.


That said, there are two skis in this picture...



I was making what would be the last kick turn of the day, on very hard, windpacked snow without crampons, when the ski just came off. I really don't think I applied more pressure than would be normal, and the toe lever was down and locked (of that I am certain). I'm just glad it happened on mellow, sunny, touring-with-the-dog terrain and not up some rocky monstrosity - better to learn the lesson of leashes sooner rather than later, anyway. I'll always tour with leashes from now on.

[Judo Chop!]

Can anyone confirm that if I add beast heel spurs to my Vulcans that I can also still use them in alpine bindings like, say... Marker Lords?

Yo, I can't confirm a thing, but I've been using mine on Beasts, Salomons and Markers with no issues so far.

Any update since you've been on it a while longer? still all good? or is putting weird torque on the heelspur screws?
I just picked up some beasts on killer sale for one ski but I'd still like to use my Vulcans on another ski, mounted with Marker Lords (which works great right now w/ vulcans).

Also, does anyone have the screw length/head specs for bindingfreedom inserts with beast? I searched here and their site. no luck.

[Spyderjon]

QK/BF insert screw spec for the Beast 16 is:

4no. 10mm countersunk flat heads for the tour/ski lever brackets
8no. 16mm countersunk flat heads for the toes
8no. 12mm countersunk flat heads for the heels

Notes:
Insert screw head diameters need to be reduced to 8mm as Dynafit's countersunk recesses are smaller than industry standard.
Insert screws that have a no.3 pozi head are too tall for the heel binding so either no. 2 pozi or allen or torx heads must be used.

[Judo Chop!]

Cool. Thanks!

How does one reduce the head diameter? By grinding down the top flat until the taper makes it meet 8mm?
Or somehow grind the perimeter of the head? I'm thinking maybe to mount the screw in a power drill so it spins (ie.ghetto lathe), then taking it to a grinding stone. Sounds like a long process for that many screws.

Edit.. Aren't smallhead screws already just reduced diameter countersunk flathead? Will these work? Thanks.

[Spyderjon]

.....How does one reduce the head diameter?......

Put two 5mm locking nuts on the threaded portion & spin up the assembly in a drill up against a bench grinder to reduce the outside diameter of the head. The grinding part is really quick but putting on/removing the locking nuts on 20no. screws plus a few spares is a pain.

.....Aren't smallhead screws already just reduced diameter countersunk flathead? Will these work? Thanks.

We don't have smallhead screws is the UK/Yurp so couldn't say.

[Graham]

http://store.mountaineer.com/Dynafit...astbinding.htm CHEAP!

I had to bite the bullet today...too cheap to pass up. Stoked for a tech setup with elastic travel and less ramp angle!

[peds]

Hello team,

A little bit worried about one of my toes - the grey plastic piece that you press down with the front of your boot to engage the teeth stays down every now and then, and you have to hook a finger or a pole tip or something underneath to lift it up so you can engage your toes again.

Just to illustrate, here is a picture of the prototype from earlier in thread, but the grey plastic piece in the centre is still the same. That's the thing staying down.



I'll see if I can encourage the problem to show (without being too enthusiastic) on my table later today and take a few pictures to send to Dynafit, I'll keep you posted.

Anyone else experienced anything similar?

[Toby]

Maybe this is in the thread, but vaguely considering Beasts now and I would put them on skis that had FKS. Anyone know if I'll be good for no-interference of holes, preferably at the same mount point?

[mfa81]

Maybe this is in the thread, but vaguely considering Beasts now and I would put them on skis that had FKS. Anyone know if I'll be good for no-interference of holes, preferably at the same mount point?

take a look here, I know there is a fks template, not sure there is on for the beast though

http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/s...d.php?t=153971

[Ivan Oder]

Maybe this is in the thread, but vaguely considering Beasts now and I would put them on skis that had FKS. Anyone know if I'll be good for no-interference of holes, preferably at the same mount point?

I think you will probably be okay if you can tolerate moving the center point a cm forward or back.
Check out this post where I mounted a pair of Radicals and FKS on the same ski on inserts. AFAIK, the Beast has wider mounting points for fatter skis. It'll be the front holes you'll have to work around. Why not keep the FKS and do an insert mount and have both? (I might end up doing this myself on a new pair of DPS.)

Edit: I remember seeing a hole pattern analysis from this wildsnow review. The Beast pattern looks significantly different than the Radical so it's hard to say without a template on template analysis.

Edit 2: I found a Beast Template! Let the fun begin!

[Toby]

Thanks guys. Answer: about as good as it gets for no-interference. I have inserts, too. I'll think about it.

[the_flying_v]

Hello team,

A little bit worried about one of my toes - the grey plastic piece that you press down with the front of your boot to engage the teeth stays down every now and then, and you have to hook a finger or a pole tip or something underneath to lift it up so you can engage your toes again.

Just to illustrate, here is a picture of the prototype from earlier in thread, but the grey plastic piece in the centre is still the same. That's the thing staying down.



I'll see if I can encourage the problem to show (without being too enthusiastic) on my table later today and take a few pictures to send to Dynafit, I'll keep you posted.

Anyone else experienced anything similar?

I have this happen pretty often.

Haven't found this a to be that big of a problem; just a simple flick of the wrist during transitions.

No real safety concerns and not really a huge problem for me.

[Ivan Oder]

Does the no flat touring option annoy you on long flat approaches? That IMHO is the biggest flaw with this binding that makes it less universal.
Could it be mitigated with a plate under the toe? (eg: http://www.bndskigear.com ?

[garuda]

No you can't shim the toe, it would fvck up the binding. It's not designed for long flat tours, hence the no flat position. It could be annoying depending on what you're talking about. Going to Alaska by float plane and skiing up and down long flat glacial valleys? Probably annoying. Skiing for a few miles to get to the vert, not a huge deal. You need a boot with good ROM for walking, like the vulcan. The vulcan is not as powerful as an overlap alpine shell with a similar flex rating, but it skis pretty well overall.

[auvgeek]

No you can't shim the toe, it would fvck up the binding.

Why? 234

[the_flying_v]

Why? 234

Getting back into ski mode wouldn't work. Your toe would be above the heel.

[auvgeek]

But the Beast has 8 mm heel/toe delta. Are you saying that shimming enough to get a flat touring mode would raise the toe above the heel, or are you saying shimming the toe at all (<8mm) wouldn't work? If the former, I get it. If the latter, would you mind explaining?

[Spyderjon]

The Beast has 6mm of delta. I've got 4mm shims under my Beast toes to give 2mm delta as that's what I prefer/balance best with my Mercurys set on the more upright cuff position. I've only done a couple of flat walks of no more than a couple of miles each but I had no issues with not having a flat walk mode.

[garuda]

Getting back into ski mode wouldn't work. Your toe would be above the heel.

Well I guess it's possible but the heel pins are a different design than regular tech. They have a flat profile and dynafit engineered the binding ramp for the pins to work optimally with the add-on beast boot heal. If you want to disregard that engineering and change an already nearly flat ramp angle, go for it.