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Thread: Converting to single speed?
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08-21-2012, 08:52 AM #1User
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Converting to single speed?
I have a surly Karate Monkey that is currently 1x9 that I'd like to convert to single speed just to give it a try. It has the horizontal track dropouts in the back. It should be fairly simple, right? Is it just a matter of picking up a rear wheel and shortening the chain? Where is a good source for the wheel and parts I would need?
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08-21-2012, 09:13 AM #2
You're welcome to borrow a rear wheel from me so you can try before you buy. It's a 29" frame, right? Let me know.
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08-21-2012, 09:30 AM #3
Why get a new rear wheel? Just take the cassette off the one you have, add some spacers and a cog, done.
Waste your time, read my crap, at:
One Gear, Two Planks
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08-21-2012, 09:40 AM #4
Just get this http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product...0052_175492_-1
With the horizontal dropouts you won't even need the tensioner, but $20 is still good for 3 cogs and the spacers.
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08-21-2012, 09:57 AM #5
I've got a KM converted to a SS. Do what Tyrone said. It also helps if you use a bolt on through axle and some chain tensioners.
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08-21-2012, 09:58 AM #6
And when I say chain tensioners I mean Surly tugnutts.
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08-21-2012, 10:16 AM #7User
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08-21-2012, 10:32 AM #8Hucked to flat once
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Nice of your LBS. Just to put this up for others...you can use a cog from a cassette and some pvc pipe for spacers. Not a great long term fix but just to check out single speed, it works.
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08-21-2012, 10:40 AM #9
Prepare to feel like a kid. SS = way fun.
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08-21-2012, 11:54 AM #10Registered User
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"Coasting is a pernicious habit" -- quoted for truth. And though the OP seems all set for this conversion, if anyone else is interested here's the source, and a good resource for conversions in general: http://sheldonbrown.com/fixed-conversion.html
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08-21-2012, 03:42 PM #11
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08-21-2012, 04:51 PM #12
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08-21-2012, 06:29 PM #13in the zone of excess
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Good times, good times.
About a million pages of KM builds on MTBR, but I've found an "easy" gear like 34x22 to work well for me at elevation and let me ride more stuff at pretty limited downside for non-racing riding. Pulling it out of an old exploded cassette (especially for a higher tooth count) is fine for giving it a go.
FYI, especially if it's just to see if you like it, you don't need the tuggnuts (and you really only need one, and the cheap non surly ones are fine). If your wheel is QR and you brake hard enough you'll like slip the axle out of alignment regardless of tuggery. Not really a big deal, but long term you want a bolt hub for track ends.
[edit-that's assuming you're running a rear disc]Last edited by DAFTC; 08-21-2012 at 06:31 PM. Reason: Wheel dorkery
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08-23-2012, 03:32 PM #14User
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Just saw the 34:22 post above and started to do more research. The intranets originally led me to believe that everyone was running straight 2:1, so I ordered a 17 tooth cog to go with my 34 chain-ring, but talking to a few people, I cancelled that and went with a 20 tooth. Is that still going to be too hard in the hills around here?
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08-23-2012, 04:05 PM #15
I run mine with a 32-20 and can climb most stuff around here.
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08-23-2012, 04:09 PM #16
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08-23-2012, 04:18 PM #17
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08-23-2012, 04:21 PM #18Registered User
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We should cross-link this thread with slavin's "getting back to race shape" thread. When I raced road, in the offseason I'd ride SS on the theory that it forced me to use my muscles in different ways which was better conditioning. My kid now rides fixed on his road bike (cuz he thinks he's a hipster) and he says it has made him a much better rider overall. Don't know if any of this is true as I was 18 anda punk when I road-raced, but it sure felt like it helped me improve my conditioning. In addition to just being fun, reducing distractions, and making me feel all hipster-ish.
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09-05-2012, 12:28 PM #19User
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I got it mostly set up, still no tuggnut as I can't get the chain just the right length to fit it, but the wheel hasn't moved in the dropouts yet. I did my first longish ride today with a long, steepish climb in it and made it pretty well. It worked me but totally do-able, I was running 34-20 and think that is pretty good for now. Stoked.
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09-05-2012, 08:12 PM #20
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09-06-2012, 07:40 AM #21Not a skibum
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Indeed welcome to the club (although I did just buy a FS29er), for some you may start obsessing about gears more than when you rode a geared bike. Also while I cringe at the cost of an XTR/XX cassette, I have no problem dropping $30-50 on a single steel SS cog and/or chainring (oh and you may *need* many of those).
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09-06-2012, 08:01 AM #22Registered User
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I'm riding 33:20 on my 1x1 (26") for reference. Get a Tugnut. I think of it as an insurance policy. Do you want to be out on a long ride, cranking up a hill, when your axle slips in the drop out and bends your axle or screws up your drop out? Plus it opens beers.
2:1 is great for most applications but if your are doing long, sustained, steep climbs, it can get pretty hard and might damage your knees.
Also, spend the cash on a White Industries Eno if you haven't already. It's worth the money for the sound alone.
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11-04-2012, 12:15 PM #23User
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Well, I've been riding nothing but SS for the past two months and loving it. I bought a Highball carbon frame from the Santa Cruz parking lot sale the other day with the intent to build up a crazy light SS. It's turning out to be a challenge to build up, research has led me to believe that I need a Philcentric BB to tension the chain but finding one, or someone to install it has been a challenge. Anyone have any experience or advice on that?
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11-04-2012, 01:26 PM #24
its the normal sized BB? (not a BB30/90/91/etc?) If it is oversized BEER parts makes an adapter thingy
if so your options are a white industries ENO hub that works really well. or a chain tensioner... Not sure how well the phils work, but I bet well...
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11-04-2012, 01:47 PM #25User
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Yeah, normal size BB. Santa Cruz doesn't recommend the ENO hub due to the amount that it has to be tightened against the carbon. I'm fine with trying the philcentric if I could find someone to sell me one and install it. I have an email in to Phil Wood with no response.
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